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  2. Bingo, this stuck with me. Thanks for that! Makes so much sense. If sending DC to the coils (mine are D2, btw, so I will be wiring down to an amp-safe 1ohm only), you induce heat as the coil wants to react in one direction only with the flux field. Non-clipped signal has a clear path to ground and therefore stays cool, but now xmax limits are stressed. Am I understanding this correctly?
  3. Time to install tune up parts and Chip. I have these in the Lancer, see how they perform in a GM design. New coils, threw some decals on they for the hell of it. Removed computer for chip install. I really had to push hard to get it to lock . I thought shit now i'm gone fuck something up! lol Back on the car, we'll see if it did anything this spring. Installing battery but with a better post set up, couldn't stand the way this looked. I like working on both cars at the same time. Not much room under the hood. might have to get the set screw style for clearance. we'll see. Stock electrical runs. I cut the factory battery clamps off, Tesa taped factory power & ground runs. rerouted to look better. SHCA 4 gauge lug crimped on. Still need to finish a bunch of wiring up, install big three, start power runs to rear, put the engine bay back together. hope to get that much done in the next couple weeks. Once Christmas is over and all cleaned up i will be able to put 8 hrs a day 5 days a week to make some real progress. I put this fan on the HU to keep it cool during long play times. Which i do often, sit back all baked and listen thinking damn this sounds good as is, what the hell is it going to sound like when its finished!
  4. Right on. Thanks for the info. I'm so anxious to get the DD-1+. I've been researching gain settings, equalizer settings and anything else that is pertinent to my system since I got it. It's what led me here and got me to buy the DD-1+. I really thank you for the help.
  5. I don't expect the driver will ever even see 8k. I have a lot of data acquisition components built that are being incorporated into the build so that I can monitor power at several points along the line from alternator to driver and driver load. The bass and music is cool, but the technical stuff and build is what's exciting for me.
  6. This is precisely the kind of info I was after, thank you for this! I understand the concepts of driver thermal and mechanical limitations at an elementary level, though I'm no engineer. Thermomechanical limitations with Fi drivers, specifically the competition level stuff, from what I've read, tend to be at a higher level than more common retail commercial drivers, hence the focused question. Also, I'm a night nurse, so don't dismiss me as a brand new account, one-post noob that disappears forever after asking why my severely underpowered sub sounds like shit after turning my gain and bass boost pots all the way up if you don't get a response from me during regular business hours! I also understand that there is no general formula that applies to output, and that the variables are so vast that to ask such a basic question automatically puts doubt into the audience's minds regarding my level of knowledge and understanding, but I thought I'd take a stab at posing the question to a large group of "bassheads" here at SMD as the SQ crowd over at another popudiymalar forum haven't been too receptive or responsive to SPL guys. They seem to be more concerned about how their response curves look after 50hrs of REW work instead of how it actually sounds to their own ears. Great group though, very knowledgeable, many of them. I'm in the middle though, as I'm looking for an SPL monster with my sub, and SQ with my front stage. SQL. I realize that I'm not going to push numbers like the guys with octo-sub setups with 1.21 gigawatts going to them, but neither am I running on stock electrical. I'm not sure why it feels like overpowering drivers is so taboo to folks, as it's SOP in pro audio. Longevity, reliability, headroom for days and keeping things cool are the goals. Just because there are 600hp under the hood doesn't mean the tires are going to break at ever intersection launch. The accelerator pedal to your car's engine is as a level controller is to a stereo amplifier. Thanks again for taking the time to share that confidence-inspiring experience! I'm going to proceed with the SALT-8 plan. I am building RCA level controllers (3 of them) using Bourns 50k pots to modulate the entire system. Doubtful the gain knob will ever see a degree above zero, but we shall see! It will, and has already been, a fun project!
  7. His hu has adjustable slopes. The cc1 is nice for fine tuning though. I just used mine today to set my new amp.
  8. If you get a cc1 you can use both xovers if you want a bigger dB slope say both deck and amp has a 12 dB slope if you use both xovers you get about a 24db slope as long as the points are identical m..
  9. Leave those gains at zero unless you can max out the hu. Then you can try increasing them. If you can't reach max volume don't adjust them down. Just note what volume you can't play over. Adjusting them down will prevent you from getting full pre out voltage. That is not normal for the equalizer. I've never heard of that before. As far as setting eqs, don't boost weak frequencies, cut the stronger ones. This will help you to avoid clipping your signal. Keep it flat to tune though.
