Dafaseles

Wait until someone gets so mad they feel the need to stick their head out the window to yell at you lol. That's always a good feeling lol

That's not the values I got, but it's all good. Do that math with those values and see what you get

I don't think it shows up if you post in the status update. I think you actual have to post in a forum category or whatever they're called

Go to account

Go to account settings

Above where you add your information, there's the 3 line and it says "settings area" click that and you'll see add signature 

If it makes you feel any better, I waited 8 months for my battery🤣

It's worth it for a quality alternator. That's the heart of your whole car, not just your system. 

So, that duralast is about 58 ah and that d3400 is about 67ah. 58+67=125

You've got 3500 watts. 3500÷14(about the voltage your vehicle sees while driving)=250(the amount of amps your amplifier needs to produce the wattage) 

250÷.7(70%, the worst case scenario on how efficient your average class D amplifier is)=357

Now, if you go with the 320a Singer alternator, you take the 320 and subtract about 60 amps. Your car needs amperage to run as well. That can vary car to car obviously. Let's just say your car needs 60 amps to operate. 320-60=260

260+125=385(the total amps you have available at any given time) 

So you have approximately 385 amps and you need 357 to operate the SIA3500. 

This math isn't the rule. It's just an approximation to help you decide on what you need. 

That being said, if you ask me, I'd go with the 320

I would try to get a bigger alt. I didn't see this, I replied on the other status update

Try JS alternators, Brand X, Singer, and autotech- engineering. Email or call them to see if they can custom build you a stronger alternator. Usually, one or all can. 

I feel you on the being too busy part. I maybe get 2 or 3 hours to work on it a week... that's not enough to make any progress it feels like lol

Too damn slow here! Driving me nuts! 

Lol. 4 12's in a 6th order blow through in a 2011 Silverado on about 10k at the most. Unfortunately, my windows should be safe🤣 except with the way the rear of my cab flexes, after the upgrade the back window might be in danger 🤣🤣🤣

The great thing about having a quality high output alternator is that even at low RPM's, it'll still give out a decent amount of power. And what's better than slapping at a stop light? 

Well, you can go watch a YouTube video on how to check with a multimeter if the ground is a legit spot. Not all sheet metal on a chassis is created equal. 

You can also wait until you get the DC, and just swap it out. See if it does the same thing. Unfortunately, with any brand, there are duds that get sent out. Some brands it happens more than others. Incriminator is a good brand though. 

Are they all sharing the same ground? Or different grounds? 

Are the JL amps cutting out as well? 

Check your grounds. Make sure they're all good spots to ground in the vehicle. There are videos on YouTube that will show you how to check with a multimeter. It sounds like you've got plenty of electrical. What are you running for the sub, if you have one already

3000 watts between the 2, yeah, that should be fine. I wouldn't throw 3000 at them each. If you can swing it, a 320 would be better. I had a 270 and 2 80 ah AGM batteries on 4000 watts and it wasn't enough. It would send the amps into protect pretty quickly. Got a mechman 370 and never had a problem again. And because I got the 370, currently I'm in the process of upping it to about 10k ish with a lithium battery and I don't have to worry about the alternator. That's why I say, if you can swing the money, buy the biggest one you can. Though I wouldn't trust anything under 300. Problem is though, you'd have to do 2 runs of 1/0 back to your batteries so you can make sure you get the full usage out if the alternator. 1 run won't carry enough amperage by itself unfortunately

The battery is in the trunk on those cars right? That makes things easier. You already have an AGM, but not a high AH one, but instead of having to replace that, you can just add another one. This one just came up on a different thread

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-34282-SHURiKEN-SK-BT140.html

140 AH and only $350. Other brands to consider are XS, Full Throttle, Stinger. 

I don't know how much more wattage you want to upgrade to, but you can't have too much electrical support. So, the biggest alternator you can afford from a reputable company....I can't stress that enough.... from a reputable company (mechman, JS, Brand X just off the top of my head) would be best. And, if you ever want to upgrade to more wattage, you wouldn't have to worry about buying another alternator. 

As far as the car goes, that I don't know. If could have system voltage regulators or whatever, a lot of newer cars do, that's something you'd have to look into from someone or somewhere who knows those specific cars. 

Those subs could handle more.... but not without the electrical to support it. 

Upgrade your alternator and battery(s) then worry about 3000-4000 watts