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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/28/23 in all areas

  1. getting close to having the wall done and wired up on 5 of the small amps( swaping to 5x 2500w rms amps in the near future , still need to seal it to the b pillars and other work but i got plenty of time before the next comp
    3 points
  2. progress is slow but i got the port cut and in today for testing and 3 out of the 5 sub amps installed its enough for some low power testing /checking making sure the enclosure doesnt have anything loose etc hopefully ill have enough time this weekend to get all 5 wired up and playing
    3 points
  3. Lexus ISF on NOS cold start 🥶 and rev (5.0 V8) ISS Forged SS exhaust
    2 points
  4. Sundown Audio X8 v.4 8” Subwoofer is a legit BEAST (SMD flash giveaway!)
    2 points
  5. closer , waiting ont he first 2 baffle layers to dry and then i can glue this one to those and install it for real
    2 points
  6. getting the inner shell done tonight
    2 points
  7. Crazy Hair Raising BASS! Slam Halen Mazda truck 18kw System 6 12" Subs Bandpass Blow-Thru (Finished)
    2 points
  8. figured id share my build this is my first build on over 20 years , my last build was 2x alumapro bp-12's built into the cabin of a 89 camaro, this build specs out as follows 4x sundown audio e8 v6's built my own 3.6 net cf slot ported box tuned to 34 hz the front doors each are getting 1x 8 inch dayton audio midbass , and 2x 6.5" recoil midranges along with the same in the rear doors for all the amps im originally wanted to run 2x jp23's and 2x jp34ab's but i ended up deciding to run 4x recoil audio red 1200.1 for the subs ( 1 amp for each sub at 1 ohm ) and 2x recoil audio rea 600.4 ab amps for the mids and highs unfortunately for me the biggest alt i can find for this car atm is a 250amp so im going to have to figure something out here more then likley building a bracket to mount a second alt im also building a 96ah headway bank 4 runs of 1/0 from front to back due to it being winter progress is slow even though i have most of the pieces needed to get this together first things to get done will be the alt and running all of the 1/0 runs as of right now i put the raw box in the car and im running it on a single red1200.1 and i must say i am very pleased with it on the single amp and i also got the front door baffles made and screwed to the panels but they need all the fiberglass work done which i cant do till it warms up for right now i have some pyle 6.5's in the doors that were given to me for free and the dayton 8's the amp rack itself is being built inplace of the rear seat bottoms anyways heres a few pics for the time being the one video is just them on a 60x2 amp i had laying around
    2 points
  9. Who remembers when I use to post my "REALTIME" videos? Well they are coming back
    2 points
  10. recoil has new amps coming amp ill be getting 3x of the 2500's to replace the 1200's , i also did start to deaden the doors got the driver side door outer skin done today , hoping to get one door done each day , i think im going to get some 150 mil stuff to do the inner panel with instead of using the 394mil stuff on that as well
    2 points
  11. You do subs up in hatchbacks, vans and SUV for example but in trunk cars doing subs up would rattle the trunk lid bad and that rattling is difficult or impossible to stop even after applying deadening so generally not recommended. You can try to use the box with subs firing forward or back, firing back is usually louder. Any other questions let me know.
    2 points
  12. Good lord Dude... That's like.... Double what I get. And I'm bottlenecked by my 5950x. Hot damn dude
    2 points
  13. Swapped McLaren mlt5s for PRV TW450S and added a 2nd tweet set ...doors will get finished eventually lol
    2 points
  14. I have a VW Golf (2017). It has the basic entertainment system. I wanted to go with a high level to my DSP. I had nothing but problems going that route. The VW head unit is looking for a specific resistance at the speakers. I was constantly getting distortion coming in and out depending on the recording and song (It would happen multiple times through a song). This happened on multiple music platforms. It didn't matter how we set the headunit eq or volume at. If it was flat, below flat, frequencies turned down or up. It always came back to distorting at some point. I did get the work completed through a reputable shop and was thankful that all the diagnosis did not cost me anything. There is a unit that can be installed that integrates the VW head unit and has RCA outputs (I don't remember what it is) Ultimately I had went to the aftermarket headunit. Zero issues since.
    1 point
  15. The Audio Control is the right path for the cars with the infotainment systems. I am in the process of doing this exact same thing in my VW GTI and will be using the Audio Control LC6i. I used this in the previous version of VW that I had without issue and was pleased with the results. If you want to take it a step further by using the DM-810 that would be an awesome processor to add to the system to give you full active control. They can be a bit to tune, but well worth the effort as the result will give you the best possible sound to your liking.
