Bigsix

So yesterday I picked up a little scorpion digi volt meter to mount up in the jeep....it only has 2 wires coming off of it, red and black. The package says it automatically shuts itself off..... First question= I dont understand how it will automatically turn itself on and off if I wire itdirectly to a battery....will it automatically shut off?... And second, where should I wire it in? battery up front, the rear kinetik?

No shit.... I ordered their cloaking kit for my Cherokee...waitin on the mailman

Awesome......thanks for the link bro

huh? you must be thinking of someone else...i havent said anything about voltage drop or anything anywhere.....

its a 2000 cherokee....finally got some stuff done on it this week...im gonna throw some pics up in a small build log tomorrow...

There is a slight increase in felt recoil, anytime you switch over to a shorter barreled handgun, although if you have shot a full size 1911 in .45acp and were ok with the recoil, then you will not have any problems with the commander or officer sized 1911's as well. The 3 inch barrel 1911s tend to eat up recoil springs a bit faster than the full sizes from my personal experience, although this is not an issue if you are only an occaisional shooter. And even if you wear out a spring, replacements from wolf are cheap and allow you the opportunity to play with the "weight" of the spring and tailor it to your needs. Often times a heavier spring can lighten the felt recoil while shooting, the only real downside being that there will be a slighty higher effort required to rack the slide, again, no biggie to me. And as for you wanting to upgrade to all wilson bullet proof parts, thats cool, if you want to dress it up a touch and spend money....I'd suggest you buy that gun, and shoot the fuck out of it before you go throwing new parts on it. The kimber parts are well made and will provide you with years upon years of service... that being said, one of my 1911s has nearly every wilson piece on it, they will require light hand fitting to function properly, and again, will give you years of trouble free service. More often than not, aftermarket pieces such as the thumb safety, the trigger, the slide stop, will require hand fitting to work properly, if you arent good with your hands and precise things, it is best left to a gunsmith, unless of course you dont mind botching a 45 dollar thumb safety a couple times before you get it right. Usually the material needing removed is in the hundreths to thousandths range, minuscule, so if you wanna fit them yourself, go slow and look up the how tos on you tube. there are also several books available readily to educate yourself on fitting and building custom 1911s. If you have any questions or concerns feel free to shoot me a message and Ill gladly do what I can to help you out.

Those ones were much older, the real boxy ones...theres a dude around here with one that kinda hangs with my t/a until about 85-90mph..hes got some shit done to it, but nonetheless impressive for a minivan... This one above is definately an SRT swap. A buddy of mine is doing an SRT4 swap into a first gen neon, should be a hell of a lil sleeper when its all said and done..

Im diggin it....what was that last track that got played?

Why dont you look up Elliot Portworks, or Advanced induction, or Texas Speed and Performance...(I like Elliot Portworks, Llyod is a great dude to talk to and is very willing to share his knowledge and opinions if you take the time to give him a call) and check out the heads and cam packages available for your motor. The 5.3 is an LSx series motor....there is a shit ton of real go fast parts readily available for them... you could do a stroker kit (383 c.i.) add heads and a cam and all the supporting mods and have a 500+hp truck for alot less than just that duramax engine will cost. If you are that set on a diesel truck, your best bet is to trade in the one u have and get a diesel truck. Take it for what you will, but go fast cars are my true love, just gettin into all this audio stuff..

+1 million on NSS, although could be something simple in the console as well, like a lil stretched or misadj. cable for the shifer...but yup, garauntee something dealing with NSS.

Let me start with this: I didnt read the entire thread just skimmed it.... now where to begin... OP, if u wanna go fast, Jeep is wrong choice. Also the 4.0l six is 180hp max depending on year. With your intake and exhaust, you added perhaps 10 or 15 at most.If you really want to add 50hp and your budget is 500 bux, you only have 1 option: spray it. Nitrous Oxide. but I will tell you this, to do a nitrous kit the right way, you are gonna drop over 500. you'll need a window switch, and the bottle filled and a cpl other odds and ends that aren't going to be in the kit. There are stroker kits available to make the inline 4.0 a 4.6l, although with those kits, the big boy gains are more in the torque department. Which brings me to my next point, the design of this motor, its bore size and stroke length,among other things, and being an inline 6, all make this motor a torque motor, not a hp motor, it isnt meant to rev high and haul ass, it is meant to chugg along and do work. You are trying to make the motor do something it doesnt like, and it never will. And like I said before, if youre trying to roll around at 95, wrong choice. Honestly, youre a dumbass. Cherokee has marginal brakes in stock form, the aerodynamics of my mother in laws ass, and a soild front axle, all of which are bad for something you want to go fast in. Gamble with your life is fine, but on open roads where people like me are driving with my kids.....dumb shit like thatll get your teeth missing quick. If you have any other questions about your motor, feel free to ask, I know them like the back of my hand. If you really wanna go fast you need a toy.. hence why I got my trans am...meant to do the task at hand, and actually worthwhile to do all the modifications I have done to make it what it is...and My Cherokee is for going slow, gettin dirty and gettin loud.

if youre looking into a used block to begin a build, I would not buy a block unless I could see it myself.... and even then it is a bit of a gamble. There can be damage right in front of your face that u cannot see. If you are doing a high performance build, your best bet is going to be to pick the best possible looking block you can find, tear it down completely, 100 percent if it isnt already, and contact a local performance shop and have the block magnaflux'd which will reveal any damage u might not be able to see... do the same for the head as well, unless u are using a known good head or buying it from a reputable shop.

