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You need to do demo's from the back seat bro and engage the Child locks LMAO

check it out!! Like/subscribe

the driver side back door, the child proof lock is stuck in the on position from the bass breaking it haha...so I could do that haha

one of my friends from way back posted these pics on his facebook page and i thought it was a pretty interesting topic to bring up here. I see people complaining about "brand X" being too expensive and how they are such a rip off because "brand Y" makes a much cheaper amp. Anyway, nowadays, some of these amps are in the 40 - 50 cents per watt range and people STILL bitching about pricing. Well let me tell you how it USED TO BE. You saw an amp behind the glass case at your local shop and you WEREN'T getting it. Period. LOL. the math on that ^^^ is about $8.50 - $8.75 per watt. HOLY SHIT you say....well we said that too I personally run T2500.1bd cp amps that MSRP @ $1599.99 and they all have birthsheets over 3300 watts RMS. That is $.048 cents a watt. AT FULL MSRP. Nobody pays that. Lets say you find my amp for $999.99. A RACK for an amp sounds expensive, FUCK THAT you say.....well i say that is .30 cents a watt. In my day, and my buddy Chris too, we would probably cut our own mother's arm off and backhand our grandmother with it to get a deal like that. LOL :D so anyway, i thought it was an interesting topic. I know we are talking RF here but now use your favorite brand and you might be talking 15-20 cents a watt. Who the hell bitches about that?

all i can say is WOW - never seen anything like this before. I am surprised he didn't break his neck. http://youtu.be/kp4fhNbFt0U

What we paid for back then was quality and would withstand the test of time compared to the offerings coming out of china. I personally prefer anymore to go and buy old school gear knowing i am getting some of the best made amplifies that hit the market then and even now, i mean if you want quality you are going to pay for it one way or another.

Wall for 4 Z's that is removable? Can't wait to see it.

I love this thread, lots of good discussions here. I did, however, want to clarify a few things; 1) As mentioned before, the Orion 2100 HCCA and XTR-2250 "Beast" were essentially the same amp with different rail voltages. People think these are "WAY" underrated and put out more at high input voltages, but unfortunately, this is just not true. These amps have regulated power supplies and based on my tests (and Car Audio & Electronics back in 1991), the big Orion's put out around 800w RMS into a resistive load at 1% THD. Back in the early 90's, 800W was a TON of power and very few amps could claim this much power (HiFonics Colossus, Rockford Power 1000 Mosfet, etc.). I wasn't able to fully test the RF 1000 mosfet, but it got to around 600x2 bridged at 4 ohms (it's a 4ch amp) before overloading my 200A strapped power supplies! 2) The Orion Concept 97.3 special edition has some crazy ratings to handle 0.00067 ohm or something like that, but is actually an XTR-2250 in a different heat sink. Yes, the 97.3, which was rated at 0.5w/ch at 4 ohms was actually a 250x2 @4ohms amp and those who tried crazy ohm loads smoked their amp back in the day. Orion basically created this amp to make a point. At the time, US Amps had the VLX series (VLX-25, 50, 400, etc) and amps like the VLX-25 was rated at 12.5w/ch at 4 ohms and would actually do over 1000w loaded down. Since Orion created the first "real" cheater amp, the 225 HCCA, they felt they could end the cheater wars also. It got them in trouble in 1997 and this 97.3 was banned from competition use. Back in the 80's and 90's, amp manufacturers would many times underrate their amps to give them an advantage in the competition classes (based on wattage ratings at 4 ohms). 3) As technology advances, prices drop. This is good and bad. I'm always impressed nowadays to see 1000w amps go for $200 or less. I paid $275 back in 1991 for a "45 watt" Rockford Punch 45HD. The big difference is this amp was made in the USA and my purchase price helped pay for the US labor. China labor is dirt cheap, not to mention most of the amps today are assembled using fully automated processes (or mostly automated). 4) Just as the previous generation and audio purists claim Class A amplifier technology sounds best, many of us prefer Class AB as opposed to Class D. There are drawbacks (efficiency, cost, total power, etc), but those who focus on SQ can get by with 1000w or less for subs. I'm not trying to start an argument about which type of amplifier is best, b/c I believe this is a personal preference and there is no "Best" design. It just depends on what you personally prefer, and if you need 5kw to power your subs, Class D is the only way to go. Great thread, Steve and for those who like Old School amps here's a few pics you might enjoy...

i have to ask this. how in the FUCK did orion manage to build an amp that was stable down to like one hundredth of an ohm?

