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  1. I always wanted to strap 2 amps together and test them. Since i am dropping these two into my Ford F250 soon, i figured today was a good day to do that! For info on this amp visit http://www.b2audio.com More specs on this amp (pdf file) here https://www.b2audio.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/rage_amps_man_090119.pdf Thanks for watching if you did!
    4 points
  2. I love it! I think it is missing something though. So i added this clear acrylic trim piece just to see if i would like it there. I think i will probably keep it and make it out of aluminum or stainless. I think it breaks it up nicely.
    4 points
  3. We made a BUNCH of 3/0 AWG custom cables for Ron's Gen 3 Dodge Diesel Truck. We also set him up with a lime green 370A Mechman alternator. He did all the installation per our guidelines. He supplied his own battery terminals and red wire covering . . . He brought it by and we put the carbon pile on it. Now, this thing is kinda' like D'Amore's honeybadger - it don't give a shit. The results were mighty impressive. The screen shot I captured was at idle (800 rpm). We also measured the voltage drop between the alternator and the battery which we had the carbon pile connected. The sun was in the absolute wrong spot at that time so the photos with the meters was washed out, unfortunately. However, who would like to guess the difference in voltage measurements between the two meters, given the following? 315A - at operating temp, at rpm Meter 1 - red to Alt output stud and black to case of alt Meter 2 - red to battery (+) and and black to (-) terminals on passenger side battery This is known as a voltage drop analysis when you look at the difference of voltage between any two points in a circuit. Ideally, we like to see such measurements differ by less than 3%. This shows us if the circuit is optimized or has room for improvement. Keep in mind that any voltage drop is voltage loss, and is converted to heat vs work. So, guesses? And by the way, all alternators have losses due to heat when mounted to an engine in an hot engine bay. We like to see that 15% or less under load while the alternator is at operating temp. So, this Mechman unit delivered the goods as always.
    3 points
  4. Holy smokes its me again. So I bought an old school Alienware Predator case on the cheap and wanted to throw my current rig in it for pure nostalgia purposes. For those that don't know, these PCs were the BEES KNEES back in 02-05 and was my dream PC. So bought a case on ebay for 200 bucks that looked in decent shape to start. Equipment - CPU- AMD 5800x 3.8ghz GPU - AMD 6900XT 16gb RAM - G Skill 32gb 3600mhz HD - Seagate Firecuda 1TB m.2 Motherboard - ASRock Tiachi x570 Watercooler - AIO 360 radiator (6) 120mm EZDIY rgb fans Monitor - Samsung 49" Odyssey G9 Speakers - Klipsch RP15 with a 10" Klipsch subwoofer First had to take it all apart and start sanding for new paint. What it looked like when I got it, Plasma purple in somewhat decent shape, lots of scratches. Threw on some spray-on bedliner to coat the inside metal case black (no more retro steelie) Everything loaded in External Paint is a Ford explorer black metallic Finished product
    3 points
  5. it wont stop raining here so i havent done anything util today. managed to get some stuff done this morning before it started again. This round im gonna try to seal off the trunk again and fire forward. gonna do a better job of sealing off this time though. Started out making a template and transferred that to wood and so on and so forth. Going to need some trim pieces for this gap obviously. this part was a pain in the ass to be honest. Myu solution will require a bit of bodywork and filler to flush it out but its not bad. A couple of rectangle pieces and a wedge or two with a weird angle on them should fill this in nicely Made the cutout for the box to fit into. The box is going to sit flush up against the back of this coutout. Here is the base the box will sit on Added some side panels to help seal off. i think i will screw the box into these to make sure its secure. maybe not, i dont know. would be nice to easily remove the box but i dont want any leaks either. Box will sit like this Thats all for today. gotta pull all this out again and then put sound deadener over all the holes i can find so its sealed off really good. then i need a lower trim piece for the front will probably body work the front panel to smooth out all the lines and hide the business end of stuff. I may just wire up everything to make sure the box doesnt have any terrible flaws before i get crazy. i have plenty of depth to work if i need to change anything. i only had about 5 hours to work today, so i didnt get much progress but i guess any progress is good lol. Thanks for looking!
