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Posts posted by Dafaseles

  1. Someone might have a better idea, but me personally, I would run a 4 channel amp (around 200-300 watts per channel at 2 ohm) for the 6.5's, and a separate 4 channel (100-300 watts per channel at 4 ohm) for the tweeters. 

    I would wire the 6.5's to each channel like this219126601_Screenshot_20220702-155814_SamsungInternet.thumb.jpg.60620ec684dfbe3090bec41c074bd9cd.jpg

    And just use 1 tweeter per channel on the other amp. 

    For the tweeters, I said 100-300 watts per channel because Skar claims those tweeters are 300 watts RMS. If you feed 300 watts to each tweeter, they are by far going to be the loudest piece of your system. I wouldn't feed them all that power. It would be too much in my opinion. But I don't know your listening preferences. You might want all those highs. And that's fine. 

    As far as amp wise, what's your budget? 


  2. 8 minutes ago, jnasty said:

    More slow progress..


    -Molded the beauty panel into the Cpillar with "kitty hair" & wrapped in suede- 1st time using the stuff, wayyy better than bondo

    - built amp rack as 1 piece, painted with krylon stone spray paint... yeahhh, I know I  took the easy route but no way was I gonna be able to wrap it successfully 🤣


    - started lithium rack in the rear, 80ah & 500 farad on each side, big distro in the middle












































    I think that actually looks really good with the stone paint! Looking damn good all around! 

  3. 25 minutes ago, CstrokerV said:

    Yeah I have 2 many subs laying around to try any lol 2 C.V. And 4 lvl3’s 12’s lol nothing to put them in but the C.V’s nostalgia build 

    Yeah man. I hear you. I wish I could just buy used cars, install a system, then flip it. Just to be able to play with all different equipment, but I don't think I'd be able to financially support it lol. Once I finally get my system in my truck, I want to do a full SQ style system in the wife's explorer. Then I'm out of vehicles to play with🤣

  4. 1 hour ago, LT.Smoke said:

    He'd be wasting his $$ em audio is trash and is run by a complete clown man

    No shit? I didn't know. I just see them on Instagram and people comment saying their beasts.  That's why I wrote supposed to be lol. I should have also wrote I've never tried them personally. That's my fault.

    A 1500 watt 8" seems kind of funny to me anyway lol

  5. 3 hours ago, Ron36 said:

    I did 3 -10’s under seat build , shit slammed, I don’t think your electrical is good enough. 3,300 watts on stock ALT plus whatever is running your mids . I don’t see anything about batteries not battery. I ran about 4500watts with mids and had 250amp ALT and 6 batteries to hold voltage.


    Damn! I don't think I've ever seen 3 10's under a back seat. Nice! 

    Ported? Sealed? 

  6. 16 minutes ago, Never Enough Bass said:

    Don't have a amp for the door speakers yet and I'm using the factory radio usually replace that thing but there's no kit for my car yet and I'll be using the dd-1+ and the cc-1 to set everything 

    I would suggest taking the plastic door panel off, unscrewing the speakers from the doors, and disconnecting them. But if you don't want to do that, all I can say is do it quick I guess, and hope for the best

  7. I feel like without totally removing your seat, doing a blow through, or doing a crazy center console build, your at your max with the 4 square subs. One thing about those L7's are, for whatever size, they are loud. Mostly because of the extra cone area you get from being square instead of round. With that amp wired at 2 ohm, I don't think your over driving your subs. The enclosure might be a tad small, making it a little harder for your voice coils to cool properly. Or, maybe you just got a hold of 2 duds, though with kicker, that's hard to believe you got 2. 

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  8. Well, usually, when you bypass that ring, it causes drastic fluctuations because it's kind of confused and not quite sure what it needs to do. With it fluctuating before the big 3, you hadn't messed with or added any ground wires anywhere? 

    The RVC will tell the truck to sometimes charge upwards of 15.3v, and also be that high on a cold startup. After it warms up, that can drop into the low 13 volt range when it decides it isn't needed. 

    The fact that you unplugged the sensor, and it charges fine with no problems, leads me to believe that the sensor was bypassed in some way, or it was operating normally, and you just weren't used to the drastic changes in voltage it can tell the alternator to do

  9. 9 minutes ago, Pak713 said:

    I have led headlights and they don’t dim. You’re right in saying it’s actually the big 2 lol. When I got the 2 wires installed I was scratching my head on the third one. So my big 3 I did, positive battery to alternator, negative battery to engine block, and the third I searched online about it and ended up running it to the chassis. The voltage fluctuation in the afternoon when I get out work had been so bad, today I unplugged the rvc sensor and it ran a flawless tick over 14 on the gauge the whole way home. When I had my system turned up I didn’t notice the gauge moving like before either. It moved a tiny bit but wasn’t like before. Supposedly by unplugging that sensor it will just charge like a normal alternator. I read a whole thread online about it and it was 8 pages long and no one had any issues with it unplugged so fingers crossed there. My big 3 is 1/0 wire. I was going to do 4 gauge, but you know how it is with car audio, always upgrading lol. 

    So would it be a good idea for me to just upgrade my current battery then? I see you said you went with a deep cycle battery, any in particular you recommend? I’ve read most guys saying to go with an agm battery. I’ll be honest I have no idea that’s why I’m here. Thanks bro I appreciate your help!

    Going from the battery negative to the engine block, you went through the RVC ring, correct? 

