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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/26/15 in all areas

  1. 21 points
    Possibly.I'll guinea pig that idea (since im doing a blowthrough with pvc ports enetering the cab soon) if you guys send me some to try out Never hurts to ask...and you are in luck today!!!! PM me your address I will send you out a test roll tomorrow as long as you send us pics of the project you work on it with. Second Skin For The Win!!!
  2. 15 points
    At :23 Kev sees "someone" with a camera At :24 Kev looks down like "meh" thinking it's just another onlooker, I'm kind of a big deal so I will just act like it doesn't phase me At :25 Oh, I know you At :26 OH SHIT IT'S STEVE MEADE!!! LOL, priceless.
  3. 11 points
    The ridges of the pulley are all the same from one vehicle to another, its fairly standardized. Belts are not made to be used on specific vehicles, they are made to specific lengths. The wider pulley on the new alt vs the old alt is also no issue. It is like that because that pulley is used on multiple style alternators. Having no belt on the additional pulley will change nothing, if its not slipping its not slipping. Now if your car is using a V-groove style belt and your alternator has the standard serpentine ribs you may have an issue, but thats not the case here. 3k engine rpms are getting rather high by a lot, over revving of an alternator can reduce output drastically and cause premature failure after extended abuse. Typically 2k engine rpms is what aftermarket alts are built around for full output Your alternator is being gimped by your CCA wire that is meant to carry 200ish amps safely, even though at 200 amps your wire is getting warmer which is increasing the resistance resulting in less current flow from front to back Just roughly under load your seeing about a 15.86% drop in voltage, and this is being figured with a 400amp load which is what Synergy recommends for fusing 2 amps strapped at 2ohms. But your wired at 1 ohm strapped (.5 per amp) so Im guessing max current draw from your amps full tilt is around 500-550 amps for the pair. So now doing the math for the amount of current I suspect your amps are pulling full titl which I think is in the 500 amp range for the pair. Starting voltage 14.8, load of 500 amps comes out to be about 12.48volts (2.32volts dropped) which is 15.86% from starting voltage.... Fairly close to what you said with your voltage You are really stressing that 1 run of CCA wire.... Now if you added 3 more additional 1/0 CCA wires from the alternator to the rear batteries things would improve a bit. So these numbers are for 4 total runs of positive CCA wire. Starting voltage 14.8, load of 500 amps comes out to be about 14.22volts (0.58volts dropped) which is 3.92% from starting voltage. Ideally id suggest 2 runs of OFC from alternator to the back batteries for power, and possibly a ground from alt case to back batteries as well. Even if you where to clamp the alternators output it as your wiring is right now you wouldn't have anything near legit results due to the 1 run of CCA wire you are using and how poorly it is performing as I just showed you above. Now my numbers are not dead on accurate since there are unknowns to me like the current draw, but I think Im pretty damn close on that. You can send me a thank you payment via paypal for the assistance.
  4. 11 points
    This guy is full of shit and enjoying lying to everyone commenting in this thread. Hence no pictures, etc
  5. 11 points
    my old friend Mike from Santo's Toy Shop (STS) stopped by today and brought over his RHD '72 Celica. The Celica is a staple of my neighborhood and if you didn't have one of those as a first car, you had a Datsun 510. I truly have love for these cars as my first were also Toyota Celicas (had a 75 and a 74). The difference back then though was i didn't have any money to do it RIGHT. This is how it looks when you are grown folks and you can actually do everything they way it is supposed to be done! Everything here was done right all the way to the custom but STILL classic wheels. He had the faces removed and re-barreled onto a 15" wheel rather than the stock 13 (iirc). So sick! His website is http://www.santostoyshop.com if you want to see what else he has up his sleeve.
  6. 9 points
    Possibly the oldest amplifier ever tested on the Amp Dyno, here I try the 33yr old 1983 HiFonics Odin! Call me crazy, but back in 1983, most people who used amplifiers in their cars had EQ/Boosters in their dash. You were the mack daddy if you had an external amplifier back then! Let's see if this bad boy can survive the brutal Amp Dyno Tests! It's a stereo amp, not bridgeable and only stable down to 4 ohms. Rated to deliver: 35w/ch at 8 ohms 65w/ch at 4 ohms Check it out on YouTube in 1080P HD or embedded below:
  7. 9 points
    im just here for the learning experience
  8. 9 points
    After having my tahoe for 12 years, i finally got a new car!! SO DAMN HAPPPPPPY. Its a 2012 Nissan 370z with 49k on the odometer. Car is amazing and im in love! 1 owner car, and other then a few scratches, body is pristine. I still have the tahoe and will never get rid of it as its always good to have a 2nd backup car or when the weather is shitty, ill drive the tahoe and leave the 370z in the garage Car is faster then i ever imagined, and the best part is i searched everywhere for a 6 speed manual, and she is a 6 speed manual!!!!
  9. 9 points
  10. 9 points
    This thing looks, sounds and feels like a Category 5 Hurricane....so i named the video that LOL 8 #Sundown Audio 18" Subwoofers, 4 Sundown NS1 amps - E-40​ "707" Slowed reaching the depths of hell in Kevs van
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