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Posts posted by sayhuh?
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Did you not do a test with two runs of cca? I thought that was the whole argument because it's half the price???
Also, what about ground? Does that matter?
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F you all. My shit is all silver.
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Hmm. Steve, I may be able to sell them both for you. I'll let you know in about 2 hours. (Waiting for his ass to relieve me from work lol)
BTW, Envy...as in, I stopped updating my home pc cause I bout the Asus gaming laptop to play while at work so the wife quits bitching about me playing at home.
Sweet frikken set up!
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Let's just say that you had access to two engines. One engine made 400hp and one made 500hp. The 500hp engine costs more money.
There would be no point at which one could say that the 400hp engine was superior to the 500hp engine, assuming horsepower was the only metric. However, one can rationalize why the 400hp engine is a better value but that still won't make it a 500hp engine.
How does that apply to this argument?
it doesnt. because you cant put 2 engines in one engine bay. would a 800hp engine that costs less than a 500hp engine be better? engines are a TERRIBLE analogy for this.
Better yet. Same car, you have a 400 HP motor for $4k and a 500 HP motor for $6k. I'd go 400 HP for $4k, then buy a blower for about $2-3k (S/C or turbo and cost is dependent on vehicle) and end up with more HP than the 500 HP. Of course, this is theory. Results may ALWAYS vary...as well as price.
Anyways, back to learning. Thanks Tony. Granted it won't change the mind sets of most, but at least the info is there!
lol an engine that cost more, cost more for a reason. you just cant toss a blower or any power adder to a motor with cast steel internals(if you do you have to be very careful and keep an eye on the boost).. you can build a 400hp motor and a 500hp motor for the same cost .. what will make a engine cost more is the type of internals you use..
to better help this topic lets say the 500hp has forged internals and the 400hp has cast steel.. wont you rather get the more expensive and have a reliable engine. or cheap out and get an engine that will blow up the second you turn it 6500 rpm?
what im seeing here is that everyone is missing the point to what he is trying to say
That was kinda my point/ thought. (hence, results may vary) I see exactly what snafu was saying, but also see what others are saying. It's one of those...if you do this, you can also get this, but if I do this, it may work better, but I can't do that...and so on and so on. Just to many variables. If car audio (and engines) were direct and to the point with no variables (and difference of opinion), then it wouldn't be much of a hobby or competition. Straight forward and to the point seems less interesting.
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Let's just say that you had access to two engines. One engine made 400hp and one made 500hp. The 500hp engine costs more money.
There would be no point at which one could say that the 400hp engine was superior to the 500hp engine, assuming horsepower was the only metric. However, one can rationalize why the 400hp engine is a better value but that still won't make it a 500hp engine.
How does that apply to this argument?
it doesnt. because you cant put 2 engines in one engine bay. would a 800hp engine that costs less than a 500hp engine be better? engines are a TERRIBLE analogy for this.
Better yet. Same car, you have a 400 HP motor for $4k and a 500 HP motor for $6k. I'd go 400 HP for $4k, then buy a blower for about $2-3k (S/C or turbo and cost is dependent on vehicle) and end up with more HP than the 500 HP. Of course, this is theory. Results may ALWAYS vary...as well as price.
Anyways, back to learning. Thanks Tony. Granted it won't change the mind sets of most, but at least the info is there!
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Plastidip is some good stuff! Been using it to kill some of the chrome on my truck.
Looks great!
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Fuckface?!?!?! Post them lol You're almost as bad as Berger and the hummer thread.
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I can buys prototype? I need a small 'sub' for my truck
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^^^ BRB, gonna go f up my shit real quick
Looks great man!
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^^ same here. Started in 08, but lurked for ever. I can't even remember how I came across this site lol
Congrats and thanks for a site that pretty much covers it all!
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Haha Good shit Steve. Audiofanatic and I kinda went into the light discussion in your original post. All I know, is the 10 dollar reptile bulbs, while they will work, would prob take for ever. 5 Minutes on that black light isn't bad at all! Go big on the nano's or let the sun do it!
Now only if I could come up with a project to try this out.
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I wanted that AVBM for the car so bad and since I couldn't have it, I sold the car and bought a truck lol
Between this and the Honda, I can't wait to see your crazy ass do the van!
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But but Steve, if I give you an idea and you use it, then I am a superstar! lol
Looks great man. What happened to the 'two week delay' hahaha. Which is why I would trust you with my car. I know your love, pride and OCD will mean great outcome.
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2005 VW GTI 1.8t
Whats the year make model and engine size of your vehicle?Looks great!
I'm with Steve. Also, any idea to find out if your car is PCM controlled?
EDIT: Didn't mean to t/j!
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Looks great!
I'm with Steve. Also, any idea to find out if your car is PCM controlled?
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Thanks for the unneeded inputs to all the second skin 'employees'...
Any way, I got the dealer to do the underpinning and some spray that keeps the barnacles and nasty other shit from the Chesapeake from sticking and making it hard to clean and from keeping water from seeping into the floor and sitting with the wood.
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Will the spectrum work on the under side of a Pontoon boat? I want it for added protection from the wakes slamming against the underneath. I tried to get underpinning, but not available. Boo!
Or would I be best with a bed liner of sorts?
This is what I got
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Low-end Product
LoL
Why does it matter? Does anyone know what the jdfhguiahersgv in front of x product stands for? Some yes, most no.
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that being said, i think a 1/0 pos/neg would probably yield a higher reading on the dyno. How much? I don't know. I am going to set up a sick ass test bench for all this stuff and have all sorts of options available on it. I will be doing experiments on all sorts of scenario's.Many props to that amp. 8ga wire under 14v @ .5 ohm and it didn't pop!
Can't wait to see the power wire tests. That is what intrigues me the most. People read the wire does 300a and think I only need one run or two, but they don't put into consideration the loss over foot after foot of wire (15' run won't be 300a). Most of us lose wattage solely from under powering the 'power' to the amp(s).
I'm definitely tuned in. I don't think people realize on how big of a learning curve this could be for the business itself. I mean, people have ran tests, but this could put a lot of great info out there for people to use. BTW, still haven't gotten the bar apart to install the new plexi and decals. Wifey is excited to see it done
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What is the length of the 100.2? Debating on one for my kicks.
May 10th still the expected date?
~Mike
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Many props to that amp. 8ga wire under 14v @ .5 ohm and it didn't pop!
Can't wait to see the power wire tests. That is what intrigues me the most. People read the wire does 300a and think I only need one run or two, but they don't put into consideration the loss over foot after foot of wire (15' run won't be 300a). Most of us lose wattage solely from under powering the 'power' to the amp(s).
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Never heard that. Actually heard the opposite. Strapping some times does more power. I could very well be wrong, but I believe there is a 'strapping' module in these amps allowing for them to be strapped and balanced 'equally'. Or something like that lol
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More info on the output meter? What exactly is its purpose? (noob question lol)
Love how the all turn on
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FREE EDUCATION
in D'Amore Engineering - High Quality Car Audio Installation Tools & Accessories
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^^^ When you finally find time to sleep lol