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Hello Wizards, I wanted to pick some brains (whichever are willing) and get an opinion on what I plan on doing to tell me if this is the correct way to go about it. Gear Old Sundown Zv3 magnet, New Sundown Zv4 Basket and soft parts (DVC 1ohm, plan on running at .5ohm), CAB 1600.1 (run @ .5ohm), and a 6th Order Bandpass I have designed and plan on building. 6th Order Design: 3/4" Plywood, Double Baffle Sub Wall Magnet Side: 3cbft, 30Hz, 1 Aeroport 4.5" diameter x 12.51" length Flared both sides Cone Side: 1.5cbft, 50Hz, 1 Aeroport 4.5" diameter x 8.09" length Flared both sides I am using WINisd to play around with box and port sizes and I really like the transfer function this design is providing. I have measured the size of my woofer accurately but have used the baseline testing of a Zv4 12" as the Woofer data into WINisd (should I not do this?). Of course this doesn't account for port displacement, woofer displacement, and bracing but I will optimize the box shape and size to make sure I end up with the cbft stated above on each side of the sub woofer. Do the Aeroport sizes/design sound stupid? Does the cbft Ratio sound weird? Does the HZ Ratio sound stupid? Should I trust WINisd? Is there anything I should keep in mind or watch out for? All comments are welcome, thank you for the knowledge.

I have been out of the sub box building game for awhile and just picked up two P3's that I want in a ported box that will get low. It's going in the back of a ford expedition, so size and shape really don't matter much. My last box I built about 10 years go for a 10" Alpine Type R. I followed Alpine's guidelines for the ported box and while it sounds good, the really low notes fall off and you can't/feel them. It could be the speaker, the tuning of the box or a combination. I don't want that to happen this go around. Back in high school I had 4 Punch 15's in sealed box with 2.5 per and that thing would play any note you sent to it...would love for these two new 12's to play anything you throw at them. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Depends on what 18 and the maximum dimensions of the trunk. (h,w,d) 89

Can one 18 inch sub fit into the trunk of a 2012 Mercedes c250

Thanks appreciate you.

You can use a 1500W RMS amp no worries, just no clipping, subsonic set to 28Hz, careful with bass boost and other tone controls after setting gains.

Ok, thanks so much. How much power do you recommend putting to them?

So here is a suggestion, power: to sub(s) rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 3 1/2", figure is just an assembly guide: NOTE: If building outside you need to build a cardboard dummy box to test fit before building the real box. NOTE: Box can still be used with better subs for a future upgrade.

OP post the model for the speakers and also the model of the amp. Maybe you will need two amps but let's see.

What kind of speakers? where are you going to put them?

I found this… hoping @Joe X can help me… looks like I’m the book they recommend 40hz tuning lower probably isn’t a thing xtrpro102.pdf

Features: Diameter: 12" Max Power Handling: 5000 Watts Nominal Power Handling: 2500 Watts RMS Power Handling: 1250 Watts Fs (Hz): 32.3/30.5 Qts: 0.59/0.56 (.67L) Vas (cu ft): 1.256/1.198 (.36 cu m) Sensitivity: 84.4dB/83.7dB Mounting Hole Dia.: 11" Mounting Depth: 6.5" Polypropylene dust cap and paper cone is moisture and UV resistant Symmetrical tuned long-throw surround Dual interlaced conex spider Custom cast aluminum frame Tinsel leads stitched and looped across spider Venting in voice coil former is part of the enhanced voice coil cooling system Advanced forced convection cooling system Tri-cooling system Copper wound voice coil on aluminum former

I need help with a sub box. For 2 Orion XTR PROs Dual 4 Ohm woofers. I can’t find much oh them when it comes too t/s parameters.. box will be going in a chrysler 300 max box space area is around 40 w 43 d x 20 high max gonna run them at 1500 to 2000 watts so a box that can run lows say 32 to 33 hz plz help subs back port back..

I have Four 75 RMS 225 peak w speakers and 2 100rms 300 peak w, how do I connect to one amp or should I use two amps ?

Some lithium chemistry's cant be ran with agm or lead acid batteries. The D4S LTO 6.0 can be though, I have a few different people using them with mixed setups using XS Power D3400s as starting batteries and the LTO in the back by the amps with no problems, no isolators, and no other converters like people are rambling about. Now if it was a chemistry that cant be ran with agms, then you would need some sort of isolator, but then its still stupid because you just delete the front battery and run everything off the lithium and be done with it. Which is why you see people build dumb wooden boxes the size of a battery and call it a battery delete, all you really need though is just a distribution hub under the hood to connect the factory 12v electronics too. Simple buss bars do that just fine.

