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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/19/23 in all areas

  1. getting close to having the wall done and wired up on 5 of the small amps( swaping to 5x 2500w rms amps in the near future , still need to seal it to the b pillars and other work but i got plenty of time before the next comp
    3 points
  2. progress is slow but i got the port cut and in today for testing and 3 out of the 5 sub amps installed its enough for some low power testing /checking making sure the enclosure doesnt have anything loose etc hopefully ill have enough time this weekend to get all 5 wired up and playing
    3 points
  3. Lexus ISF on NOS cold start 🥶 and rev (5.0 V8) ISS Forged SS exhaust
    2 points
  4. Sundown Audio X8 v.4 8” Subwoofer is a legit BEAST (SMD flash giveaway!)
    2 points
  5. closer , waiting ont he first 2 baffle layers to dry and then i can glue this one to those and install it for real
    2 points
  6. getting the inner shell done tonight
    2 points
  7. Crazy Hair Raising BASS! Slam Halen Mazda truck 18kw System 6 12" Subs Bandpass Blow-Thru (Finished)
    2 points
  8. figured id share my build this is my first build on over 20 years , my last build was 2x alumapro bp-12's built into the cabin of a 89 camaro, this build specs out as follows 4x sundown audio e8 v6's built my own 3.6 net cf slot ported box tuned to 34 hz the front doors each are getting 1x 8 inch dayton audio midbass , and 2x 6.5" recoil midranges along with the same in the rear doors for all the amps im originally wanted to run 2x jp23's and 2x jp34ab's but i ended up deciding to run 4x recoil audio red 1200.1 for the subs ( 1 amp for each sub at 1 ohm ) and 2x recoil audio rea 600.4 ab amps for the mids and highs unfortunately for me the biggest alt i can find for this car atm is a 250amp so im going to have to figure something out here more then likley building a bracket to mount a second alt im also building a 96ah headway bank 4 runs of 1/0 from front to back due to it being winter progress is slow even though i have most of the pieces needed to get this together first things to get done will be the alt and running all of the 1/0 runs as of right now i put the raw box in the car and im running it on a single red1200.1 and i must say i am very pleased with it on the single amp and i also got the front door baffles made and screwed to the panels but they need all the fiberglass work done which i cant do till it warms up for right now i have some pyle 6.5's in the doors that were given to me for free and the dayton 8's the amp rack itself is being built inplace of the rear seat bottoms anyways heres a few pics for the time being the one video is just them on a 60x2 amp i had laying around
    2 points
  9. Who remembers when I use to post my "REALTIME" videos? Well they are coming back
    2 points
  10. recoil has new amps coming amp ill be getting 3x of the 2500's to replace the 1200's , i also did start to deaden the doors got the driver side door outer skin done today , hoping to get one door done each day , i think im going to get some 150 mil stuff to do the inner panel with instead of using the 394mil stuff on that as well
    2 points
  11. You do subs up in hatchbacks, vans and SUV for example but in trunk cars doing subs up would rattle the trunk lid bad and that rattling is difficult or impossible to stop even after applying deadening so generally not recommended. You can try to use the box with subs firing forward or back, firing back is usually louder. Any other questions let me know.
