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  3. Here is a very crude drawing of what I have in my head for the layout of the electrical portion of my system. Laughing is welcome. Lol. I have everything from the hood up to the trunk done as far as electrical goes... This is about everything from there back. All wire is 1/0 skyhigh OFC, 300a JS alt, 3 xp3000's, sundown ns1, 2 zv5 12s . The questions are these: 1. Do I need to run a ground to the frame for each battery in the bank or just tie them together as shown in the picture with 1 ground run going to the frame? 2. Since my amp has three power inputs, do I need to run 3 power wires from the battery bank to the distro then 3 runs to amp OR is the 1 run going from the bank to the distro then 3 runs to the amp in the picture enough? 3. Same goes for grounds. There are three ground inputs. Do I need to run 3 grounds from the bank to the amp and then run 3 grounds from the bank to the frame OR will 3 runs from the bank to the amp and then 1 ground to the frame from the bank be enough? If the answers are yes I do need to match the 3 power/grounds from the amp then... 4. Do I need to run 3 power/ground runs each between each battery in the bank as well? Since my box is taking up the entire trunk space (have to build in trunk), I will be putting the battery bank in the spare tire wheel well. I will not be able to access the batteries after I build the box. This is why I am trying to find all of this out before I can actually test the system electrical. All input is welcome. If anyone notices anything else wrong please chime in. Thanks!
  4. Working on the doors a bit today. This factory vinyl is a pain to remove without my tools here, but ima glutton for punishment, so this is what its lookin like.
  5. I bought a pair of 3 inch full range Daytons to make a soundbar for the living room with, but as im reading, I'd kinda like to try my hand at a T-line... Do you think these - https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-pc83-4-3-full-range-poly-cone-driver--295-154 - paired up with a tweeter and a woofer will work in the same enclosure or should I stick to the soundbar with these and make a dedicated woofer for the T line instead?
  6. There is a bit of a complicated answer to this. Subs have two limitations on how much power they can take, there is the mechanical limit of how far the cone/coil can travel before bad things happen, and then there is the thermal limit of how much heat the coil can dissipate before stuff starts to overhead and come apart. Both of these limits are impacted significantly by the type & specs of the enclosure and the type of sound being played. The mechanical limit is more cut and dry, a sub can handle X number of watts at Y frequency before there is mechanical damage. The thermal limit is a bit harder to nail down. A sub can hand X watts at Y frequency continuously for Z amount of time. Notice I said "continuously". This is related to what the RMS rating is. Most subs can handle brief periods of MUCH more power, as long as its for a short amount of time and the sub is given a chance to cool back down, and as long as it doesn't exceed the mechanical limits. For example, when playing a ported box around the tuning frequency, there is tons of cone control and it will be extremely difficult to ever exceed its mechanical limits, however cooling isn't as good and impedance is low so there is lots of heat going into the coil. This is a situation where you could give a QUALITY sub 2-3 times its RMS rating, as long as it was quick. Now, here is how all that applies to T-lines. The way most people build t-lines these days results in a very oversized enclosure, IMHO. This reduces the mechanical power handling of the sub significantly. If the T-line reduces the mechanical power handling of a 1000 watt sub down to 400 watts, that's its. If you play more than 400 watts and the wrong frequency, say goodbye to your sub. You sub may still have tons of thermal capacity left, but its doesn't matter, in this situation mechanical power handling is the weakest link in the chain. The proper way to determine how your sub will do in a T-line is to model that T-line in simulation software such as HornResp. Then you will know just what you can get away with.
  7. Once you know your front chamber size you should be able to plug your numbers into my port area calculator and it will let you know what you should be shooting for for port area. https://goo.gl/STAv4p
  8. It just feels as though there is a cap on the power and no matter if i add a next battery or upgraded my alt it just sounds the same
  9. New videos: New amplifiers, 2x Soundigital SD20000.1D Power 10Hz +150dB: Propper Droppers Finland first competition:
  10. Ported side will be built heavy duty on top of sealed chamber out of 2x1" 17ply + 1x¾" 13ply Baltic Russian Birch for a total of 2.5" total thickness braced. I think it'll be good. I have buddies that have 1.5 inch slide in walls that do 160's. More to come soon.
  11. Sealed chamber math. Inside dimensions... 45x45x10.375÷1728= 12.158ft³ Bracing is 4x1.375x10.375x10= 570.625÷1728=0.330 12.158-0.330= 11.828ft³ sealed. 11.828÷4= 2.957ft³ per driver. SIMPLE.
  12. Yes 45 hz and they will be getting about 2k rms each
  13. How much power are you going to be running? I assume you will tune to around 45 Hz?
  14. Fresh new pictures of Saleen Build # 2 utilizing high quality American made Second Skin products ...Saleen S7 LeMans Edition "Black and Yellow"
  15. if a sub is rated for 1000 watts rms and 2000 peak , if a t line makes it so this sub can only play 400rms safely what happens peak? also can the t line play at the 1k rms? can someone clear this up for me, i am clearly confused
  16. Check your alt serpentine belt. check grounds for amp and alt one run of 1/0 can hold 350 A easy no way are not having enough head room for what u have you might have something similar to a electric load detector like my civic
  17. My matching sub unwound. So while I wait for upgraded recones, might as well play around with my working one with no regard for blowing it. 2014 CrewCab F-150. Prs80 100ah lithium 2 banda 7ks 1 ohm versions 1 10" NSv4 D2 with SPL surround. Box will be on the back floor. Cabin is so big I have unloading issues unless port fires into door. Loudest so far in this truck is a pair of 10" Zv5s in a 1:3 4th, on a banda 7k each, at 2 ohm, 146.xxdb at 45hz. Never played around with burp boxes. Was thinking a 1 cube sealed cube to find resonant frequency. Then build a 1.5 cube box that I can shrink, and an aero port to shrink as well. Don't know diameter yet. What am I looking for port wise? 12-16sq.in. per cube for musical boxes...is there a rule for spl? Tune 45hz and up?
  18. Plans for this weekend ... Pull all four door panels on this big girl and get back to playing the "Seek and Destroy all the Rattles" game ...
  19. I'm building a 4th order for 2 American bass xfl12s with a round port. How do I calculate the ports diameter? I'm going with a 2:1. Thanks in advance.
  20. I have 1 sundown sa 12 d2. Is a sundown 600 d a good amp for it?
  21. Very helpful guys yep im all bout that gud ol silicone n bed liner and great stuff foam and thanks for the pics aburger cant fig out how to post any yet keeps saying my pics are to big to post lol im not very technical with phones n such soon as i figure out how ill post some pics of my cut out and truck you all have helped me get my plan togather cant wait to get the grinder out yes sir!
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