kickass audio

This really depends on a few things. first off, how many cca amps is your batt you have in the car now? or how about the power output from your alt? I have a 1998 oldsmobile 88 for my car. it came with a stock 690 cca wet cell batt with a 140 amp alt. i started with a little 200 watt 2 channel amp for my little 150 watt powered woofer. then i stepped up to a 900 watt amp. the 900 watt amp is what really made my power dim at heavy bass hits, but i had it wired at 2 ohms. remember this, the lower your resistance level, the more power your amp will suck to get the output rating of the amp. in my opinion, when i ran my 900 watt amp, it performed great as long as my car was running. if i tried to crank my radio up without the engine on, the batt would die so fast that after 5 minutes, i wouldnt be able to start the engine. > but i upgraded my batt to an xs power s3400 and that puppy cranks some power. i just had that tested today and it puts out 1130 crank amps!!! thats wayyy over what xs rates it. with that batt i can run my behemoth of an amp at 1400 watts for 30 minutes without having the power drop below 12.5v with the engine off. So all in all, i wouldnt go more than like 700 watts rms, or lower than 2 ohms. if you do, then you will draw tons of current and kill your batt fast (trust me, i have soo many times and it sucks to ask random creeps for a jump) hahaa. any questions feel free to ask.

Hello, Figured this would be a good place to ask this. is this amp that great to buy? everybody who does installs like me said that the specs are impressive but does it sound that great? and i also saw a post on here about a guy melting the fets on his au3500. i dont want to buy a crappy amp by any means. any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated. PS: im using a 12" kicker solox dual 4 ohms (so i can either run it to 2 or 8 ohms) and i want the 2500 rms to go to it. Thanks everybody

Whats the specs of it? i know its a old machine just judging by the pics i see of that model online. but if you want it as a basic web machine just get the powersupply. if anything use tigerdirect.com or someplace like that. they sell damn good computer parts really cheap. if i lived by you id put it in for you, i know that kind of stuff like a pro.

Yupp, judging by that, im 99% sure that your motherboard is fried. Try this: 1.) Disconnect your power cable from the desktop 2.) With the power cable disconnected press and hold the power button for about 15 seconds straight (this will discharge any remaining power within the tower) 3.) after 15 seconds, connect the power cable back to the power supply and try to power back on 4.) if anything id recommend that you have the case off just to see if the fan will even move a little bit. if the fan starts to move but then stops it is a power problem and the computers power supply is probably shorting out and is turning off to prevent the computer from catching on fire 5.) I had this problem with my old dell dimension 8200, check the motherboard screws (dont starts messing with them if you have no clue what you are doing as you can really mess things up) and see if when you loosen them slightly if it turns on My old dimension 8200 had a motherboard warping affect where it would cause the computer to turn off randomly because one screw was tightened too much. 6.) Just to be safe, i would HIGHLY recommend that you disconnect your hard drive when doing ALL of this work!!!! If anything, take the hard drive right out of the machine because where its at now, the data can be recovered on it, if you happen to make a mistake and send a jolt of power across the wrong circuit, you can fry your hard drive and make the content on it unusable. Always back up your files and when this happens i ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS disconnect the hard drive as a safety measure. Best of luck, reply back with your results.

im a big computer tech and i know dells inside and out. first.. do you hear any beeping when trying to turn it on? or how about this.. on the back of the tower there will be 4 led's right where the connections are for the motherboard. they usually are labeled either 1,2,3,4 or a,b,c,d. look to see what the colors of them are when trying to start the computer up. if any of them are amber tell me the order of them. Such as 1= green 2=green 3=green 4=amber Those lights help immensely when t/s the dell motherboards and their components. Judging by the way you described it, i think your power supply is bad. which if this is true just go to compusa or a nearby computer store and buy a power supply for like $40.

bump for anybody who owns a audioque aq3500.d.1 amp. Im looking for a review or any comments about their products. i dont want to buy anything crap for my car.

youre in luck. im a computer tech for m&t bank. have you tried an external keyboard?? how about using an onscreen keyboard. if either of these options work, then it will tell you whether your keyboard shorted out, or if someone screwed with the programming of your keys. ppl are smartasses out there and i had a few calls from the bank where some kid would set the keyboards to a European keyboard layout and really screw up things. message me on here for a faster reply. best of luck!!

thats cool. thanks for the reply!! Now the hard part.... finding a place around me that has 2/0. i got my 1/0 for free since the jackass dealer near my house sold me 4 gauge and said it would handle the power i was drawing (and yes at the time i had no clue like i do now about car audio) but it burned the wire at my fuse and burnt the fuse block and didnt break the fuse at all!! but oh well. i was a bitch and got 1/0 for free. cant go wrong with a freebie. But hey, since im looking at buying the audioque aq3500.d.1. do you think this is a good amp? i have a precision power amp (as stated earlier in the post) and that amp kicks ass but its not giving my woofer the full power it can take.

bump for a hope of getting a response about whether i should run 0 gauge from front to back as a ground (battery to battery)

i more of the less meant to get a decal or something. im gonna be buying some when i get my truck. my car i have is gonna be junked out soon so im not going to waste my money putting it on something that im getting rid of.

Dang dude, id love to have some second skin to try out. hell, i tell all my friends about steve meade so why not spread the business about second skin?? Let me know and ill give you my info to send it at.

But heres another question. since the aq 3500 takes 2 0 gauge pos and neg terminal connections, would it be ok to just take 2 short runs of 0 gauge from the d3100 im putting in my trunk or should i use 2 0 gauge from my s3400 (in my hood) to my future d3100 (in the trunk). i only have 1 0 gauge positive running from my engine bays battery to the cap in my trunk. and from the cap i have a little 3 foot ground cable to my chassis.

Thanks for the replies so far. As for my electrical, i run it all on 0 gauge from front to back and the amp is retarded and has 4 gauge for a input (stupid as hell i know) so im using my old shitty 1 farad cap as a distro block. The battery i have a xs power s3400, and im buying a d3100 for in the trunk to replace the cap and to get more power. and im going to buy a 300 amp alt from excessiveamperage.com for $480. it idles at 200 amps so i think that would be decent enough. id get a dual alt but my car cant handle that since its a 98 olds 88 with a 3.8 liter v-6 engine. So again, right now, im running a s-3400, with a 1 farad cap (that drains in a milli-second), 0 gauge throughout, and the stock 140 amp alt (for now)

Hello all, I currently own one Precision Power pc2350 amplifier and one 4 Ohm Kicker Solox (12"). My amplifier is a 2 channel amp (go ahead and trash talk, everybody does) and it pushes out 1400 watts rms on a 4-8 ohm bridge. Since my woofer has dual 4 ohm coils, i wired them up in series to make a 8 ohm load at the amp so that way i wont screw up the bridge of the amp. My question is... I was thinking of buying another one of these amps since i love how this amp performs, but is it possible to take the same 2 model amps and use them to power 1 woofer?? And another question... If you dont suggest that i run a 2 channel amp, what monoblock amp would you suggest i get so that i can run at 2500 watts rms (the woofers power handling) and have it on at the least a 2 ohm load? Hope to see everybodys replies on this. Thanks in advance!!!