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Everything posted by Dafaseles
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Cost wise on power wire?
Dafaseles replied to jessdabest77's topic in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Welding cable is technically fine. As long as it's pure copper, it's just not oxygen free copper. From what I've read, welding wire is more susceptible to corrosion than car audio cable, but I've never tested this myself. Welding wire does go by the AWG scale, and car audio cable is oversized, so if you need 1/0 awg car audio cable, 2/0 welding wire would be the same size and about the same amp rating. -
No distortion detected…
Dafaseles replied to Chug Wysley's topic in SMD Distortion Detector (DD-1) Topics
Try also using a 1000 hz tone to see if you get different results -
No distortion detected…
Dafaseles replied to Chug Wysley's topic in SMD Distortion Detector (DD-1) Topics
How do you have the Lc7i hooked up? Are you sure you're sending all frequencies through it? Have you tried to find max volume with a 1000 hz test tone? If you're getting your high level input from someplace that the OEM unit isn't sending a full signal to, you might not be getting 40 hz through the equipment. Let's say someone is getting their high level input from factory tweeters. Well, the OEM system isn't going to send all the frequencies through that speaker, so the LOC won't get it either, thus making it so the DD-1 doesn't detect it. LOC's like the Lc7i have multiple inputs so on complex stock systems that send different crossed over signals to different speakers, you can take all those, feed them into the LOC individually, and the Lc7i will sum up the different frequencies to make them one cohesive...... unit I guess you could say. Also, when we set the gains in my buddies system with the Lc2i, we had to set the accubass first as well to compensate for the bass roll off. If I'm not mistaken, in the DD-1 manual, or says turn the gains all the way down (I could be mistaken), but I've had good luck with just barely cracking the gain a hair. On another note, once you get it working, set the head unit and LOC gain using a 0 db tone, then set your overlap just on the amplifier -
No distortion detected…
Dafaseles replied to Chug Wysley's topic in SMD Distortion Detector (DD-1) Topics
Are you using the 0 db 40 hz tone to find the max volume of the head unit and set the gain on the LC7i? -
No distortion detected…
Dafaseles replied to Chug Wysley's topic in SMD Distortion Detector (DD-1) Topics
First, try changing the batteries to a strong, name brand battery. It might sound stupid, but I've seen it work more than once. Second, did you make sure your crossovers aren't overlapping? Make sure your low pass filter is set as high as you can, and your subsonic is set as low as you can. -
Done in the right conditions, right enclosure, electrical all the way correct, gains and crossovers set perfectly.... maybe. But I'm not going to give someone the advice to throw that kind of power at it because if they end up blowing the sub because of over powering it, I'm not going to warrantee that shit🤣
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Fluctuating voltage
Dafaseles replied to mdnjmmy0613's topic in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
I don't know if I told you, but after all that, I spoke with Tony from mechman. For GM trucks, they make a whole bypass setup that also will fool the charging system into thinking the VRC is still in control. No battery light on the dash, and a constant 14.7v from the alternator. I had to order a new alternator though. A 2 pin input instead of a 4 pin. With the max charge of the Cyber 12k betting 14.8v, the constant 14.7 will be way safer than the fluctuating voltage from the VRC. -
Fluctuating voltage
Dafaseles replied to mdnjmmy0613's topic in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
My truck has one a well. What i've learned is that it's important to not send grounds to the engine block/ alternator without passing through the "ring" first. You can ground to the frame, but the frame grounds should come back up to the negative battery terminal, then through the ring, then to the block. If you pass by the ring, it can cause havoc on the system. What actually happens? I don't know. Just read "don't do it" lol. -
Fluctuating voltage
Dafaseles replied to mdnjmmy0613's topic in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Steady voltage at night might have something to do with the headlights and taillights. At night, the automatic lights will turn on all the lights needed for night driving. In turn, the voltage controller says "well then we'll need more voltage", and at accordingly. Try turning your lights from automatic, to just flat out on during the day, and see what results you get. -
Wire Size for 400 amp Alternator Upgrade
Dafaseles replied to Time2SHO's topic in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
So yeah, you're not pulling much, but those high end JL amps are hungry. That alternator with even your current battery is more than enough. 1 big 3 will be plenty right now. Though 2 runs of 1/0 from your alternator positive to your battery won't hurt. I say that just to be a little overkill, so you won't ever exceed the rated amperage of the cable. Mechman rates their alternators at 1800 RPM. So at 1800 RPM, that alternator can put out 400ish amps (I have one as well) and at 800 RPM (about idle) they usually put out around 200ish amps. So that can kind of give you an idea of how much current that alternator will be pushing out the majority of the time while driving. Good 1/0 OFC car audio cable is usually rated around 350 amps. I always tend to try and steer people away from using CCA car audio cable because, basically, it's cheap, and can't handle the amperage OFC can. Welding cable is pure copper, which in my opinion, is just fine to use in daily driver systems, with some asterisks. Car audio cable is oversized, so it can handle more. Welding cable uses the AWG standard. So 1/0 welding cable is usually rated around 300 amps. Also, depending on who you ask, the cable sleeve of welding wire can be less protective than car audio cable (I have never tested this claim). Some say OFC is even more resistant to oxidation than pure copper (I've never tested this myself either). If you ever get to put in a second HD1200.1, then I would recommend dropping coin on 2 high output AGM batteries. Replacing your current battery and your truck has space and kits to add a second battery under the hood, so finding space shouldn't be an issue. That should keep both fed just fine. The reason I like those type battery terminals is, at least for me, it was easier to attach all the ring terminals I needed, and liked a lot cleaner, than stacking everything together on a "pole". -
