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Dafaseles

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Posts posted by Dafaseles

  3. Officially Introducing the NEW DD-1+ (Distortion Detector PLUS!) (pics, video)

    in D'Amore Engineering - High Quality Car Audio Installation Tools & Accessories

    Posted

    6 minutes ago, stingray72 said:

    Man you got me so wanting to have my subwoofer already.  I cant imagine 5000 watts being thrown at that sub in the 4th order.  Im pretty much going to take my chances with the 300 pounds on the stock rear shocks.  They boast 1000 pound carrying capacity for the whole car. so im thinking 500 is the limit.  Honestly at 5k i should have more port than those two 8 inch aero ports because im at like 34 ms at 3500 watts which i read 30 ms is the most you want with aero ports.

    I have no idea about box designing. But as far as that subs limits, FI calculates RMS by playing a subwoofer free air for extended periods of time and if there is any little teeny tiny bit of damage, they call it. They are very conservatively rated. Not to mention, with the sealed side of the 4th helping with keeping the cone in control, that is a beast sub! 

  4. Officially Introducing the NEW DD-1+ (Distortion Detector PLUS!) (pics, video)

    in D'Amore Engineering - High Quality Car Audio Installation Tools & Accessories

    Posted

    4 hours ago, stingray72 said:

    I may have to get one of these because im going to have to dial back the gains on my amp.  This tool makes it easy.

    If you're going to run that amp at 4 ohm daily, you won't need to dial anything back. Even at 2 ohm on that md8000.1, as long as your not sending any clipping to the sub (which you will need a DD-1 for) I wouldn't dial anything back. Done right, I personally wouldn't be afraid to send 5000 watts at that sub in a 4th order. 

  5. Officially Introducing the NEW DD-1+ (Distortion Detector PLUS!) (pics, video)

    in D'Amore Engineering - High Quality Car Audio Installation Tools & Accessories

    Posted

    You would either turn all the values all the way up on your eq, then set everything, or turn all the values up maybe 3/4's of the way. By turning them up all the way, then returning them back to flat after setting up the gains, you completely remove the risk of intrusive clipping into your system. By setting the gains with the values halfway, you risk introducing clipping when you adjust the EQ, but songs that are recorded a little crappy, you have a little extra umph you can tap into when you need it. 

  6. Are my amps strappable?

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    1 hour ago, LimpCroissant said:

    Yo fellas. I'm new around here. Not new to car audio but semi newish to SPL. Whats this Maxx-link? Can somebody please post a link? I'm havin trouble finding it on google.

    This is a thread from 2009. 

    It was a kind of amp linkage tool so you could essentially take 4 1000 watt amps and make a 4000 watt amp. It's pretty obsolete now though considering you can buy 30k watt amplifiers. 

     

     

  8. Skar Audio ZVX-18v2 D1

    in SKAR AUDIO - (READ ONLY ARCHIVE)

    Posted

    As far as amplifier, anything 4000-4500 watts would be fine. You'll probably want to go with 1 amp because you have 2 dual 1's, so with one amp you'll be able to run at 1 ohm. 

    As far as brand... I'd say just stay away from dual, boss, power acoustic, and hyphonics. Any of the big brands would do you well. Most amplifiers today will do rated or a little more. 

    Alternator, you've got it easy having an older suburban. Everyone makes alternators for your truck. Mechman, singer, brand x and JS come to mind. 

    And the mounting is just a preference thing. No real benefit either way usually. Motor up means the enclosure can be smaller because there is no subwoofer displacement inside the box, but 99% of the sub is outside the box. And cone out is just the opposite. The only thing is you have to reverse the polarity if you're running motor up. When the bass hits, it's usually preferable to have the cone move towards the outside of the box first, then recoil into the box. 

     

  9. Overlap question.

    in SMD Distortion Detector (DD-1) Topics

    Posted

    6 hours ago, RageTheWicked said:

    So I saw the manual that said use -10 for loud setting. So what is the -15 used for? Wouldn't that be used for louder sound? I did some research and found music these days whether it be pop or hip hop use a range between -12 to -14 on their recordings.

    -15 would be louder than -10. I'd say use -10 to be safe. If you use -15, you'll still probably be safe, but I would monitor it closely to make sure you're not sending to much of a clipped signal to the speakers. 

  11. Is my new DD1+ Distortion light supposed to come on if I move around the leads?

    in SMD Distortion Detector (DD-1) Topics

    Posted

    6 hours ago, Wolfbites said:

     

    I don't know if mine does it, it never has, or I've never noticed it. I look at it as a precision tool so I am extremely careful. I've always been taught a bent level helps no one. It doesn't sound like you'd be the person to drop it or throw it around though. 

    This might sound stupid, but it's work so many other times with the DD1's and CC1's. Change the battery to a brand new Energizer. If that doesn't help, yeah, maybe it's out of calibration. Who knows what happened to it during shipping 

  15. Help with dd1 loudness on radio

    in SMD Distortion Detector (DD-1) Topics

    Posted

    13 hours ago, Alfdawg said:

    I have a pioneer nex 4500. The other day I tuned by 4 channel amp with the dd1. My max undistorted volume was 38. After I was done I went in the sound menu and noticed loudness was set at mid. Do I need to find the max undistorted volume again with the loudness off or should I be good? 

    Technically, you should be good.

    If it where me though, I would just turn off the loudness and redo to steps. I would fear that there would be some songs recorded differently that would cause clipping, but I'm also kind of anal when it comes to stuff like that. 

  16. Introduce Yourself

    in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"

    Posted

    41 minutes ago, Ice Cold 205 said:

      Hey everyone I am Ice Cold, a music producer from Birmingham, Alabama. I’ve been into car audio for over two decades. I found out about this site from searching for a dash kit for my 2014 Ford Explorer xlt. The build that I plan to do on this one is going to be sick. Thanks for letting me aboard! #positivevibes

    Welcome! If the build is going to be sick, make sure to start a build log. We love to see it

  17. Introduce Yourself

    in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"

    Posted

    2 hours ago, Grimmjoww said:

    Sup guys, name's Rob. I found the site while trying to get back into the scene just a little. Was watching quite a few of Williston labs reviews on amps and subs and looked into your products and vids. Thought you seemed to be a solid businessman with good ethics and some sick installs. So I decided to hop in here for some modest advice. Glad to be here, havent been around bass since 1999 LOL.

    Welcome! 

    • Like (+1 Rep) 1

  21. 2015 Cadillac Escalade Sound System Install - 6 12's all 1" Acrylic box, mids/highs started update page 25

    in Just Meade....my projects - Tons of SMD Builds here!

    Posted

    4 hours ago, meade916 said:

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    How did you go about grounding the rear lithium batteries and dealing with the RVC? Or does it not matter because you "bypassed" the RVC by going externally regulated with the alternator...I ask because I have to deal with the RVC in my truck very soon. Battery delete up front, lithium in the bed. 

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