Waivers are definitely signed

damn talk about a knock out

folks nowadays want some of that "just pour me some in my hand" prices for real wattage amps & those amps were beasts, classic amps for us I know about them I'll be 37 this year amp's are about as old as some of the members here LOL

5 tweets in EACH A-pillar huh? Please do me a favor, don't post anything more for awhile. Just sit on the side and read as much as you can on this forum. At this point Im not trying to hate, Im trying to help. It's clear you're young, and don't quite know how the world of audio works yet. Someone your age doesn't need to be trying to cram 5 6.5s in each door and 5 tweets in EACH pillar. You don't just put as many speakers just because you can. like I said, please don't post for a little while and learn a few things first.

we were all excited when we could find something for a dollar per watt. like it was fucking christmas morning. lol

$8.50 per watt? BRB, bout to go back in time and sell my bc3500's for $33,000 ea

Well I'm young and very new to the audio world so I wouldn't know about "the old days".... but I've learned.....You've gotta pay to play, haha.

I hate to be "that guy," but are there any updates Rusty?

I am just letting you know from experience and testing that a Group 31 battery that is new and costs $60 will not provide you with the power you are expecting. If it is a Group 31 battery it should weight at least in the 70lbs range. If you look at the lead prices over the last year and look at how much just the lead costs to build that battery (not taking into account the other internals, manufacturing costs, R&D costs, shipping costs, labor costs, and other costs), then it will give you an idea of what you are getting. Just something to think about. I am not saying there aren't cheaper options out there that you can go with, but in the long run you are going to pay more. You would be better off going with a Deka or Shuriken battery even, than spending your money on those batteries. Its your build and money though. Do what you think it best and what you will be happy with. Do not ever let anyone tell you what to use or how do do something in your builds! You can read and listen to people to get their opinions and experiences and then use that information to form your plan, but do not ever let anyone tell you what to use or how to do something in your build. You need to make sure you are doing what is going to make you satisfied at the end of the day!

looks good, for a prototype. We will have to get you a finished version with the front cover and and illuminated numbers... as soon as we release the higher voltage models.

I believe everything that the dude has said so far, it seems like he's just planning for a system to save up for and everyone got mad at him for I dont know why. He said he works in a machine shop from 12-10 everyday so he probably had some time to make a bracket if the machine shop is properly equipped. I think you guys have just seen too many people that ask about these big systems and never pull through but honestly why does it bother you? Like does it really affect you if they genuinely want to know what they have to save up for? If people could just tell him the info he was looking for right off the bat this thread would have passed by and he would be content but now you make fun of him because he is an aspiring highschooler and turn him away from ever asking for more info on smd. This site has an amazing knowledge base but when you come off as a jerk to new people that actually have a want to learn more it turns them away from ever asking again. Oh and dd9515 king like everyone else said 22 d3100s is overkill and you should look into something like 4-5 d7500s

Im gonna meter my farts when I get home. I bet it hits a 100db if I meter at the taint /sphincter, leg up outlaw style.

Will, I give you huge props on that enclosure. It looks super clean, and I bet it sounds even better. I'm not sure how far South in Georgia you are, but do you ever come down to Tallahassee? I'd love to get a demo of your rig and talk audio with ya; I follow your builds pretty religiously.

Time to add some T-nuts for the sub and threaded inserts for the plexi glass window. Its always good to have a template laying around! T-Nuts and Stainless Button Head screws will do the job 1x1 strips an extra 1" frame around the back panel for extra support and also a nice landing for the weather stripping i am using to seal it off. more support for the roof of the box. It should help make it even more rigid. This will all be glassed in as well for even more strength. Rounded over of course

before you tell me the woofer is off-center, let me tell you that i did that on purpose. Due to the way the trunk is and where the baffle meets the metal behind the seat, i needed to raise it as high as i could. Also, with that angle, i needed to make sure the magnet wasnt going to hit the bottom of the box. I will cut JUST enough metal to let the port and woofer breath into the cabin. Then i will seal the cabin from the front of the baffle........BASSSSSS!!!!

Mr.Meade your email was received and I'm honored you would take on the job.I had to wait 13 months for WEAPON X to be done so i have no problem getting in line.