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  2. It's not parallel series. Positive to positive and negative to negative is just parallel. You need to make sure the cables going from the front to the rear are fused within 18 inches of each battery. If they arent, you need to add them.
  3. So I just bought a truck the previous owner had stereo installed. The battery was relocated to the rear with a second battery. Truck has two alternators. Both alternators feed to a single power junction block. From that single block 1 wire feeds to the starter, one smaller one to the trucks main fuse block and two 1/0 run all the way to the back, one to each battery. The batteries are wired in parallel series. I don’t see any fuses anywhere. I’m hoping that this big of a job they were smart enough to fuse the lines and the fuses are under the box the batteries are on. All of the amps are properly fused. All in all the set up looks ok. It just seems to me that there should be some fuses closer to the alternators incase something happens? What do y’all think or recommend. Thanks.
  4. Today
  5. Usually ported boxes have higher output than sealed unless you are starving the subs with net volume or too little port for the power they are seeing. I'd say ditch the prefab and make your own tailored to your subs and tuning preference
  6. You could load up either sub into a box program like WinISD to look at differences in performance with T/S params
  7. Man it was late when I was doin my math or something! Had something in my cart I didn't see but I can afford to get 4/0 welding wire , how does that compare to car audio wire? Size wise I mean? I only need just shy of 30' and with 4/0 I don't think I'd need a second run for my setup , only the 8k and a will probably get one or two of the taramps 440x4s , may not be the best amp but I HAVE to have matching amps or it'll drive me crazy. Think I read 600a at 600v for the 4/0, and my longest run from front battery back is just over 10'
  8. Oh I soldered all my ends when I first got it and here in upper Michigan it made one winter and I had to redo EVERY end with a new end and I crimped and heat shrinked em and they have been fine since. Soldering them is a real PITA also, hard to get everything up to temp to take solder , damn strands would basically melt if u tried to heat all at once , had to heat the terminals, fill it with solder and while solder was liquid plunge the wire into the lug full of solder . NEVER AGAIN lol.
  9. I understand. I bought some cca wire when I was using the 6 channel PPI amp for my subs. I didn’t realize when I bought it was was getting cca. It worked ok but did start to get corrosion on the ends. I swapped it out once I saw that.
  10. Yeah it's what I had funds for when needed wire lol. Yeah welding wire runs a bit smaller but like bmwking said it is ofc and designed for high draw. I can afford one run now and when taxes come in I have half a dozen Installs lined up so I'll have sum more okay money for my truck.
  11. Sorry I'm so late to reply. No honestly, using WinIsd Pro, PR boxes are really easy to calculate. Basically you just go with the factory suggested cubes, and put the parameters for the PR into WinIsd and it will tell you how much to weight your PR for any given tuning. Basically this is just a regular ported box, but the PR acts as your port. After using this setup for a few weeks now, I can't see myself ever using a standard ported box again. This is just the cleanest, most musical sub setup I've ever had.... And using a big ol' mid level 18" ! WTF ? I still can't believe it. SO worth the 1 1/2 db loss for the amazing SQ. I never felt that way about sealed boxes. I'm still not a sealed box guy.
  12. Sorry. Didn’t realize you had CCA. I personally don’t like it, but some people do.
  13. I am running this system in attached pics with a Skar RP-3500.1d monoblock amp, Mechman alternator and a XS D3400 battery in 2015 Dodge Ram 1500 Quadcab. I currently have the box sitting on its back with the subs firing up towards the roof over the front seats. It sounds good, but I think it should be louder and rattling the walls and it isn't. Would a sealed box make it any better?
  14. correct. welding 2/0 tends to be about the size of typical good car audio 1/0. also welding cable is, by design, OFC
  15. Isn't the 2/0 welding cable about the same size as sky High & knukonceptz 1/0¿
  16. I got oversized 1/0 cca or I'd stick with that but it's inefficient. I can afford the 8k and a single run of 2/0 welding wire which is good for 450a and amp pulls slightly less than that max musical amp pull. That'll get me by till I can get a second run of 2/0. All my old 1/0 will go in my buddies truck since it's same vehicle. So not wasting anything , hate tossing good stuff out.
  17. Personally I would do a dual run of 0 gauge over a single run of 00. Especially since it sounds like you already have a single run. A dual run of 0 will allow more current flow than a single 00, and be cheaper. Just my .02
  18. Vs threads are not allowed on this forum, as stated in the forum rules you agreed to when creating your account. If you would like a side-by-side comparison of those woofers, I suggest taking a peak at their T/S specs, and learning what those specs mean and how they determine performance.
  19. Looks like a big ole chunk of red jolly ranchers
  20. I thought cold cranking amps would be more important for spikes of power output ? As far as storing of energy goes, I will basically never be playing the stereo with the truck off... Plus I do plan to be getting a much stronger 300+ amp alternator. Honestly, my current system probably won't even have peaks that high, but I'm really doing the electrical stronger than needed for future proofing.
  21. That's sort of how I had it before but there was still a ground path bypassing the clamp but It is still fairly early so I will check back and update how its doing but so.far so good it's not dropping crazy low like it was Before with headlights off and music up it would sometimes sit around 12 or 11.8 ridiculously low alt basically off lol
  22. Hell yea haha deff gonna be a hog lol yea mine seems to run just fine with the dual battery just make sure when you do it that all the grounds run through one point so that the current cant bypass the factory clamp that's what causes it to charge low because it's not sensing the current the amp is drawing As long as you do this the truck should ajust the charge output like it's supposed to I thought about upgrading my alt soon to one of the big mech man alts I checked with them already and even they dont have a way to bypass the voltage regulator setup but as long as it can properly sense all the current draw it should ajust the output correctly
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