ChevyBoy95
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Posts posted by ChevyBoy95
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On 1/15/2024 at 12:51 PM, m33ltdown said:
Looking to purchase a hifonics amp. I see a lot for good prices. Will the quality be as good as the price? 250-400 price range.. Pros and cons of hifonics if any.. Does cea2006 mean anything?
How much power are you looking for?
Look up CT Sounds. They typically have sales/discounts running and amps are proven to do rated power as well as being great value.
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I don't mean to pick, but what are you asking suggestions/feedback of? Electrical upgrades, box design (which it seems like youre already set on), running 2 12's on a 2500, etc.? Just not sure what you are asking.
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14 hours ago, Kyblack76 said:
God damn,.. you still around bro? Good shit. Build in your bio pic looks amazing. Hope you and yours are well.
Yea, just got busy.
Two kids, got married, etc. Life happened. But ive still got the truck and the 4 15's with the 12k's. Just doesnt see much road time.
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Why didnt you try enclosure changes instead of EQ's for the bass amp? The enclosure is by far the biggest component to dictating how the subwoofer will sound.
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You can wire the second battery in parallel to the existing battery. The main concern typically is the difference in battery technology (lead acid as OEM and AGM for aftermarket). In reality, there isnt anything special you need in between the stock battery and the new AGM. The only suggestion I would make is in a few years when the stock fails (due to age and use), to replace it with a like in kind battery to the AGM.
Your battery wont get "too much charge". Alternators only output to what they are asked. If you arent blasting music, they will have a low output to supply the bare minimum the car is asking for (A/C, lights, radio, etc.) and when you crank the volume it will output more as it sees a larger "load" and output as much as it can up to 220a to do whatever it can to try to maintain good voltage.
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On 10/7/2023 at 8:30 AM, Kyblack76 said:
Because your "turn on " is to low. (rpm)
x2 on this.
They need enough rpm's to start outputing. You can change the pulley size to help speed this up without changing the engine rpm. (if the alternator pulley is smaller it will spin faster at the same engine rpm).
I ran in to this a bit with my chevy as in drive it would idle around 600 rpm.
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Can you post a picture of the engine bay?
I did a custom dual alt bracket for the 95 with a 350 that I have used for like 10 years now with no issues.
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20 hours ago, linc said:
-My questions-
Amp has dual + and - inputs, going to run another line of 1/0 + to the back battery then to the amp. Will be pulling roughly 550A of current with the Smart 5. Do the double power runs split the load or will it just more efficiently deliver the power? And do I run 300A fuses on each power wire or will I need to run 600A fuses on each?
Running another set of 1/0 will essentially divide the current by two if the new run is the same as the existing. So if you have a 1/0 OFC run and have it fused for 300a, the additional run will be 1/0 OFC and fused for 300a as well. You do not put 600a fuses in.Are the American Bass XFLs a good buy and/or are there better out there for the same price or similar?
Never have ran AB stuff, not sure.
Is the Smart 5 a good buy and/or is there better out there for the same price that is recommended? Ik I will be technically overpowering the XFLs, but that’s my goal, will have gain set with the DD-1 so I’ll be at a very good power level without wanting to or even getting close to clipping.
It is hard to beat taramps for wattage/price. They do the job, ive used them for quite some time with minimal to no issues.
Will the second battery and a 320A alt be sufficient?
Two batteries and a 320a alt will be plenty for running 5kw in a daily set up to play music.
Where should I run my second ground to? Seat bolt? Stay on the frame? And if I stay on the frame, how far apart do they need to be? Second battery is also grounded to the frame.The frame will be your best bet if its a true frame (not unibody). You can add the new ground to the same bolt that the current ground is at or put it near the current one (literally next to it if you want or find a easy spot with a pre-existing frame hole to throw a bolt through).
See my comments in red.
In addition, if you cant buy the battery and HO alt at the same time, I would get the HO alt first, HO alts are a huge upgrade to any system.
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Can you post the dimensions you have to work with?
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9 hours ago, Jeep Guy 1608 said:
Çurrently running around 5700 watts RMS. Have had zero issues with it. Adding a Sundown Salt 400.2. Running 4 4ohm 10" B2 mids and a DC Audio CS 300.4 Running 4 4ohm horns.
If that's the case, I don't it making a huge different with the added mids/highs amps. If it was a jump in bass amp size, you probably would see some change. Mids/highs will be a lot more dynamic where-as the sub stage will create a more consistent load on the electrical system.
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On surface level, it looks like you'll be okay, but likely going to need to grab another D3400. And if you are going at it wide open, you will need every bit of that alternator output.
What is the current wattage you are running?
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If you are using 3/4" wood, that ask is physically impossible to achieve. Either give up more room or drop the double baffle. I used your given max space and using every bit of it without the double baffle barely gets you there... barely.