    3 points
  6. me too! ive always wanted to do one. this one came out a little janky but now i know what mistakes i made and have a better plan for the next one! heres some more pics I dont like these corners sticking out, just asking to get broke off. that takes care of that! All finished up. might paint it later The next step is to toss it in the trunk and see how it sounds. i have a feeling my tuning is gonna be a bit higher than i wanted but thats no big deal. i think i want to seal off the cabin of the car and fire this forward into the cabin from the trunk. The lkast time it tried it i half assed it and it didnt work too well. so maybe i'll get it right this time \
    3 points
  7. had to kinda test how many kerf to make. i know hunter martin made a guide but who knows where it is anymore'='' second kerf cut made it looks a bit wonky in this view, i went the wrong way, or too far anyway. it wont matter once its all glued up and forced into place and shape. thats all im ding for today. i'll gp do some more work tomorrow. i think i shoulld have cut the speaker hole out first but as long as i clamp this down tiight and flat it will be fine. i'll add a second baffle when i ge to that point. thanks for looking
    3 points
  8. The list of "150db" leader board on term pro, in just DB drag, is about 47 pages long. Just in the 1k class. Most, have 2 drivers, and not 18's. Your vehicle plays a big role in metering efficiency. If all you are doing, is chasing numbers, Id rethink your entire set up. (To me, the Fi btl, is one of the most rad drivers out there,.. i love them, especially for a daily ground pounder, but hey, do you)
    3 points
  9. Also got my rock lights back to working. Had a lil hiccup when the lift was installed. Got them repaired, and working again. 20220526_000307.mp4
    3 points
  10. True, TRUE sq, can get out of hand fast, budget wise. Speaker location, is huge, as well as direct over buying 4000 dollar focal rigs. Ive never done a sq build, but, buying seperates, over comp sets seems ideal to me (what ive done) as well as processing, time alignment, location, direction, sound dampening, vehicle resonance at specific frequencies, and such, then, that brings in tools. You will want/need a good mic, laptop/3software, and such, to show you bandwidth, peaks, valleys, direction, TA, and such. (Where a good dsp will help) Source can be huge, lossless files/music is a full other bag of monsters.... A true sq oriented building is super satisfying and SUPER involved. Most say SQ, and most just have decent gear in oem locations, and it sounds ok, and they call it sq. Gear,.. bring money. Most SQ guys, won't run anythkng but class A, or class AB. They are large amps, that make more heat than your generic class d turd. (See Tonys big boy, sq class holy fuck amplifer line, things cost more than my entire build) So, its all up to you, how far you wanna go down the rabbit hole. Cheers and good luck. (I think most that say SQ, TRUE SQ, really dont have any idea what they are getting into, but, if you're willing, anything is doable no doubt)
    3 points
  11. Hey guys! It's been a LONG time. I decided I would hop on here and share a couple of builds I have going on right now. my roommate and best friend Stephen just bought a Jetta Sportwagen TDI, and he has big plans for it. We started off with window tint (5% ceramic tint all the way around) and a stereo to replace that awful factory bluetooth setup. Today, we built the box and put it all together. I sold him some old Skar VVX 12 v3s and an RP1500.1D I had in my 4Runner (stay tuned for a build on that 4Runner soon!). Upcoming is KW Coilovers, Rawtek full exhaust, CR170 turbo, Malone Stage 3 tune and some head porting. First is tinting. Picking up wood in my Blackwood! No bed ftl lol. Equipment! Design Time to build! Time to put her in! She hides pretty well! lol. Stay tuned for more!
    3 points
  12. Since its an SIA amp, you most likely (or your "friend that knows more") have the crossover settings on the amp all wrong for sub use, it's a common issue with people that know it all but never messed with a full bridge full range amp before. It's so bad of an issue of this self proclaimed professional installers that been doing this forever send perfectly working amps back as bad amps for warranty. Watch this video which explains what the crossovers do and how to set them, since its a full range amp the crossovers basically work oppisite/backkwards of what they do on a typical sub amp that just outputs a low pass only signal.
    3 points
  13. Been awhile guys and I’m laughing at myself and some of the things I’ve said on this build log lol. Feel like I’ve learned a decent bit about car audio since I’ve been active on this build log but anyways box is drying as we speak with its final coating of paint. Waiting on my alternator from Dc power to come in and will be ordering headway cells (doing a battery delete) to make a bank.
    3 points
  14. Ive had 8 amps, on one remote line. Never had a issue.
    3 points
  15. Here are the Skar EVL (Yellow) and the Resilient Gold (orange) on your box specs. The Resilient Gold it looks they can work in a larger net volume than the skar, in fact their spec tops at 2.5 net per driver, they even have larger Xmax to back it up. Conclusion: these subs will work just fine in your current box but you may gain some extra performance going with a larger box.
    3 points
  16. It almost looks like a grey scaled filter or something...but it isn't. This photo is real life. green ain't exactly my favorite color but it does look good here! that's all for today! new video coming tomorrow!
