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I will keep you in the loops thanks alot bro i appreciate it. I will be more than happy to give u a donation for the help when the time comes

I would definitely look into seat lift kits to fit a box of proper size for those subs, make that enclosure with 3/4" birch wood, dual layer for the baffle, proper bracing inside, specs are 4 cubic feet net 64 square inches of port area tuned to 32Hz, I believe the sub cutouts need to be 7.34". Depending on how much space you find to work with I could fine tune that spec to increase output and low end extension as possible.

So here is a suggestion, power: to subs rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 3 3/4", figure is just an assembly guide:

You dont have a clue what i have stud FYI. The amp im currently using (cus the last one i had went snap crackle pop) dynos over 5400rms @1 ohm on 14.3 volts. Thats not my issue tho. Issue is how to put 5000 watts underneath a back seat if its even possible. Which it sounds like it isnt.

@Joe X Awsome thanks joe will maybe think about building my own then. I have removed a seat already to fit my 5.5 cube box. Were having another child and need the seat room thats why i wanted an enclosure underneath. For conversation sake. If this was your truck. And you could only work with the space underneath your seat. And wanted the biggest bang and lowest frequency possible with an enclosure like that. What might you suggest?

Looking for some guidance on enclosure design. Would like to start with a Sub up Port back template. Two Savard Rap 12" 2 Ohm 750 RMS. Planning on wiring in series and parallel back to 2 ohm Amp is a Stinger Audio MT20001 that will supposedly push 1500 watts at 2ohm Vehicle is a 1998 Jeep Cherokee XJ open cabin cargo area with ample dimensions for an enclosure. Thinking I will maintain a squared enclosure with the sides extended to angle the woofers toward the front slightly. I got rough numbers from Savard: Net Volume 2.25 Cuft each sub ported at 35 Hz Port area 20.25 inches square 16" port length They offered a basic design with no position for the port or the subs. L - 39.5 H - 15 D - 20 vent size: L - 18.6 H - 13.5 W - 3.5 Seems like a decent enough starting point but the options seem to be, one large box with one port, one large box with two ports, one box with two separate cavities with two ports. My thought is to put a single port in the center so both drivers have the same variables like airflow and distance to the port etc. Seems like having a port on one end leaves one driver farther from the port while one has the back spacing encroached upon. I don't know really. I may be overthinking the whole thing, but I really don't want to just build a box, cut some holes and hope for the best. Advice welcome.

Hey guys, I'm new to the group and I come barring questions!!!.. important questions tho lol I have a 2019 Ford Edge with stock radio using a D4S EZ SNI35-2V 2ch. loc converter and I just installed: -Excessive Amperage 400a alternator (charges around 14.7- 15ish at idle) I'm going to wire a little volt meter in to monitor it) -Big 3 installed -1/0 wiring -2 runs of 1/0 gauge w/ double anl fuse holders/600a anl fuse back to the amp (sundown salt-6) -ROCK LIGHTS (for both outside/inside of car) (Not installed yet) Resting volts for batteries: -AGM/12.64 -Liths./13.13(all 3 individually read same) - XS Power D4800 (2,000-3,000w) AGM battery under the hood -3 D4S LTO-6.0 12V Lithium batteries (w/buss bars) (6,000-10,000w) in the back (NOT installed yet) But ive been reading around online and I'm seeing both yay and nay with running both AGM and lithium. I'm seeing stuff about resting volts for both, isolators (and when to use them/car on&off) run a set of wire straight off alt. to the lithiums and then I've alsol read not to run those wires. I seen something about wiring the batteries in parallel (w/isolator (&also) w/o isolator) or wire in series, use a DC-DC converter vs isolator... So my question is, what do I do here and how do I do it lol. I know lithiums charge faster and hold a higher rest volt so I don't want to do a straight run from the alt. Or do I get isolator/DC-DC converter and wire it to the power wire going back or wire straight to the battery? Can that combination of batteries and setup even be safely possible? Or do I completely do away with them and get a different type of battery? Thanks for your suggestions and helps!

You dont have 5000 watts on anything. FYI

No low level inputs,... sounds like aids.

That box is designed for SA-8s as a result the X subs are going to find themselves in a too small box with low port area and tuned too high, surely above the 36Hz specified as driver displacement for X subs is larger, maybe it will get to 38Hz or more and could experience some port noise. Used to a large box tuned very low you will definitely notice a loss in bottom octave bass. Regarding to your question, you can always strengthen the box but if it is made of cheap thin 5/8" wood then it is not impossible. Lastly the pre cut sub holes cannot fit X subs, you will have to work on the holes. Overall that box seem expensive and not adequate for the subs. I would lift up the seats and do a proper custom enclosure for those subs and even then you probably have better bottom octave bass right now than you will ever get with some 8s.

I have a 18" in a 5.5 cube box with 5000 watts on it. It takes up a third of my backseat and have my seat removed for it in my 2012 sierra denali 1500. I wantwd to keep the amp and get this 4x8" sub enclosure for under my seat and throw 4x1000 watt rms 8" sundowns in there. Im pretty sure the fox boxes are 5/8" mdf. I dont see any interal bracing. I suppose i could throw a couple in there maybe by screwing them in and then just using some liner to touch up the screw holes? Any thoughts?

