Nightshade

With that type of power if you were just going for a pure spl setup I'd say that .6-.7 cubes would be just fine. If you actually plan on listening to the enclosure then I'd go no smaller than .9 cubes. I've played around with boxes this small before with other subs and though they weren't nearly as capable as the sa10 in approx. .85 cubes ported per sub 2 Pioneer 10's sounded great and played into the mid 30hz range quite well. Thanks a lot bro..... Enclosure to be built for this sa10"s are pretty much for music which I'm not quite familiar since I'm more on the spl side. This infos will be very helpful for me. Do you happened to know also the sub displacement for a sa10"? It wasn't included when specs were given. Was is 0.10 ? I know that the displacement for the sa12 is .14 so I'd guess that .10 is probably about right on. The only difference in the 10 and 12 would be the size of the actual basket since they use the same mag as one another. I'm not sure how much a few hundredths of a cube would affect the actual box if at all so if you went off of that number you should be good.

What I was planning on doing was port up and subs up. So what you are saying is I should put the port up but put it on the driver side? What I mean by port on the driver's side is putting the port on the actual side of the box meaning the side that's on the driver's side of the car. That would have the subs firing up and the ports firing out the side of the box towards the driver side of the vehicle. I am willing to bet that you'll be louder with either the subs firing back and the ports up or the subs firing up and the ports to the driver's side then you would be with everything firing up. My first install in my ZX3 with 2 Nightshade 12's was both subs and port firing up. The score it did on the dash was a 145.8 off of 1800 watts. I built a new box with the subs up and ports back and did a 147.8 off the same power. The only other thing I changed other than the way the ports were firing was that I used flared ports instead of a slot port like I did in the first try with the setup. In your case I'd have to guess that loudest will be the side firing port configuration, but subs back and ports up may just sound better since the woofers have a direct wall to load off of making it so you don't hear some of the mechanical noise that they may make.

Imo, I'd go with 6 cubes total after woofer and port displacement. Then I'd probably use either of these 3 combinations for ports, a single flared 10" port, 3 6" flared ports, or 6 4" flared ports. The length of the ports depends on the desired tuning of the box. In my case I have 4 of the sa12's in 6.5 cubes after displacement with 6 4" aeroports that tune the box to 36hz. It plays very loud and very low too. It peaks in my car around 39-44hz just by the ear since I haven't actually metered the box yet. Also for your box I would do either the subs up and port to the driver's side, subs up port back, or even subs back and port up. I've tried all 3 of these combinations in my car with different enclosures and the loudest I've scored with is subs up and port to driver's side, but subs back and port up wasn't too far behind. Good luck and if you need any help just ask.

With that type of power if you were just going for a pure spl setup I'd say that .6-.7 cubes would be just fine. If you actually plan on listening to the enclosure then I'd go no smaller than .9 cubes. I've played around with boxes this small before with other subs and though they weren't nearly as capable as the sa10 in approx. .85 cubes ported per sub 2 Pioneer 10's sounded great and played into the mid 30hz range quite well.

Should be there to pick mine up tomorrow since I got delayed on Monday and couldn't make it. Kinda sad that I don't get to see all that was there since I'm sure a lot of it will be sent out by the time I get there to pick mine up.

Trade for a single 4 ohm Fi X 12? I have one of them in my wife's car and I'm looking for something to get her amp down to 2 ohms where it will make max power. I clamped it playing around and at 4 ohms nominal it rises up to 7.4 ohms and the amp is making 164 watts. I'm definate that dropping the impedence down closer to where it should be run will make quite a difference. Let me know if your interested.

Trade for some 1/0 wire? I have 25ft of Silver Tsunami 1/0 with a 4200 strand count of ofc wire that I would be willing to trade. I've owned this amp in the past and it is very nice and well priced. Edit: Also have some Second Skin Damp Pro in black, and Second Skin Spl tiles if that is of more interest to you. Plenty of references as well.

