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  1. Once you go DSP you never go back!
    2 points
  2. An amp that makes 2,000watts rms at 1 ohm would be fine, it will be crucial to have the gain set properly so that it is matched to the radios rca preout voltage, after all the gain is NOT a volume knob (this goes for any amp). Over powering a speaker with more than its rated rms power typically never hurts anything as long as the gain is set correctly and you have your crossovers set correctly, and not being stupid when it comes to listening to the stereo, the woofers will start to stink a little to a lot when they get warm to hot and that is your warning to turn the volume down before they blow! 1000 watt rms worth of woofers will take extra clean undistorted unclipped power fairly well, but 1000 watt rms worth of woofers can easily be blown on 1000 watts of dirty distorted clipped power rather easily all because it wasn't as loud as you expected and decided to turn up the gain and use it as a volume knob to make it louder. Just know that you can still blow the speakers by feeding them too much power if you ignore the signs of them getting warm/hot and stinky!
    2 points
  3. for Ying Long you'll want ro run 15.3 v, for a 9k , you'll be good with 80ah ( 2 banks of 6 ) each bank of 6 (40ah) will support 5k CLAMPED .. if you choose Headway , 13.8 - 14.6 v , a 96ah bank will support up to 11-12k CLAMPED ..
    1 point
  4. The mini seems a tad more affordable, for something to keep in mind who knows maybe I wait and catch a deal on it black Friday or Christmas.
    1 point
  5. To better help us help you what are you wired to? How much power do you want? Are you opposed to Brazilian?
    1 point
  6. Here are some pictures of my 2012 Toyota Tacoma build. Running 3K per coil, 4 Fi Neo 18"s fully loaded. I have 2 DC power alternators 1 370a for the system and the other 270a for the truck. II posted some info in the electrical section a while ago with details for a second alt on the tacoma/4runner 4.0l engine. My wife painted the inside of the box using acrylic paint. Total wattage about 28k. 8 mmats 3k for bass 2 mmats Hifi 4250 for Mids 2 mmats Hifi 6150 for Mid bass/tweeters Plays 15hz on up. The lithium cells are Panasonic G3, built by CJ lithium. I am adding another 90ah this weekend for a total of 270Ah. wire is 4/0 and 1/0 Flexaprene welding cable. I made custom RCA's for everything. The blue box on the top right in the amp rack pic is a 1k watt pure sine wave inverter. I have 10amps of 120vac in the back if i want to plug anything in. I still have a few more things to do to finish the build like make the wiring more presentable. Feel free to AMA. I designed, built and installed everything.
    1 point
  7. sell those d4s lto's , use the money to buy 80 ah of ying long , those d4s batteries are junk ....
    1 point
  8. Easy peasy, lemon squeezy.
    1 point
  9. They say "dont do that", because they dont want returns. That said, im doing the same thing on a 2018 4runner with oem alt. Been great for 4 years.
    1 point
  10. I love control. I want, and will always have it. I love again, control, so, for me, yes, i will run a DSP in every build i ever have. Unlike yester-year, they are now, wicked cheap, wicked available, and best of all, they WORK. The times of paying 1100 bones for some control, is over. At the moment, im running the 408. It has bluetooth control/connection, and, for me, its been fucking great. History - I had the RF 360.1, .2, .3. Four units from Audison, a Ampere Audio unit, maybe half a dozen Audio Control, and many others. For me, i want control. From pass bands, cuts, slopes, time alingment, EQ, saving and loading different presets, on and on and on. And again, this day and age, the things fucking connect, (back in the day, just gettting to connect to your unit, could pose a billion issues, let alone saving a preset, adjustments, and such) and they just flat out work. For me i wont run a system with out one. Ever. But, maybe for me, now its super easy, and i could see getting into one, a bit of a challenge. Again, you are in control. You fuck up once, and your tweeters are smoked. You put the wrong high pass on the tweets, welp, it will do what you say, and you can EASILY burn shit up. But, for me,..... ill never ever not have one. Cheers KB
    1 point
  11. Yes, but if you're adding more than one diode you will want to run your sense wire to an ignition switched source under the hood instead of using a ring terminal and going right off the alt charge stud because the diodes will always suck juice and the more diodes you put in series the more they will suck which is why you charge higher. Heres a video of someone showing how. Actually a couple videos.
    1 point
  12. Who says that? I've never heard it before. My 3 DC Power alts are about 10 years old now. 1 had failed a couple years ago with a bad voltage regulator and I tore all 3 down and replaced all voltage regulators all brush housing assemblies and a rectifier on one of them. Since I'm running cmax now I also added 2 diodes per alt sense wire, I will add a 3rd probably yet when ever I work on it again. I have no issues but the alts are basically like new now so who knows on this decreased lifespan and said wear. The only thing to really wear on an alternator are bearings and brushes from the alts spinning, this is going to wear no matter what. Then things that can fail would be your rectifier and voltage regulator which normally fail due to excessive heat with no real air movement in the engine bay. So being parked at a competition revving your engine to 2000rpm and demoing non stop is hard on the alts since the vehicle is not moving brining in fresh air to the engine bay. The proper way to increase charging voltage is to buy an external regulator, send your alternator in to have your internal regulator removed and wired for an external regulator, and then buy an external regulator. XS Power had a some PCM thing years ago to increase alt voltage but it was discontinued, I know mechman had a thing with a resistor and a potentiometer to increase voltage years ago. I think Brand X has something iirc for this currently as well. One thing to mention whether you go the brand x route or the diode route, you will want to change your sense wire from the charging stud of the alternator to an ignition switched 12 volt circuit. Adding diodes makes the alt thing the voltage is lower than it really is, but when the vehicle is off these diodes will still be pulling power continuously from the alt charge stud when the vehicle is off. So it can very easily drain your battery to nothing in a few days. So swapping your sense wire to ignition switched will stop that from happening.