  10. Today
  11. The hu does have selectable slopes and gains for almost every setting and, you are correct, there is a fixed number of frequencies. I guess I'll just have to figure out which does a better job at fine tuning. So during the adjustment for the system gain leave them (the gain) at the factory preset zero in the hu and then adjust down to maybe get max volume out of my hu? I know I'm asking a lot, but I tend to want to know everything I can about s subject I'm working on. I've also noticed that if I set my equalizer above or below anything but flat I lose volume. Is that normal?
  12. Crossovers on the hu probably have selectable slopes but a fixed number of frequencies. Depending on what you like and need for your particular build you may prefer either one. It's whichever you like best. Use your dd-1 to find the hu max volume. If you can max out the hu, try and adjust the hu gain. You may or may not be able to.
  13. I really appreciate the help here. I was honestly thinking of getting the CC-1 down the road as well. In that case are the amp settings a better option or is the HU still going to be a better option? I've noticed that there seems to be a more extensive set of adjustments on it than what I see on the amps. One other question as well, sorry, gain settings on the HU, should I set them to zero or in the negatives? I'm thinking that keeping them at zero is what needs to be done.
  14. Yesterday
  15. the ring is epoxied and screwed and the whole assembly bolts into the door panel in 6 places. also will seal it to the door.
  16. Yes, you can fix the wires/connector. You will have to do some searching to make sure you get the right pins or sockets (whichever it is), but it's an easy fix as long as you have the right parts. I've used these two companies before. https://www.mouser.com/Connectors/Pin-Socket-Connectors/_/N-ay0mm https://deutschconnectorstore.com/ Happy hunting
  17. Just wanted to know if anyone has this same issue, when it’s cold out and I start listening to music in my truck the sound is staticky and distorted for about 5min till the truck starts warming up, had the same issue with the old truck not really made or bitching just want to know I’m not alone. Amps for mids are Rockford PBR 300x2. After the truck is warm shit sounds great.
  18. So I have a 2018 Toyota Corolla, I got some speakers installed and the guys cut the speakers wire from the OEM harness really close to the plug which i knew wasn't right, after a few weeks my speakers started clipping, that same shop said that the channels on the stock radio were fried and that I had to buy a new radio. that same shop refused to fix the cut wiring harness as now I cant put the OEM radio back when I want to sell the car. I took my car to a different shop to get a aftermarket radio so I can have apple car play, i am running RCA's to the amp and everything works fine now. Any tips on what I can do to fix the radio wiring harness? Maybe re-pin the wires that are cut?
  19. If you don't have a cc1 I'd use the hu. The numbers on the dials on the amps are not accurate.
  20. question in title, I was wondering if Steve already sold the Bullshit Amazon returned DD1's? I sold mine when I was hard up and have regret it every day since.. Would love to get one discounted..I Don't even care if used as long as it works.
  21. Thank you for that. That's what I figured and I've been researching this and watching YouTube videos on it, but none of them really go into much detail. One question for you, do you think it's better to use the the amp or hu crossovers? Or does it make any difference which is used?
  22. Crossovers off on hu and amps during tuning. Bass boost off always. After you set up your gains decide whether you want to use the crossovers on the hu or the amp. Don't use both.
  23. Sorry for the long post. I'm New here and I've recently had a whole new system added to my car. I just bought (coming tomorrow) a DD-1+ to calibrate it all because I don't believe the shop I got it at actually calibrates, except by ear. My system: Kenwood Excelon KDC-X702 HU Kenwood Ecelon X302-4 four channel amp Kenwood Excelon X502-1 mono amp (for my subs) 2 Kenwood excelon KFC-XW100 10" subs Focal ISU 165 component 6.5" speakers with satellite tweeters Focal 690AC 6x9 rear speakers The amps have,what seems to be basic setting knobs. My 4 channel (X302-4) has: 2 input sensitivity (gain) knobs (I'm assuming are for front and rear channels) Bass boost knob Filter frequency [hz] 2 filter frequency knobs (again assuming front and rear). A and B switches (once again I'm assuming front and rear) with lpf/off/hpf settings. The mono amp (X502-1) has: A remote control switch which I know is supposed to be turned all the way up during calibration. Infrasonic filter switch (on or off setting) Input sensitivity (gain) knob Bass boost knob LPF knob I know that I set the input sensitivity knobs to minimum but the others I'm not sure of where they should be set during gain calibration. Also the head unit has an equalizer (I've got set to flat) but also lpf and hpf settings and a crossover setting that I'm not sure where they should all be set during the initial calibration. Can anyone give me an idea of what needs to be set where? I want to have an idea of what needs to be done before getting the DD-1+. I would appreciate any help I can get.
  24. Is the baffle for the midbass held in with through bolts from the back?
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