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About DD1User001

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  1. When I am talking about the gain at half with everything flat I mean this.
  2. Since you asked about the setup. I bought this entire setup back in August of 2016. I first replaced the old stock system with a $100 8" bazooka tube and the default bose speakers. The setup before this never caused me any issues. The last image is what is in the doors now "Alpine 610c's". I believe the rear speakers are factory bose. I wish I could fit something better, but a C5 has serious box size limitations and I have never found a full size box that would work for it to really make the bass come alive in this car. I'd prefer to use full size subs for more bass if I could. I just need a better box for the car. I drove the car today with everything flat including all the other filters turned off as suggested and so far the car doesn't throw any charging system faults. The gain at everything flat on -5 Db is just a tad under half way on the gain. The issue has been happening for years, but no one has been able to solve it. Whatever is going on has cost me 3 batteries and 4 alternators over the course of 5 years.
  3. Will do, thank you. I'm fixing to go run some errands so I will get to see how the car reacts without any SLA or the max distortion settings I was using before. Thank you all for explaining how that was hurting my system performance by introducing more distortion.
  4. SLA is source level adjustment. Its used for setting different source level volumes on different sources to match the AM/FM radio volume. Sorry for such confusion here, but I notice in the manual it says 10. Set the headunit's bass, treble, EQ, crossovers to flat. The headunit defaults on a factory reset to front HPF off, rear HPF off, and LPF sub to 80 Hz -18. Is this the right setting or should I also turn off the LPF frequency off too before I adjust the gains? I'm not sure where the amp ground is on the car since I let a shop do the install years ago. I will have to investigate this further and report back. The sound you could hear in the video was actually my alpine 610c's, because the headunit defaults to turning off all HPF frequencies. The sub itself was disconnected. That was actually the mids and highs at 59. The car is a 2001 C5 Corvette. The 200A monster fuse is connected to the read power wire going to the fuse.
  5. Here is the video showing the gain being set and what happens when I try to introduce even a +1 SLA into the system on any source. The video uploads are still processing so give it time to update the video qualities. I just wanted to have them available to see if I am doing anything wrong when I set this. Should my Subwoofer Frequency be set to off or the default of 80hz -18? It defaults the sub to 80 hz -18. The next video will show you the voltage drops.
  6. Here is video one showing how I tested for the max clean volume just like steve's manual says. If I missed any step let me know.
  7. Here is where I set the amp. Please watch it and tell me if I missed anything or did anything incorrectly. My Subwoofer frequency defaults to 80 hz -18 which is why you'll see me change it back. I was flattening everything. Should I turn this to off when I am setting the gain? You can hear the way this sounds as its adjusted in the video. Image 1 is how I had the SMD DD-1 connected during configuration. Image 2 is what it looks like after configuration. I am fixing to take the car out and drive it to show you how the voltage will decreases over time.
  8. Thank you guys. So let me go into further detail here to explain the issue this vehicle has. Hopefully someone can help me resolve it. When I remove 200A monster fuse from the car completely the voltage will stay at 14.2v with the car running. As soon as I re-install the 200A monster fuse in the car, the voltage drops to 12.72v then as the car runs it will drop to 12.48 and keep on dropping. As the car runs idle while sitting in traffic or at a light the voltage will continue to drop this is a problem especially if you hit heavy traffic. This only happens when the 200A monster fuse is connected. Its strange, but I will have to record a video and show it to you as it happens. The longer the vehicle runs without the RPM being pushed up the more voltage the car will drop according to the DIC and again it only happens when the sub amp has power thru the 200A fuse. The alternator is brand new and the battery is brand new. I have went thru 4 alternators and 3 batteries already related to what occurs with this car when the KAC-9106D sub amp is connected. If anyone can help me fix this it would be greatly appreciated. I don't understand why this happens. I will upload the video here pretty soon to show it to you.
