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Hello all. Equipment: idatalink Maestro rr2/ w compatible vehicle harness Kenwood Excelon dmx809s Incriminator audio IX6.4 @ -3db Incriminator audio ix2.1 @ -10db DS18 pro zt6; x4 Sundown SA V2; x2 XSPower D3400 Wiring is entirely Knukonceptz OFC, 0 gauge power run/ground, big three w/ the addition of alt casing ground, 14 gauge wiring runs to door speakers, Krystal Kable RCAs Vehicle: 2021 VW Passat w/fender system (bypassed amp) As title states, I am getting a slightly tolerable white noise in my newish sound system. I say slightly tolerable because I cannot hear the hiss unless there is no music playing or my vehicle is at a standstill. The white noise persists whether the car is running/on, RCA unplugged from amp, gains turned to lowest settings on amplifier (makes no difference), running a temp ground from amp directly to the battery, disconnecting the speaker wires, swapping remote turn on leads, using muting plugs on all channels, and finally running temporary speaker wire to ensure the ones I ran weren’t picking up interference. I have tested a brand new Skar Audio SKv2 100.4AB, the hiss was still present but quieter I have no clue as to why. My next move is possibly putting the amp in a vehicle to see if the noise is present still. If I have missed anything, please so share. I'm not sure if I’m just expecting too much from electronics that make SOME noise, but I’d at least expect the amount of noise a proper stock system makes which is next to nothing IF any. Are aftermarket sound systems just inherent to slight hiss/noise or am I being too much of a perfectionist with this? Thanks!

Looks like on the box in the link above the 2.5" wide triangles account for 26.17 Cu. In. per corner for a 16.75" internal height. The one in the center of the ports is double that, so 52.34. Does the 52.34 take away from "Port Volume"? Thank you...that would be much appreciated. I will be running a Rockford T10001BDCP and with the speakers being the Rockford P3D4 12's, I plan on sending a 1 ohm load to the amp. Is it ok to run speaker wire from one sub to the other through the port along the back...or is better to put two speaker terminals in? My max build width is 45"...height and depth really don't matter. Thanks again...looking forward to what you come up with. I am excited to get started. The subs are arriving today and I will try to sneak off work early enough to get a sheet of 3/4 MDF today or tomorrow. I will be posting pics along the way!

Thanks in advance!!

Hi, I own a PPI Pro 10 subwoofer with blown voice coils. I've been on the hunt to get it rebuilt. Does anyone know where I can find one or anyone I can send it to? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Try changing the unit from network mode to standard mode, or vice versa. Also make sure the green parking brake wire is connected. From what I can recall this can cause issues after a factory reset of the radio and it not giving you access to all menus/settings if it is disconnected.

I’m trying to design a box for these wolffram 12” dual 2 ohm woofers.. running 2 ohm load, they are 750 rms each.. I believe they have a 2.5 coil I can’t find the t/s specs on them.. I used an app and am wondering if @Joe X can help me again.. want the box 32 to 35 hz if possible … if the box below needs too be redesigned going in a 300 max space is 16h 38w 40d here is what I came up with if this would be fine and not cause any issues.. please lmk

Hello all, I recently installed a 2024 DMH1500-NEX head unit in my father'inlaws vehicle. Used the iDatalink modual and all the harnesses so there was no need to cut and splice wires together. The unit was working great, had sound and all the functions was working. When I started the vhicle this morning, the EQ icon was greyed out and would not work. So i did a restore system on the screen. Once it rebooted, everything is working but there is NO audio. Please can someone help?

It could be bad RCA terminals (either end) or the amp itself, very possible if you installed the amp in the sub box. You need also to check your power lines and your turn on signal as well. And also the sub to amp lines at both ends, it could be even the sub. Test everything and see what you find.

