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Everything posted by SnowDrifter
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I would like to put either 2 15s(preferred) or 2 12s in the back of a car... Criteria is basically: Used, stick shift, rwd, seats 4+, and has trunk space. Turbo would be great, but is fine either way. I know that loud music =/= 0-60 performance. But being able to step on the gas and have a car start flying puts just as big of a smile on my face as does rear view mirror breaking amounts of bass. Why not have the best of both worlds? Any suggestions?
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Or heck... What's a good small-midsize pickup that seats at least 4? If a rwd car isn't possible, how about a pickup with a blowthrough and a locking bed cover? At this point, I am just looking for something that is rwd / 4x4, manual, and something with a lockable trunk that no one can see in to take my subs to be.
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What's a good download / upload site?
SnowDrifter posted a topic in Tunez - All things music related
I want to upload one of the songs that I slowed... I but I don't know what a good website to use is =( Suggestions? -
As much as I would like to do that, it needs to seat 4, while having trunk space as I carpool to school allot. I am looking for a car that can do this and that I can bump in. As for rear seats, I was looking for a trunk pass-through, like the one seen below(it can be smaller). Does the grand am have something like that? I plan on porting it into the cabin via a square port.
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It HAS to be a car, like a sedan or a coupe. And needs to have a separate trunk, not like a small hatchback like the subaru outbacks are. I don't want anybody seeing my subs and wanting to jack them. I can lock a trunk, and fold up the rear seat so it basically looks stock. As for power,I plan on running about 2kw to the subs, and 1kw to the mids and highs. This way, I should get minimal voltage drop at idle, and none at higher rpms, and it still leaves some extra power for anything else I should want to put on the car like HIDs and such. Besides, any level of headlight dimming just tweaks my OCD side so no end, so I would rater have too many alts than too little. Then that way I can keep the most trunk space by having either fewer or smaller batteries.
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I am looking for a car with GOBS of trunk space (like a ford Taurus or more) It also has to have a fold down center console, and preferably with a pre existing hole into the trunk I plan on make a box with a square port going through the hole, into the cab Tuning will be at 31hz, and will most likely hold 2 12s. It is also a first car, so the cheaper the better. And the car being manual is highest priority. A car that can handle a dual alternator bracket would be best since I can wire 2 electrical systems into the car so the lights won't dim. I was just going to hook up 2 mechman alts: One dedicated to the sub batteries, and one for the oem electrical along with the mids and highs. Price range would preferably by below 4k, but I can go a bit over if there is good reason. Beyond that, it's a bit high for a first car. And rwd / awd would be greatly preferred over front wheel drive. (Mods, if this is the wrong forum, feel free. It is general audio, and the car IS based around speakers, so I figured it can go here)
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So just basically replace the existing wires with bigger ones and make sure the connections are secure? What is the "chassis to engine" all about? I understand the first 2. I scraped the paint away with a screw driver and a knife. So it's more than just sanded, it should be raw (is this better or worse? They just simply put 2 short screws into the body of the car (beneath the seats, metal was the same color as the silver on the outside of the car, I assume this is the body and not the frame) I have the remote, RCA, and power wires ran down the drivers side panel...so this seems likely. There is a small hole on the passenger side but I have no idea how to get a wire from the batter into it. Is there somewhere I can look up this kind of thing for my vehicle? If I disconnect the RCA cables from the amp, and it still flexes when I hit the brakes, would that eliminate the possibility of it being the head unit? For the chassis to engine, it is just that. Sand (not scrape, scraping has the possibility of not removing a fine film of anything that sanding does) a part of the frame, and just undo a bolt from the engine. Attach the wire, reinstall the bolts and you are good to go. The chassis to engine ground just acts as a ground to the alternator. As for the last one, I would say that it does eliminate the head unit.
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My first slowed & bass boosted song
SnowDrifter replied to SnowDrifter's topic in Tunez - All things music related
Damn... I'll do better on my next one -
My first slowed & bass boosted song
SnowDrifter replied to SnowDrifter's topic in Tunez - All things music related
Great! Let me know how it goes =) -
I slowed it, bass boosted it, then went through the song and individually boosted the lowest notes. Let me know what 'ya think!
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How to power a crown MA-9000i?
SnowDrifter replied to SnowDrifter's topic in Pro Audio / Home Audio / Home Theatre
Does anyone know the type of plug it takes? -
How to power a crown MA-9000i?
SnowDrifter replied to SnowDrifter's topic in Pro Audio / Home Audio / Home Theatre
Sorry! But The amp is for pro audio, but I wasn't going to use it for that, rather home audio, nor was it for it's intended use for pro audio. I guessed that general audio would have been safe, but I guess I was wrong. I also thought that I would get more responses on it in general audio since that has more people browsing it. Won't happen again -
As the title suggests... I was considering getting one, but I looked at the power draw at 8 ohms/channel. 13.6amps at 1/3d power??!! I can't ever see this amp reaching full power without blowing the breakers. How are they powered at 120v? Multiple outlets?