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jeyrapboy

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Posts posted by jeyrapboy

  1. Heres the break down. Before I would even think about running 1 ohm for daily even if I was only doing 1000 Watts, I would have the big 3 done at least with 1/0 with a nice starting battery, grounded to the strut ground up front, and in turn grounded to your rear battery. Power to power, and make sure you have at least a 600V agm battery in rear and a meter to survey your voltage. I was trying to help, so stop thinking you know more and rephrase your post to a question. Answering the questions I asked in the last post would have helped you more. But since you want to be a know-it-all, have fun with your set-up.

    Im not saying your wrong im going off what I have experienced first hand, You ask just about anyone with some common sense in the car audio field where to ground and 99% of the time the response will be "if possible straight to frame cleaned to bare metal" That my friend is how i have done it sense my jeep about burned to the ground from a bad ground,

    Big 3 is done, I had (up until about 1 hour ago) a voltage meter hooked up to my amp to measure the voltage. Its funny because even though you would have ALL that done i only had a stock alt, Group 34 batt and the big 3 done and really didn't have any voltage drop once i fixed my ground. No im not trying to be a know it all, Im sharing with YOU knowledge that i know, stuff that i have known sense i started putting systems in. Correct me if i am wrong, until then i will keep on keepin on.

    Also i did answer your questions minus one because i didnt see that one, the specs on the amp @1 ohm is 1500, Clamped it might do 1k

  2. Dont ground to the frame? Your aware that the battery i would be buying to stick in the back has to be grounded to the frame at some point correct? Be it grounded to the frame in the back, or grounded to the front battery which in turn is still grounded to the frame....

    Not trying to sound like a dick buy just sayin...

    Also i got the amplifier from techforce

  3. Just got home from work, Pulled out the DMM and Started getting some readings, I got 12.7 at the batt and 12.5 at the amp

    Unhooked the sub and it still goes into protect as soon as the key turns over

    Going to try the RCA suggestion because now that i think about it someone that i know had the same issue, Thanks for bringing that up man

  4. Yea it went into protect, I turned off the truck when I got home. Left for the store, it played another couple minutes and now it just goes into protect as soon as the ignition comes on.

    I pulled the speaker wire thinking it might have been a impedance issue, Still no luck.

  5. OK so I just got my system in my s10 Friday night. Monday on the way home from work I had my system about half my normal listening volume. All of sudden it was quite, figured it was a fuse. I get home checked my 300 under the Hood and the 3 45s at the amp and they all look good.

    Ground is to straight frame and clean as a whistle

    Pulled the amp cover thinking it was something inside and I find nothing looking abnormal

    IMG_20120417_194740.jpg

    IMG_20120417_194724.jpg

    IMG_20120417_194716.jpg

    IMG_20120417_194657.jpg

    Any ideas on what it could be let me know

    Amp is a Re xt4000D

  6. If your going to the front end i think you are, google " chevy 4hi mod" And get 2 sets of HIDs

    Im going from the stock 97 s10 sealed beam front end

    http://www.google.co...iw=1920&bih=955

    To this

    http://www.google.co...iw=1920&bih=955

    i have already sunk $200 in parts for the conversion so Low beam HID's will work for now. drinks.gif

    EDIT: Neither truck is mine just images i googled for real quick

  7. my 00 gmc jimmy it has the same thing, i disabled them

    theres two ways(that worked for me)....push the ebrake just enough to set the dash light off(then take the bulb out) or on the right dash speaker cover, there is the sensor that turns them on, unplug that

    yea someone had mentioned that

    Luckly pulling the number 15 fuse on my 97 s10 killed them, but fyi if you got fogs it kills those to for future reference

    yeah mine has stock fog lights but when i replaced my headlight assembly's i went with out them, the healight with the built in foglight was alot more expensive

    I was going to do those but for that front end I have to change core supports. Them look sick with HID retros

  8. my 00 gmc jimmy it has the same thing, i disabled them

    theres two ways(that worked for me)....push the ebrake just enough to set the dash light off(then take the bulb out) or on the right dash speaker cover, there is the sensor that turns them on, unplug that

    yea someone had mentioned that

    Luckly pulling the number 15 fuse on my 97 s10 killed them, but fyi if you got fogs it kills those to for future reference

  9. Does it sound any different now that the subs have had some play time? Looks like it moves a lot of air. Need to come chill with you fools when im off.

    it sounds decent. there are a lot of noises in his cab that need to be taken care of

    weld in some steel sheets... I mean just slap some alpha damp on it lol.gif

    Ever figure out what that one noise from behind that box was? Sounded like the trim smackin the metal behind it

  10. Ok just thought it was cool, Im subbed to this channel called ericthecarguy. He is a mechanic that just makes helpful videos about auto repair and what not. Fridays he does this show where he takes "user submitted videos" that they find interesting and asks him to share. Well low and behold one of steves videos is in the mix. Just thought it was kind cool.

    There is a bunch more videos in the mix but his video is at 6:43

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