-
Posts
406 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Videos
Posts posted by Dragonsyph
-
-
1 hour ago, newls1 said:
Very few games now support SLi and you might actually GAIN performance in games by getting rid of the 2nd 2080ti. SLi was such a huge boost of sales and marketing for nvidia a few years after they bought 3DFX, and in 2006 with the launch of the 6800U in PCIe allowed them to bring back the "SLi" name since it was property of 3DFX prior to nvidia buying them out and killing them. Steve, I wouldn't give bad advise.... other then benchmarks like 3dmark, and rendering software coded to use GPU acceleration, and few other niche software programs that can use SLi (some DX12 titles as well) SLi is actually hampering performance as it IS A HUUUGGGEEEEE driver overhead. Games just arent coded anymore and driver SUPPORT SUCKS SOMETHING TERRIBLE FOR IT! If you get board, pull the slave card out, and bench any given game that you actually "PLAY" and see where your FPS are at.. might be surprised by an actual frame boost. Worst case senario, you will see you were getting (for example 120fps with what ever game you bench) with BOTH cards in... remove 2nd card, Bench game again, and now you are getting 118FPS! Just saying... a $1000 GPU giving you an extra 2fps... see where im going here? I have a 2080ti as well in a 3950x build (obviously all watercooled with multi loops) Ive played with SLi for nearly every generation of nvidia GPU, and since Pascal... SLi support is just GONE!
EDIT.. also make sure you are using driver 445.75 or 445.78 as they introduced DLSS 2.0 with MASSSSSIVE GAINS of performance for titles that use DLSS.. So little heads up there. IF you still have my number, hit me up anytime if need any help
Hmmm my 1080 ti sli has worked in all most all games iv tried, and most of the time I get 50-90% scaling.
- 1
-
Great pc but those gpus need water blocks for sure.
-
Aftermarket alternator and the big 4 done?
-
On 3/16/2020 at 4:20 AM, never knows best said:
your not overthinking this at all.....
pretty sure, like you even said yourself, you have one of the most common trucks on the road. this is not a new problem... or even a problem at all-
by now could have rearranged your engine bay and jammed multiple batteries in there...
but now tell us about how xs is too expensive and youll just get an craptacular poop battery blah blah blaaaaaaahhh
Hhahahahaahah EPIC.
-
Virgin lead > recycled lead
-
-
Aww ok, not sure what it could be. I have had two amps go out and before they did they were sending a dirty signal that made the sub sound like it was rattling at low volume. Hope you figure it out because that shit is annoying.
-
Could it be the amp sending a dirty signal?
-
Put old alt in and the problem went away, so it has to be the Mechman alt. It even idles smoother. Gonna be sending it in here soon.
If it was the battery's it would do it with any alt right?
-
On 1/11/2020 at 3:26 PM, Acesound1990 said:
Hey man that sucks! <img src=">
But don't worry it may be something that can be easily explained and quickly remedied. <img src=">
If you have unexplained strain on the alt/ voltage drop of any type. One thing to do is to check your batteries. If you have a corrupted cell then you may be dumping current into a battery that will never hold that charge. This in turn can cause you alt to overwork to try to maintain its voltage under a constant load.
One way to check if this is the issue is to isolate the components of the system.
Start by testing the battery under a load tester or "battery health tester" at your local auto parts store. (This should be a free service)
Ill try that out then, Mechman said i can send it and and they will take a look at it because it wont even put out rated voltage of 14.9, it barly can keep it at 14.5.........
Ill try it with the d3100 then try it with the d3400 and see if theres a differance. ANd im gonna swap to stock alt and see if it stops too.
-
Ya i put a brand new belt and it still does it, iv sent mechman messages and they dont respond.
-
2 minutes ago, Mike4068 said:
Full disclosure I am by no means a mechanic
It’s all good I’m thankful for all the input.
-
Just now, Mike4068 said:
Spray some belt dressing on the belt and see if that helps before you get a new one. If it helps then get one
Wondering why though it’s only out putting 14.5 instead of 14.8. I can also see if I rev it up then let the Rpms drop back to idle I can see a voltage drop into the 13s for a second.
-
1 minute ago, Mike4068 said:
Loose ground? Loose belt?
Grounds are good, I might try a new belt and see if that helps, at this point I’m lost.
-
My head lights, dash lights, instrument cluster lights all flicker at idle and my voltage read out only hits 14.5 now instead of 14.8.
it only does this at idle, no amp in the car so no stereo playing while it’s happening.
voltage gauge I dash goes up and down also with the flickering.
is the alternator going bad??
it didn’t do this for the first 5 months or so I had it.
370 elite in an 05 tahoe and it has 1 wire that goes to acc power.
-
Just make sure if you change any setting in ur deck and I mean any setting to recheck rca out distortion.
I had all mine set and unhooked the battery’s to work on wiring upgrades and for some reason it reset all my setting in my deck which has never happened before.
I ended up blowing a coil because time alignment got turned in by default and caused me to clip at volume 32 and I had it set to 40 going full blast. So 8 past clipping lol.
250 dollar mistake I will never do again, I almost cried when it happened. Now at any high volume it makes a loud ping sound, and if you push down on the dust cap you can hear it rubbing on something.
Glade a drop in kit for an NSV4 is only 250 when the sub cost 1150 dollars.
-
1 hour ago, CstrokerV said:
Just because there was more people in here trying to help...and then boom nothing .but another reply from you not saying anything about the last posts
Shredder has been helping me out a ton through emails, was just easier that way then to come on here. He’s also the one who designed my bad ass box.
-
On 7/17/2019 at 7:47 AM, Kyblack76 said:
^^^^^ that... I hate using deck power to run anything. Get a small dedicated amp for the mids a d highs. One of the best upgrades you, or anyone can do mate. Deck power blows.
For sure, and a nice 4 channel and set of speakers don’t cost to much. Def my next thing to buy, maybe some more dyno matting.
-
3 minutes ago, CstrokerV said:
How come you totally ignores everything people asked and commented?
Was talking to him in emails why?
-
Can you use the dd1 in music and get a good reading of distortion? Or is music not valid for the dd1 , like if it says track 1 on cd don’t distort tell 40 but playing a music cd I’ll get distortion readings low as 30 from dd1. Are those readings valid??
-
Using the dd1 through rca and through amp speaker out puts with gain at 0 using track 1 it shows no distortion light all the way up to max volume which is 40.
If i play music at anything above 35 though you hear extreme distortion in all the door speakers. Is there something I’m doing wrong or are speaker outnputs and rca out puts different?!
-
It should work with any signal, but I’m no expert on the device.
- 1
-
18 minutes ago, cloucks87 said:
yes. would be a little more power with 2x 12’s. but the 15’s get that low low bass. i love the low frequency rumble.
have you already made up your mind then? If you love the lows then id suggests a Sundown NSV4.
-
Wow I knew there was a big voltage loss but u never knew cca got that hot.
Problem with CC-1 & DD-1
in D'Amore Engineering - High Quality Car Audio Installation Tools & Accessories
Posted
This might be dumb but did you have the base knob turned up?