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  2. Sorry, the site wont accept my pic do to its size? Standard iphone 6 jpeg format? I ended up making an accurrate drawing on graph paper to 1/4 scale since the real photos werent in any way ‘technically’ representative of the dimensions due to bad lighting and angles... its a transmissionline(sorry for the ‘tranny’ that tapers 3:1(by my uneducated eye. The woofer is located offset in the line as you see in a lot of home audio designs lately. Judging from the big ends cross section and some stickers on the truck it seems a 12”RF p3 was the likely driver(guess). Theres some pt1s tweeters and punch pro 6.5s in the front doors still.... so that helped the guess. Maybe this will help, sorry its a pinterest link. https://pin.it/2clzcpeoydjx6u
  3. The efficiency and frequency response of a subwoofer is going to be VERY box dependant. Please keep in mind that efficiency ratings on subwoofers are completely meaningless because there isn't a standardized way to measure them and they are usually done in free air and at 1 kHz. I don't know why manufacturers even bother. The posted frequency range is equally useless because again, it doesn't take the enclosure into account. As far as your specific situation goes, you certainly can try putting the DC sub in your current box and running them sealed just to see how they sound. If nothing else it will give you a good base from which to compare how they sound in a ported box. The ported box should have a lot more output around the tuning frequency compared to the sealed enclosure.
  4. Just need to get my 1.5" acrylic window and cut out a bigger window behind the current one and add another sheet. Then 45's to attach sides to roof and stack fab my port.
  5. One last question. What would happen if I just throw the DClvl2 into the 1.25 box and leave it sealed? It would be around 1.1cuft actual space.
  6. Typical work day for me in ALASKA. Hasn't rained in 7 weeks and now that it started might not stop until it snows. But it has been the hottest summer i can remember. 80's & 90's have been awesome to work 12 hrs a day in. I specialize in under ground utilities and with the ground freezing so deep H20 mains have to be min 10'. Here we are at 13+'. 2 more years and i can retire. Double stacked trench box @ 12'. Been 25' at the deepest in my career. Once i go down in the morning only a shit or quitting time gets me out. Hard Fucking job, dangerous too! Manufacture's are making pipe 20.5' long and the trench bow is 24'. Not hard to imagine there is little protection and cave ins happen behind you often and slide into the box. Been a good career, look forward to finishing and moving on. Local 341 2019 pipelayer scale $36 an hour + all benefits.
  7. Thanks for the response Triticum. I have another quick question for you if you have a moment. How are the DC lvl2 subs musically? The Kappas were extremely efficient ([email protected]),had an FS of 23.32Hz and a freq response of 18-200Hz. They sounded amazing in a sealed box. I am a little nervous going to DC's in a ported box. I don't want to lose the low end extension and I can't find numbers on the DC freq response. I know they're just stats and ultimately what matters is how they sound... any suggestions? (I am pairing it with Focal mids/highs FWIW)
  8. Yesterday
  9. Looks good to me. Add 45's in corners and maybe a dowel to brace the baffle and the overall cu ft will fall around 4.25
  10. Ray P, is one of the best people walking the earth. Him, and his "group" of audio peeps, are just straight up, good humans. Always ALWAYS, make us feel at home when we are in their neck of the woods. That jeep is full retard also...... Great vid , as always Luke. . Sloppy kisses ...
  11. Just incase anyone runs into this, I figured it out. The amp was picking up some sort of noise from my car through the head unit. All I had to do was ground the rca's to the head unit shield and it stopped the noise.
  12. Some one backed into the rear quarter panel and fucked my son’s car up. 3500 dollars worth of damage. Going into the body shop Wednesday.
