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So here is a suggestion, power: to sub(s) rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 3 1/2", figure is just an assembly guide: NOTE: If building outside you need to build a cardboard dummy box to test fit before building the real box. NOTE: Box can still be used with better subs for a future upgrade.

OP post the model for the speakers and also the model of the amp. Maybe you will need two amps but let's see.

What kind of speakers? where are you going to put them?

I found this… hoping @Joe X can help me… looks like I’m the book they recommend 40hz tuning lower probably isn’t a thing xtrpro102.pdf

Features: Diameter: 12" Max Power Handling: 5000 Watts Nominal Power Handling: 2500 Watts RMS Power Handling: 1250 Watts Fs (Hz): 32.3/30.5 Qts: 0.59/0.56 (.67L) Vas (cu ft): 1.256/1.198 (.36 cu m) Sensitivity: 84.4dB/83.7dB Mounting Hole Dia.: 11" Mounting Depth: 6.5" Polypropylene dust cap and paper cone is moisture and UV resistant Symmetrical tuned long-throw surround Dual interlaced conex spider Custom cast aluminum frame Tinsel leads stitched and looped across spider Venting in voice coil former is part of the enhanced voice coil cooling system Advanced forced convection cooling system Tri-cooling system Copper wound voice coil on aluminum former

I need help with a sub box. For 2 Orion XTR PROs Dual 4 Ohm woofers. I can’t find much oh them when it comes too t/s parameters.. box will be going in a chrysler 300 max box space area is around 40 w 43 d x 20 high max gonna run them at 1500 to 2000 watts so a box that can run lows say 32 to 33 hz plz help subs back port back..

I have Four 75 RMS 225 peak w speakers and 2 100rms 300 peak w, how do I connect to one amp or should I use two amps ?

Some lithium chemistry's cant be ran with agm or lead acid batteries. The D4S LTO 6.0 can be though, I have a few different people using them with mixed setups using XS Power D3400s as starting batteries and the LTO in the back by the amps with no problems, no isolators, and no other converters like people are rambling about. Now if it was a chemistry that cant be ran with agms, then you would need some sort of isolator, but then its still stupid because you just delete the front battery and run everything off the lithium and be done with it. Which is why you see people build dumb wooden boxes the size of a battery and call it a battery delete, all you really need though is just a distribution hub under the hood to connect the factory 12v electronics too. Simple buss bars do that just fine.

Hey guys, hope all is well. Ill get right into it. I did a small upgrade in the car and added a set of Jl Audio c1s 6.5 with a crappy headunit replacement because it was as far as my budget could go. No amplifiers. the head unit is https://www.elektramobileaudio.com/mhu-32bt-head-unit/. This is where its gets tricky, so my brother had a pair of the jl C2's 6.5 and he loaned me the crossovers as he wasn't using it. I then replaced the crappy crossovers that came with the c1 and am currently using the c1 speakers with the c2 crossovers. The problem with the headunit is that it has no crossover setting, nor hpf/lpf setting, it basically just has an EQ. A couple questions 1. Does the c1 midbass speaker have a natural roll off for the highpass that i don't need a highpass filter. If so, what's the average roll off and at what order for yall with the experience. 2. Given i cant set crossover with the head unit, should i simply EQ out the lower end or will the speaker naturally roll off. Thanks in advance

I will keep you in the loops thanks alot bro i appreciate it. I will be more than happy to give u a donation for the help when the time comes

I would definitely look into seat lift kits to fit a box of proper size for those subs, make that enclosure with 3/4" birch wood, dual layer for the baffle, proper bracing inside, specs are 4 cubic feet net 64 square inches of port area tuned to 32Hz, I believe the sub cutouts need to be 7.34". Depending on how much space you find to work with I could fine tune that spec to increase output and low end extension as possible.

So here is a suggestion, power: to subs rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 3 3/4", figure is just an assembly guide:

You dont have a clue what i have stud FYI. The amp im currently using (cus the last one i had went snap crackle pop) dynos over 5400rms @1 ohm on 14.3 volts. Thats not my issue tho. Issue is how to put 5000 watts underneath a back seat if its even possible. Which it sounds like it isnt.

@Joe X Awsome thanks joe will maybe think about building my own then. I have removed a seat already to fit my 5.5 cube box. Were having another child and need the seat room thats why i wanted an enclosure underneath. For conversation sake. If this was your truck. And you could only work with the space underneath your seat. And wanted the biggest bang and lowest frequency possible with an enclosure like that. What might you suggest?

