[March Into Spring with a Quiet Ride 😎]

Perfect timing for me! Need some of that heat proofing material you have for a headliner  

[Get your Black Friday game face on]

😁 I think this will do for the next build 

[Major Flex Inside! Skar Audio 12" Pre-Loaded, Slot Ported Box Pushed Hard on 1200 Watts]

9 hours ago, 1point21gigawatts said:

{redacted}

Gotta say though that Skar box is super clean for a pre-built and a decent price, if you consider the cost of wood tools, at 180$

[Single evl 18 box design help]

https://www.skaraudio.com/products/evl-18-inch-car-subwoofer?variant=30196958733

• Recommended Ported Volume: 3.75 ~ 4.50 ft³  

 

No specs on displacement, but for an 18 I would assume between .15 and .3 cubic feet.

 

 

You're going to want to include what power you plan on running along with maximum dimensions

[I was watching a video.. Thought I recognized something]

That's pretty cool to see on such a behemoth 

[DD-1 Source Files Download (MP3 320/FLAC/m4a or Apple Lossless) / How to add them to local spotify playlist for phone]

On 7/20/2020 at 5:41 PM, NeverFail said:

Thank you so much for providing the instructions, it looks like the mp3 folder in onedrive is actually empty.  Any chance you could re-upload those files?

Sorry Onedrive must have broke 🤦‍♂️ I have re-uploaded the 320 mp3s but you can always find these tracks on the manufacturers website here: https://www.wccaraudio.com/downloads

[How Do U Know When Your Belt Tensioner Is Going Bad?]

12 year old thread lol 

[XS Power Battery Wattage Guide]

4 hours ago, #Patriot76 said:

So when calculating the rms for battery size, do I take the rms of the amps or speakers. 

If you want more advice for your electrical system a new thread will help you more, but when you are determining the power you will be drawing you will look at the amps outputting that power. Not the subwoofer/speakers receiving the power. 

[TM-1 Wiring]

 👀🍿

[SMD Tool Map (New November 2014)]

Forgot to add to this old post, but I made a 2020 tool map. Not just for your SMD tools, so feel free to comment on this post below and include stuff beyond your DD-1 like a table saw or RTA mic etc.

Cheers!

 

[Spring Sale 20% Off All Products]

6 minutes ago, tysonwang011 said:

What about this year's sale? I saw there but I couldn't find any deal related to 2020, Please if sale will announce then tell me the date, I wanna buy some stuff for my cars, I already bought some props from RiteCoupons.com by using this code " car991" and got 40% discount o, but I need more things, my friend told me about this sale, but I didn't find anywhere.

If you need it now just buy it. Otherwise wait for a sale, SecondSkin has always posted there sales on their instagram, facebook, and even here... if you missed it you weren't looking hard enough. 

[DD-1 Source Files Download (MP3 320/FLAC/m4a or Apple Lossless) / How to add them to local spotify playlist for phone]

1 hour ago, ditch said:

Hey guys,

Im struggling here...I’m pretty sure I have blown my sub RE XXX15 Dual 2 ohm, sealed box built to spec for sub.  I knew there was good potential for it so it’s not really a surprise.  I initially dialed it in with the DD1 and CC1 running a sundown SCV3000.  It’s definitely more than the sub can handle and I was aware of that.

So, I zeroed the amp out and went to retune it but my phone (Galaxy S9 and my iPad Pro will not generate a tone under 100Hz (think that’s the frequency, may have been higher).  I went to D’Amore and downloaded the tones so they should be fine.

 

I tried the CC1 hooked directly to speaker terminals and directly to the incoming RCAS and it isn’t detecting a signal either way.

I have a multi meter but didn’t get to that to test the resistance on the sub or output of amp yet.
So, I’m looking for suggestions in a couple of areas...

1. A good sub that will handle 3000 watts (I only have space for one)

2. How to generate a low frequency test tone without a CD player.  I have Spotify but, holy crap I don’t even want to think about going through the above steps to get a tone<img src=">

3. Any suggestions on the best way to determine if it’s my amp or sub.  The next step in my mind short of pulling the sub out to inspect it (giant pain in my A$$) is unhook the speaker outs on the amp, turn it up and check output voltage.

 

Im open to any suggestions or criticism to help get me pounding again.

 

 Thank you very much!

Hey man welcome to the forum. If you want to get more help please start a new thread. 

