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02Blazer
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Posts posted by 02Blazer
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1 hour ago, audiofanaticz said:
Knukonceptz actually does have some UL listed wire, and can be verified on the UL site. Sadly it's just for in wall use speaker wire but it's more than most companies are doing.
As for the China made wire argument, the vast majority of wire coming from there is legit and copper, with some brands being better than others. So as long as you stay with a solid brand name you should be fine and get quality wire without other fillers.There was a bunch of wire brands tested independently by a fellow bass head a few years ago that had access to one of those $20,000 XRF scanners that can tell you everything that is in the wire.
From what I recall the Sundown XS Power Knu Kicker SHCA Kicker etc brands where all around the top of the list and pretty much on par with what wire should be. A couple US made welding cable was tested too. One company tested with a lot of silicon and the people selling this wire pretty much blackmailed the guy testing the wire, harassed his employment trying to get him fired, tried to get him kicked out of college, etc until he finally pulled down his information. Oddly enough if you look at the quality brands of welding cable they say silicone free but apparently the stuff they are selling is not.
what welding cable brand that had silicone in it ??? just for informing others , i don't use welding cable .
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On 12/4/2022 at 10:29 AM, jessdabest77 said:
Okay I think I really need to do more research into welding cable. At the end, I really don’t want to save a few bucks now and later pay for it twice. I don’t want to invest money and time into and later do it all over again. Thank you for your help and advice
that kinda what your doing sorry to say .
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why did you need 100 feet of power wire ?? how many runs you doing ? i have 2 runs of positive from battery delete to lithium bank in back and two frame grounds from bank to frame (already had big three) and three positive runs ,three negative runs all 2 feet each . i bought 40 ft. of positive(red) wire &16 ft. of negative wire(black) , what i'm saying is that i hope you're measuring out what you need and buying it rather then just buying it by the spool , might save you some money and then could afford better cable .
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make sure you use glue lined heat shrink , welding cable is not tinned . to each is own , i would never buy welding cable because it's not as flexible and also , what i just mentioned , it's not tinned . i have thousands invested in subs , mids , tweeters , amps , head unit , etc.. a shit ton of other accessories like battery terminals , lugs, lithium banks , enclosure etc.. no way i'm gonna try to cheap out and save a few bucks on electrical !! don't take it wrong , use what you like and can afford , i do , but use the right tool for the job . 👍
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1 hour ago, jessdabest77 said:
Hey guys I know this probably has been discussed before but hopefully you guys can give me your experience on this question. I want to buy two 50’ rolls of O gauge power wire and honestly because of cost, if I bought welding cable, would it be possible for a system pushing around 8k watts? I really like knuconceptz wire but I have so much more to buy is why I’m asking about the welding cable. Thanks in advance.
stick with the Knuconceptz , welding cable is too stiff to work with to me
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need a E400.4 ?? got a new in the box one , never used , hit me up , getting rid of it cheap
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they look to be the same tinsel material , just one weave was puller tighter then the other , meaning the wider one's weave is looser if you can envision that.
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had a similar experience with jims , i ended up buying similar product from Toolmaker and i am very happy i did !! as far as machined parts and other accessories , i stick with SMD and Toolmaker ...
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can you change my name from toyonbags to 02Blazer , please! thank you
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put a d2700 in there , you should be able to fit it
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12 hours ago, Mr DeeBeez said:
I used aquarium air tubing from ace hardware. Forget what diameter.
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9 hours ago, Kyblack76 said:
Had duals on my blazer also,.. no fuse from alts to posts.. meh..
Nice work Ty. Good shit. I would do caps over anything also.
thanks , i'll just run it without the fuse , just a Mechman 240 like the one in the build
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On 1/21/2016 at 5:35 AM, Mr DeeBeez said:
Got my 240a mechman alt! Only took 11 days from when I ordered it, till it was at my door! Only took about 30 min to install and now my voltage holds at 14.0 pretty well. Lowest I've seen it go so far is high 13's!
i also have a blazer and am about to do the big three , i see you didnt fuse the power wire to the alternator , do you think it should be fused ?? i know it's only a 12''-14'' run of wire and to me , putting a fuse between seems not nessasary , is that what you thought ?
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On 12/1/2015 at 7:52 AM, Mr DeeBeez said:
Rear window was slapping around a lot and making a lot of rattles so I ran some 1/8" tuning in the weather stripping to make a tighter seal, and it's all gone now! Worked like a charm.