1) Yes you have to account for the displacement of 45s but in most cases this displacement is very low. 2) If you add damping to the interior of a ported box it results in a reduction of output around tuning, it also can reduce port noise in a misdesigned enclosure, it is beneficial for flatness but it will reduce output and therefore usually is not used. I will look into the modeling of the P3s however it would be necessary for me to know what amp are you using.

My sub pop when I play my music

Thanks for the quick response. I have room, do you have a enclosure design for two P3"s that will accomplish what you said? I like this setup...but this is not a lot of internal volume, it might be enough...I don't know. https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/169035-need-an-enclosure-design-for-2-fosgate-t1-12s-please/ I do have a couple of questions about this as well: 1. If you add the 2.5" angles in the corners, would you not have to increase the internal volume to compensate for the space they take up? 2. On a ported box is it recommended or beneficial to line the interior with a layer of poly?

The best way to get flat response is what you did, run an array of high diameter subs in sealed if you don't mind the larger box. To me two standard 12s in a large vehicle cabin is insufficient but if you have to work with them then the box is the way to get them going lower by tuning low with proper port area and going with the maximum allowable internal volume. Once the box has the ability to play low you can use a DSP to try to even things out if needed, and hopefully you will like the outcome.

Hello Wizards, I wanted to pick some brains (whichever are willing) and get an opinion on what I plan on doing to tell me if this is the correct way to go about it. Gear Old Sundown Zv3 magnet, New Sundown Zv4 Basket and soft parts (DVC 1ohm, plan on running at .5ohm), CAB 1600.1 (run @ .5ohm), and a 6th Order Bandpass I have designed and plan on building. 6th Order Design: 3/4" Plywood, Double Baffle Sub Wall Magnet Side: 3cbft, 30Hz, 1 Aeroport 4.5" diameter x 12.51" length Flared both sides Cone Side: 1.5cbft, 50Hz, 1 Aeroport 4.5" diameter x 8.09" length Flared both sides I am using WINisd to play around with box and port sizes and I really like the transfer function this design is providing. I have measured the size of my woofer accurately but have used the baseline testing of a Zv4 12" as the Woofer data into WINisd (should I not do this?). Of course this doesn't account for port displacement, woofer displacement, and bracing but I will optimize the box shape and size to make sure I end up with the cbft stated above on each side of the sub woofer. Do the Aeroport sizes/design sound stupid? Does the cbft Ratio sound weird? Does the HZ Ratio sound stupid? Should I trust WINisd? Is there anything I should keep in mind or watch out for? All comments are welcome, thank you for the knowledge.

I have been out of the sub box building game for awhile and just picked up two P3's that I want in a ported box that will get low. It's going in the back of a ford expedition, so size and shape really don't matter much. My last box I built about 10 years go for a 10" Alpine Type R. I followed Alpine's guidelines for the ported box and while it sounds good, the really low notes fall off and you can't/feel them. It could be the speaker, the tuning of the box or a combination. I don't want that to happen this go around. Back in high school I had 4 Punch 15's in sealed box with 2.5 per and that thing would play any note you sent to it...would love for these two new 12's to play anything you throw at them. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Depends on what 18 and the maximum dimensions of the trunk. (h,w,d) 89

Can one 18 inch sub fit into the trunk of a 2012 Mercedes c250

Thanks appreciate you.

You can use a 1500W RMS amp no worries, just no clipping, subsonic set to 28Hz, careful with bass boost and other tone controls after setting gains.

Ok, thanks so much. How much power do you recommend putting to them?

So here is a suggestion, power: to sub(s) rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 3 1/2", figure is just an assembly guide: NOTE: If building outside you need to build a cardboard dummy box to test fit before building the real box. NOTE: Box can still be used with better subs for a future upgrade.

OP post the model for the speakers and also the model of the amp. Maybe you will need two amps but let's see.

What kind of speakers? where are you going to put them?

I found this… hoping @Joe X can help me… looks like I’m the book they recommend 40hz tuning lower probably isn’t a thing xtrpro102.pdf