    1 point
  13. Loctite 312 maaayyyyy.....fix that
    1 point
  14. Those boxes look solidly built but you are going to want VARIABLE tuning port, not fixed frequency. If you don't have a term lab you can get the SSA APM-2 SPL meter which is good to 174 dB it's considerably less expensive than the termlab. Your subs are good for the application but I can't tell you if your boxes are any good without some basic measurements, port area though seem too low in both boxes, just for that you may be having significant dB losses.
    1 point
  15. First you should own a termlab and then close the port of your box to run sealed and then play a tone sweep and see where the whole thing peaks. You can take it from there with that basic info. Some pics of your boxes would be nice. Also there were a lot of competitors posting here a while back but very few remain these days, so if you are hoping to talk to some of them, slim chances to do so on here at this time.
    1 point
  16. Rather drastic, the higher the impedance the more voltage drop you will have from the front of your rca cable to the rear. So say your deck puts out 2 volts on the preout and you have a high impedance cable that 2 volt signal may only be 1 volt by the time it makes it to your amp. Where as with a low impedance cable it may only be 1.7 volts by the time the signal makes it to your amp. Now these numbers are just for an idea, you would actually have to test the voltage drop from cable a vs cable b in the car hooked up to see the real world difference. I tested a new 1.5 foot Certified Bassheads rca cable at 0.12 ohms against some well used 3 foot SMD rca cables that came in at 0.05 ohms, vs a well used 6 foot SMD rca cables 0.09 ohms. Longer wire typically means more potential for voltage drop but the 6 foot SMD cables that came in lower than the CB cables that were 4 times shorter was rather interesting. I have some longer 18 foot SMD cables that only read some where around 0.18 ohms iirc as well. Not only will the wire length and gauge be a factor in the results, but the type solder being used to connect the ends to the wire (ideally silver solder), and the actual rca plugs being used as well. Some brands don't even solder the connections and just use a generic crimp, I bought some a 2 channel and 4 channel sets of Knukonceptz Karma cables a long time ago and the plug fell off the cable once I took them out, I didn't even bother using them even though the other cables appeared to be fine. I'm sure they fixed that issue by now though, or so I'd hope. Here is a short live video I did in 2016 testing the above 3 cables. https://www.facebook.com/audiofanaticz/videos/1265875193446793/?l=4871178961006316123
    1 point
  17. 125,000 watt Sound System = Face melting DEEP BASS! 12 15" Subwoofers | B2 Audio Burban' Hits HARD!
    1 point
  18. What amp(s) are you running? 1/0 has more capacity than dual 4awg, but if you'll only be drawing 200a, there's not really a functionality downside to dual 4awg. What brand wire, OFC for both 4awg & 1/0? For example, KnuKonceptz OFC 4awg is rated up to 150a at 20ft, 1/0 is rated up to 375a. If you're running a 2k class D amp though, a dual 4awg run should be plenty so there's no reason to get the 1/0 if you don't mind looking at/fusing 2 runs and the savings of it is worth it to you.
    1 point
  19. Sorry I don’t have the answer never been tested on this site but 2 runs of 4gauge should be better or equal to 1 0gauge. Would love to see a voltage drop test from Steve or Big D Wiz on this . Keep this post alive and maybe we get a YouTube test.
    1 point
  20. With many OEM's now having a source so integrated with the rest of the vehicle, and, or a source/head unit that is actually decent, many are now offering a amplifer with built in dsp, and even some bass restoration. (Many OEM sources will cut the freq's we all want, like the low low end, or even cut down the volume of certain freq's when you turn the volume up. Its usually done to protect the butthole drivers they use in the audio system). In later model vehicles/newer vehicles, the damn head unit/source can be so damn part of the entire car, running the ac/heat, cruise control, the security system, all sorts of shit) its forcing the audio companies to come out with products that will blend easily with oem stuff. All mentioned above are great. Im a huge fan of the Helix/Audiotec Fischer boards/dsp. Big fan. Although pricey, and hard to find. But many are now doing the same. (as mentioned above with Kicker)
    1 point
  21. They are still on the site just looked.. so not sure where you looked, also buy button is still there.
    1 point
  22. My FB feed is full of my buddys headin to Surf City as of late. That is one large show, ive never had the privilege of getting to, but looks like a freaking ball.
    1 point
  23. Nooo that's false...Plenty of HO offerings for Altima.. I have an auto tech 320 on my 2015 Altima 2.5S ...Contact auto tech engineering on FB
    1 point
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