Got my tail lights in and installed. Looks so much better than the dull stock ones!
can you give me a link to what kind of tubing you used for the rear glass please 1
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amazing deal !!! will be ordering one on friday , going in a 2002 s10 blazer , going to be powering 2 orion amps ( 1500.1DZ & 500.4 ) the sale is perfect timing .cant wait ...
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i under stand what your saying about the pan hard bar. and wide means as long as possible (larger dia. arch) with the mounts wide..far side of axle and as close to frame as possible. not mounted half way down axle and inside of frame. i have little more offset 18's on it now.. more clearance.
Not really worried about extreme lift thought. just smooth ride and good handling. purpose of the rear bar is for compounding weight. lift may not be but 7-9 inches but smooth as a caddy. hopefully.
edit: if i air way up i'll kick out to one side but not rolling fast. so it doesn't mean much to me.
good luck then , hope it turns out the way you want it , just keep in mind what i said
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what the hell do you need 800$ arms for?? I have stock modified uppers an lowers cost me maybe 50 bucks in metal an a friend thats a welder to weld them up..
i mentioned the Cando arms cause i feel anyone looking into using Air Ride Tech. stuff is not trying to have to much fabbed and wants a DIY kinda setup .....
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if it was me , i would not use shockwaves for anything , use some 6" bags up front , those shockwaves' cost is ridiculus !!!! if i were you i would call up Cando Specialties and get some control arms from them for 760 bucks and buy some Slam Specialties RE6 bags , done deal
here is the link for Cando Specialties , they have parts for nissans - http://www.candospecialties.com/
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which ever side the panhard bar is connected to the frame , when the vehicle is raised up , the axle will move the same way . the more lift , the more side to side travel . panhard bars are very popular on hotrods cause they have short ranges of travel . when you are looking at up to 10-15" of travel on most truck air suspensions , the panhard bar is just not a viable option .
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why wouldn't i make the top one shorter slightly. it's for roll steer right? so one side doesn't go forward and one back when cornering. ??? idk. but that makes my job easier.
Angle them to "meet/cross" at the front bumper and level the bottom link at ride height. That's what i've got so far... the dog bone is really just going to end up being like a rear hanger (two pieces of flat metal) and one bushing off the axle and one off the bag lift bar...so figuring the lenght will be as easy as drilling holes and moving it.. don't work try again. get it right build a pretty set...
Pan hard is going to be so wide i won't even have .3inch l/r travel so once i get it set so it's as far as i want it to one side all down and in the middle at ride height it won't rub... my other option is a watts link and i don't want to spend that much more money. No triangles no wishbones. behind axle is only for batts.. gas tank stays put.. i mean raised... and muffler ocupies other side of axle.
Thank you for your input... this really is a dead area in the SMD world. Not much to talkabout in this area huh???
for the "roll steer" you are talking about , the triangluted bars or panhard bar takes care of that . the reason for the same size bars ( take a triangulated 4-link for example , the lower bars and the triangulated bars need to be the same length ) is to keep proper the proper pinion angle thru the axis(travel) of the 4-link .
as far as the muffler/exhaust , you should have the end of the exhaust (muffler tip) end about a foot before the axle . for the end of the tip , use a turn down (aimed either at the ground or at least away from gas lines , airline and bags or any thing else that will be affected by the heat )
and about the panhard bar , what do you mean by it being "wide" ???
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the dogleg length will be determined by your wheel size ..
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as far as the length of the 4-link bars , keep them as close to the same length as you can !!!! if you say you have only a 1/4" space between your tire/wheel to your quarter panel , i really don't think you should go with the panhard bar , but that is your choice . if it was me , i would not even consider it .......
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You can use an engine driven, the only problem is they use oil, you have to keep oil in them, and keep the oil out of your air tank. It can be done, but it is a lot of work. I wouldnt say its any cheaper to do, but EDC are much faster.
As far as the low and fast as hell ride, this can be done also, but its very expensive to go fast on air, most people wanting to scrape the floor of their ride don't care about passing traffic on the freeway
i don't know about you but there is nothing better than flyin' down the freeway doing 100 mph dragging , throwing a mean ass shower of sparks
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The idea is cool and all but I personally would not go this route because it robs the engine of power and fuel mileage. And who wants a low n slow ride when you can be low and fast as hell.
that is not accurate at all !!! you might lose 1 hp , not even noticeable .these compressors have clutches on them so there is no power lost when they are not filling the tank . it takes about 35-55 seconds to fill a 5 gallon tank to about 200-250 psi , that's if it's empty , to refill the tank (when the pressure switch is activated ) it will take half of that . so to say you would lose gas milelage and horsepower is simply not true
Cost wise on power wire?
in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
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