bassl0va
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Posts posted by bassl0va
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I'm still going to do it, it will be this weekend when my cousin is down, if it is good enough I might try a dude hair trick with it. Lol
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Dayton and Malstorm (or Malstrom, whatever) are popular over at hometheatershack.com. Those dudes can probably help out better for home audio related stuff.
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I guess I'm up for it.
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if you do 2 ohms your amp will require 50% more power if i recall right
Indeed it requires 50% more power.
lol, and? What does that matter?
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They're all subwoofers, I wouldn't run a single one of them for midbass.
Something like the 8" drivers from DLS, yes.
Or 4 old school DD w6.5s
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I don't know how much it is, but if you can afford it, might as well get it. Just for that little bit of extra beefyness.
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It could be tricky to get the extra volume in the bed to not be too restricted at the cut through point.
This. I'd not recommend doing a box like that...just too risky depending on how small the cut-through is going to be compared to the normal size of the box.
Yeah I agree with both of you it is risky. The cut through is going to have to be huge to compensate for the short height of the bed. I would be using every inch I can squeeze out of it leaving enough room to glass and attach to the body...
Unless I can spec out a good 4th order BP in {16" X 39" X 60"} which will be tight with the 15.5 dia of the sub. I may be able to shave a bit off by removing the gasket though...and notch out a section in the top and bottom of the box.
I would think that you're probably best off with a bp, the angle probably wouldn't matter really, it should be fine :-)
How big is the hole you are going to cut be? I have a nice idea for how to do the box.
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Car = S10 ext cab (1998)
Box:
I'm thinking either large ported or bandpass if possible. One problem with bandpass (4th order) in this truck is the bed dimensions...only allows for 16" total box height so the subs would have to be angled...not sure if I wanna do that.
If I go ported (leaning towards this) I plan on using the ext cab area to mount the subz...cut-through inside the box and additional box volume in the bed (yeah the cut-through will need special attention to be air tight). I wanna let the beasts breath! ported in the cab from the top of the box followed by 2 45degree angles into the bed. Something like this...
Hmm, yes, this idea could work and look very nice if thought through well. It could be tricky to get the extra volume in the bed to not be too restricted at the cut through point.
And might I say those 15"s look so beefy compared to the pics of my 18"s, I like the foam pads to stop tinsel slap too
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Will Post an image tomorrow. I'll need to unbox them. I understand the request with my "2 Post" count
As for the Amp. I have heard mixed opinions about it. It's what I have so I'm going to run with it for now.
Ok cool, they are beasts! Haha.
They aren't very photogenic though eh, they see to look smaller in pics.
Yeah, after having so many people come on here with a brand new account and ask for advice on their big build when they don't actually have any of the equipment you have to double check eh.
Ok, if you already have it then I guess it's fine, but consider swapping out for different ones.
So what kinda box were you thinking of, what car?
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Congrats on the great sub! They are awesome aren't they?
Post a pic with your username written on a bit of paper in the pic so I know you actually have one and aren't just dreamin' on here.
I have 2 MT 18"s, and we just used the T&S parameters of the old BTL (non neo-mag one).
If you actually have that amp, get rid of it, if you don't have it then good, don't get it. New Soundstream is shit in general, but those amps are even worse.
Not to be an asshole but I'll help more if you prove you actually have one
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sounds about right. i just find if funny that there is no mid-bass. so im trying to talk my mom into getting a pro-box or a bazooka tube since she doesn't want hard bass she just wants some bass
yeah, she'd probably be better off with a component set that has some nice kick. That way there wouldn't be any space taken up by a sub and the companies that make those shitty things wouldn't be supported.
It would also be a better fix because it solves the problem rather than just putting a bandaid on it
plus the speakers would sound better in general. -
What about the headunit? Is it factory? Could have a built in high pass.
I've also found from experience speakers other than subs sound alot better when given the correct power or slightly under power when they are cheaper. My opinoin. I'm using Pioneer 4x6s and 6.5s from wal-mart and I have them on a pioneer amp and I mess with the gain alot.
I also know where it clips because I've set it with an o-scope.
Did they put bass blockers inline with the positive on the speaker? I know best buy does that to cover their ass so you won't blow your speakers by turning the damn bass all the way up and trying to play 32hz through your sony explaud [someone will know] 6x9's that take 200watts.
Sorry if that's kind of blah blah blah like and confusing, but that's exactly what came to mind.
please call it either a high pass filter or subsonic filter
It's xplod
Sorry, I just can't stand it when people use the phrase bass blocker or spell sony xplod wrong. lol. Just 2 pointless pet peeves, sorry
nah its not confusing and yes factory head unit. its got no amps. and im pretty sure the factory unit wouldnt overpower the speakers their rated for 140 watts i think
140 watts max
Probably more like 30-50 watts RMS
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Hmm, awkward. Ever thought of maybe doing 4 12"s instead?
Nope! Im sitting right beside a stack of 4 DC XL 15's so 12's are out of the question lol
I thought you said you had 2. My bad. 8 12"s? There would be more motor force (provided they were XLs) and more cone area, plus it would probably fit in, probably.
Dude I just dropped close to 3K on my subs and amp! I'm not gonna use 12's in my build, I'm too far in to change it now lol
Should have thought about that before buying them then shouldn't you!
Or did you change cars?