Hey guys, hope all is well. Ill get right into it. I did a small upgrade in the car and added a set of Jl Audio c1s 6.5 with a crappy headunit replacement because it was as far as my budget could go. No amplifiers. the head unit is https://www.elektramobileaudio.com/mhu-32bt-head-unit/. This is where its gets tricky, so my brother had a pair of the jl C2's 6.5 and he loaned me the crossovers as he wasn't using it. I then replaced the crappy crossovers that came with the c1 and am currently using the c1 speakers with the c2 crossovers. The problem with the headunit is that it has no crossover setting, nor hpf/lpf setting, it basically just has an EQ. A couple questions 1. Does the c1 midbass speaker have a natural roll off for the highpass that i don't need a highpass filter. If so, what's the average roll off and at what order for yall with the experience. 2. Given i cant set crossover with the head unit, should i simply EQ out the lower end or will the speaker naturally roll off. Thanks in advance

I will keep you in the loops thanks alot bro i appreciate it. I will be more than happy to give u a donation for the help when the time comes

I would definitely look into seat lift kits to fit a box of proper size for those subs, make that enclosure with 3/4" birch wood, dual layer for the baffle, proper bracing inside, specs are 4 cubic feet net 64 square inches of port area tuned to 32Hz, I believe the sub cutouts need to be 7.34". Depending on how much space you find to work with I could fine tune that spec to increase output and low end extension as possible.

So here is a suggestion, power: to subs rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 3 3/4", figure is just an assembly guide:

You dont have a clue what i have stud FYI. The amp im currently using (cus the last one i had went snap crackle pop) dynos over 5400rms @1 ohm on 14.3 volts. Thats not my issue tho. Issue is how to put 5000 watts underneath a back seat if its even possible. Which it sounds like it isnt.

@Joe X Awsome thanks joe will maybe think about building my own then. I have removed a seat already to fit my 5.5 cube box. Were having another child and need the seat room thats why i wanted an enclosure underneath. For conversation sake. If this was your truck. And you could only work with the space underneath your seat. And wanted the biggest bang and lowest frequency possible with an enclosure like that. What might you suggest?

Looking for some guidance on enclosure design. Would like to start with a Sub up Port back template. Two Savard Rap 12" 2 Ohm 750 RMS. Planning on wiring in series and parallel back to 2 ohm Amp is a Stinger Audio MT20001 that will supposedly push 1500 watts at 2ohm Vehicle is a 1998 Jeep Cherokee XJ open cabin cargo area with ample dimensions for an enclosure. Thinking I will maintain a squared enclosure with the sides extended to angle the woofers toward the front slightly. I got rough numbers from Savard: Net Volume 2.25 Cuft each sub ported at 35 Hz Port area 20.25 inches square 16" port length They offered a basic design with no position for the port or the subs. L - 39.5 H - 15 D - 20 vent size: L - 18.6 H - 13.5 W - 3.5 Seems like a decent enough starting point but the options seem to be, one large box with one port, one large box with two ports, one box with two separate cavities with two ports. My thought is to put a single port in the center so both drivers have the same variables like airflow and distance to the port etc. Seems like having a port on one end leaves one driver farther from the port while one has the back spacing encroached upon. I don't know really. I may be overthinking the whole thing, but I really don't want to just build a box, cut some holes and hope for the best. Advice welcome.

Hey guys, I'm new to the group and I come barring questions!!!.. important questions tho lol I have a 2019 Ford Edge with stock radio using a D4S EZ SNI35-2V 2ch. loc converter and I just installed: -Excessive Amperage 400a alternator (charges around 14.7- 15ish at idle) I'm going to wire a little volt meter in to monitor it) -Big 3 installed -1/0 wiring -2 runs of 1/0 gauge w/ double anl fuse holders/600a anl fuse back to the amp (sundown salt-6) -ROCK LIGHTS (for both outside/inside of car) (Not installed yet) Resting volts for batteries: -AGM/12.64 -Liths./13.13(all 3 individually read same) - XS Power D4800 (2,000-3,000w) AGM battery under the hood -3 D4S LTO-6.0 12V Lithium batteries (w/buss bars) (6,000-10,000w) in the back (NOT installed yet) But ive been reading around online and I'm seeing both yay and nay with running both AGM and lithium. I'm seeing stuff about resting volts for both, isolators (and when to use them/car on&off) run a set of wire straight off alt. to the lithiums and then I've alsol read not to run those wires. I seen something about wiring the batteries in parallel (w/isolator (&also) w/o isolator) or wire in series, use a DC-DC converter vs isolator... So my question is, what do I do here and how do I do it lol. I know lithiums charge faster and hold a higher rest volt so I don't want to do a straight run from the alt. Or do I get isolator/DC-DC converter and wire it to the power wire going back or wire straight to the battery? Can that combination of batteries and setup even be safely possible? Or do I completely do away with them and get a different type of battery? Thanks for your suggestions and helps!