Should be fairly easy to determine what's at fault just swap parts, you have another amp, test with that, use another sub and test, check your gains, do it fast so that you can send the product back for warranty if necessary.

I have just bought a brand new Alpine R2-W12D2 subwoofer and installed it in my cabinet. The sub is rated for 750 watt RMS and 2250 MAX. The amp is a Crunch Groundpounder GPX 2200.1 giving 800 watt RMS and 1600 watt MAX The flapping sound, in the video below, comes when I turn the volume up quite high and then continues after I turn it down to almost nothing for about 5 - 10 min. I've checked that the + and - cables aren't switched around, and I've tried tightening it to the case to the point where I can not tighten it anymore. I have also tried brand-new phono plugs. Yet the problem continues. The amp was bought brand new and used for about 2 months after blowing a sub. The sub was way overpowered. The new Alpine sub is also bought brand new. Any help solving this problem is greatly appreciated Imgur link to video: https://imgur.com/a/KyeSg0s

Tossing around the idea of changing up my current system but want some input from the community. For reference,; I have a 350 amp mechman, XS Power D2700 under the hood and a D3400 in the back, JP 23 at .7 ohm and JP234, Big 3. I have a voltage regulator that I haven’t installed yet, truck limits the voltage to 13.8. Subs are Sundown x8s. I do have voltage dropping down into the mid 12s but I believe a lot of that has to do with the inefficiency of running such a low impedance. Kicking around the idea of running a Taramps Smart Bass 8K. I believe BigDWiz showed that the Taramps Smart line had a fairly decent efficiency rating. Would also be possibly looking at a more powerful mids and high amp or bridging the JP234. The question is how much more electrical would I need to adequately power what I have in mind? Would the voltage regulator make much of a difference if say I turned the system voltage up to 14.8? Tossing around the idea of building a headway lithium bank, however there is such a temperature swing through the year where I am located, Kentucky, that I don’t want to take a chance of ruining the cells or my truck. This is just a 2nd vehicle I have that I take out occasionally, probably don’t even put 4000 miles a year on it. I don’t compete, I just enjoy the hobby of car audio.

hello, i want to know if your wife's is300 is still working well?

what did it go into?

took 1st place in mod 10k yesterday at the USACi show and got edged out in street beat 3 ended up doing a 151 musical average using the streetbeat track #10 which plays in the 20hz range and then tracks 8/9 ( 30 hz range ) got me a musical average of 155 i paid for a rerun just to play track 10 and meter it to see what iwould come up with heres 2 of my favorite clips i recorded from that show yesterday

Most component set passive crossovers don’t include a high pass for the midwoofer. I would check to make sure but it’s likely you need to high pass the amp’s output.

This morning I saw an older Tahoe video (audiocontrol with knob iirc) and something that steve said motivated me to get back into enjoying car audio again. Long story not short, my 03 trailblazer sat for a couple of years until my daily car stopped moving without a tow truck in december lol. Since I started driving the 03 tb, I cooked 8 t2 tweets and fucked up the t10004ad. It was a series of unfortunate events. Anywho, I got off my a55 and started seeing if the t10004ad is salvageable. I think it's gonna be fine. Also whaddup tdh

RFP are HE2 not HX2, driver displacement are not the same.

Sealed enclosure 2 rfp hx2 12 inch

The installer told me that he wants to do a battery delete in the front but I want to know could someone recommend me a battery. Lithium or whatever??

I have a American Bass XFL 1222 with a Taramp HD2000 and I am struggling to get the sub bumping. I used the multimeter to tune it with a 50 hz test tone at 0db with the head unit at 75%ish (stock head unit). For the break in i am running it low for a bit to be safe, the first tune i was giving it 21V, then that wasnt loud enough in my opinion so i got it to 26V. That still didnt sound loud so I finally cranked it to 31V and it is still not loud. I know it should be at around 39V for 1500RMS but I know what a 750 RMS sub sounds like and that is no where near it while at the same voltage. (around 22V). My friends sub is a 800W RMS sub and he is running it at arround 24V and it is way louder. So i think i must be doing something wrong. I did some reading and thought maybe I should use a -5db test tone instead. I tried that but it did not reach the voltage that I wanted it to. Here are the max voltages I was outputting for my amp 60hz -5db : 35.6V 50Hz -5db : 26.8V 40Hz -5db : 17.9V 60hz 0db : 51.2V 50Hz 0db : 39.4V 40Hz 0db : 26.1V If I am using a -5db test tone shouldnt the voltage be set the same as I would with a 0db tone which would make the sub louder. ie: 21V 0db = 21V -5db I have no clue why it is so quiet. I wired the sub (DVC 2ohm) to 1 ohm for the amp and expected atleast 31V to be at a good loudness (louder then my friends 850W sub) but i was wrong. theory 1 - Maybe the line out converter needs to be ajusted for. Never had to adjust this one for any other system. theory 2 - Maybe the DMM is not reading it acuratly but I dont think it will be that off to the point where 31V sounds like 10V output in my friends sub. I am gonna order a O-Scope to see if that is my issue. If anyone has any ideas please let me know as I want to get the sub booming ASAP.