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  2. I was offended. But it was unintended on your part so I’m gonna continue with another design because I deleted the other ones because I honestly was done. But I got you. Hold up.
  3. Thank you.That's what I like to hear.I guess now I just need to figure up a cut sheet and start building.Thumbs up
  4. Subs forward and Port side is the only way them subwoofers will fit in that small cabin. Port side is the best for truck builds anyways. The port can’t be in the front because the enclosure can only be 13.75” deep including the double baffle, 13” without. ( reason it is 13.75” - 2” from the bottom of the rubber grommet to the tip of the surround, plus 1.3” of xmax, so 13.75” plus 3.3” equals 17.05” of depth). It’s impossible to put the port on top of the enclosure or the front. The front wouldn’t work because the subwoofers mounting depth. And the top wouldn’t work because of the width in sequence with the subwoofers and the mounting. You said you wanted a loud build that got low. The build I constructed is the only way. And the enclosure is right at minimum recommend and the port area is right below recommend. There isn’t anything else that can be done short of throwing the enclosure in the bed of that truck. You question my build like you know something and then question it about port distance from a wall because you have been reading too much on the internet and think that you always need at least the width of the port away from a wall. That is ideal, but an inch or two less isn’t a big deal if there’s not much room for the build. Then I design you an enclosure to make you happy with what you read on the internet and making the port a little more than the width of the port away from the wall but it raised the tuning and the enclosure’s net volume went from 5.95 cubic feet to 5.75. And then you question the port on the side like I don’t know what I’m talking about. Even if there were little aero ports put on the front there would have to be so many to make the correct port area that the aero ports would have to be long as shit. So side port is the only way. Subs forward, slot port, bottom side, driver’s side, horizontally. I actually build enclosures and do this in real life and see and hear them all the time. I think i know what I’m talkin about.
  5. Today
  6. Ok,so I'm still stuck on my box design. I was told port to the side but was wondering how that would work. I'm not competing just want a loud daily is all. Hope someone can help.
  7. All threads have been helpful to me but this one has answered most questions I haven't found an answer to. Well an answer in 2020. Thanks to all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  8. Thanks for the input hopefully the rockford does good at 1.5 ohms?
  9. 14v on hair trick notes. Check the stats too. By the way, that’s not the dude I was talking about with the 2 dc 5ks.
  10. As long as you don’t drop below 13 when it comes to lithium then you’re good. If you ever drop into the 12s, then turn it down until you add more lithium.
  11. that's what i'm thinking. i guess they just haven't worked with lithium batteries. i figured i had the right idea. Thanks for the response
  12. More than enough. 45ah of limitless lithium can support 8500 rms clamped with a 200 amp alternator charge. You won’t even be clamping 8500 rms after rise. Maybe if you wire down to 0.5 ohm. Maybe. So 70ah is more than enough. But you’d be better off buying yinlongs and making you’re own banks. 80ah of yinlongs including the parts, $650-$800, verses 70ah of limitless lithium for $1800. That’s an easy choice if you ask me. Yinlongs are lithium-titanate batteries and limitless lithium batteries are lithium iron phosphate batteries and lithium iron phosphate batteries are a little better than lithium-titanite batteries, but not much, not much at all. But if you’re bent on limitless lithium then the limitless lithium gorilla series batteries are lithium titanite oxide batteries (LTO) and check out the ratings and see how much rms they can support and you will understand. Check out the limitless lithium G30, that’s $1100 and that’s more than enough. And it says supports 18,000 rms (clamped) with a 500 amp alternator charge, so with a 370 amp charge it can support that dc 9k and then some and you won’t drop below 14v. I know a guy that is running 2 240 amp alternators and 80ah of LTOs on 2 dc 5ks and doesn’t drop below 14.6v. And from the calculations, that G30 is a little more than 80ah or right at 80ah. So you’ll be good. You’re not gonna be clamping 9,000 rms, no where near, maybe around 7000 rms and 80ah of LTOs can support 10,000 rms clamped on a 200 amp alternator charge and not drop below 13.5. So on a 370 amp charge and clamping 7000 rms, you won’t drop below 14v or 14.2v.
  13. Couple quick videos of my doors built and playing...They're not pretty but functional for now...Few weeks from now I'll wrap them and get them looking great ...Still need to deaden my roof but the weather was uncooperative this weekend 20200531_142334.mp4 20200531_143622.mp4 received_584351099168558.mp4
  14. Hold up, I just read that again. How are you running a positive feed and ground through the same distro block? Am I misunderstanding what you’re saying? Are you using 2 blocks? Is the system hooked up?
  15. The same West Coast Customs that Steve Meade crafted this bad ass Acrylic Sign for:
  16. Congratulations to all 31 winners of the Giveaway a Day in May Speaker Tweaker contest. We had over two thousand entries and we greatly appreciate each and every one of you. We will be announcing some extra winners on the original giveaway post by Wednesday, so don't run off too fast. 5/1/20 Email - Del 5/2/20 Email - Brian Kercado 5/3/20 Email - Michael 5/4/20 Email - Carlos 5/5/20 Email - Erwin 5/6/20 Instagram - juiceyjuice650 5/7/20 Instagram - kelisplace 5/8/20 Facebook - Rob Haas 5/9/20 Facebook - Anil Garib 5/10/20 Email - Cory 5/11/20 Email - Luis 5/12/20 Email - Paul Trahan 5/13/20 Instagram - david29866 5/14/20 Email - Bailey 5/15/20 Facebook - Mike Blankenshi 5/16/20 Nick B - Facebook 5/17/20 Joe - Email 5/18/20 Ethan C - Facebook 5/19/20 Alfredo - Email 5/20/20 Charles - Email 5/21/20 Joshua Pugh - Email 5/22/20 Christopher - Email 5/23/20 Brett G - Email 5/24/20 Chris - Email 5/25/20 Raul - Email 5/26/20 Henry - Email 5/27/20 Instagram - tyduncan_1_6_04 5/28/20 Julio - Email 5/29/20 Jamie Baucom - Email 5/30/20 Instagram - nightmareuprise 5/31/20 Richard - Email
  17. It's the same shop that was part of Pimp My Ride before the split up. The same shop that has been doing custom fabrication since 1994. Second Skin has been a partner of theirs since 2004 building custom cars all across the world!!!
  18. Yesterday
  19. @raymo2u post a link to that video where Steve Meade did that. I wanna see the variables involved.
  20. got a present in the mail today. Waiting on #2. Ordering 3 and 4 here soon. I’m getting pretty excited, this thing looks sexy
  21. 2 sundown 12s custom box 500
  22. 2 sundown 12s in custom box 500
  23. One month old nemesis audio 12 in custom box and Nemesis audio 4500 watt Monoblock amo for sale. [email protected] or 405-735-0070
  24. If there’s no ground loop noise then don’t worry about it, you’re fine. It would be stronger grounds if they were separate in separate locations on separate bolts. But if it’s working, then go with it. If it isn’t broke, don’t fix it.
  25. If I have 2 amplifiers, one for the subs and one for the door speakers, should I ground them to the same bolt on the frame instead, or do I really need to use 2 different locations? Right now I have the 8g ground and 0g ground (both less than 6" in length) jacked into a distribution block and then thats grounded to the frame by 0g (4" long). I've seen Meade do it on one of his recent videos and thats where I got the idea from..."The $140 Sound System" videos. Im using Sound Mekanix 2x2 Block, one side for power and one side for ground.
  26. What's the f3 of those in optimal? The xmax looks a little higher on the daytons but pretty close other than that. Well that and RMS
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