    3 points
  17. Cover is held with magnets Template to make a recess Since it's been so long. This is what it powers
    3 points
  18. Crazy design built crazy fast but I do agree with you, if you enjoyed the outcome, in the end it's all that matters.
    3 points
  19. Thats 100% not the glue that they use on dustcaps. Also the way the surround is unevenly pulled away from the basket edges is rather jank So this was apparently rebuilt by someone with very little experience in building woofers. This is not Sundown quality and something like this wouldnt be sold as new. Your audio dealer is trying to play you for a fool, so I would throw this threw his shop window and put a gun to his head and tell him to give back your money.
    3 points
  20. a little bit of kitty hair, some sanding and it is starting to become one! i rattle canned them black so i can see how they will look NOT wood. Then i sanded some more. As of right now they are still ugly but starting to take shape, If you squint and ignore my sand paper marks you might be able to envision my vision. These will be wrapped in black suede to match the upper piece in the door panel. Hopefully tomorrow.
    3 points
  21. periodically check for corrosion for under hood battery connections , for lug connections always use glue lined heat shrink , for direct wire connections (set screw type) use a wire ferrule with heat shrink to better protect wire from moisture .
    2 points
  22. Sign is up and looks awesome!!!!
    2 points
  23. Once you go DSP you never go back!
    2 points
  24. Mounted the one side of the lithium, made the trim panels match the contour or the plastics & wrapped. Also started the pillars.. my 1st time doing pillars so take it easy on me Had to cover the hole from my IB setup - all power & ground wire are routing through this
    2 points
  25. So I mounted them quick to get an idea, fed them from a b2 rage 2500.1 at 2ohm so they saw 2k.. Honestly thought it'd be a touch louder on 2k. Definitely over 150db for sure though (comparing to my older systems which I've metered). Either way, when all said & done they'll see 8k.. slightly more power lol. Did a little trim work & wrapped the amps in a vinyl. The beauty panel upper portion around the port will also be wrapped in the forged carbon vinyl & the lower half around the subs will be black suede. I'll have trouble wiring the amps as it's REAL tight. We'll see
    2 points
  26. Hey all, I wanted to throw out a new link to the SMD tool map I have been updating since April 23, 2020 to get some more exposure to this map and gather more data. Likewise, I will link the raw data in .csv format for any future map mods to have access to. Along side this I will show the process to update the data into google maps. If you would like to update your information or be added to this map please do the following: PM @Joshdashef or Respond to this post with a location, tools available, and any additional comments you want to add. Example: AZ Phoenix. DD-1, Term Lab. Will help with setting gains, etc. Contact me _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Map Link _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ The rest of this post will be like a tutorial so you can disregard unless your curious what is behind the curtain (one-time setup to create your own map with data) Sign into google account and create a custom "My Maps" Then download .csv file titled, "SMD Tool Map 20XX - RAW CLEAN DATA," from link above Follow next steps below for updating data for first time imports I use google drive to make this process a little easier but essentially you will be manually importing the data (sadly no way to automate or have live data changes show without scripting) My google sheet looks like this All cells that are highlighted are what I enter in from any request. Date/Username/County/State/City/Zip Code/Tools/A.I. (leaving anything blank that isn't mentioned). The Agg. Location is a formula using some if and concatenate formulas, so that will normalize it all for google maps api to show the markers. Updating Data You will have a blank map at the beginning or a layer already created if you are updating data. You will want to add another layer regardless then click import If you use a file type like .csv you can upload it here or use Google Drive to import (easier) Once you have your file imported, it will ask you two questions. Follow the pictures below using Agg. Location and Username respectively. 1. Choose columns to position your placemarks (what does google maps need to place a dot = address/location/gps cords./etc.) 2. Choose a column to title your markers (name of each dot placed) This will create a new layer titled the same as the file you import. We want to change to a different style than Uniform. Click Uniform Style Select Group places by: Seq. of numbers | Set labels: Username (or something else if you want) Done
    2 points
  27. Chief, if that's where you at with box design and build knowledge - I'd strongly recommend against going with a wall. Play around with smaller stuff, get your feet under you, then play around with the big stuff. I think coming into this trying to big out of the gate is going to set you up for a lot of frustration, lost time, and lost money.
    2 points
  28. A B pillar is right behind the front seats. You'd definitionally lose your rear seats. Well... Unless you put seats in the box hah C pillar would be what you're after. Not really sure how to help with dimensions? You're going to need to get out there with a tape measure
    2 points
  29. I used 2 lb. mlv for the floor in the cabin. Heavy stuff. I still need a piece for the trunk as well.
    2 points
  30. So I had to replace the mid/highs amp. It's starting to go. You could listen to music loud/low and on occasion you would get no sound for a few seconds. Tried different RCAs/deck same thing. I also did a complete front batteries delete/added headway cells. Cells were charged then connected. Since they are used from batteryhookup.com instead of being 8ah per cell they are prolly 5ah at a min, so we can say 100ah minimum. Can I play all day and voltage not drop yes. Also fuck Google photos. New phone saves everything to it. And I don't like it.
