Dafaseles

I've heard both good and bad about JS. Just make sure, if you do get it, that if you don't like it you can send it back. If it's going to cause problems you don't want it. Though, if it works great, more amperage is more amperage 

Good! Glad your happy! 

If I could add one thing, if you decide to upgrade the amp, I would recommend going with an SIA rather than an SFB. Much better amps in my opinion. 

Well, regardless of output, like I said before, I'd rather run 4 ohm, a little over 100 watts each, than just one voice coil. 

That being said, I don't think you'll be satisfied with the output. If the amplifier is only rated for say 200 watts at 4 ohm, after impedance rise, those subs will be lucky to see 75 watts a piece. You'll hear them, and your rear view mirror will shake a little, but the subs won't really be moving enough to actually create any pressure. Sure, there's a chance you might be satisfied. I don't really know your listening preferences, but, if I had to guess, I guess you won't. It'll definitely get you moving to get that electrical up to the task though. 

A 1 ohm stable amplifier can play at 1 ohm and higher. (2 ohm, 3 ohm, 4 ohm, and so on).

A 2 ohm stable amp can be used at 2 ohm and higher. You just don't want to use it under 2 ohm. 

Does that answer the question? Or did I misunderstand it? 

Average I would say is about 80 ah for those deep cycle AGM's. I don't think I've ever seen one claim 1000 ah. Not saying they're not out there, I just haven't seen one. I think the most I've seen 120 ah. I think, with that alternator, a good 80 ah will do just fine, but 100 ah well do you better. If you can swing the extra cost. Like I said, you can't have too much electrical. 

I'm not going to tell you yes or no, because I've never personally tried using only 1 voice coil on a sub, so I can't definitely say it's safe or not, but this is my mode of thinking....

A voice coil uses the movement of the cone and the air around it to stay cool. This function is made possible by the way a subwoofer is designed. The cone, the dust cap, the pole vent, the spacing of specific parts, and suspension. By taking a part of the subwoofer out of commission, and expecting it to work in the same way it's designed, I feel like that's a recipe for failure. The motor force is the same no matter what. That motor force is designed to work in line with what the voice coils can handle together. 

My main concern with it isn't if the sub will work. It will. I'm concerned that that single coil will generate too much heat for it to be able to effectively cool itself because it now doesn't have the other coil to help it move the cone. 

Like I said, I don't know if it will or won't damage the sub. But in my mind, if it could possibly damage it, it's not even worth trying. 

I would say, if you have an amp that's 1 ohm stable, but not the electrical to power it, I would rather wire to 1 ohm, and dial the gain way back to use both coils. If you only have a 2 ohm stable amp, me personally, I'd rather run the 2 subs at 4 ohm, and still use both coils.

If you have to put it on the trunk, get the most amp hours you can afford. You can never have too much electrical support. 

Running one coil is like only having 3 tires on your car. Sure, you can drive it, even keep the bare rim off the ground.... until you have to turn. 

There really is no reason to run 1 coil. No benefit at all that I can see

Does xs make a battery that would fit under your hood in the stock location? Probably just one of those and that alternator will do you fine. If you install it, and it's not enough, add another in the trunk. If 2 batteries aren't enough, you have another problem. 

And I wouldn't use just one voice coil you paid for 2, use them both. That's how the subwoofer was designed to work with the motor force and suspension stiffness it has. You're not running crazy amounts of power, so running at 1 ohm is perfectly safe. 

What is more important than the alternators "rating" is what it puts out at idle, say around 800 RPM's. I know mechman rates their alternators at 1800 RPM's, but they do add the idle information as well. I'm sure you can ask, and they'll know. My mechman is rated 400 amps. At 1800 RPM's, it puts out 405 amps. At 800 RPM's, it puts out 200. That info was included within the packaging. I swear by mechman. I've owned 3 of their alternators so far, and not 1 problem. 

For a 2200 watt max amp, that alternator should do it. I would personally take it that one step further and get a high ah AGM. Like an XS power or full tilt battery. But you'd probably be just fine with a decent interstate or die hard. 

I'm always going to choose the mechman. Just the warrantee alone is worth it being more expensive. 

Honestly, it really does sound to me like a voltage issue. I would double check the grounds to make sure they're good. I would get a voltage meter so you can see in real time what the amplifier is getting, then I'd go from there. 

If your voltage is dipping too much, you can potentially fry your subs and amp, so it's important to know

It doesn't just reduce power because it detects not enough power. It simply can't make its power without enough power going in. An amplifier won't make a much power at 12 volts as it can at 16 volts because it can't.

Are you positive you have the subs wired to the correct impedance? 

Have you checked the impedance of every coil to make sure they are correct? 

How did you go about setting your gains? 

What do you have your HPF and LPF set at? 

You need to know what the amplifier is getting while playing with the stereo up. Most DMM's won't show you dips in voltage quick enough for it to make a difference

Buy a volt meter and hook it up at the amplifier and see what kind of voltage is getting. 

https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SVMR-Voltage-Gauge-Display/dp/B001HEGBWE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3J2MA7YWTCZ21&keywords=stinger+voltage+meter&qid=1651258954&sprefix=stinger+voltage%2Caps%2C162&sr=8-3

A lot of people I've seen use this one. Fairly inexpensive, but works well. 

