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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/28/23 in all areas

  1. getting close to having the wall done and wired up on 5 of the small amps( swaping to 5x 2500w rms amps in the near future , still need to seal it to the b pillars and other work but i got plenty of time before the next comp
    3 points
  2. progress is slow but i got the port cut and in today for testing and 3 out of the 5 sub amps installed its enough for some low power testing /checking making sure the enclosure doesnt have anything loose etc hopefully ill have enough time this weekend to get all 5 wired up and playing
    3 points
  3. Lexus ISF on NOS cold start 🥶 and rev (5.0 V8) ISS Forged SS exhaust
    2 points
  4. Sundown Audio X8 v.4 8” Subwoofer is a legit BEAST (SMD flash giveaway!)
    2 points
  5. closer , waiting ont he first 2 baffle layers to dry and then i can glue this one to those and install it for real
    2 points
  6. getting the inner shell done tonight
    2 points
  7. Crazy Hair Raising BASS! Slam Halen Mazda truck 18kw System 6 12" Subs Bandpass Blow-Thru (Finished)
    2 points
  8. figured id share my build this is my first build on over 20 years , my last build was 2x alumapro bp-12's built into the cabin of a 89 camaro, this build specs out as follows 4x sundown audio e8 v6's built my own 3.6 net cf slot ported box tuned to 34 hz the front doors each are getting 1x 8 inch dayton audio midbass , and 2x 6.5" recoil midranges along with the same in the rear doors for all the amps im originally wanted to run 2x jp23's and 2x jp34ab's but i ended up deciding to run 4x recoil audio red 1200.1 for the subs ( 1 amp for each sub at 1 ohm ) and 2x recoil audio rea 600.4 ab amps for the mids and highs unfortunately for me the biggest alt i can find for this car atm is a 250amp so im going to have to figure something out here more then likley building a bracket to mount a second alt im also building a 96ah headway bank 4 runs of 1/0 from front to back due to it being winter progress is slow even though i have most of the pieces needed to get this together first things to get done will be the alt and running all of the 1/0 runs as of right now i put the raw box in the car and im running it on a single red1200.1 and i must say i am very pleased with it on the single amp and i also got the front door baffles made and screwed to the panels but they need all the fiberglass work done which i cant do till it warms up for right now i have some pyle 6.5's in the doors that were given to me for free and the dayton 8's the amp rack itself is being built inplace of the rear seat bottoms anyways heres a few pics for the time being the one video is just them on a 60x2 amp i had laying around
    2 points
  9. Who remembers when I use to post my "REALTIME" videos? Well they are coming back
    2 points
  10. recoil has new amps coming amp ill be getting 3x of the 2500's to replace the 1200's , i also did start to deaden the doors got the driver side door outer skin done today , hoping to get one door done each day , i think im going to get some 150 mil stuff to do the inner panel with instead of using the 394mil stuff on that as well
    2 points
  11. You do subs up in hatchbacks, vans and SUV for example but in trunk cars doing subs up would rattle the trunk lid bad and that rattling is difficult or impossible to stop even after applying deadening so generally not recommended. You can try to use the box with subs firing forward or back, firing back is usually louder. Any other questions let me know.
    2 points
  12. Good lord Dude... That's like.... Double what I get. And I'm bottlenecked by my 5950x. Hot damn dude
    2 points
  13. Swapped McLaren mlt5s for PRV TW450S and added a 2nd tweet set ...doors will get finished eventually lol
    2 points
  14. SPRING SALE 2024 15% OFF Use Code SPRING15 www.secondskinaudio.com
    1 point
  15. Sorry I've been MIA. As for the 74AH pro I'm not sure you should get it. I'm second guessing my purchase already and I cant send it back. I'm still going to try and use it but i wish I would have done more research. Apparently these cells have a really narrow voltage range. It might work for me but I'm still a ways off from testing them out. ----------------UPDATE 2/25/24--------- I decided to revamp my system entirely. I sold everything from my old car except 2 SA x-8's, my SIA2500.1d, and my wiring. I got rid of my Infinity Kappa 3-ways and purchased Infinity Kappa Perfect 3-ways. The new setup is as follows Helix M Four DSP running my tweets and Midrange 2 Sound Digital 800.4's running my midbass, center channel, and rear speakers SIA2500.1d running 2 SA X-8v.4's - 2ohm's @ 2000watts - Also contemplating building a T-line enclosure for these Also I decided to do custom a-pillars. So on with that! These are my Infinity Kappa 300m midranges all taped up and ready to be trimmed. The two things i dislike about these are that the mounting tabs add an inch of width and they don't come with grills. Gonna have to fix that. Left one trimmed, on the right you can see the problem. These are some funky a pillar pods I found on amazon. I'll still need to do some fiberglassing and trimming once my second set of a-pillars come in. Not gonna modify the originals. Thank you skar audio for the sacrificial grill Fit's but is not done. This is a tinner's hammer hammer. Time to shape some metal Not perfect but you can see what I'm going for. A can of zyn fit's nicely to help with the shaping Also had some steel round mesh from another project So I decided to try that as well Side - by - side of the two grill options Now for the tweeters. The flush mounts we too big so originally I was going to use these. But it looks hideous and bug-eyed. So I trimmed one of the flush-mounts to fit. And ditched the black grill. The steel looks better imo, especially when matching the tweeter. There's still a lot I need to do to these. Currently the grill is sitting on the midrange surround so I need to fix that, and the pods still need to be fiber glassed to the a-pillars and covered with some kid of material. But that is for another day.