    2 points
  31. Panels are primered now. Primered will be painted body color
    2 points
  32. Best way to go is to add up all the channels/speakers of your factory stereo such as (for example my car) front center channel front left tweeter front right tweeter front left door front right door midbass rear left door rear right door midrange rear left deck rear right deck tweeter rear deck factory sub So in this case 10 channels/speakers, but maybe you don't care about keeping the center channel so then don't count/include that one, and since I already have the front tweeter inputs I don't need to worry about the input signal from the rear deck tweeters since its already the same as the front tweeters so I dont include those 2 channels as well. So now I know I need a HLC or a DSP with 7 channels of input With todays factory stereos in vehicles they have built in crossover slopes that you cant adjust so having a better HLC/DSP that allows you to input all of the above needed factory speaker signals into the device so that it can sum all those channels together for a full bandwidth output. Almost every DSP will allow you to do this and only a handful of HLC's (such as the multi channel Audiocontrol HLC's). So in this example with 7 channels needed look at getting the Audio Control LC8i, or a DSP that will give you more control than the LC8i will with things like a EQ, Active crossovers, Time Alignment, and so much more for every channel output with the Audio Control DM-810 Without summing the channels together for a full bandwidth signal you're stuck using the factory crossover settings that come from which ever speaker your current converter is hooked up too. So in my case not a single speaker has a full bandwidth output and depending on what speaker I tap into I will either get highs, midbass, midrange, or bass, which means if I wanted to put a full range speaker like a 6by9 in my doors all it will play is mid bass and not give me in treble unless I got installed a HLC or a DSP that takes all those factory signals and sum them together to create that full bandwidth signal that was once separated due to the factory crossovers that cant be changed. Running multiple 2 channel LOCs like you currently are is not going to solve any problem and only allow you to regurgitate the factory signal but with more power due to your added amplifiers. Granted every vehicle is different with how they go about their crossovers where as some may just have a basic radio, but if you have a nicer factory system that you don't want to replace the headunit with then a multichannel HLC or DSP with channel summing is the only way to go. My cadillac has a motorized touchscreen that raises from the dash and it offers me surround sound, usb, aux, bluetooth, dvd, gps, internal harddrive for music, siruisxm, backup camera, and a couple other things. Replacing my factory radio will make me use some ugly dash kit and lose the factory motorized screen and the only thing I gain is rca preouts from it so a DSP is a much better option plus the DSP will give me more ability to fine tune the settings besides just the basic fader/balance/bass/midrange/treble controls (but if you don't want the ability to eq each channel then something like the LC8i will be fine). The Audiocontrol DSPs look nice but Ive never used them, Im currently using a Rockford 3Sixty.2 DSP, and an Audison BitOne DSP
    2 points
  33. First off, you should NEVER put lithium under the hood of a vehicle, it can't handle that type of heat at all. I think there is only one company that makes a lithium battery that can handle that type of torture and I want to say its the new XS Power Titan lithium's (but I could be wrong). The additional heat from being under the hood will severely shorten the batteries life, cause swelling, and in severe cases cause the batteries to vent or catch fire. Almost everyone that runs lithium does a "front battery delete" and makes a fake box with distribution bars on the top to mimic the under hood battery, and then has the lithium in the back. Secondly if your going to use 2 JY Power HP-40s just wire both batteries together in parallel just like you would with multiple AGM batteries. So connect both batteries positives together, and connect both batteries negatives together. Third Limitless Lithium 25ah is a lithium battery, I don't believe Limitless offers super capacitors at all, nor have they in the past so whoever is saying that clearly has no idea what they are talking about. The only reason that I could think of on why someone would claim that is because Limitless use a different type of cell that is round that look similar to super capacitors but are not. Lithium batteries come in all different types of configurations such as larger round cells, square/rectangular cells, pouches, and even smaller cells that one would use in their vape. Not only do they come in those various sizes they have a bunch of different chemistries such as LifePO4, LTO, LiMn2O4, and so many more but these are just a few of the chemistries used in car audio. You don't want to mix different chemistries of lithium together because they have different charge and discharge ratings which could cause 1 type of lithium to discharge the other type when the vehicle is off. I know there are some that can be used with others and some that can even be used with AGM batteries but I forget the chemistry types but even still its best not to do it period. I'm pretty sure that both the JY Power HP-40 and the Limitless Lithium 25ah are both LifePO4 cells though but 1 is a rectangular type cell and the other brand uses round cells. If it was me though Id just sell the Limitless and take that money to get a 3rd matching HP-40, or spend it on something else.