Wire the remote wire straight to the positive on your battery. That's a constant 12v, so if it doesn't turn on with that and the positive and negative ran correctly, it's most likely the amplifier. If it turns on, then it has something to do with the remote wire

Looking good! 

Oh, believe me, if anyone knows about a build taking too damn long, it's me 🤣 check out my build log and check the dates lol. 

Yeah man, keep me posted! 

No, because the fuse on the distribution block is in correlation to the amount of power the amplifier will need to make the power you desire. No matter how thick the wire is, the amp will only take a much amperage as it needs. But, the thicker the wire, the easier the amp can get that power

I personally would upgrade to the 0 gauge. I'm sure the 2 awg would work just fine, but the bigger wire will help the amp eat. 

The manual I saw online must have been an old one maybe. Just like the picture I saw of the 4 channel. No big deal, you have the manual. 

I would say yeah, using the fuse amps × 10 math = wattage, in order to choose the right fuse for a certain impedance should work just fine. The amplifier is only going to pull whatever it needs to make the power its going to make, so lowering the power by using a higher impedance like you're planning on doing, then using a lower amperage fuse wouldn't be any sort of problem.

Sorry about that, I'll try to explain better. Sorry if this gets a little long winded. 

Fuses are more in place to protect wire rather than the actual component, like a battery or an amplifier. If a battery all of a sudden starts dumping tons of current into your wiring, or your amplifier starts trying to pull a ton, that usually means something is wrong with that component, and it's already screwed. The fuse will burn through before it start burning the wire, stopping current from overloading the wire. 

So, I read the manual on the mono amp. In the manual, it recommends 4 awg wire, 150 amp fuse. You said you're using 2 awg. That's fine, as long as you can fit it all in there. That'll actually help the efficiency of the amp. Good, quality OFC 2 awg cable is usually rated at 250-300 amps before it starts to fail. You're planning on running the amp at 2 ohm to get 1100 watts. Using the easy math, to produce that amount of wattage, we can guess it'll need to pull a max of 110 amps to make that power. Take into account amplifier efficiency, and even impedance rise, and you should be safe using a 100 amp fuse (they are a lot easier to find than a 110 ANL fuse). So a fuse anywhere between 100 amps and 250 will protect the wire from overloading if something where to go crazy inside the amplifier. 

That 4 channel is internally fused with a 60 amp fuse. So, at 2 ohms per channel, to make the power it will make, it shouldn't pull more than 60 amps at any given time. Even though it's internally fused, in my opinion, it's still a good idea to fuse the cable because you'll have a 1/0 gauge wire (coming from under the hood), which can transfer 350ish amps, feeding a 4 awg wire, which can't handle all that current if something where to go wrong. Most good 4 awg OFC is rated about 150 amps. So when fusing that cable, you don't want to go below a 60 amp fuse (because you don't want to choke the amplifier), and you don't want to go above a 150 amp fuse because you run the risk of overloading the wire, and it starting a fire. 

Now, the 1/0 is rated around 350 amps. Both of your amplifiers at their maximum power can pull about 210 amps. Wiring your sub down to 2 ohm, we know it's not going to need its maximum. So, about 160 amps total. So fusing anywhere between 160 amp fuse, and a 350 amp fuse should keep you safe. 

All that being said, there really is no definite, 100% way to "guess" what your amplifiers are going to do unless you hook them up and test them with multimeters, clamps, gauges, and that good stuff. But I hope, with all this information, it'll give you a petty good idea on how to make an educated guess that will most likely work for your needs. 

1/0 gauge OFC is usually rated at 350 amps of current safety. So as long as you don't fuse above a 350 amp fuse, you're fine, as long as you don't blow it. I think, with running the mono block at 2 ohm, you should be fine with the 250 amp fuse. 

Amplifiers, as I'm sure you already know, are more efficient at higher ohms, so it won't need a many amps to produce 1100 watts as it does 2000. So I would bet you'd be good there as well. 

Mostly, fuses are to protect the cable itself from overheating. Let's say you used the manufacturer recommended fuse while running the amp at 1 ohm (any amp). If that amp starts to blow the fuses, the amp is most likely already damaged in some way, so in reality, the fuse isn't protecting the amplifier, its cutting power to the amplifier, so it'll stop trying to draw more current than your cable can handle. If that makes sense

How do you have the gains set on your amp? I would think that the 600 watt power supply would be enough considering, after impedance rise, that amp is never putting out 800 watts. 

I guess what I'm asking is, are you sure you need to upgrade? 

A 200 amp fuse would do just fine for the single channel, and if the 4 channel came with the 70 amp, I would just use it. 

The fuse times 10 doesn't always ring true, once amplifier efficiency comes into play. Usually, if you had to take an educated guess, it'll get you in the ballpark. One of my SALT 4's recommends 400 amp fusing, but on the amp dyno, will do over 6000 watts at 1 ohm. Now, real world, my subs are wired to a 1 ohm final impedance, but after things like impedance rise and voltage drop, I'll never see that. So 400 amps of fusing will be more than enough. 

Use the recommended wire and guide size no matter what impedance you're running it at. It still needs the power to make power

Is not a good idea to strap 2 different amps

You need more electrical support. You might be able to get away with 2 high amp hour AGM batteries, but you might need a high output alternator, depending on your vehicle. Those slash series amplifiers are serious and need a lot to eat