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Posts posted by MrSkippyJ
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11 hours ago, audiofanaticz said:
drooooooooooooools
what he said!! -
Ah well. I was going to suggest some rather large dowels but they would need to be glued.
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Do you need it to come back apart?
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Will it power it? Yes. Certainly won't hurt anything. No sure exactly what you mean by "scared of the sound quality to go with the 2 ohm version"
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6 minutes ago, Joe X said:
That amp is a single channel, the extra terminals are provided for ease of use.
Check out my previous reply.
I think those are D4 subs.
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If you are using the rf1500s then you don’t have 2 channel amps. They are single channel and the only wiring that makes any sense for you at all is wire the coils in parallel. One amp per sub.
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Ground gauge should be equal to positive side gauge. No need for a grounding block but you certainly use on if you want too.
4g speaker wires??? No. 12g is by far big enough for that amp.
The grounds for the battery and alt/engine are so short that you can probably get away with 2 or 4 gauge. Especially if you are running a factory alt. But my own personal OCD wouldn't let me use 1/0 for power and a different gauge for negative.
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Have you tried without the bass knob connected at all?
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On 11/24/2021 at 10:30 PM, Big Tex db said:
Everything is flat after tuning except 80hz LPF on HU. Bass knob is set to max when setting gain on amp.
I can hear the sub burping, or sputtering. It makes a repeated thud/pounding noise. As if it's bottoming out or being stopped repeatedly. I assume this is clipping/distortion from too much gain.
when do you hear this? Does it change with volume?
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1 hour ago, Bakerman said:
Man, decades? Well, nearly a decade since I posted anything of valuable content. Lol. 2012 I believe. But I'm back for now.
lol it was a rough estimate
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These days my motorcycle has the audio upgrades. Haven’t had anything in my truck since sometime in 2017z
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2 hours ago, Bakerman said:
Good to see N8, Skippy, and LT Smoke still creepin. The rest of you, i don't remember yall.
talk about still creepin. how many decades has it been since you posted? 😂
On 11/29/2020 at 7:07 AM, LT.Smoke said:I don't always post but I'm here quite a bit but there was a brief stint that I was away. Life got in the way
Yeah I see you are still working out a lot. I'm working out too, but it's only my eating muscles these days.
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6 hours ago, LT.Smoke said:
I'm here as well
If once every 3 months counts as “here” then yeah, you’re here lol!
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I just keep quiet these days. Mostly.
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damn, that is nice. i bet it was a pretty penny.
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I'm guessing they play it WAY up for TV. Actually, there is no way they don't, I bet hes a blast to be around off camera. Still enjoy the show though!
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That dudes TV personality is annoying but I like the show anyways and the cars they build!
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I don't know man. We are now officially way beyond what I understand! lol
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I am super unfamiliar with that amp, if I were to guess though it would be something on the input side of the adjustments. That being said I have looked at the manual for about 5 minutes total. Speaking with Audiocontrol could help for sure.
Is 52 the max with the gain all the way down?
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I just went and read some of the instructions for your LOC. Turns out it isn’t a LOC at all really. Your headunit doesn’t have an output at all really. All it does is send a message to the amp and tells it what to do. That’s where the PAC AmpPRO intercepts the message and turn it into audio. There is no conversion from high to low level. Still doesn’t explain why you didn’t get a signal but very much explains why you can turn the head unit up to max with no distortion.
And then your amp...lots of settings in side that thing.
Start playing around in the amp’s settings (with no speakers hooked up) until you get a signal on the DD-1 to see what is going on. You have so many controls on the amp I’m guess one of those is the issue. It doesn’t appear the the PAC device has any output adjustments except to shut off the factory EQ.
Deaf Bonce 180.4 crossover settings
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
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Looks like the lp side of the switch says lp-bp. I would assume that to mean that is the bandpass side you want.