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V1G1LANT3

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Posts posted by V1G1LANT3

  1. JL Audio

    8w3v3-8ohm subwoofer - $100 plus shipping

    Very nice shape, mint from what I can tell. Missing the ring around the mounting points. $10 from JL for a new ring, so it's not too bad.

    CIMG3627.jpg

    300/2 slash v1 amplifier - sold

    Monster Cable

    23-25' 1/0 Power flex Cable - $75 shipped or $4 a foot

    Magnetic flux core center: improves performance and power ability, lowers distortion.

    CIMG3630.jpg

    Knukonceptz

    AGU Fuse block - $8 shipped

    4ga in - 4 ga out or 2 8ga out. One of the 4 ga is screw set and the other is compression fitting. Suppose to only have the 2 8ga out but I broke off the seperator piece on the cover to allow 4 ga out.

    CIMG3636.jpg

    Add paypal fee

    Contact me at [email protected]

    Pm me offers or your zip code for shipping quote

    Reference:http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback&userid=bman365

  2. Let me put it this way, if its the check engine light flashing ( you wern't specific on which engine light, kinda like the 50 miles thing) it is flashing because there is a catalyst damaging condition with your vehicle which 9 times out of 10 is a cylinder missfire causing it. so yes, it can tear crap up if not addressed in a timely manner.

    Hows the car running anyway?

    ^this is why it's flashing. The $1000 may be for a oem replacement catalytic converter(CC) which is the whole mid pipe and the labor to fix whatever is causing the issue. Raw gas in the CC will screw it up and clog it.

  3. I wouldn't use a pickle fork to loosen it because they almost always tear the grease boot. Smack the tie rod end or knuckle with a big hammer and it should pop loose while being careful to stay clear of the boot. Before I loosen the nut I put white out on the threads so I put it about the same spot when you put the new one on. LIke he said, loosen nut or sleeve and the end should just screw off.

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