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  1. Today
  2. Doing a battery delete. Disconnected. I removed the rear bank. All 4 of my group 31's read 13v and 96% charged. Took about 4 hours to charge to full. Need the front battery to be good until I get my LTO buss bars. We'll see what happens. I'm aware. Thank you tho.
  3. Not good idea to mix lithium and AGM. different operating voltages and charge methods and currents.
  4. I would disconnect your front battery from all wires, test voltage and if it persists at 12.2 then charge overnight and leave it on charge with a trickle charge or something. I use my xs power charger for mine but I’m pretty sure any will do if it’s in spec
  5. Are the recorded voltages with front/rear batts connected or disconnected from eachother
  6. Everything wired with 2/0ga... Silver tinned certified basshead with a singer 320 alternator. I unhooked the rear bank and I'm charging my front battery. Not like it really matters I have two hundred amp hour of lithium now so... AGM is coming out!!
  7. check wiring is thick enough awg to handle the current and balance the batteries good. maybe charge up the battery manually with a battery charger seperately on its own to see if it keeps a charge and then put it back and see if it starts draining again or stays the same theres something weird going on there for sure
  8. I have four group 31 AGM's in the rear ( coming out for LTO) and they're all showing 96% charged but my front AGM (group 65) is resting at 12.2 and showing 55% charged. WTF? You guys think my rear Bank is slowly killing the front battery? Bosch AGM. Pep boys brand. Everything coming out for LTO anyway.
  9. I have the first version on the SMD 18 i am trying to find out how many watts rms the subs are finally ready to put them to use and i need to start shopping around for an amp can anyone help out
  10. Does anyone kno bout the k9s Rockville 12s and was thinking of running 3 12s on a crescendo bc 3.5k amp would it be too much for subs

    1. realflow100


      the rockville k9 subs have some issues with handling rated power. and they start smelling on only half rated RMS power. could still be inadequate glue or the coils just aren't beefy enough to handle their rated power.

      i dont think the coil sizes they make are even remotely capable of handling their rated power.

  11. It looks like you are looking at the "Transfer function magnitude" graph. That graph is useful for comparing the same sub in different enclosures, but not so good for comparing different subs in the same enclosure. For what you want to do you want to look at the "SPL" graph. For better accuracy, make sure you enter in the same "Driver input voltage" for both subs in the Signal tab in WinISD (both subs have to be the same ohms for this to work properly). Entering in the same voltage is better than putting in the same watts (System input power) in WinISD due to the way it calculates input power based on Re of each sub.
  12. https://ibb.co/Q62Rxcf the top line is the fi X, the bottom is SSD. Same box. I should definately go with the X right?
  13. Nice. Thanks man! I may hafta keep Saturday open, like to check this out. Will you be there, or is it more of a small local thing?
  14. what battery setup would yall recomend for 1 17k or 2 5ksplx which would be a better setup?
  15. Yesterday
  16. Looking for some recommendations for 6.5 components. Im thinking either the Skar SPX 65c or the Inifinity 60 CSX. Im planning on building up my system in steps first would be a jbl 4505 into passives. Then a second jbl 4505 bridged into passives. Then active with an Alpine pxe 08505 into the jbl's. 6.5 components in the front and in the rear and 2 shollow 12's in the trunk.
  17. I clamped 5500 watts out of it rising to 1.3 ohm at 14v. That was driver window down at 28hz. I'm planning on taking measurements of SPL, impedance, clamped power, and voltage throughout its whole playable range sometime soon. Stay tuned for graphs.
  18. wire all of your positive wire runs from your battery under the hood. fuck going straight from the alternator unless u are a into termlab.
  19. I have a type r 12 sitting around that I received cheap. I was told these are 4th order friendly and had kicked around the idea of building one since I am sitting on the sub. I saw plans recently for a sealed side of 09 (cu. ft) and ported side of 1.0 (cu.ft.) with a 4 inch port tuned to 50hz. Also a little nervous that a 4 inch port might not be enough port area. I have about 500 watts rms to give to it. I was wondering what the general performance of that plan would be? The last 4th order I had was similar ported and sealed sections but the tuning was higher like 60hz. The plans were made with a 1 to 1 ratio and higher tuning to get bandwidth from 70 down to 30 if I remember correctly.
  20. I haven’t done experiments with this myself, but my understanding is that since the overall tuning is the same, the velocity through the ports should be the same as well. There is one situation where I have heard of people using multiple ports of different lengths. For home audio I’ve heard people using a series of ports with slightly different lengths because the frequency at which you get pipe resonance issues will be slightly different for each of the ports even though the Helmholtz resonant frequency is the same for all the ports. The result is instead of getting a big spike in output at the pipe resonant frequency of a single port (generally consider to be a bad thing) you get smaller spikes in output at multiple frequencies. None of that really applies to car audio though.
  21. Ok so I figured they would probably cancel each other out, lose output n generally sound real messy... so would there be any change in sound quality? I'm sure one port would have more velocity than the other, correct?
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