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Joshdashef

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Everything posted by Joshdashef

  1. Think of overlap as allowing you to set your gains higher with a negative overlap because the signal coming from your radio is -5 or -10 dbs lower than at original 0 db source volume. Music is dynamic so the purpose is to allow you to get more out of your amp with music A moderate amount is -5db so you should be fine with that, or go with a higher one and just pay attention to how your sub sounds / smells.
  2. If you tune at flat eq you will not distort at 39 but will at 40. Adjust those settings and your distortion point will change, aka you are adding your own "gain" boost to the music from the headunit instead of at the amp when you change eq settings. You can adjust the eq to your preference, say you want more mid range than highs - do that, then tune to find your new distortion point.
  3. Diagrams should help explain this. Essentially whatever sub you get usually has dual (two) voice coils. You wire those in a certain way to get a nominal resistance (what your amp will see). All diagrams from this: https://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/subwoofer-wiring-diagrams.asp Just remember wiring in series doubles resistance, parallel halves it. With more woofers you can get some more complicated wiring but essentially use the above website to double check yourself. Say you buy a Dual 2 ohm woofer. Running a single one will let you get either 1ohm or 4 ohms nominal now if you had a dual 4 ohm woofer you can wire it to either 2 ohms or 8 ohms. say you wanted four woofers and wanted a final nominal load of 1 ohm. Here you would want to run four 2 ohm woofers to reach 1 ohm. If you had four 4 ohm woofers you would end up at either 0.5 or 2 ohms.... not to be desired sorry for such a long post on my phone between classes Rn. But hope this helps you visualize the differences in wiring your subs. Doesn’t hurt to double check!
  4. @Currency 480 Welcome to the forum! If you would like assistance with your Fox Acoustics box please refer to creating your own thread > press the create button at the top right next to your name and select the appropriate section (in this case Equipment > Subwoofers / Enclosures. - I've ran those P3D4 12s before and you've got a nice amp and wiring kit for a great install. However, I don't see any upgraded electrical items (batteries or alternators). You will definitely want to upgrade at-least to a secondary rear reserve battery.
  5. Weird. Are all RCA connections in the back of the headunit snug? are they in the right orientation, as in one pair of RCAs in each L/R of a channel? Do you have any kind of muting of RCA channels as an option in the headunit? Mine can mute anyone I want but it doesn't make it abundantly clear at first.
  6. From my understanding you either run a trunk setup sealed fired into cabin or not sealed fired backwards (trunk lid) for optimal SPL. I would favor sealed fired into cabin since it lessens the rattles but that's just me. As far as your question about stacking specific types of sound deadener you might get some insight from @Second Skin they know their stuff.
  7. Were the P3 15s sealed? You might be suprised at the output of two SA12s ported instead of 15s sealed
  8. I didn’t even see that. Maybe @audiofanaticz can chime in. He sells some of these meters
  9. The purpose of this tool is to enable the user to: Measure True Amplifier Power output into any load reactive or resistive Measure Common DC voltages Measure DC voltage drops during quick transients on cable runs or battery / charging systems Measure Impedance of speakers at any power or frequency from 20Hz - 1kHz (box rise) Measure Phase Difference between Voltage and Current into reactive loads (Power Factor) Find Tuning Frequency of subwoofer enclosures Tune subwoofer enclosures for maximum power transfer Measure AC Volts (amplifier output) Measure AC Amps (amplifier output) Measure apparent power (VA) output, Phase Angle, and Real Power (Watts) of audio amplifier, or consumption of appliances that run on AC power Measure Frequency of a Sine Wave https://www.wccaraudio.com/smd-audio-multimeter-amm-1.html Nothing about distortion detection from what I can tell
  10. Sundowns good. Use to wonder what the hype was but then I got a pair of their subs.... gotta say I’m on the sundown train now (atleast subs) can’t say anything about their amps
  11. Rockford prime 500.1 with a single 12.
  12. Uhh my manual says this "5. Using included harness, connect DD-1 to output of amplifier. Connect the red harness lead to the Left Speaker (+) terminal, connect the black to Left Speaker (-). " Not amplifier ground, I have no clue where you got that from
  13. He must have had a reason for telling you that, can't say I know why. Safer side would be the 0 overlap so I would give that a try, and if you don't hear any bottoming out then you could keep it or tune it with -2.5 overlap and check for any bottoming out once again.
  14. 5 cubic net sealed box? Seems pretty big for those subs Those P3s call for 1.58 cubes per, so 3.16 cubes, +/- some if you want to have the suspension move easier, but I think 5 cubes might cause them to bottom out especially with over rated power.
  15. Some people charge weekly, some biweekly, some everyday. Does your voltage dip really low? If not weekly or biweekly should be fine. If you dip below 13.6 I’d charge it as soon as you can
  16. I have a D5100R in the front under hood and a D3400 in my rear. Can I hook up the xs charger to the front battery and charge both at the same time? or should I charge each separately like I have been doing? At the same time I mean leaving the two connected via two runs of 1/0 fused and grounded through the cars frame to each other with the xs charger pos/neg cables connected to the front or rear battery only. Just wondering if it'll be okay or if itll cause the charging cycle to mess up. Cheers.
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