    1 point
  16. Absurd Sound System Power Wiring ⚡️ pt.1 multiple 2/0 (double zero) cable runs under the Tahoe
    1 point
  17. Bumping up this oldie but goodie here. So for the past 2 years or so I've been using this same T-Line box with this same now 14 year old Subwoofer from the now defunked company in my home theater build. I'm getting ready to build a second one as I have a still never used eD 13kv.4 subwoofer that I'm gonna use to have a dual 12 subwoofer setup in my theater room. If anyone is interested in seeing said theater room I have linked it over from my Reddit page here: Reddit Theater Page
    1 point
  18. for the smal info that i could find, its a us made sub, 800 w rms each, dont quote me on that lol so 2 12" with 1600 w rms is a nice sub to have for a daily....
    1 point
  19. The heaviest 12” Sub? 🔊Weight Check ⚖️ Pride Audio on the scale
    1 point
  20. “Rock it Homeboy” 🚗🔊 (BAM) 🍺 Slapping Bass & Hitting Switches E40 Video Shoot 1993 (rare)
    1 point
  21. dueling gaming pc’s 😁 I networked the drives so I can use the “older” pc as a storage server also. Win! The one on the left is the previous PC but with an RTX 3090 in it. The 4090 was migrated over to the new tower.
    1 point
  22. 4 18” Subs SLAMMING 🔊 30,000 watt Chevy Tahoe - Discovery Channel video shoot 🎥
    1 point
  23. This case blows for air flow, ... add in temps being 3 digits for 6 weeks straight here, and, why not get a pump, cpu and gpu block,.. chuck a rad or 2 in there, and shove some water through things. Heat killer cpu block, EK gpu block, 360mm rad, 280mm rad, BEquiet silent wing pro fans, aquasuite quadro controller/software ( i dig this thing) , EK d5 pump,res, fittings,tubing. Just a simple gaming rig, nothing serious. HyteY60 case/7800x3d/7900xtx/DDR5-6400 CL30/Asus Strix x670e-e/Seasonic 1000 prime titanium Samsung g7 32" 240hz/Samsung g7 27" 240hz/ROG Azoth keys First go with a loop,... and, I think ill add a loop to my other rig. I have a flow sensor, and some other ish, ready to go in, when I get bored enough to stick it all in. Runs like a top.
    1 point
  24. Wiring/batteries: Honestly, 1 run of 0ga +/- should be fine unless you're pushing absurd lengths. Can calculate voltage drop across wiring to get wherever ya need as far as Vdrop goes. Same goes for batteries. That's plenty for the power you're running. As always though, you can always adjust/upgrade if you find your electrical isn't performing how you want. I don't have any hands-on with those rigs, so I'll take your word on the ground loop shenanigans. --- Alternator: Again, prefacing this with I don't have any hands-on with these. So if you've already done the research on it, apologies. Just want to have a talking point on it. I'll also add that if you wanted to bypass ELM altogether, ask mechman for an external regulator. If you go that route, throw the wiring harness in the trash and wire the +/- on the regulator with 8ga tinned OFC. In my experience, the 14(?) gauge the kits come with creates a bit of a feedback loop of sorts and yields inconsistent voltage. the tl;dr is voltage drop across the sense wires causes the regulator to read low voltage, increasing power, increasing voltage drop, and so on until it sees an equilibrium. At which point, the regulator eases up, eliminating the voltage drop, then reading a higher voltage, and so on until that sees an equilibrium. Then the whole process repeats cyclically. See it more with larger battery banks or capacitors than with smaller stuff, ironically. Would this one work? https://www.mechman.com/alternators/acura/ilx/2-4l/2013-2015/240-amp-alternator-for-select-2-4l-honda-acura/ If so, honestly, you could probably ditch the rear battery and replace w/ capacitors to save some weight, or throw a smaller one in there. Idle output might be challenge though, IIRC these hondas have a smallish crank pulley. That's something you'll have to weigh the pros/cons of on your end. --- Trunk coating: Be careful with any sort of painted on material, especially in low spots like the trunk, and absolutely don't use it on exterior. It likes to trap water between the coating and base material and can cause some corrosion issues. Nice idea on the off-label use though. Always like to see those sorts of experiments. --- Rear speakers: depends how stiff they are. Rear stage usually isn't a huge consideration on builds like this. But there are 2 trains of thought on it: 1. Remove them altogether so you have a gaping hole to let pressure through to the cab. Test and check to see if your system performs better with them in or out. It's not always better because of resonances. That turns your box+trunk into a psuedo series-tuned-6th-order. 2. Install the rear speakers and leave the buckets in place to protect them. The pressure from the sub will shred the things otherwise. Depending on how it goes together and how stiff it is, you could use sound deadener to firm up the area and bolster your efforts to seal off those drivers.
    1 point
  25. For the port size and length you should model the enclosure in a program like winisd that will show you the port air velocity and excursion so you can see how different sizes of port will effect how it all performs. You don't need anything to direct the airflow to the ports except for a flared end piece. Keep the end of the port away from the back wall by at least the diameter of the port. I.E. a 4 inch diameter port should have at least 4 inches clearance at the end of the port.