T3 T2000 since it's the highest quality driver that you listed. JD is one of the best guys out there in the industry and has worked on several of the best woofers in the world. He has a history and the experience to make a superior product to most out there. Also his subs are just fucking sexy as hell too. If I didn't run Sundown Audio you can mark my words that I would more than likely have T3 woofers in my car.

Micah bought an amp and some 1/0 terminals and paid very fast. He is a great guy to deal with and I would reccomend him to anyone.

Steve, I want the other one for sure then since they're selling out from under me when I was the first to ask about it. I can either pay you now via paypal or whatever you want to do. I won't be able to pick it up for a little bit though, or I can just get it from you in Greenville. I'm going to text you back now so you see that before this, but I got dibs on it.

I will more than likely want one from you Steve. Did you send me a text about these batts? If so I'll respond to you there.

You might be better off putting something like that on ebay. I've seen them on there quite a bit and seems to be the market for them. Good luck with the sale!!!

Here are the results for the show if anyone is interested in them. My score that I did was with my 2 15 daily box instead of the 1 15 spl box that I normally use in NSPL. It still was louder than what I did with the spl box at NSPL finals and would be loud enough for a new world record in the class. Anyway the spl box is a little bit over a db louder so look for some mean scores coming out of the ZX3 here very soon. I'm officially looking to claim the title of world's loudest ZX3 without a wall and I think that I have it, just need to get a certified score so it's legit. Thanks go out to everyone who was able to make it to the show today! I think the new time frame for the show helped thinks flow smoother and we finished on time. We will be announcing the future dates in High Point this week upcoming, so for now go get LOUDER! Eastgate Electronics 3/21/10 Class Competitor Score Place Beginner 1001-1800 Jason Hess 130.3 1 Car 3601-up Team High X-cursion Zach 152.7 1 No Wall 0-24 Team Eastgate Ryan 147.9 1 No Wall 0-2500 Team Eastgate Ryan 147.9 1 No Wall 0-2500 Jason Huneycutt 146.3 2 No Wall 2501 5000 Team Pawn Way Nick 149.4 1 No Wall 25-48 Team Pawn Way Nick 149.5 1 No Wall 25-48 Jason Huneycutt 148.5 2 No Wall 25-48 Kevin Bishop 137.8 3 No Wall 49-up Brian Williams 151.1 1 No Wall 49-up Team Eastgate Lendell 141.6 2 No Wall Hardcore 0-24 Team Eastgate Ryan 150.6 1 No Wall Hardcore 25-up Team Pawn Way Nick 151.3 1 Streetbass 120-129.9 Kevin Bullins 129.9 1 Streetbass 120-129.9 Team Eastgate Dee 129.7 2 Streetbass 120-129.9 Team Eastgate Ryan 129.6 3 Streetbass 130-139.9 Team High X-cursion Zach 139.9 1 Streetbass 130-139.9 Team Pawn Way Nick 139.2 2 Streetbass 130-139.9 Team Eastgate Malcom 139 3 Truck/suv 1801-3600 Team Eastgate Anthony 147.9 1 Truck/suv 3601-up James Woods 146.7 1 Trunk 0-1800 Team Eastgate Dee 145 1 Trunk Hardcore Team Eastgate Dee 146.9 1 Wall 5001-10000 Team Eastgate Auten 151.5 1 Wall Hardcore 5001-10000 Team Eastgate Auten 157.4 1

Singer is my boy and all but I think that he'll agree with me on this cat being one of the greatest flex vehicles of all time. Not to mention one of the guy's that taught him how to flex in the first place. None other than Steve Mick, enjoy!!! Oh yeah this vid was made by Singer too.