    1 point
  16. I am installing a new stand alone audio system in my Lexus LS430. The Mark Levinson system will not be used anymore. All alterations are reversible. I am using the Kenwood XXV-01D 25th anniversary headunit. The control panel is installed in the ceiling area, the radio itself in the glove compartment. I have extended the flat cable to seperate the panel and the radio. I have drawn a new enclosure for the control panel which is located in the area where you normally store a pair of sunglasses. The glass break sensors and the button to switch these on or off are implemented in the housing.
    1 point
  17. Subs get stinky when they had enough power, but I wouldn't try that method on type rs, that is a method more adequate for SPL drivers. BTW make very sure you entered valid data to WinISD or you may be led to the wrong conclusions.
    1 point
  18. You just need to make sure your subs do not go over Xmax at the operating power, but since your amplifier exceeds by far the RMS of your subs you will have to be very careful not going too far, generally oversized enclosures and sub overpowering in a hazardous mix with a very likely outcome of subs mechanical damage so you need to set the gain of the amp not to the clipping point but rather lesser that the subs can can tolerate. You can find maximum power in a similar way as before, in WinISD up power until Xmax is reached in the enclosure size you chose and you can clamp the amp to roughly reach that power and set gains accordingly so you can't go over the limit on normal use.
    1 point
  19. The new swr 12d4 will work on smaller boxes than previous versions, to determine the volume to use enter both the old and new models in winISD and change the volume of the new version to approximately match the curve the 2.1 cubes plot of the old one you have and use the same port area you had in your old box. Of course you need to check the excursion plot at the power you intend to use your new subs to be within Xmax, now you can build to the specs you just obtained.
    1 point
  20. Haven't been here in a minute. I hope everyone is doing well and having a great start to the new year!
    1 point
  21. Swapped it without losing a single piece of resolution, thank you so much!!!
    1 point
  22. You need your new equipment professionally installed, that includes new wiring, battery, setting your gains correctly and such. Talking over the internet looks like is not going to be helpful in your case. You need a person who is properly trained and has the tools to help you.
    1 point
  23. Correct. The reason for so many is due to some people using multiple runs of power wire from the front of the vehicle to the back. In my truck for example I have 9 positive runs of 1/0 and 9 negative runs of 1/0 (18 total) coming from my 3 alts under the hood to the back batteries. So when people have larger systems with over 1600amps worth of alternator charging, multiple 5,000+ watt rms amps, etc one single run of 1/0 or even 4/0 coming from under the hood simply cant handle the current load. Now take into consideration of the length of said wire which reduces its current rating, resistance and voltage drop in the wire, hell even if you're pulling the maximum current limit from whatever wire you're running your going to have to factor in heat and even more resistance. So that is why there's multiple spots for additional wires to be connected so you can adapt to your needs and overcome obstacles and restrictions in the wire. Hopefully that helps.
    1 point
  24. How much power are you looking for? Look up CT Sounds. They typically have sales/discounts running and amps are proven to do rated power as well as being great value.