    1 point
  26. My house isn't that flimsy haha! But that would be wild to cause an avalanche this winter and clear my roof/solar panels off of snow with some good bass like this
    1 point
  27. Damn that house flex though Wonder if you could clear the snow off the roof
    1 point
  28. Gigantic Custom Ford F450 Grill Emblem & Laser Cut Polished Stainless steel Suspension Parts
    1 point
  29. The subsonic (high pass) is generally 4th order not 2nd order filter in most amps so it will need to be set higher to better control excursion, also, WinISD doesn't account for cabin gain so your frequency response just show how the box will play outdoors. But you can still compare your plot with a 4.75 net box tuned to 29Hz (the prefab) to see how much are you expected to gain, that actually is useful information you might be interested in.
    1 point
  30. i have a Alpine 9887 and a scope, the RCA outs dont clip at full volume. the internal amp clips at volume 21 out of 35
    1 point
  31. Some but not all headunits will not distort at max volume when only using rca preouts. Now if you're using the internal amp of the headunit that will usually distort long before the rca preouts will so you will want to use that as your max volume setting.
    1 point
  32. Check it out! Mechman Alternator "PWM-1" Voltage Controller | Sneak Peek Inside! (Proto Work)
    1 point
  33. Ridiculous peak to peak subwoofer flex 🔊💪🏽 Sundown Audio pushed to its limits
    1 point
  34. This Caddy's Got BASS! 6 12" Subwoofers 🔊 Slamming hard! 1000hp Twin Turbo Escalade out for a spin
    1 point
  35. 1600 watts? Amp Test Tuesday⚡️(shorts) Soundigital EVOX2 1600.1 Major power, tiny case (Results)
    1 point
  36. I can't believe I remembered my old logins! I haven't done audio in YEARS! But I just grabbed me my first (fixer upper) SUV and was like, "Back in the day, I always said I'd do something crazy if I got me an SUV." This is the only audio forum I've ever been a part of so... Here I am, checking you guys out lol. Coincidentally, I asked this same question as I was typing the website in 😂. To answer your question though, I got away from audio and started building me some "fast" stuff. I got this SUV with a blown head gasket for the winter just to have a 4wd beater so I didn't have to drive my fun cars in the crappy weather. Once I did the gasket, that itch came back like crazy, VERY QUICKLY lol. So Im now actively installing some old stuff that I had in plastic from the last car I did audio in, God knows how long ago, just hoping it'll hold me over and not make me wanna spend some money 😂 But, Hi all! Good to see y'all AND the site are still kicking!
    1 point
  37. That is not normal. Your car is possessed most likely.
    1 point
  38. If you have a subpar electrical you can go with this: Rockford Fosgate Power T1500-1BDCP It will give you like 1200W at 4 ohm and close to 2K at 2 ohm, it is expensive unfortunately but it can work on bad electrical also fits 4AWG cable. There are cheaper alternatives, Taramps smart 3 bass and the SIA series from sundown BUT full bridge amps need costly perfect electrical, 12.5 V minimum under max load or these amps can get damaged. These type of amps better leave alone in entry level systems.
    1 point
  39. You connect your head unit's REAR AUDIO OUT outputs to the MAIN-IN inputs of the EQ and you are done.
    1 point
  40. Soulgasm BASS Build 16 15" Subs "50,000 sum-odd watts" 6th Order Bandpass Wall As Caged As it Gets!
    1 point
  41. Here are 3 suggestions that will fit: For a high output daily use the Sundown Uv2 10 on 2K. For a SQL type of sound use the SSA GCON 10 on 1.5K. For sound quality flatter presentation (like.. I think I have a sub back there) you can use the 10W7AE-3 on 800W (may need a MDF ring).
    1 point
  42. Hi Karkov, long time no see, honestly I would avoid a 10" sub at all costs, they are extremely inefficient and the box size is not that different, so your box is about 1.35-1.4 before sub displacement, a standard box for a DC Audio 12" is 1.5 net so almost same box size being the 12" much louder for the watt, it looks like Fi simply does not make 10" subs anymore likely for that reason. If you still want to use that box simplest would be reverse mount the sub if you don't want to sand a little the mounting hole of the box, if you want to use a sub with a lesser mounting hole diameter you can use a MDF ring to install it. Your port area is limited also so subs above 2K and high excursion subs like Sundown X will find themselves in a low port area box, if you are interested in a particular sub post below and I will check it for you.
    1 point
  43. time to put the box in…although it may come back out for more @Second Skinsound deadener soon!
    1 point
  44. I'm still alive...... and still an asshole!
    1 point
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