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Posts posted by AaronT
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You grounded a probe of dd1 to amp 12v ground?
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I'd just add another u10 and second saz 1500.
The tripple 8 box from Skar is filled with thier entry level subs.
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1 hour ago, ninjajack said:
I have one last question on this. Since I am still using the stock head unit and I had to use the PAC Ampro to integrate, is there anything I need to do to the ampro before I begin setting gains? Or can I leave it as it is set right now already in my truck?
Thanks for the help.
Yes, once you find clean volume on head unit, with that volume set your pac to 5 volts.
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You should find your distortion level of your deck but you do it through the amplifier.
the reason why you can plug the deck directly into the dd1 is if you aren't using an amplified system and you want to find your clean volume on it
but the correct way to do it with amplifiers is to see what that signal looks like coming out of the amplifier, and to accomplish that you hook the dd1 to the amplifier, turn your gain all the way down, then you crank your volume up until you see distortion.
Then back off volume one notch down, then set gains.
I recommend a 7.5-10db overlap
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You hook the dd1 to the amp. Gain down. Then turn volume on head unit till distOrion is detected, number below that is clean.
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Damn you friggin knocked that out the park
You look 20 years old without your hat on.
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I'm for between 32 and 36.
You'll fall somewhere in the middle.
Very hard to get exact unless you hand tune.
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Those are two completely different setups, no way can one compare the two in a "versus " format
Your talking a 5000 RMS 100lb sub on 5k versus 2 800 RMS 12" subs on 3k.
Yes the DC you should easily get 150. But really you should be able to squeeze 150 out of the rf setup as well.
The t1500 amps ain't no joke, at 1 ohm they are easily doing certified at around 2100 watts and can do around 3300 Watts each dynamic at 1 ohm
I'd personally run the DC lvl 6 18 on both of those t1500s gain matched.
I'd pick the d 0.7 ohm option for the DC and give each amp a coil.
I got 2 t1500s getting .7 ohm each from 4 meso 8s. They love .7 ohm
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I don't see why not, but as you know those adjustments are very sensitive, just pressure from the small flathead used to set gain can increase voltage to distortion point when close.
What I would do, to be precise and accurate is set at -5 with dd-1, tten stick a volt meter in there to measure voltage, then do the same with -10, measure voltage after setting -10 now take the difference of the 2 voltage readings and divide it. Put the - 10 track in and set the voltage that you come up with when you divided the difference between vtge 2
So here example
-5 setting gave voltage of 50
-10 gave voltage of 70
Difference of the 2 is 20.
Halve that, and you get 10
So your negative -7.5 db will be voltage of 60 using the -10bd track.
You'll need a digital multimeter for this.
I personally use amps that are guaranteed to do RMS and then some, such as RF t series amps and I use Amps that put out more than subs call for , So just dial in my voltage with a -5 track 40db at subs max RMS needed.
I know I could extract much more power with a dd1, and not have to overshoot so grossly with amp size in regards to subs, but I like not running my amps to thier max anyway. Keeps them nice and cool, and could literally play the system for probably 24 hours str8
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Actually now I wanna buy a set to give them a fair shake. Tonasty seems to say they are gtg I trust him from a SQ standpoint.
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Wow. Opinion. Plain and simple.
Heard them. Didn't think they where anything special. Could have been the install. But that was my opinion on then given what I heard
No need for the "aw cute" bullshit.
I wasn't being an asshole in my comments, but yet people like to jump at the chance to be one
Calm down bud
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They're your basic much better can be had for the price
There is nothing special about them at all
For the price range those speakers are you can get Rockford power series t1, the higher-end image Dynamics CDT audio etc
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The 10s is box is proper
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If that bracing isn't fitting tight against that subwoofer definitely going to cause rattles try adding some weather stripping around the contact points where the woofer meets the bracing use the thick foam stuff and let it smash with the weight of the subwoofer
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No way I'd use a 4g run from the battery to power an xtr 1500.1d. those amps do way over rated power.
And you kind body hinted that you're feeding a second amp with this 4g.
You better feed that distro block a run of 1/0 from battery and get that big 3 done as well.
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There has to be a main charging wire from alt to battery. If not, add one straight from the alt hot to battery positive.
I leave the factory wiring and add the big 3 to it.
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5 hours ago, Mike4068 said:
You should be cutting frequencies to tweak not boosting them. This keeps clipping from happening.
I personally run everything flat I really see no need for anything if you got a good set of speakers good quality amps I might play with the punch EQ not a little bit or maybe at 3 to 6 decibel boost on certain songs that just aren't doing it but I keep my shit flat and yes when I do EQ things I reduce instead of adding the most people that are new to this 0 will set gain then go to the EQ and start putting fucking 13 decibel boost on everything
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Once it's all said and done and you tweak the settings, recheck max clean volume on dd1. And adjust gains again
A lot of people disagree with this but think about this... You just set your games with your deck flat Max head unit volume. what do you think's going to happen to the maximum flat setting as far as gain is concerned when you add a bit of EQ in tweaking to it it's going to overdrive the signal of course
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Wow, spoon fed so much info the op left more baffled (hehe pun intended) than he started
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This is retarded ironic i just dug up my 200ix from basement as I was discussing using it with a fella
.very odd coincidence.
Yes you touch the gains.
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Are you hooked to front rear or sub RCA. And what tone are you using?
DD1 help
in SMD Distortion Detector (DD-1) Topics
Posted
You put them into speaker terminals.
Red to positive, black to negative ON SPEAKER TERMINALS!