bumpinTL364

Thanks for that reply Joe, great info as always With all that about the calculators being said, can you recommend one that's not too expensive? Given that I'll only use it a couple times a year, I don't want to pay an outrageous price, but I do want to do this correctly in the most professional/engineering way possible. Just a comment about my port design choice: I was under the impression that maintaining port area was the main concern, so the area of each smaller section sums to be the same as the large section. Now that I've had a couple courses in internet subwoofer things, as well as fluid dynamics, I can see the difference in velocity might also cause an issue. Lastly, I did some more digging and found a way to completely flatten the factory EQ in my vehicle, through developer menus in the headunit. Sub 35hz bass has definitely improved, so I think my LC2i Pro was just being under-utilized. I presume I'll need to retune amp settings once I dial in the LC2i or find a way to keep the HU DSP flattened.

Thanks for that work Joe, somehow didn't see it when I checked the other day. Never thought about a curved aeroport, I'm assuming that's acheived with PVC pipe? I did do my due diligence before starting the initial build last year, but clearly, I didn't know what I didn't know. I confirmed on honda forums that the front speaker wires I tapped receive full signal, but I could probably give tuning the LC2i a shot as well (I got the fancy one that you can tune a point where the lc2i is supposed to fill in the subbass where the factory signal tends to roll off at higher volume levels). I did try phase inverting the subs, sounded no different to me. I think I can conclude I'm either not getting the full range signal, I'm tuned too high due to small box volume, or I'm getting port noise that causes cancellation at low freqs. I'm playing around with some designs similar to the following thread at the moment. Any chance you can validate my design process since I'm at it? 1. Calculate max in-car volume available, go smaller if necessary for subwoofer mfg recommendation 2. use box volume and wattage to calculate port area required with triticum's port calculator 3. validate tuning with torres box calc, adjusting these three main parameters as necessary The main issue I'm running into is not being able to fit the required port area in the box, besides the way you showed above

I figured out the airspeed using a couple online calcs, including this one: http://www.mh-audio.nl/Calculators/portairspeed.html And you're right, rear speakers do get high passed so I wired to the front, no change in performance though. also having a problem getting stuck in a design loop. A 6" aeroport would be difficult to fit in the box without making it larger, and still needs to be side mounted because 33hz requires 26.5" of port. I'm using triticums port area calculator and the torres box calc together here.

I think I'm answering my own question here, but after doing a bit more playing around with Triticum's port area calculator and some port velocity calculator, i found my port area is only one in^2 lower than minimum, but my port velocity is near 80m/s! Would that cause the extreme loss of output at lower frequencies?

Thanks for the reply and insight Joe, I CANT BELIEVE I didnt think of that back then! I do know that the subs are wired in phase, as they werent when I originally wired them up. Guess I'll go the aeroport route next time if I can get the length short enough to fit the box. To answer some of the other things I forgot: Vehicle: 2021 honda civic hatchback Electrical/HU: 4awg from battery to amp, 10awg from amp to subs. Factory HU, wired rear speakers to lc2i. Amp: hifonics brutus 1200.1D (I know its old junk but I works and I tune it) Tuning method: cheap o-scope. Used Oscope to find max HU volume without clipping, then used that HU value to tune amplifier to target voltage using 40hz test tone. I cant exactly remember how I tuned the filters, but I used a 100hz tone and 40hz tone and played with filter dials until a specific voltage was reached.

Hi everyone, been on the forum for a long time but only recently got back into things. I'm a mechanical engineering student/intern at the moment and have had a passion in audio for nearly a decade now. I took it upon myself to design an enclosure for a pair of Demon 10"s for my civic hatch. I'm pretty happy with the punchiness, but the lower end is lacking pretty significantly and sounds "blown out" or "not really there" instead of "deep". I'm hoping to get some insight on where I went wrong with my design. As you can see, this is a non-traditional enclosure where the port effectively shares 4 walls with the enclosure on the outer sides. The design was done this way to maintain a specific outer dimension that fits like a glove in my hatch. Another issue I did come across was the subs not being particularly well suited to being in a ported enclosure in the first place, as the result of dividing the Fs/Qes yielded a value near 43.5. Any insight would be greatly appreciated, as I'm thinking of changing the enclosure to get better performance: I have a feeling I'm not getting as much out of these Demons as I could be. Also, I designed this about a year ago, so I'm not sure what I did/used, but I can't seem to find a solid answer for the desired port area or volume for these subs...

dat rolls ugly... This has to be a hoax, not enough time to do this. It would mean 7.7 calls a min, plus a email every 5 min, plus 4 text messages every min, 31 singing messages a day, plus 92 letters a day. Sorry even if she was a crack addict up 24/7, she would not have enough time or brains to accomplish all this in a week. hahaha the logic you find on this board is sometimes uncanny, almost to a fault!

looks exactly like my schedule. Going into sophomore year engineering?

water and monster….on that finals grind

steve meade is god

Steve, dope build as always. I'm pretty surprised Craftsman hasn't sponsored you by now and put you in a commercial as "the ultimate craftsman" or something lol. Also, purely out of my curiosity, why did you go with a 6th and then 4th order rather than just a ported box? I know you have a reason, but knowing as little as I do about how being in open air changes things, I would have thought a ported box would be best in order to have maximum air displacement through the larger area of the woofer cone. Anyone else please feel free to chime in, just trying to admire some beautiful work and learn a thing or two keep it up steve!

hey look, snow's cover is finally blown!

"and it….sends waves…..of sound….through your seat….yeah" hahah steve. Dope build so far though, your installs are cleaner than the inside of a lysol factory! I can't wait till you get on that box! Keep it up man!

looks just like shrooms!