UnderLoK

This time around I couldn't say no to a $225 lease on a Silverado w/ a v6 lol I just sold off my TB this past summer, the thing sat more than it played so I figured it was time to take a break. I'll just wait for the mid-life crisis to hit before I do something else... haha

Looks badass man nice work!

Not for 4 SA-18s I don't, they are 600 wrms each woofers. lol I know man, I'm just about to dump them and figured I would offer them up one last time

You need 4...

I might have to snag a couple 5ks as my 4500s barely fit with like .25" clearance width wise... lol On a side note, I really wish you guys would swap out the .5" coarse thread allens on the sides into the heat sink with some beefier 1" fine thread screws. The current ones seem to back out way too easy.

It's great seeing Jeff do well, well, when he actually posts pictures... Congrats man!

Waaaaay to blow it Ninja... Congrats Rob!

Your truck makes the room look small or like it's some kind of trick with a model and a Matchbox Car... lol

This is going to be bad ass IMHO which ever one can demo a low to mid 50 for more than 10, 15, 20 minutes at a time wins (if there is such a thing). That's the point of a demo vehicle anyways right? Play time...

I missed the part where you mentioned you removed the factory ground? Mine has all sorts of crap running to that ground so that might have something to do with it as well. Basically you want everything that grounds to go through that pickup (amp ground and factory ground). If I remember correctly it constantly samples load and adjusts accordingly, but it should only be looking every 30-60 seconds not every second. That makes me think it might have something to do with that factory ground. This is all info I read about the charging system and second hand knowledge from some alt manufacturers and techs I've talked to over the past couple years, I have too many grounds so I was never able to try it myself.

You want your amp's ground to go through that pickup if you were to "do it right". Outside of that there isn't anything else you can do unless your vehicle is one with an override. Most of the SUVs and trucks (not mine) will leave economy mode and go into charging mode if you manually turn on the lights or on models with a tow button if you hit the tow button. Those are the only two tricks I know of. With these vehicles you really only have a few options. Get AD based alts (which is what the HO alt companies should be suggesting) and deal with the charge warning, go with externally regulated and deal with a charge warning, or get an MLA. For the record I bought an MLA last year, just never got around to putting it in, should have it in next weekend though finally. If I were you and if you don't already have an HO, get an AD based alt instead and just deal with the charge warning on the dash (tell the alt manufacturer what you're doing and they will give you instructions on how to wire it up). In reference to your voltage... It's walking right? By that I mean one minute (it shouldn't be constantly moving every second) it's sitting at 13.2, the next it's at 14.1, then 13.6. then 12.8, and so on? If it's going from 14.2 to 13.3 when you turn it up then it's drop, not the PCM... The alt should still provide amps no matter what the voltage is. I have next to zero drop even when in economy mode (12.8-13.2).

More than likely because they draw from their front battery?

You fuse to prevent a fire, not to save your amps. Long story short, unless your vehicle is worth less than the cost of a 300a ANL ($0.90) or you don't have the room, fuse it.

It's the right coil running to the left coil then both to the amp.

Might have found some subs so no longer looking.