Thanks Knowledge, when the opportunity presented itself I jumped on it. I'll have a lil build log going if ya'll wanna check it out.

Awesome. just what I needed to hear. Buildly time. Thanks man...

This afternoon I scored a Kinetic hc2400 for an unbeatable price... free, just swapped some labor for it. Anyways my question is: what orientation can I mount it. does it have to sit on the "bottom" with terminals pointing up, or can i stand it on its end, or lay it on its side? I am trying to stuff an xcon 18 into my Cherokee and retain the use of my rear seats and I am quickly running out of room....I have a spot or two it can go, if I can lay it down or stand it up... Is it safe to do?

First off, poor muffler choice for no drone and quiet. Second, in a pick up truck, with the exhaust dumped that far under the bed, you will probably have a little drone to deal with regardless. I dont understand how you couldn't have room for your exhaust, regardless of how low you plan on making the truck.... run the exhaust in the frame rails.....run it up thru the sheetmeatl in to the bed and back out...theres a few options, just need to get creative with the tubing bender and welder. Ive always had good luck with dynomax mufflers as far as drone goes. I am currently running a moroso spiral flo race bullet, no drone, but then again its longtube headers into a 4 inch y pipe, into the muffler, dumped at the rear axle...definately doesnt drone, but its loud as all get out.

I like that set up a lot Fish, that's a way better view than I got in the vid when you were at Steves shop. I dig the 6.5s (?) down low, good use of otherwise wasted space. Man, if you ever come to Ohio, me and my son got a couple sweet little large mouth holes we could let you in on, lol. Did a lil more reading, general consensus sounds like those Daytons arent terribly picky about the size of their enclosures, so thats more that tells me you'll be fine. Post up a vid once you drop in double the power, cause your shit was bumpin pretty darn good in the vid I saw.

Personally, I think you'll be just fine. Drop that new power in there, go see steve again and the SMD DD-1, get gains tuned, and rock out. Youll only be overpowering the subs by what, like 20 percent or so....I think itll wang out just fine... Actually I just did some googling, and saw a couple reviews of those subs... one fellow said he was running 1 in 3.75 cubes after displacements, putting over 1k rms to it, and he was super pleased with his results. Again, I say go for it, I think itll work out great.

pretty sure theres a vid on youtube of a dude runnin 2 of these and an audiopipe apsm1300 burping like a 144 something..... nice cheap loud set up...those amps are only 115 shipped online..

+1 for if your seats fold down...subs n port forward and sealed off from the trunk. looks good, gets loud.

I'm gonna be running mine at. .7 daily with box rise i'll probably never actually see that. So you should be fine. Best of luck Thanks guys! I was definately considering giving my dimensions to ram and telling him what id like and see what he comes up with. And thanks vettedude, I was thinking the same thing, if my electrical is up to snuff, and my amp choice is .5ohm stable, I cannot see any issues with running at .5 daily... i was thinking along the sames lines, because of box rise and what not the load wouldnt truly be as low as .5. Thanks again for the input guys.... once I get the rest of my gear purchased and get things going on this rebuild I'll put up a small build log, even though it wont be much to look at compared to most of what goes on around here... Im looking forward to this, should be a big step up from an Atomic Manhattan 15 runnin of a crappy crunch 1100w 2ch....

Thanks Strongman and Shogen.... And Shogen, why do you suggest not running at .5ohm daily? I have a redtop, plan on the big 3 as well, and my power wire runs are more than adequate for my planned power level......and I'm not trying to be a know it all or anything, if there is a good reason not to run at .5, I will modify my plans and when time comes for the new amp, I will adj. my search accordingly.

thanks Marquez, although I was kinda hoping for some suggestions from what people have good luck with, using a similar sub, in the same, or a similar, vehicle. Kinda some real world " I had good results with _____" kinda shit, as opposed to pulling the specs from SSA's sight. Ive kinda worked it out, and think I would like to do a Kerfed port box, sub up, port back.... I just need to start pulling tape and see exactly what kind of space I have and what the final layout will be....

or not.

I just picked up an SSA Xcon 18, d1's, this past weekend in a trade....its already in the Jeep, but man is this box terrible. Particle Board. I dont know what dude was thinking. It has 3, 3.5inch pvc pipe ports that are 8 inches long and externally measure out to somewhere in the neighbor of 7.5 cubes... doesnt fit in the Jeep right, flexes like a gymnast on GHB, and just kinda sounds funny. When we pulled the sub out to re-wire it to 2 ohms the sub was held in with like 6, 3/4 inch fine thread screws and 3 tubes of silicone, thankfully it cleaned up ok. So a box upgrade is in order, I've built one box before and had so so results, this is one Id like to get right. I am just wanting to hear some opinions on tuning, size, style etc. Its going into a 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport, I plan on running my 2 APSM 1300's strapped at 2ohms (~1200 watts ish) until after the holidays when I can afford something a little more powerful (15oo to 1800wrms) and able to run at .5. I dont want a wall, its my daily driver, and I like having a back seat... I wanna get lowww and I listen to a vast variety of tunes.