Wire Size for 400 amp Alternator Upgrade
Dafaseles replied to Time2SHO's topic in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
It's a fun hobby, but one that can get expensive, just like fixing up a car lol. By industrial cable, do you mean welding cable? As far as getting into it deeper than you expected, you do it right the first time, you won't have to worry about anything in the future. If you don't mind me asking, what gear are you running? Amp, and subs specifically. 2nd battery? In the interest of keeping things clean looking, I prefer something more like this https://skyhighcaraudio.com/copy-of-sky-high-car-audio-6-flat-battery-terminals/ Or input style of you prefer https://skyhighcaraudio.com/sky-high-car-audio-sae-4-0-xl-2-0-xl-or-1-0-4-input-set-screw-battery-terminal/ They make different sizes and different configurations. This is just to give you an idea. And to expand on what @TheBKGsaid, I think he's referring to something like these https://skyhighcaraudio.com/sky-high-car-audio-dual-1-0-to-1-0-gauge-inputs/ They also come in different sizes and configurations as well -
Wire Size for 400 amp Alternator Upgrade
Dafaseles replied to Time2SHO's topic in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
What battery do you have under the hood now, so I can see a picture of what you're referring to. Yeah, that 8/0 is hood, and expensive. I thinks it's $1000 for 50 ft lol. I was just throwing that out there because I thought it was interesting. 2 runs of 1/0 is rated higher than 1 run of 4/0, so you can go wrong with 2 runs of 1/0. Just of you REALLY wanted to have just a single run, 4/0 will handle it. -
Wire Size for 400 amp Alternator Upgrade
Dafaseles replied to Time2SHO's topic in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
This is what I used on mine. Very convenient and clean looking https://skyhighcaraudio.com/alternator-distribution-block-1-0-shca-ring-terminal/ Also, there is 4/0 wire out there. Sky high makes some good stuff and so does knukonceptz. If you feel froggy, Shok Industries makes an 8/0 lol -
Just a thought, I don't know if it would make that much of a difference or not, just throwing it out there.... Would varying voltages to the amplifier effect current draw as well? If his vehicle has some sort of stock voltage regulating system that will send a lower voltage out than his buddies vehicle? Like I said, I don't know if that would really make that huge of a difference
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What final impedance are you going to be running at? 2 ohm or .5?
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I didn't read this while thread, but I've watched the YouTube videos that Steve has used the fans and it seems he'll put fans on one side blowing in, and the fans on the other end blowing out. A good one to watch is of the Tahoe. Old ass video when he's first building the under the enclosure amp rack in his garage at home. The way he gets air to flow though the different sections is a really good lesson in my opinion
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Sub clipping after setting gains - SMD DD1
Dafaseles replied to Big Tex db's topic in SMD Distortion Detector (DD-1) Topics
How did a calibration tool..... even if it was broken.... blow your amps? It does nothing but read a signal. Did you have an LOC as well? Or aftermarket head unit? Mine, when I use it, I'll set everything almost all the way down. Volume and gain on the amp cracked a tiny bit. Then I turn up the head unit I get the signal and frequency light. And you where using track 8? Why where you setting your subwoofer amp gains with a 1kz -15db tone? Also you'd need to torn the subsonic filter all the way up, and the low pass all the way down, or it could impede the frequency from coming through. -
All works well but no signal
Dafaseles replied to RmpShkr's topic in SMD Distortion Detector (DD-1) Topics
At least with mine, the signal light will come on before the frequency light. Maybe you're signal light is faulty. How long have you owned it? -
using DD1 with factory HU, DSP, and 2 amps
Dafaseles replied to MEtaLpREs's topic in SMD Distortion Detector (DD-1) Topics
No, I didn't miss word it. I was just wrong. Thank you for the clarification. I thought it measured both. I must admit, I only skimmed through the manual lol. -
using DD1 with factory HU, DSP, and 2 amps
Dafaseles replied to MEtaLpREs's topic in SMD Distortion Detector (DD-1) Topics
I would use the DD-1 for all components. It measures more than just clipping. It'll detect distortion as well. So, even if you end up adjusting the gain down for whatever reason, at least you'll be aware of the max you can go without distortion. -
Electric cars and car audio?
Dafaseles replied to Mattc43's topic in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"
I just saw this as well and was blown away! What was it, 9 amps to play 400 watts? 😳 -
Electric cars and car audio?
Dafaseles replied to Mattc43's topic in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"
Very complicated. Dude has another video where he goes into depth about how he did it, but I couldn't find it. I've heard the same thing. My cousin used to work for Tesla as well, at the plant in Fremont CA, test driving a lot of the cars before they're shipped out. He said they're fun as hell. I'm not sold on the electric cars either. It takes too long to charge them, and even doesn't it say in the manual to not use the fast charge because it can prematurely damage the batteries? The range isn't good enough for me either. I want to be able to drive all day, 16-18 hours at least. Or, 5 minute charging that doesn't ruin the batteries overtime.... I'll concede to 10 minutes if I have to. Also, I'm a truck guy. No, not often to I have a trailer or a heavy load, but I do sometimes. I need to be able to drive more than 150 miles before I need to charge. Also, I'm lucky to be able to own a home with a 2 car driveway, but what about the people who don't? Are they supposed to run extention chords across the sidewalk? On top of all that, at least in California, the law makers keep telling our utility companies they need to shut down their power plants. They're having a hell of a ti me keeping up, even now. What happens when all these cars need electricity too? What happens to the batteries after they're spent? I read about a chinese company that is working on a lithium battery that, once it can't hold a charge anymore, they can actually recycle the lithium to hold a charge again. So that's a plus if they can figure it out. I fear that the market for easy car audio integration with large systems isn't popular enough to make anyone spend that kind of money on research and development to figure out easy solutions. I really think it'll die, which sucks.