    2 points
  12. Good lord Dude... That's like.... Double what I get. And I'm bottlenecked by my 5950x. Hot damn dude
    2 points
  13. Swapped McLaren mlt5s for PRV TW450S and added a 2nd tweet set ...doors will get finished eventually lol
    2 points
  14. Who cares if you “need” 5gig. You want it you get it. I’d shank my mother for that kind of infrastructure.
    2 points
  15. Like is stated in the video, I have spent the last two years since we moved into this house with the worst internet options known to man. We live in a forest somewhere in the Sierra Nevada's between Sacramento and Reno. I never thought internet could be as bad as it was. I got by with the local provider who climbs up a tree and aims an antenna at the nearest tower and then charges you an arm and two legs for service. That was $100 a month for my plan and with overages they were trying to charge me upwards of $400 a month! For service that wasn't worth a damn at 15 down and about 3-5 up. HORRIBLE. Then I got a business hotspot plan from ATT. That cost me $200 a month and was doing about 30-45 down and about 8-10 up. I added a Waveform flat panel external antenna and was able to get about 100 down and 28-30 up. Not to bad. I can survive on that. I had the entire house running on it through a very expensive mesh network. It was really the only choice. I was able to game on it no problem and youtube video uploads weren't too painful. Then i tried Nomad internet, another 4g LTE based service that hit off the Verizon towers. It cost $150 a month. It did about 30-40 down and about 15-20 up on it's best day. It was spurratic at best. No way i could game on it and uploading videos to the internet was hit or miss. Terrible. I got rid of that after about 6 months and tried a T-Mobile 5g service with the thinking i would maybe hit a T-Mobile tower and it could be better. I saw 60-75 down and 15-20 up. But again, it was unreliable as i couldn't upload very well and gaming sucked on it. For just $50 bucks a month, i kept it acive for an emergency backup. A few months later my Starlink arrived after waiting for a year and a half (we ordered it summer 2021 and were on a waiting list). That costs $110 a month and just now going up to $120 a month. It did ok at 100-150 down and around 12-15 up. We mainly used it for the entire house (i put it on my mesh network) and kept the ATT Hotspot (a Nighthawk M5) dedicated to my office. That was how we did it for several more months and it worked pretty good. But I was still paying $120 for starlink, $200 for ATT (business hotspot), and $50 for T-mobile (as a backup). That is a wopping $370 a month for total crap! Then one day, the sky opened up and the gods handed down Frontier Fiber internet to my neighborhood in the woods. Of course, when i saw 5000 up and 5000 down for $154 a month (and several other amazing teirs for even cheaper), i pulled the trigger and said let's go!! I cancelled all the other stuff and i am saving a ton of money. Maybe i don't need 5000/5000 but dammit, I am so excited to finally have REAL internet at my house I don't care! Give me ALL the bits! As you can also see in the video, i had to make some changes to my PC in order to achieve these speeds. Most PC's aren't capable of doing more than 1000/1000 and that includes my beast gaming rig with an MSI Godlike board. So if you do the same as me, be warned, anyting over 1000/1000 might not be achievable until you make changes. Typically the 5000/5000 is shared in the entire house so my PC doesn't NEED to have those speed all to itself. But I am on a mission to see those numbers with my own eyes. So i build a new one with a 10g ethernet port. The results were pretty good i would say!
    2 points
  16. I did not go the LOC route. I have a helix Dsp with high level input. And yes that was the only issue I had. We even adjusted the internal resistance of the DSP. Otherwise it would have been perfect im definitely lucky on having an easier time to get an aftermarket headunit with trim plate
    1 point
  17. Made some upgrades to the ebike https://i.imgur.com/ZoNrhEy.mp4
    1 point
  18. Absurd Sound System Power Wiring ⚡️ pt.1 multiple 2/0 (double zero) cable runs under the Tahoe
    1 point
  19. The new swr 12d4 will work on smaller boxes than previous versions, to determine the volume to use enter both the old and new models in winISD and change the volume of the new version to approximately match the curve the 2.1 cubes plot of the old one you have and use the same port area you had in your old box. Of course you need to check the excursion plot at the power you intend to use your new subs to be within Xmax, now you can build to the specs you just obtained.
    1 point
  20. Bumping up this oldie but goodie here. So for the past 2 years or so I've been using this same T-Line box with this same now 14 year old Subwoofer from the now defunked company in my home theater build. I'm getting ready to build a second one as I have a still never used eD 13kv.4 subwoofer that I'm gonna use to have a dual 12 subwoofer setup in my theater room. If anyone is interested in seeing said theater room I have linked it over from my Reddit page here: Reddit Theater Page
    1 point
  21. You can forget about impedance rise, as long as you are not a competitor or you are not fine tuning an exotic type of enclosure, you just need to have a good working electrical system that is in the level of the amp you are using, good wiring correctly installed, a good amp that does the power it claims, and proper gain settings procedures, it is worth learning about that as well as owning a cheap little scope or a DD-1, if you can source 2K to your subs you will see a big jump in output and you will be pretty satisfied with the results.
    1 point
  22. Bucket O’ Bass 🔊 12” Pyle Sub 😂
    1 point
  23. Jesus my guy. Come play some warzone with me. Edit- my next buy is a 240 (plus) Hz oled. Maybe the Rog rig. Not sure. May wait a tick. Monitors are just getting sooooo good. But, i want a rad oled thats wicked fast. Just 2 g7 240hz (27 and 32 inch) here. I want a nice oled.
    1 point
  24. Tremendous BASS bailout 🔊🔊 Girlfriend has left the chat
    1 point
  25. You can wire the second battery in parallel to the existing battery. The main concern typically is the difference in battery technology (lead acid as OEM and AGM for aftermarket). In reality, there isnt anything special you need in between the stock battery and the new AGM. The only suggestion I would make is in a few years when the stock fails (due to age and use), to replace it with a like in kind battery to the AGM. Your battery wont get "too much charge". Alternators only output to what they are asked. If you arent blasting music, they will have a low output to supply the bare minimum the car is asking for (A/C, lights, radio, etc.) and when you crank the volume it will output more as it sees a larger "load" and output as much as it can up to 220a to do whatever it can to try to maintain good voltage.
    1 point
  26. First time posting here! Just wanted to say hello to everyone! Most of all, I want to give a shoutout to Steve Meade & his crew! They are a great group of people!
    1 point
  27. Post pics and specs (box specs, amp, electrical, etc) of your previous setup, Sure enough the X subs are for the lows and not SPL but two 18s (if properly setup) should not be so disappointing unless the box is wrong or the subs are not driven properly.
