WalledSonic

CES's primary business is electric motor repair, which brings in 10x the revenue that the alternators do.  CES will be just fine without Jon.  Jon's gonna start his own company apparently next week.  I cant believe he did what he did at CES for only $70k/yr.  Thats crazy; totally not enough for the epic CS he offered.  I'd message their business page in the middle of the night (not his personal DM), and he would jump in and reply at like 3am.  He took the time to explain the difference between the 3 phase motors I'm accustomed to and the 6 phase alts that we all enjoy.  Definitely some of the best CS in audio.  Yes, a few companies (Mike, Dan, etc) make alts as good as CES/Jon, but none offer his level of CS.

There is wayyyyyy to much to explain to get you up to speed.  You need to read a lot more so that you understand the data.  There are countless tutorials if you search google, please start there and let us know if you have design questions related to your specific setup.  It doesnt make sense to run a design if you dont yet understand the fundamentals of whats going on.

Theres also a strong chance the TS Parameters werent entered correctly (for a variety of reasons) and that will invalidate any data you produce.

Did you intend to design a parallel 6th?  Thats an acceptable decision, but parallel 6ths are much less popular than series 6ths so I'm wondering if you purposely chose the parallel 6th or are you running that since series 6ths werent an option in WinISD.

I like that youre making an attempt to DIY, but you'll need to get yourself caught up so that we can have a productive discussion.

EDIT: also post a visual of your TS Parameter inputs and the webpage you got the values from.

easy.  just wall it off.

The quality of posts here are about as bad as IJWB on FB.  I come here for a reprieve from FB and end up just closing the browser window altogether.  My only solace is going back to OLD build logs.

Git it dude. Im welding structure to my front and back windshield seam.  Go ahead and stitch up anything that flexes on your car while youre at it.

God damn bimmerking.  Heavy shit.

imo, the "durability" you mention just came from the old-way of designing things.  The good ol days of overengineering.  If thats true, a new pushrod v8 may be just as unreliable as a new OHC design.  Just thoughts.  From a fundamental standpoint, ohc is superior in every way.  I bet if you were able to design a badass version of each, the increased system mass of pushrods would limit high end rpm and increase wear at all mating faces. Interesting to see what they come up with

why would you want pushrods?  OHC ftw.  Im not arguing about big displacement, or Murica, just the pushrod part.

Have you read the manual? 

Pun not intended @Quiet

His avatar kinda gives him away lmao

He's "Quiet" now.

Hey Wish dont send it to dB-r, by the way.  If you end up sending it off, send it to Steve at Amp Medics.  Best in the game and dude knows Ampere better than damn near anyone here in the states.

@Wishuponasub

Need details man.  What was the cause?

Have you really even lived then?

@walledbmr91 wheres the build log??

Gonna add some speakers with dat amp??

Oh shit you meant the clear panel.  Yeah I just ordered 1/8" polycarbonate sheet from Amazon and cut them myself with a jigsaw, and then drilled the holes with the original metal back as a template.  Took maybe an hour to do them.

Sup man?  I designed them in CAD and had them cut at a local waterjet shop.  Then for the bolts, nuts, washers, and spacers... I ordered all of it from McMaster Carr.  Let me know if you have more questions.

I dont mean to be a pest. Seems legit now.. Thanks a bunch man!

also, smd regular theme is jacked on mobile. Everything is out of place and the right side banner is gone. Dark theme works like regular theme used to

IMO chatbox is nice bc you can watch the board and chat at the same time. Convenient for both mobile and being incognito at work

Doesnt seem like the user name and password from SMD Forum work there, huh?

Yeah its muy jodido

Yep loose RCAs near the bass knob were popping the amp with spike voltage and sending it to protect. I’d like to thank my DMM for helping me diagnose that so quickly haha

As a rule, just make sure if any run of wire shorted to the frame, then all paths to the batteries get broken. So yes both ends of thst run need a breaker since theres a battery on both ends