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Dafaseles

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Posts posted by Dafaseles

  1. 7 minutes ago, Jeremy009 said:

    Unfortunately i don't have another amp. See, i could be wrong,but if it was the speakers wouldn't it happen with just 1? What are the chanced both midbass speaker and tweet playing 2 db higher on the left? It has to be something with the amp. Maybe something that controls left output for the channels 

    That makes sense. You could try switching the speaker wires in the amp and see if the problem switches sides. 

  2. 19 minutes ago, Jeremy009 said:

    Update. All connections were checked and they a all tight. I switched the rca for the tweeters only and the left is still doing the same. So am not sure whats going on there. The headunit was ruled out with that test i guess. Could it be the amplifier causing it? But why only the left lol both mid and high are on separate channels on the 4 channel an the left is significantly louder,weird that it happens only sometimes

    So, I would say it's not the head unit or the RCA's. It has to be the amplifier, speaker wire (the run from the amp to the speakers) or the speakers themselves. 

    Do you have another 4 channel you can throw in there really quick and test with? I know it's a pain in the ass. That or switch out the speakers themselves. 

  3. 52 minutes ago, BboyTaktix said:

     

    haha thank you for the kind words but I am pretty new to the router - I mean, I did my two tower speakers and center channel speaker for my home audio build some years ago - but I think mostly I am lucky enough to catch on quickly. This is the real first legitimate clean car audio build I have done - the builds before, when I was in my 20's, I would be happy screwing the amps to the back seats backing, and a big rectangle sub box taking up most of the trunk space. But, as many of you know, priorities change as we pass through different phases of life. In my current situation I need pretty much all my trunk space and rear seat capability - I often transport renovations materials for our multiplex, and also have a little one on the way (our first) so can't be taking up trunk or rear seat!!!  

     

    My grandfather was a woodworker and so I guess he passed down some of his genes! Hoping that I can continue to be successful in this build, and also doubt it will be my last build!

     

    What I may do after finishing this build, is eventually go with a 3-way setup - basically buy some OEM A-pillar pods and try my luck at hacking them up in order to install tweeter and mid/wideband. One step at a time lol.

    Congratulations on the little one! 

    I'm in the same boat as you. I need my backseat back so I can ride with my 2 girls. My old setup, was just an MDF enclosure made to look like my backseat. I didn't really feel comfortable putting my kids in to of it, so it's time to put my backseat back in. Everything being moved to the bed. 

    I'm paying close attention to how you're fitting everything around the contours of your trunk. I want to do the same thing on top of my enclosure and make a false for on top of my enclosure. Everything underneath. So if I need to haul something, I still can use that space. 

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  4. I'm digging option 2 as well. Show off that Zapco power center stage. 

    I'm in the same boat with the router. I don't want to spend dumb loot on those template tools (though they do look pretty damn cool) so I'm making my own. We'll see what happens lol. You look a lot more seasoned than I am lol. 

    Looking damn good bud! Loving how perfect it's looking so far

  5. 3 hours ago, Jeremy009 said:

    Active... on 80prs

    Damn, I was hoping I could blame the crossover 🤣

    I think what you'd need to do is start to try and isolate the problem. If you have another 4 channel you have access to, even if it's not that good, switch it out and see if the problem persists. 

    If you get a pair of RCA to some kind of mobile device like a phone, you can hook it straight up to the amplifier and take the head unit and RCA's out of the picture. 

    You can switch the RCA's around on the amplifier to see if the problem switches sides. 

    And just check all your connections to verify that they're nice and tight. 

  6. 1 hour ago, Jeremy009 said:

    Good night SMD family. Hope all is well. This might be a bit to read.
    Anyone ever had any balancing issues with there left and right front stage?
    Info -  i got a pair of 4ohm 6.5s and a pair of 4ohm tweeter. These are powered of a jl jd 400.4 in stereo (left right tweeter, left right midbass, everything on their own channel) with all gains set perfect. I realize that sometimes my left side sounds louder, i know thats a common issue due to the vehicle but i my case it isn't always. I thought my ears were playing tricks on me so i got some one with a db recorder and played a pink noise tone, with a mic in the center of my back seat, balance was on 0, where i toggled between channels by muting on my 80prs. On some occasions all measured exactly the same output through left and right and sometimes the left tweeter and left speaker were playing almost 3db higher than the right on the same pink noise.
    I also noticed that sometimes the left tweeter plays scratchy, distored and soft on lower volumes and once i raise the vol to 50% and higher, the tweeter sounds perfectly fine and the output goes to normal and if i reduce the volume it continues playing fine.
    Can anyone shed some light on this? Thanks in advance.

    You're using passive crossovers? 

  7. If you don't know exactly what you're listening for, tuning your gain by ear isn't a good idea. If you use a DMM to set your gain, it might seem daunting, but it'll yield you better results that are safer to your equipment. Just take it step by step. 