    1 point
  25. I just built my last rig not to long ago and I am already at it again. The reason I chose the parts for the last build was due to not having a mainboard that could support my new 5gig Fiber internet. There wasn't many boards in the latest gen at the time that had what I needed. You can see that build here **** This link below is the OLD 11th Gen build that is now my VR rig, you can see the NEW 14th gen if you keep scrolling**** While that build worked GREAT, I also have another issue. I have a Valve Index VR setup. My main PC runs 3 monitors and every time I want to use VR I have to unplug display ports and restart the PC. When I am done I have to plug it all back in and restart the PC again. And then after that I have to reset my monitor configuration because it flips out when I start making changes like that. Easy to put back, but a pain none the less. I just want to pick the headset up and use it without all that drama. So I decided I wanted a PC dedicated JUST for my VR. My first choice was a gaming laptop. I have one I use all the time that has an RTX 2070 in it. I plugged it in and it works pretty good (for VR). The only problem is for fast games like VR racing, it is pretty weak. Not anywhere near the quality of my PC. So I decided to build another gaming rig instead that I can dedicate to that. While trying to figure out what I was going to use for the build, I decided that my "old" rig from March (2023) with the 11th gen could be the perfect tower instead and I can build a NEW NEW for my main rig instead. I also have a spare RTX 3090 not being used that I spent $2500 on during covid lockdown. So my VR PC will be my "old" PC with a 3090 in it and I will take my 4090 and put it in the new rig since it is still the latest card. A little confusing but it might make sense by the time I am done with both of them. New build: CORSAIR iCUE 7000X RGB Full-Tower ATX MSI Meg Z790 Godlike Max Motherboard EVGA Supernova 1600 P+, 80+ Platinum 1600W PS Intel Core i9 14900k Corsair H150i Elite Capellix Liquid Cpu cooler 128G Corsair Vengeance DDR5 Asus ROG Strix RTX 4090 OC Edition GPU Samsung 990 Pro m.2 2TB (main) Samsung 990 Pro m.2 2TB Samsung 990 Pro m.2 2TB (3) Alienware 38" 3840x1600 @ 144hz 1ms (in Surround mode @ 11520x1600) I g
    1 point
  26. Pride Audio 15” Sub Flex 🔊 10hz 5,000 watts ⚡️sends amp into protect (slo mo)
    1 point
  27. Alright now for the fun stuff. For subs I'm going with 2 Sundown audio x-8v.4's. Why? because 8's are Rad, and I'm trying to keep my care as usable as possible. But also because it's different. The original plan was 3 but I was having difficulty making a box for three that would work within my size constraints and the SA 2500.1 D would struggle to run 3. Maybe down the line I'll go for broke and run 4 off of a beefy 4k for shits and giggles, but most likely I'll sell off the extra 8. The Box that the subs are sitting on is a CT Sounds dual 8 enclosure with 3/4 MDF, a kerf port tuned to 39hz, and abou .81cu ft per woofer. It's on the smaller side but it was cheap and I figured it would be good to compare against a future box with a full 1cu ft per woofer and 32hz tuning. But first, I needed to fix a few things. These Cup terminals. Known for being leaky, So lets fix that. This is some Second Skin Butyl Rope that I had leftover from my last build. This stuff rocks. It's especially good at silencing license plates. This worked for me before with a sealed enclosure, just gotta really work it into the cracks. Next I put some ferrules on the wires because ferrules are awesome And Last I used a little Tessa tape (Fabric Tape) just to make sure the wires don't rattle against the box. And that's pretty much where I have to stop, at least until I gut my other car, and start building an amp/battery Rack.
    1 point
  28. Looks solid! ------------------- I think you're on the right track using tinned OFC for exterior wire, but saving a few bucks using raw OFC for interior. Nothing wrong there. Nice to see another hydraulic crimper user. Only thing I'd add is to mind the lugs you use. Closed ended, tinned copper lugs are the way to go. Solder and crimp lugs are quite different! For heat shrink on exterior wiring: Make sure ya grab adhesive lined. Or, if that's not in the cards for one reason or another, you can get away by putting a thin layer of high temp hot glue over the area, then putting the heat shrink over that and warming until the glue melts and oozes out. Not as cheesy as it sounds, that's all the weather-sealed heat shrink is - just pre-applied for ease of use. I'd also get some wiring loom to add some protection to the cable. Bumps and abrasion can take their toll over the years. Get the woven variety - less apt to trap and hold moisture than the plastic corrugated stuff. ------------------- Other notes: - Don't forget the grommet when passing wires into the vehicle. Butyl putty is awesome for sealing stuff up and excluding salt/moisture long-term. It doesn't cure - stays soft like chewing gum. - Can also consider a pass-thru bulkhead if that's up your alley - Alternator wise, mechman, singer are the favorites. I've used DC power and been happy but that was many years ago. Not sure where they stand now
    1 point
  29. got the excess cut fromt he corners and had to call it a night ran out of daylight , i have 2 panels to install in the top of the box tommorow morning and then i can work on fiberglassing and sealing the inside before i put the outser layers on
    1 point
  30. You are running 1300W of power in your audio, no need for any other electrical upgrades if just playing music, No need to be checking your voltage unless something in your car is not working properly, the amps will work just fine in the 12-14V range no problem. If you are just curious as to why the voltage is being regulated the way it does, just have your electrical checked and then ask your concerns, to me, if your car works fine and your audio works fine I would just leave it alone.