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Do one 12" Fi BTL, 12" AA mayhem, or 12" DC XL on a 3k rms amp sealed forward. 2-2.2 cubes net with 40^ inches of port. Budget needs to be $1,500-2,500. Your stock alt will handle 3k with a XS3400 up front and XS3400 in rear with all 0g wiring and 0g big three.
I've run a 3k Atomic on all stock (with 0g big 3 etc. of course) for a year with no issues, just had to run the engine when bumping, I'm sure he'd get away with one of those batts and his stock one just fine
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Tempting, 4 12"s in the trunk sounds a little tight on space, but I don't know the car so I couldn't say for sure.
One thing is for sure though, you definitely will not need metal angle braces if the box is built right. My wall rolls with a 2" thick baffle and absolutely no bracing, no baffle flex going on there.bracing just interrupts airflow, maybe use threaded rod instead of 1x1" square dowel.
how does bracing interrupt airflow?
and i'm not sure i know what threaded rod is
Double post fail mate
It gets in the way of internal air movement, air moves in the box too, not just the port. Pretty much the smaller your bracing device is the better, or have none at all. If the box is built well it isn't really needed unless you have something truly crazy like Hank's 48 SA10"s, that snapped one of the metal braces, but then think about the force of 24 10"s moving back and forth many times a second.
It's a metal bar with a screw thread the full length of it.
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Hmm, awkward. Ever thought of maybe doing 4 12"s instead?
Nope! Im sitting right beside a stack of 4 DC XL 15's so 12's are out of the question lol
I thought you said you had 2. My bad. 8 12"s? There would be more motor force (provided they were XLs) and more cone area, plus it would probably fit in, probably.
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What's height of bed.which size subs you using.
The bed measures 16Hx39Wx69L I have 4 DC XL 15's. I've got everybody under the sun trying to figure out how to make it work, so far nobody can figure out a 4th order for it. Obviously the subs will have to be angled inside the enclosure to make them fit. I think that is whats scaring everyone off lol.
What's the mounting depth?
You could do a wicked tapped horn in there maybe, thet would be somewhat epic.
Otherwise yes, just angle them, even though it may affect loading quite a bit. Still should be fine.
The mounting depth is 8.25 on the subs. The truck is a 2000 sonoma ext cab. With the cover on the bed of the truck the abosolute max height is 16 inches. That pretty much touches the bottom of the hard cover to the top of the box if it is 16 inches.
Hmm, awkward. Ever thought of maybe doing 4 12"s instead?
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have him get a powered 8 or 10 inch bazooka tube I know ppl with those in the trucks and they sound good for 100 bucks
Um what? How could one of them sound good
I think he'd be better off with the visonik ones shown further up than one of those hideous bass tubes. Hana
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best bet would be to go used with that kinda budget
Yes, although I still don't think you'd be able to get anything too great with such a low budget.
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What's height of bed.which size subs you using.
The bed measures 16Hx39Wx69L I have 4 DC XL 15's. I've got everybody under the sun trying to figure out how to make it work, so far nobody can figure out a 4th order for it. Obviously the subs will have to be angled inside the enclosure to make them fit. I think that is whats scaring everyone off lol.
What's the mounting depth?
You could do a wicked tapped horn in there maybe, thet would be somewhat epic.
Otherwise yes, just angle them, even though it may affect loading quite a bit. Still should be fine.
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Those are Rainbows right? I hear that they are awesome speakers, maybe could be good for the OP depending on the price?
Yep,
My particular set costed around 350 dollars, but they have sets in the upper 190's and the lower 200's.
Also Hybrid Audio Imagine Comps are around 200 dollars
hmm, maybe the OP should look into them then. They do seem to receive a lot of praise.
Just a quick off topic question, when it's raining are you real quick with getting in or out of the car? Haha. They look like polyproperlyene cones so it probably would be kinda fine, I have 2 paper coned DD w6.5s in the same place on each door, luckily I haven't run into such a situation.
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a new car
jk jk Sound deadenerI really like your idea of a new car! Haha if only I had the money
By the way it sounds like your sub is clipping, you might want to back your amp off a little bit and see if it makes a difference
You can tell on a video, it's probably just the camera mic. distorting.
To the OP, holy bejebus that is bad, try lots and lots of deadener, if that doesn't work, change your system so that the sub is sealed off into the cabin, or in a bandpass ported through the rear deck.
I think though that the main question that should be asked is why do you drive around blasting it?
But let's not start that argument.
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Budget???
Goals.....SQ,Loud,etc......??
my right door and 6x9 are going to that i recently bought this car and he had the stock stereo with it panned to just the drivers door when i got to looking i changed it and got pissed that the car was that way now im searching and dont know which company to go with
I have the same kind of car as you, but I put 6.5's in and cut the door panel
Those are Rainbows right? I hear that they are awesome speakers, maybe could be good for the OP depending on the price?
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Tempting, 4 12"s in the trunk sounds a little tight on space, but I don't know the car so I couldn't say for sure.
One thing is for sure though, you definitely will not need metal angle braces if the box is built right. My wall rolls with a 2" thick baffle and absolutely no bracing, no baffle flex going on there.bracing just interrupts airflow, maybe use threaded rod instead of 1x1" square dowel.
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Sorry, I just can't stand it when people use the phrase bass blocker or spell sony xplod wrong. lol. 
jk jk Sound deadener
soundstorm 12 is it a good buy
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2500 watts max? lol. Sounds just as extravagant as the Soundstream SPLX rating
Unless you can flog them off for a profit then save the money