    1 point
  28. Sure you can do that for some moderate improvement, larger improvements involve greater cone area like for example doing 2 15s, if doing a larger than recommended box and tuning higher requires you setting up your subsonic filter higher to prevent sub bottoming out.
    1 point
  29. You are running 1300W of power in your audio, no need for any other electrical upgrades if just playing music, No need to be checking your voltage unless something in your car is not working properly, the amps will work just fine in the 12-14V range no problem. If you are just curious as to why the voltage is being regulated the way it does, just have your electrical checked and then ask your concerns, to me, if your car works fine and your audio works fine I would just leave it alone.
    1 point
  30. Usually the negative speaker wire output is fine to use, however on some amps if it don't work then the negative battery terminal will work as well. Most amps the negative speaker terminal and the negative battery terminal are tied together, but thats not always the case and thats really the only time you need to use the negative terminal or vice versa.
    1 point
  31. i have a Alpine 9887 and a scope, the RCA outs dont clip at full volume. the internal amp clips at volume 21 out of 35
    1 point
  32. WHATS UP EVERYONE NEW MEMBER HERE. IM JOING THE FORUM TO DOCUMENT MY BUILD AND FOR ANY HELP AND/OR TIPS ANYONE CAN GIVE ME AS THIS IS MY FIRST "OFFICIAL" BUILD. REALLY AIMING FOR SQ I THINK ON THIS NOT REALLY SURE SINCE EL CAMINOS ARE SO COMPACT ON THE INSIDE ANY SUB WILL SOUND GREAT AND LOUD AS HELL LOL. BEFORE REDOING THE SYSTEM I HAD 2 3.5 speakers in the dash, 2 tweeters on the A pillars and a 12in p2 behind the seat. NOW IM LOOKING TO DO IT RIGHT SO BELOW IS EVERYTHING IM PLANNING ON RUNNING. SO FAR THE ONLY THING I HAVEN'T DECIDED ON IS THE NEW AMP FOR MY SUBS AND THE MIDS THAT I'LL BE RUNNING IN MY DASH ANY SUGGESTIONS ARE GREATLY APPRECIATED. A Pillar: 2 - tweeters from morel maximo comp set (ran active) DASH: 2 - 3.5in Speakers Mid (Ran Active) DOOR PANELS(ea.): 2 Morel Maximo 6 comp Ran active (only will use one set of tweeters which will be Ran to the A Pillars) Subwoofers: 2 Alpine S-W10d4 DSP: Dayton Audio DSP AMPS: Dash and Tweeters: 4/2 channel Undecided Door Panels: Pioneer Gm-Dx874 1200w 4ch I WILL RUN ALL THE DOOR SPEAKERS AS 4ohm unless it's convenient to wire them parallel and run them as 2ohm saving me two channels to use for the dash and only needing a compact 2ch for my tweeters SUBWOOFER: Rockford Fosgate 5001xd AS OF RIGHT NOW ILL RUN THEM IN PARALLEL SO THAT ITS 2ohm AND GETTING 600 RMS BUT THATS REALLY UNDERPOWERING IT IMO. LOOKING FOR A A MONO BLOCK THATS ABOUT A 1000watt rms Also here's a link to the box i made online im thinking of building as is fits right into the Elcos smuggler box. Is it a good design? thinking of making a new one but the design won't have the sub facing the back of the seat they'll be facing into the smuggler box and im unsure how that will sound and play into effect because i'm planing on having one of these boxes on each side of the smuggler box in the corner (for sq). https://subbox.pro/en/b/4tisUQAUi
    1 point
  33. I think these subwoofers would be a good option: Sundown Audio SA-10 D4 Rev.3 Rockford Fosgate P3D4-10 Kicker 43CWR104
    1 point
  34. See how it goes, if you have any other questions let us know.
    1 point
  35. Mystery fraud return box 📦 lets open it! who wants it? (flash giveaway)
    1 point
  36. https://fixmyspeaker.com/ is one of them. But it can be expensive, subs will likely not sound the same and your rebuild job may not turn out that great much better is to get new better subs.
    1 point
  37. Here is a second suggestion, this one can be used with the sub mounted normal: Note: H needs to be 14" for proper pole vent clearance.
    1 point
  38. This should work BUT sub must be reverse mounted:
    1 point
  39. Your alternator capacity seems to me fine for the job, if you mainly play with your car on you should have no problems, if you spend a lot of time playing with your car off then you could probably consider a second battery. I guess the best way to determine if you should upgrade is use your system for a few weeks and see if your battery is holding up well and then decide what to do from there.
    1 point
  40. I'm sorry, I was talking about the voltage controller on my truck. Not external. But you've already helped me. I was talking to you through email yesterday. Thanks again! I really appreciate it!
    1 point
  41. I'm still alive...... and still an asshole!
    1 point
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