    Also, those Q's work best in a huge box. Do you know how many cubes your enclosure is? 

    Also, are you using a stock head unit and LOC?

  8. I didn't get to work any yesterday, so I did as much as I could today, which didn't seem like too much. 

    I made a bunch of templates of my 8" speakers. 

    20211205_170737.thumb.jpg.ee19664bf18150fa3b6189070569cfa1.jpg

    One is too small to do anything with, so that will go into the archives. 3 are just the exact size of the 8's including the mounting holes. And one is just a 16th of an inch bigger than the one that's too small. It's perfect for the flush mount fitment of the 8's.20211205_161547.thumb.jpg.ef09411b44ece78e74e6385e9db3fa19.jpg

     

    Nice and tight, but good and loose, all at the same time. It came out really good. This cut was made on a junk piece though. 

    I had time to lay out the speaker fitment on the top piece20211205_170443.thumb.jpg.915e4dcf81b5072de49b5d0e4d984b03.jpg

    And that was it for tonight. Time to clean up20211205_172505.thumb.jpg.f06c0fa912cdc639b9debf03f6bddf46.jpg

    I made an absolute mess! 🤣

     

    • Haha (+1 Rep) 1
  9. 46 minutes ago, Drunkenmoron said:

    What a thread !!! Lol

     

    Here I am having problems finding an appropriate sub, then here you are taking your sound system to the moon. 

    Thanks for looking through it! 

    I don't know about taking it to the moon, but it should be nice when I'm finally done. My doors will be way more than I need, but it should be fun. 

    I wish I would have nutted up and joined this forum 10 years ago when I bought the truck. I would have gained the knowledge much earlier and been able to build and afford the system I'd really want. Building a full on 50,000+ watt demo system would be amazing! But I don't know enough (yet) to do something crazy like that, not to mention now having a family, I don't have the dough to accomplish something like that either lol. 

  10. If you can, take a tape measure and measure the length, width, and hight you're OK with losing to an enclosure. 

    When figuring the system you want to run in any vehicle, the first step is to decide how much room you're willing to give up. Then matching the sub(s) to that space. That's how you will yield the best sounding experience you can. 

    It looks like that might be a decent amount of space. You might be able to run 2 10's. Maybe a single 15. 2 12's, a single 12 maybe. But we won't know for sure until you measure the space. 

  11. 4 hours ago, Drunkenmoron said:

     

     

    Thanks for the response.

     

    Agreed, some places don't mention it at 1ohm, though I've ran a 2 sub setup before wired at that and never had issues. 

     

    Sadly my boot space allowance allows for 1 box, not a correctly sized one at that either. Something that can take a beating on loud volume for hours. I drive a lot and the bass helps keep me up 🤪

     

    No real budget in mind for the right sub, rather do it right once. ( blown a sub or two before )

    Do you happen to have measurements for the space available? How many cubic feet are you willing to give up? 

  12. I was looking it up, and yeah, that's pretty interesting. 

    I think because of its power management system and thermal control, it's made for 2 ohm. It will play and handle 1 ohm, but to make sure the amplifier doesn't over draw what it can handle, it limits the current flow at 1 ohm. 

    I've seen JL amplifiers do this same thing on amp dyno videos. They do more on a run to clipping than they do a dynamic run, and if it doesn't go into protect, will do less at impedances below 2 ohm. If you go to the alpine website, they don't even advertise that amp below 2 ohm. 

    As far as subwoofers go, do you have a price in mind? 1 sub or 2? Size? 

  13. 1 hour ago, BboyTaktix said:

    Some more progress this afternoon - I cut the very top piece which will go above the sub box, no photos though as I just did it to be able to copy the profile of the sub box itself, so I can install that piece on the box itself (hope my explanation makes sense LOL)

     

    With that, I had to also make my lower amp rack to ensure everything fit together well...I LOVE when a plan comes together image.gif.edec4068f2233ceff14218847d3963f9.gif

     

    Some photos of the amp rack - using 3/8" HPDE, this will be the bottom layer of two layers. I cut it to fit in back of sub box and follows contour of trunk bottom. 

     

     

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    Once I was happy with fitment, I rounded over the top edges all the way around. I then marked two locations and drilled through the HPDE AND sub box tab (the floor piece which sticks out 2 inches in back of the box) and will be putting threaded inserts to basically keep the two fastened together with M10 bolts (no photos of that yet)

     

     

     

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    Let me know what you think of my layout - I think I<m pretty happy with it. Basically all power on the bottom, plus mono amp. Top will be the Zapco, 4-channel amp and smaller 2-channel amp. Left lots of space for passing and securing wiring. Open to any constructive criticism!!!

     

     

    I think it looks really good so far. Everything looks like it fits really nice and really tight. The little things to really make an install look sharp! 