Looking for some guidance on enclosure design. Would like to start with a Sub up Port back template. Two Savard Rap 12" 2 Ohm 750 RMS. Planning on wiring in series and parallel back to 2 ohm Amp is a Stinger Audio MT20001 that will supposedly push 1500 watts at 2ohm Vehicle is a 1998 Jeep Cherokee XJ open cabin cargo area with ample dimensions for an enclosure. Thinking I will maintain a squared enclosure with the sides extended to angle the woofers toward the front slightly. I got rough numbers from Savard: Net Volume 2.25 Cuft each sub ported at 35 Hz Port area 20.25 inches square 16" port length They offered a basic design with no position for the port or the subs. L - 39.5 H - 15 D - 20 vent size: L - 18.6 H - 13.5 W - 3.5 Seems like a decent enough starting point but the options seem to be, one large box with one port, one large box with two ports, one box with two separate cavities with two ports. My thought is to put a single port in the center so both drivers have the same variables like airflow and distance to the port etc. Seems like having a port on one end leaves one driver farther from the port while one has the back spacing encroached upon. I don't know really. I may be overthinking the whole thing, but I really don't want to just build a box, cut some holes and hope for the best. Advice welcome.

Hey guys, I'm new to the group and I come barring questions!!!.. important questions tho lol I have a 2019 Ford Edge with stock radio using a D4S EZ SNI35-2V 2ch. loc converter and I just installed: -Excessive Amperage 400a alternator (charges around 14.7- 15ish at idle) I'm going to wire a little volt meter in to monitor it) -Big 3 installed -1/0 wiring -2 runs of 1/0 gauge w/ double anl fuse holders/600a anl fuse back to the amp (sundown salt-6) -ROCK LIGHTS (for both outside/inside of car) (Not installed yet) Resting volts for batteries: -AGM/12.64 -Liths./13.13(all 3 individually read same) - XS Power D4800 (2,000-3,000w) AGM battery under the hood -3 D4S LTO-6.0 12V Lithium batteries (w/buss bars) (6,000-10,000w) in the back (NOT installed yet) But ive been reading around online and I'm seeing both yay and nay with running both AGM and lithium. I'm seeing stuff about resting volts for both, isolators (and when to use them/car on&off) run a set of wire straight off alt. to the lithiums and then I've alsol read not to run those wires. I seen something about wiring the batteries in parallel (w/isolator (&also) w/o isolator) or wire in series, use a DC-DC converter vs isolator... So my question is, what do I do here and how do I do it lol. I know lithiums charge faster and hold a higher rest volt so I don't want to do a straight run from the alt. Or do I get isolator/DC-DC converter and wire it to the power wire going back or wire straight to the battery? Can that combination of batteries and setup even be safely possible? Or do I completely do away with them and get a different type of battery? Thanks for your suggestions and helps!

You dont have 5000 watts on anything. FYI

No low level inputs,... sounds like aids.

That box is designed for SA-8s as a result the X subs are going to find themselves in a too small box with low port area and tuned too high, surely above the 36Hz specified as driver displacement for X subs is larger, maybe it will get to 38Hz or more and could experience some port noise. Used to a large box tuned very low you will definitely notice a loss in bottom octave bass. Regarding to your question, you can always strengthen the box but if it is made of cheap thin 5/8" wood then it is not impossible. Lastly the pre cut sub holes cannot fit X subs, you will have to work on the holes. Overall that box seem expensive and not adequate for the subs. I would lift up the seats and do a proper custom enclosure for those subs and even then you probably have better bottom octave bass right now than you will ever get with some 8s.

I have a 18" in a 5.5 cube box with 5000 watts on it. It takes up a third of my backseat and have my seat removed for it in my 2012 sierra denali 1500. I wantwd to keep the amp and get this 4x8" sub enclosure for under my seat and throw 4x1000 watt rms 8" sundowns in there. Im pretty sure the fox boxes are 5/8" mdf. I dont see any interal bracing. I suppose i could throw a couple in there maybe by screwing them in and then just using some liner to touch up the screw holes? Any thoughts?

Should be fairly easy to determine what's at fault just swap parts, you have another amp, test with that, use another sub and test, check your gains, do it fast so that you can send the product back for warranty if necessary.

I have just bought a brand new Alpine R2-W12D2 subwoofer and installed it in my cabinet. The sub is rated for 750 watt RMS and 2250 MAX. The amp is a Crunch Groundpounder GPX 2200.1 giving 800 watt RMS and 1600 watt MAX The flapping sound, in the video below, comes when I turn the volume up quite high and then continues after I turn it down to almost nothing for about 5 - 10 min. I've checked that the + and - cables aren't switched around, and I've tried tightening it to the case to the point where I can not tighten it anymore. I have also tried brand-new phono plugs. Yet the problem continues. The amp was bought brand new and used for about 2 months after blowing a sub. The sub was way overpowered. The new Alpine sub is also bought brand new. Any help solving this problem is greatly appreciated Imgur link to video: https://imgur.com/a/KyeSg0s