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sayhuh?

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Posts posted by sayhuh?

  1. Hmm. Steve, I may be able to sell them both for you. I'll let you know in about 2 hours. (Waiting for his ass to relieve me from work lol)

    BTW, Envy...as in, I stopped updating my home pc cause I bout the Asus gaming laptop to play while at work so the wife quits bitching about me playing at home. ;)

    Sweet frikken set up!

  2. Let's just say that you had access to two engines. One engine made 400hp and one made 500hp. The 500hp engine costs more money.

    There would be no point at which one could say that the 400hp engine was superior to the 500hp engine, assuming horsepower was the only metric. However, one can rationalize why the 400hp engine is a better value but that still won't make it a 500hp engine.

    How does that apply to this argument?

    it doesnt. because you cant put 2 engines in one engine bay. would a 800hp engine that costs less than a 500hp engine be better? engines are a TERRIBLE analogy for this.

    Better yet. Same car, you have a 400 HP motor for $4k and a 500 HP motor for $6k. I'd go 400 HP for $4k, then buy a blower for about $2-3k (S/C or turbo and cost is dependent on vehicle) and end up with more HP than the 500 HP. Of course, this is theory. Results may ALWAYS vary...as well as price. :ehh:

    Anyways, back to learning. Thanks Tony. Granted it won't change the mind sets of most, but at least the info is there!

    lol an engine that cost more, cost more for a reason. you just cant toss a blower or any power adder to a motor with cast steel internals(if you do you have to be very careful and keep an eye on the boost).. you can build a 400hp motor and a 500hp motor for the same cost .. what will make a engine cost more is the type of internals you use..

    to better help this topic lets say the 500hp has forged internals and the 400hp has cast steel.. wont you rather get the more expensive and have a reliable engine. or cheap out and get an engine that will blow up the second you turn it 6500 rpm?

    what im seeing here is that everyone is missing the point to what he is trying to say

    That was kinda my point/ thought. (hence, results may vary) I see exactly what snafu was saying, but also see what others are saying. It's one of those...if you do this, you can also get this, but if I do this, it may work better, but I can't do that...and so on and so on. Just to many variables. If car audio (and engines) were direct and to the point with no variables (and difference of opinion), then it wouldn't be much of a hobby or competition. Straight forward and to the point seems less interesting.

  3. Let's just say that you had access to two engines. One engine made 400hp and one made 500hp. The 500hp engine costs more money.

    There would be no point at which one could say that the 400hp engine was superior to the 500hp engine, assuming horsepower was the only metric. However, one can rationalize why the 400hp engine is a better value but that still won't make it a 500hp engine.

    How does that apply to this argument?

    it doesnt. because you cant put 2 engines in one engine bay. would a 800hp engine that costs less than a 500hp engine be better? engines are a TERRIBLE analogy for this.

    Better yet. Same car, you have a 400 HP motor for $4k and a 500 HP motor for $6k. I'd go 400 HP for $4k, then buy a blower for about $2-3k (S/C or turbo and cost is dependent on vehicle) and end up with more HP than the 500 HP. Of course, this is theory. Results may ALWAYS vary...as well as price. :ehh:

    Anyways, back to learning. Thanks Tony. Granted it won't change the mind sets of most, but at least the info is there!

  4. Many props to that amp. 8ga wire under 14v @ .5 ohm and it didn't pop!

    Can't wait to see the power wire tests. That is what intrigues me the most. People read the wire does 300a and think I only need one run or two, but they don't put into consideration the loss over foot after foot of wire (15' run won't be 300a). Most of us lose wattage solely from under powering the 'power' to the amp(s).

    that being said, i think a 1/0 pos/neg would probably yield a higher reading on the dyno. How much? I don't know. I am going to set up a sick ass test bench for all this stuff and have all sorts of options available on it. I will be doing experiments on all sorts of scenario's.

    I'm definitely tuned in. I don't think people realize on how big of a learning curve this could be for the business itself. I mean, people have ran tests, but this could put a lot of great info out there for people to use. BTW, still haven't gotten the bar apart to install the new plexi and decals. Wifey is excited to see it done :)

  5. Many props to that amp. 8ga wire under 14v @ .5 ohm and it didn't pop!

    Can't wait to see the power wire tests. That is what intrigues me the most. People read the wire does 300a and think I only need one run or two, but they don't put into consideration the loss over foot after foot of wire (15' run won't be 300a). Most of us lose wattage solely from under powering the 'power' to the amp(s).

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