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tboorn

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Posts posted by tboorn

  1. he was just trying to help out a fellow basshead. i cant think of the amount of times people have had a crazy idea they want to build, whether it be too big or too small one way or the other, and everyone talks down on it because of why it wont work, then they build it anyways and play it within the specs they know it can handle. It wouldnt be smart for DC to sell a lvl 6 12" to anyone because everyone would think its another perfect sub that should be able to take abuse, but in reality if the person knows what they are doing, and are inclined enough to make they idea come true, they can usually figure out how to make it work without complete failure. that doesnt mean everyone should do it, but for some it can be done. thats just how i see it and why i dont see a prob with CJ willing to help build a custom sub.

  2. the face of pure happiness right there without a doubt. since that bike doesnt have a kickstand make sure to tell Stan to try not to lay it down on the derailer, if it gets bent it wont switch gears like it should, if at all sometimes. they are easily the most fragile part of a mountain bike. and one of the most important.

  3. It would be kinda neat to put on one of those little generators that touches the tire to trickle charge it a bit when the battery gets low.

    that is an awesome idea and i second that lol. they have chargers that just need to be spun in order to generate electricity, im sure they have something already out there that can do it.

  4. you are both correct, and slightly incorrect lol, yeah my computer definitely isnt 100% (its my work computer and they wont upgrade it because it still "works", even though our warranty/repair time frame is like 2 years past) so it in general doesnt have a lot of RAM or memory like newer computers, so it takes longer for anything to work, especially if i have more than one program open, which of course i need multiple running to do my job... but its also the adds and all the extra code i assume needs to be in place for them to pop up that causes this site along with some others in particular to take EXTRA long. im sure it doesnt cause any lag for nicer comps, but its definitely the add software are all the visual graphics that go along with it that causes my computer to suck extra dick lol. its really crazy how much add software is EVERYWHERE, on EVERYTHING, on the internet. before any videos, on the top of every site, down the sides, and all are somehow tied into the cookies on your computer in order to adjust the adds to make the potentially more geared towards "you" and making you click the bait. it definitely causes computers that arent designed for this amount of hardware to run slower in general, and seem crappier even though they might not be totally obsolete.

    Untitled_zpstpru2im0.jpg

    this is what is constantly keeping my computer "thinking" and not able to complete the load of the page for sometimes minutes.

  5. I don't have an AMM-1 yet :'(

    But what do you mean by "what is the most efficient orientation"? Like, direction of subs and port? Center or side port? Slot vs aero? That kind of stuff? Just trying to understand what you meant, cause if its those, I'd like to understand how that would change the power factor. Thanks! Sorry if it's a thread jack.

    i meant more towards the size of the enclosure, along with the size of the port, affecting the mechanical compliance of the subwoofer and either negatively or positively helping it stay linear and efficient. the reason i was so surprised is because the power factor is so high, yet by the time i reach full tilt in this enclosure between 30hz-34hz, the sub is bottoming out due to it being right at the limit for maximum recommended airspace, and seeing almost double rated, yet still seeing a very good power factor.

  6. So i recently got my very own AMM-1, woo-hoo!!! i finally got around to putting it to use and im wondering what are some results every one else has seen... what im mainly interested in is what is the best/worst Power Factor youve seen. And is there anything you can do, other than rebuilding an enclosure to try and find what is the most efficient orientation, to try and increase the power factor you are seeing.

    I recently decided to throw one of my N2s in a single 12" box that is 2.5' and tuned to 36hz i believe. i had built it for a guy who was running 12" L7's but i ended up convincing him to run 4 x SA 8"s so i had the box laying around. i slapped a piece of wood over the square opening and threw the N2 in to see if i could blow it. (this thing is a fucking monster BTW and ive been unsuccessful for about a month of pure torture)

    right now i have it hooked up to a DD M3b at .5 nominal, now here is where it gets interesting. Ive always heard tall tales about how neo generally rises more blah blah blah, well currently from 30hz-40hz im only rising to 1ohm reactive, and the highest rise from 20hz-40hz is like 1.4... so i know im beating the shit out of the sub, on dyno mode i clamped around 3800 watts at 34hz. But what i really find most interesting, and wasnt expecting at all, is my power factor is like 95%?!?!?! so i stared to wonder, what is everyone else seeing for there power factor results? so lets hear some stories about the good and the bad :good::good:

  7. In Wisconsin you cant register or get plates for a vehicle without the genuine title. Bill of sale will not work. And cant even get temporary plates. So i had to apply for a Title Bond, which will allow me to register it and get plates. Huge pain in the ass. Just talked to the DMV the other day and she said it could be up to 6 weeks for them to process the application.

    fukkkkkkk, that blows

  8. Where is the best place to wire the VM-1, are most of you guys hooking it up directly to the power, ground, remote of your amp? Should I want the actual read out of my battery/alternator or the output from the amp? I will not be using the cig adapter.

    Thanks,

    Keagan

    if you want to monitor your amplifier, than the best place you can wire it is directly to the +/- terminals, and the remote turn on.

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