    2 points
  34. The master/slave selection switch is only used when you are strapping amps, hence why you only get signal out of the 1 amp and your slave has nothing since the 2 amps are not strapped together with the speaker wire grounds, and that rca going into your slave is a 180 degree out of phase signal. You can only strap amps in pairs unless you have some B2 amps (iirc) that allow you to strap multiples up to 3 I think but thats the only brand I ever seen that option. Either way strapping amps is not ideal since the amps are more prone to go into protect even if you are within all specs and don't wire below 2 ohms per pair of strapped amps. From my testing over the years from various brands and models of amps Ive always gotten more power out of the amps not strapped and they were a lot more stable not strapped even when wiring to crazy low impedances for spl purposes. I've even tried 3rd party products the the Maxxsonics MaxLink made for strapping any matching amps (even non strappable amps) and it was less than ideal as well. The RCA splitter box is your best bet which you already know by now, and volt match every amp so the output power is the same on each one.
    2 points
  35. EVs still have a 12v side. Headlights, power outlets, windows, etc etc. 12v amplifiers will still work. I've heard that the Tesla DC-DC stepdowns are rated for somewhere in the 2-3kW range. So, for most users, not much of a difference there. For SPL, however? I'd anticipate shifting to amplifiers that don't rely on a step-up process to shift from 12v to XYZ internal rail voltage. Taramps comes to mind. Their larger units accept nearly 400vdc. I think we have a number of years before this happens though. And if/when it does, I'd anticipate it would be bordering a 'professionals only' hookup on account of several hundred volts of DC power coming from a system that can supply a couple hundred kW of power under normal operation. Very, very dangerous.
    2 points
  36. T and S parameters for x12 v3 after a few months of abuse regular use.
    2 points
  37. Some updates on the system finally. Just too much crazy to explain. So crazy it sounds like a movie. Such is life I guess. With the help of many people plus Tony D'Amore and Tony Candela of CE electric. I have been able to eliminate almost all turn off sounds. Hardly noticeable even turning the key off before the stereo. Ended up using 8 spdt 50/30 relays for all speakers and subs. They get warm at full tilt but have not tripped once. Being done afterwards it still looks pretty decent to me.
    2 points
  38. by the way , DO NOT USE THIN BUSBAR PLATES like Parker on youtube , get some Coventry or Project DB bars , i got some off Ebay that are 4mm thick ( the plates in the picture i posted) the ones on Parkers you tube video are 1.143 mm thick , yeah not enough pulling 400-600 amp through it ! i'll be pulling about 450 max amps (Deaf Bonce AAK4000 & D'amore 400.4 ) using the plates(busbar) i got allows me to mount in a group 31 battery box
    2 points
  39. Volume is after displacements. Net volume. Generally speaking, stick to spec. There's a 15-20% fudge factor in there that's still acceptable and can be tweaked to personal taste / needs, but 1.4 is really pushing it. If you don't have the space for a ported box, just run 'er sealed! I reckon you'd have an easier time with a properly sized sealed box vs. an improperly sized ported one. I'm going to generalize *really* hard here because there are a *ton* of variables.... But the issue with going too small on ported being that it's a resonance system, and losing air mass really boinks the behavior - your response curve will tend towards higher frequencies / peaky response. Sort of like how prefabs only really get loud on A Milli.
    2 points
  40. Here's what modeling shows for your sub between a 1.5 cuft sealed (yellow plot) and a 2 cuft @ 32 Hz enclosure (orange plot): It's a lot of output lost using sealed in this case.
    2 points
  41. Latest wiring photo as of yesterday afternoon of lower amp rack - almost complete - you can see the relay in there now for remote turn-on circuit. Still missing the 8ga ferrules required to finish wiring the small fuse block power and ground to distribution blocks, to finish off this rack.
    2 points
  42. Proceeded to add the 4-ch amp power and ground wires to the distribution blocks - the other ends are loose until I get to the point of installing the two levels into the car - I left enough slack so I could easily slide out the upper amp rack forward onto the seats for ease of access, tuning, etc. Just missing the 8-ga wire and ferrules which should come in tomorrow
    2 points
  43. Not much progress last night but the box is properly sealed for sure - used construction sealant on all joints, and decided hell why not, let's do the front stacked baffle so that if any stack didn't have quite enough glue, it'll be sealed anyways. Used Sika construction sealant - full cure time 4-7 days, subs will not go in before then (ensure all off-gassing complete);
    2 points
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