Imo it's going to be a Sundown 4 channel as long as it's going to be a sax model. The sax amps have a very very tweekable crossover making active setups possible and with the Rockford or AQ you don't have as much freedom to bypass passive xovers and go full active. It is still possible, but you would need a tweeter with a very low fs to be able to be xovered at 500hz in the Rockford. With the Sundown you will have all the way up to 3300hz to xover the tweet and the same with the mid if you want to. This is why it gets my vote.

That's cool it really is a small world. Who are your neighbors if you don't mind me asking. Also if you want I'll pm you my phone number in case you need any details on the NSPL show at all.

I'm in Greensboro NC, and origionally from Mansfield OH. I see that your from Ashland Ohio. I graduated from Ashland High School in 2001. I know that Greebsboro isn't exactly right by Jacksonville but let me know what your doing next Sunday since there's a NSPL show in High Point that I should be going to.

I'm getting on now Meade. I'll send a friend request and if you wanna play some we can get down. My gamertag is N1ghtshade15

The rental looks like it has quite a bit of potential.

I agree. The sa's can take a ton of power more than what they are rated to. That doesn't mean that they need a pair of 1500's strapped per woofer but with some common sense I don't see why a pair of sa's couldn't take 2500-3500 watts of power.

Nice Jake! Those look pretty darn cool. I'm going to guess that they will do right around 3K with some solid voltage coming into them. What is the msrp and online pricing going to look like on it?

Should be a nice change to get the Hoe painted a new color. Before your done with the thing its basically going to be a whole new car. Any chance there will be an engine upgrade in the future? I'm sure that the people that advertise your Tahoe in their literature would love to have some new pics of a freshly painted SMD vehicle to represent their line of stuff. Hope it makes the XS Power catalog agian after the new color.

I would wait then until I had enough money to buy some better quality subs. I know the feeling of wanting to get going so you can have some nice bass, but it's going to pay off more in the long run if you wait it out and get a higher quality sub. Also the fact that you are doing an 8" woofer is another reason that quality is so important. With a smaller driver like that your going to need all you can get from it and using a lesser sub is going to compromise the output by quite a bit over one that is built more specifically for your type of application. I'm assuming that you want to get loud since you are deciding on going with more cone area and is why I'm suggesting more of a spl type solution for you. A cvr is nothing more than an oversized midbass woofer. It uses a small motor and has poor throw. You'd be better off running the Tang Band neo 8's from parts express honestly. Just be patient and wait until you can get something to do it right the first time around or you'll be left wanting more, which you probably will no matter what anyway. But at least you won't be stuck trying to sell stuff that has a poor resale value rather than something that will sell easily and hold it's value well.

That is where Simon is supposed to ride at. One Simon = more power for your amps then all the batteries in every car in the world. Simon is more powerful than the legendary flux capicator that Jake had in his Jeep. They were gonna make a Back to the Future 4 but when Simon wouldn't supply power for the Delorian the movie was cancled, true story Looks good guys. I never thought Brandon would actually get around to getting that box finished let alone actually into the vehicle. Now hopefully nothing else breaks on the truck since it will actually be loud for once, sorry Randy j/k

It depends on how loose the suspension on each woofer is, if the impedence jumps around when using a dmm to read the coils, how much lead is left on the subs from previous installs, the color of the coil if it is dark or burnt at all, also if the tinsel leads are showing through the spiders (I've seen this before on DD subs and you know they are on the way out if you can start to see tinsels coming through). If everything were to check out and you can hear them demoed first before you buy them I'd probably pay $200-$225 at the absolute most. The woofer is easily reconable with a recone bought from DD or any other company that does recones and you would have yourself a motor with new soft parts basically equaling a new woofer with whatever cosmetic blemishes on the motor/basket. The 2500 series woofers are better than a DC Level 3 to put it in comparrison for those of you that are unaware of the DD line. Also by better than I mean louder, not necessarily better sounding. I've seen some serious numbers out of 2500's and around 3K watts of power for burps. Over 150's in an explorer with a pair of 15's, so I'd give em a go if it were the right price.