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ChevyBoy95
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Posts posted by ChevyBoy95
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19 hours ago, Kyblack76 said:
Great job TD, looks mean as shit
thanks. We shall see once I play with the ports for a bit.
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I use flickr, Since i have a yahoo account it is free and has no adds.
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3 hours ago, rocking.that.eclipse said:
Yup my 3k would throw distortion light randomly. quarter volume light on, half volume no light, could sneeze and light would go on.
So yea, guess it is more popular than I thought.
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2 hours ago, WalledSonic said:
Why doesnt the DD-1 work with Taramps? Is the THD too high or something?
I use an oscope now, but back when I had a DD-1, the old HD6500 I had would throw the distortion light at any volume (probably due to noise in the amp) which couldnt be heard through the subs, but the dd-1 picked it up as distortion.
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For what it is worth, I have a 2.5+ KDR with a 1.7 W/L playing mostly solo and run 3-5 sensitivity.
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31 minutes ago, moh.vze.com said:
I saw someone on earlier with an SMD tag
Also, are those KontrolFreaks thumb joystick add-ons worth it for the PS4 Controller? I have trouble moving the cross hair left to right without accidentally moving it slightly up or down.
You sure your sensitivity is correct? Those are just for fine adjustment, but can easily be played without. More of a feel thing, I tried them and hated them.
Start a private lobby with bots and run around with a gun you like, use it at whatever range it should be used (SMG - short to medium, Rifle - med to long in most cases) and see what causes you to not land your shots (on bots you should be hitting almost every bullet). Do you sweep from left to right/right to left past before correcting back? Sens is too high. IF you play mostly SMG, run a higher sens, like 6-8, if mostly rifles, like 4-6. But then again it is all feel. I would try changing just your vertical sensitivity alone (but think you just need to play more to get used to it), but if you are accidentally moving it up and down, could be you arent comfortable with the controller yet in faster paced FPS settings.
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8 hours ago, Fifthflo said:
Ok thanks homies. Yea it’s rms. I got an 8k on subs. Which still ain’t enough and 3.2k on mids n highs. I’m unable to run big alts due to the pulley on them I’ll burn them. I’m in the middle of getting a pro charger installed so largest I can do is 250. I’ve got two d3400 under hood I’m just trying to get my shit together so that my volts don’t fall through the floor lol
Yea, just keep in mind, with a smaller alternator set up and bigger bank, if voltage gets low, it takes a bit longer to charge up than multiple alternators on lesser number of batteries. All in all, it is easily doable to do what you want to do. Buy some batts, aluminum or copper bar stock, drill and tap, and your ready to go.
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As someone who has ran that much power, I had dual alts (320 and a 270a) and 6 group 31's plus stock group 34 to stay in the low 13's and high 12's. You could probably get away with 5 - 6 batteries on 1 alterator
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54 minutes ago, 420ninja said:
i have a 99 chevy 240 alt and the smal under hood voltage jumper but i have 2 now and can i tap into the same jumper to increase the voltage with out another $100 i dont have
Dont get hung up on voltage, current is king (whether you charge at 13.9 or 14.5 aint going to make a difference when the knob go to the right). Voltage under load is all that matters, and raising your unloaded voltage is almost useless.
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I would NEVER advise mounting an amplifier to a box (something that vibrates). One of the biggest causes of failure for amplifiers is vibration.
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16 minutes ago, S15_Silvia said:
Voltage dropping so hard it looked like the hazards were on..
i think they do have their hazards on
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3 minutes ago, moh.vze.com said:
how they bump at idle so long without voltage drop? those alts must be high output at idle
most dont do own installs and probably roasting equipment constantly. Kinda doubt any of these systems are on "real" power. Running say 5-6kw at idle and holding 13+ is easy to do without much charging, just need batts. Seems to be more about how loud can I get this trashcan full of rocks to sound rather than how actually loud it is (most of us look for bass with no rattle, but tearing metal is part of it; I knew some local shop owners who said people came to him to add in loose metal into trunks to make it "louder").
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3 hours ago, Keith77 said:
Dana is hot... She hasnt hit the im a dude stage.
Dont be mad cause she can bench more then you.
If i cover her face with my thumb, all i see is a guy in a sports bra.... so.... nah.
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Ive never had an issue. 1/0 with 50mm die and 2/0 with 70mm die on the 16 ton set. 2/0 70mm die would probably work well for 1/0 car audio wire with ~5000 strands where as 1/0 welding is more like 1 gauge. Picture I attached is EB Flex 2/0 (68mm cable) with the 70mm die with 2/0 marine lug.
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the 16 ton i bought had dies up to like 4/0 or even slightly bigger down to 4ga ish
6 gauge to 600MCM
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does anyone know how loud zv5s can get and the sound quality for 2 12s?
No, depends on too many factors to count.
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or the one across from her
The dude?
with the hitler stache?
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even if it worked that shit wont stop in time.. the fuck are they even thinking.. are people that lazy or too stupid to need a car that parks for them or stops for them?
exactly, if you need aids for that kind of stuff, you shouldnt have a license.
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Grand tour was good but had some cringe worthy momments
You can tell they tried hard to change up the format a bit, but really its the same damn show. Intro I thought was gratuitous, but still love watching the new top gear with a new title.
yea, it's a formula that doesnt really need to charge. i feel like the show will get better/funnier/etc as time goes on as they get comfortable again in the new format.
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Well, electrons flow from the "negative" to the "positive" which is taught as electron flow/current. The other way is current flows from "positive" to "negative" which is called conventional current. Which one you use to think is irrelevant, as long as you know which is which.
http://web.engr.oregonstate.edu/~traylor/ece112/beamer_lectures/elect_flow_vs_conv_I.pdf
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Ok so i have seen many different answers on this and I am wondering on what is the correct answer. so my head unit is a pioneer FHX-520ui
now on the head unit there is a bass Level, not bass boost but bass level it goes from -24 to + 6 its default setting is 0 when i am DD-1 tuning my set up should i set this at 0 or+ 6 or somewhere in between, i'm assuming this is Gain from the rca outputs, and if it does not matter what are the beniffits of tuning at 0 or +6 i just want to tune it for the best possible output, what i am currently running is in my signature as well, I also plan on upgrading to an AVH deck with 4v pream outputs because i feel like i can get better bass response out of these subs.
You would in reality need a scope to be sure. But generally brands stick to a certain way. Alpines generally need sub level at max, kenwoods are at 0, not sure on pioneers though.
Without knowing, I would leave it at zero since when you DD-1 the amp it will compensate with the gain to still give you the max unclipped ACV out of the amplifier.
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http://i.imgur.com/mAIyc5F.gifv
edit: ^^worth the watch
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Rims are all personal preference man,not trying to be a dick but all those rims are terrible
We're all entitled to our own opinion.
Yea, I think they look pretty sweet. Would be cool to see a photoshop or render of them on the vehicle though.
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serious, he took like what, 5, 6 steps?
only 4 almost full strides.... lol, basketball is my favorite sport, but the NBA is a fucking joke.
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B2 Audio Reference (4 chan)
in B2 Audio
Posted · Edited by ChevyBoy95
Kyle , pm Jeffrey Hald on fb or swordlordboy (?) on here. He is about to run 2 of them in his SQ car... like a legit SQ car.