    I had Stinger sp1500dc batteries. But others like XS and full Throttle are great batteries as well. 

    I've read that same thing about just unplugging the alternator. The only thing is you have to look at a battery light. Some black electrical tape can take care of that 🤣 here in California though, we have to get our cars smogged, so any dashboard lights, it'll fail. I had to go about actually bypassing and fooling the system

  10. The belt should either be the same size (if the tensioner can accommodate the smaller alternator pully) or just a little smaller than the stock belt. It should go into the same space as it did before, so I'm not understanding how all of a sudden it's hitting hoses.

    The engine in this hybrid trucks is the 6.0 v8 correct? 

  11. I have the same truck. 

    When I had a 1000 watt mono block, and a 400.4, I just upgraded the battery, did the big 3 in....I think it was 4 awg.... upgrade to a deep cycle AGM battery and never had a problem. 

    Upgraded to 4 1000 watt mono blocks, and 2 400.4's, I went with a mechman 370 (not bypassing the RVC) and 2 80 ah deep cycle batteries under the hood with the big 3 now done in 1/0. Held up well (aside from corners cut by the car audio shop, but that's another story). A little bit of headlight dimming, but that's mostly because of the stock halogen lights. If/ when I upgrade to LED's, they shouldn't dim any anymore. Because LED's don't use as much energy, they're not as prone to dimming because of quick changes in voltage. 

    Now, I'm in the process of upgrading again. Let's just say.....a decent amount more power. To bypass the RVC, I bought a Mechman 400 with a 4 pin plug instead of a 2 pin, then just tapped into a switched 12v source to power the alternator on. Mechman also has a bypass plug that uses a certain impedance to "fool" the stock 2 pin plug into thinking it's still controlling the trucks charging. 

    As far as the voltage meter (in the dash in assuming) fluctuating, how did you do your big 3? On those trucks, it's more like a big 2, because you don't want to bypass the RVC ring with any grounding. So, basically, adding upgraded wire from alt positive to battery positive, then adding upgraded wire from battery negative, through the ring, to the engine block. Then also, from the battery negative to the vehicle chassis if that's how you grounded your amplifiers, though best practice is actually grounding to the chassis and all the way up to the batteries negative post. 

    Pain in the ass....I know! 🤣

  12. Looking on the mechman website, who sells dual alternator brackets and whole setups, and watching a couple videos on YouTube, I've yet to find a solution to running 2 alternators with the 2 pin plug. It seems either they run 1 alternator with the 2 pin plug, and the second with a 4 pin plug with exciter wire, or both alternators with the 4 pin setup. 

    That's not saying you absolutely cannot, and there's no solution, but at least I have not been able to find one. 

  13. 50 minutes ago, Mattc43 said:

    Hey guys I have stunk up my x15s twice now. It was that sweet smell you get when a voice coil gets too hot. Scared the sh*t out of me when it happened. Going to reset my gains tomorrow and NO MORE MUSI APP. I will be downloading the Dj rusticals app and running all my music through usb connection. My question for you guys is tho have I caused permanent damage to my voice coils? After both times I stunk them up I felt the dustcaps and they were warm. Not hot enough to burn my hand but I could lay my hand on them and definitely feel the heat. 

    I’ve tested the cones of both my subs and did not hear any crackling of the voice coil or stiffness. Subs are not blown but did take some clipping for sure. Makes me nervous because recones are not cheap for these subs and I don’t want to see them go up in smoke

    Only way to tell is to put a DMM on each voice coil and measure the impedance, and visually inspect everything. 

    How are you listening to your music? Through the phone? If so, I wouldn't turn the phone up all the way, if you are. That could be where you are running into problems. Just guessing though

  14. 2 hours ago, jnasty said:

    So I mounted them quick to get an idea, fed them from a b2 rage 2500.1 at 2ohm so they saw 2k.. Honestly thought it'd be a touch louder on 2k. Definitely over 150db for sure though (comparing to my older systems which I've metered). Either way, when all said & done they'll see 8k.. slightly more power lol. Did a little trim work & wrapped the amps in a vinyl. The beauty panel upper portion around the port will also be wrapped in the forged carbon vinyl & the lower half around the subs will be black suede. I'll have trouble wiring the amps as it's REAL tight. We'll see 🤷🏻





    20220612_181719 20220613_190519














    That's good lookin' right there! 

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  15. Well, before you go a completely different route....

    How did you go about setting the gains on your amplifier? Those sound digital amps will do their rated power easy, and with those subs only being about 450 watt RMS, if you're sending too much of a clipped signal to those subs, they won't last long. 

    How do you have your crossovers set on your amp? 

    Do you have any electrical upgrades on the truck? 

    Do you have an aftermarket head unit? Or are you using a line out converter? 

    What are you using as a source for your music? A phone or something else? 

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  16. If I'm not mistaken, Steve used 2/0 all throughout the escalade build. Maybe some 1/0 as well. I think maybe the stock wiring is or looks like 4 awg? I think he just added to it. 

    On GM vehicles 2006 and up, you have a voltage regulator controller (VRC). It's a plastic ring around your ground wire from your battery, to the engine block. So your "big 3" is more like a big 2. You don't want to bypass that ring and ground the frame to the block. That can cause many problems. 

    Is the stock battery under the hood the same chemistry as the XS batteries you have? If so, and you don't want to mess with the stock wiring too much, just keep it and throw the 2 batteries in the back. 

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