  9. Thank you for all of your help dafasles. I do have another question though if you don't mind. I will do my best to explain the issues I am experiencing. 1). What - Db should I be using if I listen to all of these various types of music? bass mekanik, decaf, djsnt, get160, rock, rap, pop, alternative, country, oldies, trap, rap, bass beats, house music, techno, dubstep, bass boosted songs, and a few others which are primarily stream off of youtube pre-made playlists. I prefer alot of bass, but I have a shallow mount rockford p3sd2-12 in a sealed box which is capable of 400w RMS 800w Peak The amp that drives the system is Kenwood 9106D which is capable of 1000w at 2 ohms RMS or 500w at 4 ohms RMS. The sub itself is wired in series so its actually putting out 4 ohms. The 12" box is a a-trend that has 0.86 cuft. of airspace which is perfect for the rockford p3sd2-12. Due to my limited trunk space in my c5 corvette the flush mount with a shallow subwoofer was my only option since the area under the hatchback will only support a triple 8's box due to the hatchbacks height restrictions. Now that you know my build data I have a question that I am really hoping someone can answer. My primary limitation is my charging system, so I need to know the best way to set this up. My alternator is only 110 amps. When I am setting my subwoofer amp gains with SMD's DD-1 40z -10Db track should my sub preout level on my headunit be at 10 to ensure it won't clip at max power? If yes, then my next question becomes. After I set the gain at the max distortion free point with the sub preout level at 10 is it then recommended that I put it back to 0 so that I can hear the full volume over the whole range once I have the amp gain locked in? I noticed in the youtube videos when steve sets an amp he turns up the subwoofer control knob to max, then he sets the gain. I'm guessing that its best to use the max pre-out voltage when setting the gain so that my system won't clip at the max pre-out voltage. Next I noticed that when I hooked up my RCA cable to the SMD DD-1 it wouldn't detect any signal at all whatsoever when I was using the RCA's going from the headunit to the sub amp. The SMD DD-1 wouldn't even show a green power light when testing on track 1 or 2 with the RCA in the SMD DD-1 using the CD source. I can hear the 1 Khz tone thru my speakers though, but nothing registers on the DD-1 when using a pioneed x6800bs headunit. With the SMD DD-1 connected to the red/black speaker terminals on my sub amp it will only report the 40 hz tracks. So now my question becomes if the RCA method doesn't work how do I find the max clean volume for the 1khz tone? All I have is a sub amp. Moving on I ask this sub level pre-out question again only, because if I set my gain with the volume at 59 (max clean volume for track 1) and sub pre-out level at 0 my gain has to be turned up almost 3/4 of the way which then causes charging system faults due to the massive power draw on my battery and the 110 amp alternator. I should also note that if I play track 1 and I try to bump the SLA up even by +1 the distortion indicator light turns on no matter whether its CD, USB, Bluetooth or Aux. Is this normal it seems like I can't apply any SLA to my system over any source at all when the volume is at the max clean volume of 59. It happens on tracks 3, 5, and 7 too. To remedy the no SLA increase I played track 3 on the SMD DD-1 CD for -5 Db. I put the SLA at +4 while the volume was at 59. The distortion light immediately turned red, I put the sub level pre-out at 10 instead of 0, I set loudness to high, then I turned the volume down on the headunit until the distortion light turned off. Finally I turned the gain up until it was just under the distortion point. I noted the new volume level where their was no distortion with all of these settings (41). Is there any problem with doing it this way? What do I lose in overall system performance. Doing this brought my max clean volume down from 59 to 41, but by doing this with the -5 db track I discovered that my gain setting went from needing almost 3/4 of the entire gain to just a smidge above 1/4 of the gain which kept the car running perfect without any charging system faults. With almost 3/4 of the gain which is the setting that is required with sub level 0 my charging system has issues due to the massive power draw. With the sub pre-out at 10 and all of these other settings the car runs fine, because the gain only needs to be 1/4 of the way up. So now I have to ask is their anything wrong with doing it this way. Will it hurt my equipment running it like this? I ask, because my kenwood 9106D has a 65 amp consumption rating according to the manual. Thats a huge power draw on a 110 amp alternator. I tried to check the voltage on the RCA's using a digital multimeter. The results were as follows. Red clip on rca plug + black clip on rca-outer part no reading on AC or DC. The volume on the headunit works, but the RCA shows no voltage even at max clean volume. Now keep in mind that the RCA in the SMD DD-1 shows nothing too. It takes the red and black wire being connected to the speaker terminals to get any reading at all.