 

A couple tips till then;

1. put a multi meter on your subwoofer and see if it still reads 2 ohms at each voice coil or each pair of pos/neg (can be a little different than 2 exactly). Also can you move the cone downward at all? or is it frozen in place? So long as you can move it and hear no rubbing like the coils rubbing you could still have a perfectly good sub. 
2. check your fuses, wires, grounds, and rcas to make sure you haven't gotten any issues with the amp or signal. 
3. Check your filters on your radio and amp. If you feel like you can't get anything below 100Hz to play you might have a High Pass Filter at 100ish Hz stopping all frequencies below that from playing. 

Here you can see the differences between a High Pass and Low Pass Filter. High Pass allows for frequencies above a set point to play normally, attenuating those below it. While a Low Pass does the opposite. Attenuates everything to be quieter above a set point while keeping the frequencies below a set point at normal levels. 

1. I went through that whole spotify rabbit hole because I just wanted the files on my phone instead of having to deal with another device, but you can easily put the files you download off D'Amores website onto a USB drive or SD card (whatever your radio has compatibility for) instead of a CD player since you don't have one. 
2. Sub brands you may want to look at for that power rating include, Fi, DC, Sundown... to name only a few. Really my opinion is to find out what you want from this sub then find a sub that can do that, low frequencies monster? great numbers on the meter for competing? or just simply SQL where you have a great frequency response of your subwoofer for more of a sound quality loud. 

[TM-1 Wiring]

On 5/6/2020 at 6:56 PM, JonBob said:

I just received TM-1 and need a little help with the wiring. I've included a picture of the wires and of the instruction in the background for reference. The included instructions say that the RED wire is POWER, is that correct? The only red wire is a super small (maybe 16 gauge or smaller) wire that is part of the 3 wire bundle. How is that supposed to go with the included yellow fuse and wire which is a much larger gauge. The WHITE wire is TRIGGER according to the instructions and BLACK is GROUND, is that correct? They are both 2 separate larger wires not part of the 3 wire bundle. Now here's the really confusing part... I'm left with small BLACK and YELLOW wires that are part of the 3 wire bundle. The instructions state that I should be left with a BLACK and GREY as fan - and fan +, respectively, but I don't have a GREY wire at all.  Can you guys/gals give me a hand with this set up? I don't want to screw something up and void the warranty. 

 

Thanks in advance for your help! 

 

 

@SnowDrifter Got any clue if this is an old unit or something? Wiring isn’t matching any documentation. 

[TM-1 Wiring]

12 minutes ago, JonBob said:

That's just the thing, my wires don't match up with the instructions. I have large black and white wires, not black and grey. I can assume they swapped white for grey. And the wires you list as "red, black, white" are red, black, yellow on my unit. I can also assume that the "white" is now yellow, ok I can handle that lol. The super small red wire that is supposed to have the inline fuse, the supplied inline wire is so much larger! It's the same size as the black and white wires. Is that correct? I'm supposed to connect that tiny ass red wire to the much larger inline fuse wire? 

 

I've searched all over the interwebs for anything showing me exactly how to connect this thing and there's nothing. Sure, there's plenty of videos of the TM-1 in action, but not a thing on installs

I think its weird man but I think you are suppose to use that supplied in line fuse (bigger yellow) into the smaller red. Kinda funky if you ask me

[TM-1 Wiring]

Think the booklet is wrong man. Maybe an old unit? SMD stuff is pretty solid so probably a mix up.
 

Before you install test it on the bench. Those three small wires are grouped for a reason I assume. See if any have tiny writing on them saying switched 12v or ground or constant source etc.

 

I would test tiny wires as your red (power) with black (ground) and yellow as your switched. If that fails keep the same ground on tiny black wire and switch the red and yellow wires around so red is now your trigger or switched 12v and yellow is your constant fused 12v source

 

then your fan wires are the bigger wires black (fan ground) and grey/white (fan positive)

 

 

Best of luck! Let us know how it turns out

[Problem with CC-1 & DD-1]

6 hours ago, CommonSyns said:

Well I figured I'd make one last attempt to get help through the forums, I've sent an email, multiple actually but never got a reply once. I was told, from a reliable source that if I emailed the support on wccaraudio then the techs had gotten my email and were looking at it. Never heard back from support and I have not heard back from the reliable source, even after dming and pinging them in a chat. 

 

I also sent wccaraudio an email from two different emails, both of which work and are used on a constant basis. So not total sure why I never got an answer. 

Hey man SMD products have some of the best customer service imo. The dd-1 and cc-1 have gotten firm ware updates and likely physical component updates across the years since 2013 so I think you need to simply get them sent in for a tune up or replacement of the face plate. 

