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ChevyBoy95

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Posts posted by ChevyBoy95

  1. I don't mean to pick, but what are you asking suggestions/feedback of? Electrical upgrades, box design (which it seems like youre already set on), running 2 12's on a 2500, etc.? Just not sure what you are asking.

  2. 10 hours ago, Denali beats said:

    I've reviewed the manual, and watched all the videos. My problem is, I don't really understand everything. I know the basics. I understand HOW it works. I just don't understand how to properly set my gains inside the processor. I've done installs before, but never with a processor. So this is new territory for me. And I'd rather LEARN what I'm doing, rather than handing it off to someone else, to complete. At that point, it becomes someone else's build. I take pride in the work I do. I'm s custom cabinet maker by trade. I have the tools to do everything, just don't know how to use the technical tools. (ie), audio control RTA, and such. And, yes, you bring a very valid point to the table of: expensive, and not very many people have them. However, this whole forum is based on expensive equipment, and the people who are on this forum, have great knowledge, and tips to help others. Unfortunately, I grew up with old school people who generously shared information, because they wanted others to learn what they knew, and go beyond. And in today's society, it feels like the attitude is: knowledge is to be sold, not to be told. I would love for people to get back to old school ways, and want to see their peers on the same, or higher level of skills, so more information and ideas can be brought to the forefront of audio installation and fabrication. Maybe a pipe dream, but would be nice, nonetheless. Appreciate your input. 

    1. What type of input are you using? RCA's? Speaker level inputs?

    2. If you aren't clipping the unit, do you know what VAC you are getting into the unit before turning its gain up? Say at max volume if you headunit only outputs 1VAC and the internal gain of the DM810 isnt high enough to hit the output rails and "clip". Just because there is no clip light being shown doesn't inherently mean a fault.

    3. If you want real real help, you have to provide some better details than what is in the original post. Its hard to start when we don't even know where the starting line is.

     

    Headunit model

    Settings of the headunit model

    How the signal gets to the DM810

    How you are measuring the output signal of DM810

    "how to properly set my gains inside the processor" as in through software?

    etc.

     

    Need more info.

  3. On 7/11/2023 at 10:22 AM, SnowDrifter said:

    Sorry to hear

    To debug that second battery, I have a couple questions for ya

    1. What orientation was the battery in?

    2. What's your charge voltage both when you first start the car, then again after ~30 minues?

    3. Details on your vehicle? Alternator, wiring, amps, batteries, are what I'm after

    Interested to hear the answer to these questions as well.

     

    Unfortunately I have to add that the same happened to a D680 I put in my daily that has only been in for about 4 months. Trying to work through the RMA process now even though their warranty specifically calls out they do not cover leaking. Came out and looked like the carpet in my car was wet and the top of the battery was wet all around the vents under the sticker.

  4. 2 hours ago, WalledSonic said:

    Why doesnt the DD-1 work with Taramps?  Is the THD too high or something?

    I use an oscope now, but back when I had a DD-1, the old HD6500 I had would throw the distortion light at any volume (probably due to noise in the amp) which couldnt be heard through the subs, but the dd-1 picked it up as distortion. 

  5. 31 minutes ago, moh.vze.com said:

    I saw someone on earlier with an SMD tag

    Also, are those KontrolFreaks thumb joystick add-ons worth it for the PS4 Controller? I have trouble moving the cross hair left to right without accidentally moving it slightly up or down.

    You sure your sensitivity is correct? Those are just for fine adjustment, but can easily be played without. More of a feel thing, I tried them and hated them.

    Start a private lobby with bots and run around with a gun you like, use it at whatever range it should be used (SMG - short to medium, Rifle - med to long in most cases) and see what causes you to not land your shots (on bots you should be hitting almost every bullet). Do you sweep from left to right/right to left past before correcting back? Sens is too high. IF you play mostly SMG, run a higher sens, like 6-8, if mostly rifles, like 4-6. But then again it is all feel. I would try changing just your vertical sensitivity alone (but think you just need to play more to get used to it), but if you are accidentally moving it up and down, could be you arent comfortable with the controller yet in faster paced FPS settings.

  6. 8 hours ago, Fifthflo said:

    Ok thanks homies. Yea it’s rms. I got an 8k on subs. Which still ain’t enough and 3.2k on mids n highs. I’m unable to run big alts due to the pulley on them I’ll burn them. I’m in the middle of getting a pro charger installed so largest I can do is 250. I’ve got two d3400 under hood I’m just trying to get my shit together so that my volts don’t fall through the floor lol

    Yea, just keep in mind, with a smaller alternator set up and bigger bank, if voltage gets low, it takes a bit longer to charge up than multiple alternators on lesser number of batteries. All in all, it is easily doable to do what you want to do. Buy some batts, aluminum or copper bar stock, drill and tap, and your ready to go.

  7. 54 minutes ago, 420ninja said:

    i have a 99 chevy 240 alt and the smal under hood voltage jumper but i have 2 now and can i tap into the same jumper to increase the voltage with out another $100 i dont have

    nvxkhTx.jpg

     

    Dont get hung up on voltage, current is king (whether you charge at 13.9 or 14.5 aint going to make a difference when the knob go to the right). Voltage under load is all that matters, and raising your unloaded voltage is almost useless.

  8. 3 minutes ago, moh.vze.com said:

    how they bump at idle so long without voltage drop? those alts must be high output at idle

    most dont do own installs and probably roasting equipment constantly. Kinda doubt any of these systems are on "real" power. Running say 5-6kw at idle and holding 13+ is easy to do without much charging, just need batts. Seems to be more about how loud can I get this trashcan full of rocks to sound rather than how actually loud it is (most of us look for bass with no rattle, but tearing metal is part of it; I knew some local shop owners who said people came to him to add in loose metal into trunks to make it "louder").

  9. Grand tour was good but had some cringe worthy momments

    You can tell they tried hard to change up the format a bit, but really its the same damn show. Intro I thought was gratuitous, but still love watching the new top gear with a new title.

    yea, it's a formula that doesnt really need to charge. i feel like the show will get better/funnier/etc as time goes on as they get comfortable again in the new format.

  10. Ok so i have seen many different answers on this and I am wondering on what is the correct answer. so my head unit is a pioneer FHX-520ui

    now on the head unit there is a bass Level, not bass boost but bass level it goes from -24 to + 6 its default setting is 0 when i am DD-1 tuning my set up should i set this at 0 or+ 6 or somewhere in between, i'm assuming this is Gain from the rca outputs, and if it does not matter what are the beniffits of tuning at 0 or +6 i just want to tune it for the best possible output, what i am currently running is in my signature as well, I also plan on upgrading to an AVH deck with 4v pream outputs because i feel like i can get better bass response out of these subs.

    You would in reality need a scope to be sure. But generally brands stick to a certain way. Alpines generally need sub level at max, kenwoods are at 0, not sure on pioneers though.

    Without knowing, I would leave it at zero since when you DD-1 the amp it will compensate with the gain to still give you the max unclipped ACV out of the amplifier.

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