  10. First off I gotta say I love the DD-1. Man what a great tool! I didn't realize just how far over my settings were above the minimium disortion range for me to have a clean signal. My old settings caused me all kinds of electrical issues from dimming lights to no starts to battery drains to rough idles to random electrical issues due to the constant power drain. I went thru 3 batteries and 4 alternators before I started using your tool, but I never could figure out why until now. As soon as I hooked it up I immediately saw just how far above the distortion range I was for all of the extra power I was drawing which was only distorting my signal further. I never even knew it until I seen it using your DD-1. I was over the clean signal by about an extra half of the amps gain. There is no telling how long my speakers were slowly clipping from an unclean signal. Your tool just saved me alot by showing me my max clean signal. I was using way more voltage than I needed to and I was distorting my signal alot. Thanks to your DD-1 tool, my signal is now nice and clean. It turns out my cars electrical system couldn't handle the extra electrical power that my kenwood 9106d was wanting to draw on my little 110 amp alternator. Your DD-1 tool helped me fix that issue by not drawing anymore power than needed to produce a clean signal. To put this into perspective my old setting was 5/8 of the full gain setting which is just a smidge under 3/4 of the entire gain. The clean signal at 59 with everything flat and the subwoofer level at 0 is just a smidge above a 1/4. Thats a huge adjustment to the overall power draw on my electrical system. I had no idea that my headunit could play clean all the way up to 59 out of 62. Before using DD-1 I stayed below 45. Here are the steps I took to calibrate my system. I connected the red and black DD-1 cables to my secondary speaker level inputs leaving the subwoofer speaker wires connected to the amp 1). I reset my pioneer X6800BT headunit back to 100% defaults 2). Then I turned off the default EQ mode called powerful and I set it to flat mode in the EQ. 3). Next I went to speaker level and set my subwoofer volume from 0 to 10 for max bass. 4). Then I cycled back thru my fronts and my rears to ensure they were all still at 0 on their respective speaker levels. 5). I then went thru my LPF and HPF crossovers on my headunit making sure they were all turned off. 6). I made sure bass boost was off and I also made sure loudness was also set to off. 7). I played track one from your DD-1 CD and I set my SLA to 0. This was my first test On my X6800BT with the subwoofer speaker level at 0 I got to a clean volume of 59 out of 62. Next I tested how I used to configure everything before the DD-1 and the results were way different. On my X6800BT with the subwoofer speaker level at 10, eq at powerful (default), bass boost at +1, loudness at mid, and SLA at 4 I was only able to get a clean volume of 41 out of 62 when using my USB/Iphone with all of these settings. Now that you know my results I have a question about crossovers. My front speakers are Alpine 610c's mids only, they never installed the tweeters just the mids. Their range is 70Hz - 22Khz (80w-240w RMS) No amp My subwoofer is a Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-12 Shallow mount 34-250Hz (50-400w RMS) in a sealed box. My ISF is turned all of the way down due to it being a sealed box. My amp is a Kenwood 9106D pushing 1000w RMS at 2 ohms with a 24DB Octave built in. My vehicle is a C5 Corvette with open airspace. I have been told a 24DB slope is best for open air vehicles. Is this true? Should I be using a 24 DB octave on my HPF filter on the headunit at 80Hz with the alpine 610c's or not since my sub amp has a 24db slope built into it? What about my sub should I be using a 24DB octave on my LPF filter on the headunit at 80hz or should I leave this turned off and let the sub amp's built in crossover control it. The box is a sealed box with 1 12" 2 ohm DVC subwoofer installed. It says my sub's lowest frequency it can hit is 34hz-250hz. When I am looking for the max clean volume is it a good idea to have my subwoofer speaker level set to 10 and SLA set to the best undistorted option or should I leave both of these at 0? Is it best to have an overlapping frequency between the two or should they be divided like this? 80hz LPF 80 Hz HPF 80hZ LPF 100 Hz HPF Thanks in advance. Sorry for so many questions I am just trying to make sure I get everything set properly. I can't tell you how much the DD-1 has helped me. It solved my electrical issues by letting me use the best voltage for a clean signal which means everything when a 110 amp alternator is all you get with so many other things running at the same time.
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