    I wish I lived in an area where I could show off my equipment. I have to hide everything as much as I can

  14. First, LPF should be at around 80 hz. That will let the subwoofer play everything below 80 hz, as it should. 

    Your subsonic should be a bit lower. Should be a couple hz below the tuning of the box. Being that it's a prefab box, do you know the port tuning? 

    Seeing your gain by ear is a recipe for disaster unless you are a seasoned vet and know exactly what you're listening for. Using a DD-1 is best, an oscilloscope is good too, if all else fails, use a DMM. There are videos on YouTube explaining how to tune with one of those. Problem with that is, especially using a brand amplifier that the manufacturer has no problem lying to you about output, is you're hoping the amount of power your putting out isn't clipping the Soundwave. 

    You need a new amp bud. I hate to say it. Something around 2500-3000 watts RMS would do those subs well. 

    Also, for smooth bass (which that's what it sounds like you're looking for) a bigger box, with lower tuning usually will accomplish this. 

    Like @Ron36said, electrical is number 1. Always. You can't make power without having power first

  15. 48 minutes ago, molly4lyfe said:

    Finally got started on the build. Scribed the bottom and cut with a jigsaw so you can’t see any light and everything sits nice and flush on the floor of the truck. All that is left to be done is to cut the hole for the speaker and put a top and front on. I’m about 5 hours in. Took my quite some time, much longer than I thought. I really wanted to fit the amp inside but it looks like that’s not going to work so well. Amp is gunna be thrown under the rear seat and I’ll used some fish wire to run cables under the floor. 

    A6F47C60-8790-499E-AF55-C528B0495F64.jpeg

    503AFB27-91D7-40CA-BBD5-AAC3621FFA57.jpeg

    I've learned this as well.... it sure does take a long time to get it done the exact way you want it, doesn't it? 🤣

  16. 6 hours ago, Big Tex db said:

    Upon further research, I might had been bottoming out my sub.  Clean signal, just too much movement for the sub.  I'm in a slightly oversized (+ .1-.2cu ft) sealed enclosure compared what is recommended on manufacturers website.

     

    It's a 1000w rms 2ohm DVC sub.  Currently wired parallel to 1ohm.  The amp is stable at 1500w 1ohm, 1000w 2 ohm, and 700w 4ohm.

     

    I'm going to rewire in a series to 4ohm and see how she likes it with only 700w.

     

    It's been running great with the gain set way below it's distortion point. Infact even getting a little warm/smelly a couple of times.  For a single 12 in a sealed box, it's been hitting strong and clean.

     

    I'm itching to try a ported box, but can't justify the cabin space I'd lose in the truck, and possibly lose some quality of sound.

    I don't think you where bottoming out. That sub on a 1500 watt amplifier playing regular music shouldn't be an issue at all. If you want to get technical, after impedance rise, that sub was lucky to see 1000 watts, if it even ever saw that. 

    With the gain way below the distortion point, the sub should never get warm and smelly. That's your coil getting too hot and working towards failure. 

    I don't think your box is too big. On average, seasoned box designers I've spoken to say they have no problem going 20% bigger than the manufacturers specifications. Your box is almost perfectly 20% bigger than the manufacturer recommendation. 

    There's something else going on. Have you checked your amplifiers ground with a multimeter to just double check to make sure it's a good spot? There are tons of videos on YouTube explaining how to do so. 

    How far away from the enclosure is the back of the motor off the sub? If it's too close, the subwoofer won't be able to get air into the voice coil to properly cool it. 

    Hand you checked the impedance of each voice coil separately to make sure they read near 2 ohm each, and read somewhat similar? 

     

     

  17. 1 hour ago, BboyTaktix said:

    Thanks! been working hard! I think the box is the longest part since it’s a lot of complex and exact cuts. Also want to groove the sides so I can cleanly tuck the carpet in the groove for a great finish.

     

    I’ll also want to use some caulking on all the interior corners of sub box to be sure it’s all sealed - suggestions for caulking type inside box?

     

    haven’t decided where to put the Dayton terminals yet - either right in center of the back wall of the box or on one end of the back wall. Leaning towards putting them on the end (passenger side) 

     

    also any way for a moderator to move this thread into the build section? Started as a gathering of info but became the actual build thread lol

    I'm going to use this

     

    Sikaflex 1a Polyurethane Sealant, 10.1 fl. oz. Ca... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00461KMIY/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_glt_fabc_2PFG7RMVQE0W7H88XBWG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

     

    It's what my cousin recommends, and he's an industrial waterproofer by trade, so I trust his recommendation on some legit, industrial caulking

  18. 3 hours ago, molly4lyfe said:

    My amp is going to be about 12 inches away from my sub box. Do I really need the terminals for the box? Or can I just run the wire directly from the sub to the amp. I would probably cut 2 small holes for each wire and then silicone them in place. 

    You can do that, it just makes it a pain in the ass of you ever want to remove the box temporarily. Just make sure you seal it up TIGHT! Any leak can screw up all your sound

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