    1 point
  31. Usually the negative speaker wire output is fine to use, however on some amps if it don't work then the negative battery terminal will work as well. Most amps the negative speaker terminal and the negative battery terminal are tied together, but thats not always the case and thats really the only time you need to use the negative terminal or vice versa.
    1 point
  32. Trinity Audio H Series 15” Sub 🔊 pushed hard! Woofer Flex inside 👈🏽
    1 point
  33. Not sure the chambers are of different sizes but even if they were with sealed there is no much difference in performance for normal to larger than normal internal volumes, say 1 cubic feet and 1.2 cubic feet will sound largely the same. If those subs are the lanzar st max12s those may play better in ported box rather than sealed. To answer your question it's better to cut a circle in the dividers rather than take them out to preserve the box strength.
    1 point
  34. Passive crossovers are custom to the drivers they come with, both crossover points and attenuation levels need to match the drivers being used. Wish you luck getting that sounding right.
    1 point
  35. So bear with me as this may get a bit long. The first step is the box, you have a big rectangle port fully internal BUT then looking at the pic you have a fully external port that is clearly smaller that I imagine goes through the ski hole and that has a different (smaller) port area and port length that you don't specify. To match your box specs you should only have a fully internal port 56 square inches in area and 16 in length. That external extension lowers the overall tuning and also reduces the port area significantly.
    1 point
  36. The low end solution is using a couple of Y adapters to connect to the 4 channel amp to the head unit but you wouldn't have fader control so the best solution is what you have picked and will work with your head unit no problem. The high end solution is getting a DSP but honestly for an entry level system that solution is probably not worth it.
    1 point
  37. "DOWN graded" cpu lol..... Ive never seen FPS like this since i started this shit..... Good god. Also, while pulling dick for power, and staying cool as shit. So far, so rad.
    1 point
  38. started mocking up my amp rack , this rack has 3 layers what u see is the middle layer , the bottom layer will have all the power/ground wires distro , basically all the wiring , the wiring will come up threw the layer u see directly into the amps. and then the middle layer is getting 4 inch high sides all around so i can put a lid on it , the lid is going to have a 18 x 48 " piece of 1/4 lexan in it so u can see all the amps , all in total there will be 6 amps across that rack 4x 1500w monos and 2x 4 chan amps , i jhad to wrap it up for the day so i just wired all that stuff up so i could still have my music when going back and forth to work for the time being prolly be another 2 weeks before i have enough time off to work on it again
    1 point
  39. I went with UL listed welding cable. There is a reason for Under writers laboratory certification. UL does a lot of testing on all aspects of the wire from the copper content to the jacket material. It is not cheap to get a product certified. It is also not cheap to keep the certification on that product. In this day and age of everything being fake and copied does anybody really believe that the wire is OFC just because it says it on the wire or the company claims it is. Do you really think the wire did not come from China and that the Chinese are honest and would never use sub par material for their products. A lot of fake Chinese products say UL approved on them. The issue is they never sent in the product to be tested. There will always be an approval number associated with the product. This number can be looked up in the UL online database. Take some time to read up on UL wire testing. It will open your eyes to see why and how it is done. The last time I checked I did not see any UL/ CE certification for Sky high or Knuconceptz wire. I am not saying car audio power wire it is bad wire. I know a lot of people use non UL listed wire without issues. Wire is expensive. I spent over $1k for power wire. I have assurances that the wire is 100% OFC copper, and that the Jacket material was made using the correct rubber for its application. Of course this is my opinion. Buy what you like and can afford.
    1 point
  40. No, I didn't miss word it. I was just wrong. Thank you for the clarification. I thought it measured both. I must admit, I only skimmed through the manual lol.
    1 point
  41. Yes, you can and should use the DD-1 on your DSP as well. Treat your DSP as a headunit, use the 0db tone and the appropriate tone for the appropriate channel outputs (IE, 1khz for front/rear dedicated dsp outputs, and 40hz for dedicated sub outputs on your dsp), this way you have the maximum clean a/c voltage output from your DSP. Also make sure all EQs on the DSP are flat when doing this as well! Now the one thing to be careful of is the a/c voltage output, you don't want to set it higher than your amps inputs can handle, so after tuning with the DD-1 you may want to check the rca a/c voltage output of the DSP because the DSP can and will take your 4v rca signal and turn it into 6-9+ volts output. So if your amps can only handle a 5volt input then you will want to back the voltage down some on the DSP, and then go and match voltage for each output. Then use the DD-1 on your amplifiers using the appropriate tones with your desired gain overlap setting (-5db, -10db, etc). I think my Audison Bitone DSP was putting out 11.7 volts clean when tuned with my DD-1 but I backed all the levels down to 4.5volts that I verified with my multimeter and then I have my amp gains up about 1/8, its very very little.
    1 point
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