 

I would send your original purchase invoice to D'Amore Enginnering through their facebook and or email them as well. 

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/DAmoreEngineering/

 

Also, ask about this: https://damore-engineering.myshopify.com/collections/parts-store/products/total-overhaul

I was looking on their website a while back and saw they had this tune up / total overhaul for 35$. A small price for renewing a 7 year old device

Best of luck!

[Sealed vs ported]

I think I understand what your wanting to do but let me save you the head ache of trying to create an airtight connection between a ported portion of a 4th order and the sealed section you already have.... If you do decide to go for a 4th order start with a new box imoh then you can easily adjust the ratio without any limiting factors like the current box dimensions you have

[How to contact Steve Meade?]

2 hours ago, Squirrelinc said:

I purchased one of your dd1s and my radio is distorting at volume 18. Is this the head unit? It is a kenwood  kmmbt240-u... no matter how I adjust it,  it is was distorting. Do you think i need a new head unit and if so, would you recommend?  I have 2sdr skar 12s and a rp1500.1d skar amp.  Trying to play them correctly,  don't know what to do. (please help )lol Thanks have a nice day.

Hey man this thread is from ~9 years ago. If you have a question about tuning your radio with the DD-1 please just make a new post titled something like "Help with DD1 tuning"

 

Top right of main page says "+ Create" > then select topic, scroll down till you see Equipment and click it > then click Head Units-Processors and Eq's

Cheers, J

[Wait WTF ???]

6 hours ago, Kyblack76 said:

Weird,..

I measure, and stick the biggest fucking cell I can get in. I got a d3100 in a stock Acura (yes, up front) 

I look at space, not their guide line, and stick the biggest fucking thing I can wedge in. 

You fit a D fucking 3100 in an Acura o.0? 

[Wait WTF ???]

Just get a battery that has a little smaller dimensions than your current battery 🤦‍♂️ if one doesn't fit then just find one that will regardless of the brand? Why you gotta bash a brand because they can't provide a product that is within a hair of your very specific and important trucks battery tray? They offer 19 different sizes of D series AGMs, so yes they have one that will fit in your truck but nobody is forcing you to buy an XS AGM. 

 

[New Second Skin Branded Videos on YouTube]

Such a good resource for people just getting into the hobby! Well done @Second Skin👌

[Bought DD-1. Need guidance on setup]

6 hours ago, Scotnemily said:

One function of an EQ that is commonly overlooked is to set the gains with it flat, then instead of boosting the frequencies you want, you can lower the ones you don’t want. If done in this fashion it want introduce distortion the same as boosting signals.  

I like this much better, might steal this idea for a rebuild

[DD-1 tuning help]

Think of overlap as allowing you to set your gains higher with a negative overlap because the signal coming from your radio is -5 or -10 dbs lower than at original 0 db source volume. 

 

Music is dynamic so the purpose is to allow you to get more out of your amp with music

 

A moderate amount is -5db so you should be fine with that, or go with a higher one and just pay attention to how your sub sounds / smells. 

 

 

[Bought DD-1. Need guidance on setup]

If you tune at flat eq you will not distort at 39 but will at 40.

Adjust those settings and your distortion point will change, aka you are adding your own "gain" boost to the music from the headunit instead of at the amp when you change eq settings. 

 

You can adjust the eq to your preference, say you want more mid range than highs - do that, then tune to find your new distortion point. 

[D2 or D4?]

Diagrams should help explain this. Essentially whatever sub you get usually has dual (two) voice coils. You wire those in a certain way to get a nominal resistance (what your amp will see). 

All diagrams from this: https://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/subwoofer-wiring-diagrams.asp

Just remember wiring in series doubles resistance, parallel halves it. With more woofers you can get some more complicated wiring but essentially use the above website to double check yourself.

 

Say you buy a Dual 2 ohm woofer. Running a single one will let you get either 1ohm or 4 ohms nominal 

 

now if you had a dual 4 ohm woofer you can wire it to either 2 ohms or 8 ohms.

 

say you wanted four woofers and wanted a final nominal load of 1 ohm. Here you would want to run four 2 ohm woofers to reach 1 ohm. If you had four 4 ohm woofers you would end up at either 0.5 or 2 ohms.... not to be desired

 

 

sorry for such a long post on my phone between classes Rn. But hope this helps you visualize the differences in wiring your subs. Doesn’t hurt to double check!