  13. Well Ray aka (JeepandBass) has come along way from what he started with. I'm sure a good amount of my followers, follow Ray's channel. His setup now does 160 decibels and is windy as hell haha. Always love getting a demo in this beast. Thank you Ray for the demo! And not to forget the absolute beautiful install he has done!!! Ray's youtube channel https://www.youtube.com/user/JeepAndBass His ride consists of (6) JVF 3.3 12s (3) DC Audio 5k Amplifiers (8) Audio Dynamic 3000 components (2) Audio Dynamic 1000.4s (8) Full Throttle Group 31 Batteries (2 JS 300amp Alternators Sky High OFC wiring SMD Fusing Recorded and Edited with Canon Rebel T3i Sigma 17-50mm 2.8 lens Sigma 10-20mm 4-5.6 lens Canon 50mm 1.8 Edited with Adobe Premiere Pro CC 2018 I DO NOT OWN THE RIGHTS TO THE MUSIC USED IN THIS VIDEO ALL RIGHTS RESERVED FOR THE ARTISTS The links to my social medias are below. https://www.facebook.com/luke.schaller https://soundcloud.com/rallybass88 http://instagram.com/schallerphotography
  14. Viper, yes. I like JL Audio highs and subs. I can't recommend any 15's, as I've only ever ran 10's and 12's. https://www.ebay.com/itm/JL-Audio-C2-690TX-3-Way-Coaxial-Speaker-System/113786425035?epid=99159249&hash=item1a7e330ecb:g:8scAAOSw0uVdAtfc
  15. Just make sure if you change any setting in ur deck and I mean any setting to recheck rca out distortion. I had all mine set and unhooked the battery’s to work on wiring upgrades and for some reason it reset all my setting in my deck which has never happened before. I ended up blowing a coil because time alignment got turned in by default and caused me to clip at volume 32 and I had it set to 40 going full blast. So 8 past clipping lol. 250 dollar mistake I will never do again, I almost cried when it happened. Now at any high volume it makes a loud ping sound, and if you push down on the dust cap you can hear it rubbing on something. Glade a drop in kit for an NSV4 is only 250 when the sub cost 1150 dollars.
  16. Here is a link to my port area calculator. It takes things like box volume, tuning frequency, and input power and give you a suggestion for port area. https://goo.gl/STAv4p
  17. Just to clarify I used a few online calculators and the mean outcome seems to be around 3" diameter and 10" long. .... However I know how these calculators tend to be 'one size fits all' which makes them hard to trust, so I am hoping you guys might have a little more insight when it comes to high excursion subs. Also just for a little more insight, I am very much about SQ, but I like volume A LOT. I was raised in an extremely musical family. Both my parents are orchestral musicians, and I am your typical band geek, to the level that I was carving oboe reeds at a young age. I can hear clipping and 'off sounds' more than I would like. Sorry I am getting off track. I think what I am trying to say is that I have a general idea of what to go with, but I am hoping someone on here that is WAY more experienced than me can give me some good insight and maybe help me avoid some common pitfalls and mistakes that might completely ruin my sound.
  18. Damnit! This thread got me like xi need that one, no that one. Wait look at that one" This doesn't help the rockford addiction at all. I need to quit skipping my Fosgate anonymous meetings.
  19. Hey guys/gals, first post. Just as a quick hello to introduce myself... I am 40yrs old, live in NorCal, and have been installing my own car audio since I was 16. Every vehicle I have ever owned has remained with stock sound for only months before the bug bit me. I have been watching SMD on you tube for quite a while and I am SO HAPPY I finally found the community, so thank you! Anyway on to the meat of my question... I have a single 12" Infinity Kappa perfect 12.1 (the kind with the white aluminum cone) in my truck (powered by 500w RMS) that is quite old and the surround is starting to separate... so it's about time to replace it. I am thinking the DC lvl2 is a nice replacement, but my enclosure is sealed and around 1.25ft^3. In order to use the same enclosure that fits behind the seat perfectly, I am thinking a port would bring it do DC's specs (.75ft^3 sealed, 1.25ft^3 ported.) ... I know it's not going to be perfect because the sub fills 0.15ft^3 and the port will take room also, but it will be close. So, my idea is basically to just cut a hole and bolt a round port in it. The port has to be short enough to not connect with the sub itself, obviously, and preferably round to make installation simple. The box is a crutchfield S/O trunk box... exact dimensions are 17-3/8"W x 14-1/2"H x 13-5/8"D1 x 10-1/2"D2. If I tuck the port into the rear corner I am hoping there could be enough room. After everything I have seen and read about DC speakers I want to give them a shot, but my finances are tight and I can only afford just the speaker at the moment, so I NEED to use the same amp and enclosure. Any help towards what port dimensions I should use would be SUPER appreciated. Thank you! (sorry if this has already been asked. I did a search and was a bit overwhelmed) Thanks again for any help!
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