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10 hours ago, Denali beats said:
I've reviewed the manual, and watched all the videos. My problem is, I don't really understand everything. I know the basics. I understand HOW it works. I just don't understand how to properly set my gains inside the processor. I've done installs before, but never with a processor. So this is new territory for me. And I'd rather LEARN what I'm doing, rather than handing it off to someone else, to complete. At that point, it becomes someone else's build. I take pride in the work I do. I'm s custom cabinet maker by trade. I have the tools to do everything, just don't know how to use the technical tools. (ie), audio control RTA, and such. And, yes, you bring a very valid point to the table of: expensive, and not very many people have them. However, this whole forum is based on expensive equipment, and the people who are on this forum, have great knowledge, and tips to help others. Unfortunately, I grew up with old school people who generously shared information, because they wanted others to learn what they knew, and go beyond. And in today's society, it feels like the attitude is: knowledge is to be sold, not to be told. I would love for people to get back to old school ways, and want to see their peers on the same, or higher level of skills, so more information and ideas can be brought to the forefront of audio installation and fabrication. Maybe a pipe dream, but would be nice, nonetheless. Appreciate your input.
1. What type of input are you using? RCA's? Speaker level inputs?
2. If you aren't clipping the unit, do you know what VAC you are getting into the unit before turning its gain up? Say at max volume if you headunit only outputs 1VAC and the internal gain of the DM810 isnt high enough to hit the output rails and "clip". Just because there is no clip light being shown doesn't inherently mean a fault.
3. If you want real real help, you have to provide some better details than what is in the original post. Its hard to start when we don't even know where the starting line is.
Headunit model
Settings of the headunit model
How the signal gets to the DM810
How you are measuring the output signal of DM810
"how to properly set my gains inside the processor" as in through software?
etc.
Need more info.
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On 7/11/2023 at 10:22 AM, SnowDrifter said:
Sorry to hear
To debug that second battery, I have a couple questions for ya
1. What orientation was the battery in?
2. What's your charge voltage both when you first start the car, then again after ~30 minues?
3. Details on your vehicle? Alternator, wiring, amps, batteries, are what I'm afterInterested to hear the answer to these questions as well.
Unfortunately I have to add that the same happened to a D680 I put in my daily that has only been in for about 4 months. Trying to work through the RMA process now even though their warranty specifically calls out they do not cover leaking. Came out and looked like the carpet in my car was wet and the top of the battery was wet all around the vents under the sticker.
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Kyle , pm Jeffrey Hald on fb or swordlordboy (?) on here. He is about to run 2 of them in his SQ car... like a legit SQ car.
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19 hours ago, Kyblack76 said:
Great job TD, looks mean as shit
thanks. We shall see once I play with the ports for a bit.
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I use flickr, Since i have a yahoo account it is free and has no adds.
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3 hours ago, rocking.that.eclipse said:
Yup my 3k would throw distortion light randomly. quarter volume light on, half volume no light, could sneeze and light would go on.
So yea, guess it is more popular than I thought.
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2 hours ago, WalledSonic said:
Why doesnt the DD-1 work with Taramps? Is the THD too high or something?
I use an oscope now, but back when I had a DD-1, the old HD6500 I had would throw the distortion light at any volume (probably due to noise in the amp) which couldnt be heard through the subs, but the dd-1 picked it up as distortion.
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For what it is worth, I have a 2.5+ KDR with a 1.7 W/L playing mostly solo and run 3-5 sensitivity.
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31 minutes ago, moh.vze.com said:
I saw someone on earlier with an SMD tag
Also, are those KontrolFreaks thumb joystick add-ons worth it for the PS4 Controller? I have trouble moving the cross hair left to right without accidentally moving it slightly up or down.
You sure your sensitivity is correct? Those are just for fine adjustment, but can easily be played without. More of a feel thing, I tried them and hated them.
Start a private lobby with bots and run around with a gun you like, use it at whatever range it should be used (SMG - short to medium, Rifle - med to long in most cases) and see what causes you to not land your shots (on bots you should be hitting almost every bullet). Do you sweep from left to right/right to left past before correcting back? Sens is too high. IF you play mostly SMG, run a higher sens, like 6-8, if mostly rifles, like 4-6. But then again it is all feel. I would try changing just your vertical sensitivity alone (but think you just need to play more to get used to it), but if you are accidentally moving it up and down, could be you arent comfortable with the controller yet in faster paced FPS settings.
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8 hours ago, Fifthflo said:
Ok thanks homies. Yea it’s rms. I got an 8k on subs. Which still ain’t enough and 3.2k on mids n highs. I’m unable to run big alts due to the pulley on them I’ll burn them. I’m in the middle of getting a pro charger installed so largest I can do is 250. I’ve got two d3400 under hood I’m just trying to get my shit together so that my volts don’t fall through the floor lol
Yea, just keep in mind, with a smaller alternator set up and bigger bank, if voltage gets low, it takes a bit longer to charge up than multiple alternators on lesser number of batteries. All in all, it is easily doable to do what you want to do. Buy some batts, aluminum or copper bar stock, drill and tap, and your ready to go.
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As someone who has ran that much power, I had dual alts (320 and a 270a) and 6 group 31's plus stock group 34 to stay in the low 13's and high 12's. You could probably get away with 5 - 6 batteries on 1 alterator
6k RMS Car Audio System
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
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There is a rule of thumb you can use... Iv used this rule of thumb for a while and ran as much as 24kw. You will see in the real world you can get away with doing different, but as a starting point, it works.
100a of alternator for every 2000w, so you are good there, 300a of alt for 6000w.
100ah of battery for every 2000w, so you want to shoot for a good manufactured battery and about 300ah.