Dwn4BassAlan

Badass camp wish california would ease up on the liberalness about 3% for the day and get a camp here. But seriously kids and guns couldnt be more dangerous in my opinion, read about a gunshow once where an 11-year old boy fired a full auto mac 11 and the recoil made his arm bend at the elbow and the continuous shooting pushed the gun all the way and he shot himself in the head right in front of his father, too sad for words almost

I don't know much about anything beyond the basic weld, but it sounds like the work you do involves heavy duty steel, do you have to tig-weld it? I have always wanted to learn how to tig weld, I hear you can make really good money because its hard to do.

I literally feel the EXACT same way. I was like if they had kept the old headlights, with the new taillights they would be out of stock with chevelle people would have been clapping them up so quick.

You definitely read my mind, I always wished they would make a chevelle with double headlights and double taillights on the same car.

No dropped the 454 out, it needed major repairing. Gonna be a while before it runs.

No the transmission is fine, and I could never afford to replace this one, its an aluminum M22 from an original SS. I just need to shifter to go back in but for some reason he said it can't be re welded properly??

Alright guys, so yesterday on my way to the beach (if you live in Cali you know the heat wave hasnt let up) to cool down when out of nowhere, I throw my car into reverse, or atleast tried to, and my shifter came off at the weld point from the transmission! Pretty sick! but thats still not the best part, I was stuck in an alley, where a construction truck had to back up from to let the street sweeper through and I had some cop yelling at me to move, not seeming to understand the meaning of my car just broke. So i finally got it onto the side of the road and called AAA and got towed to my mechanic who says he'll get a specialist to come out and weld it. Well turns out it can't be fixed with that same piece and he says I need an aftermarket piece. But he gladly informs me that the welder says that my shifter ALONE was worth $1500??!?!?!!? He said it some really sought after original piece, sound like a heaping, steaming, festering load of BS to me as my mechanic sounded equally as surprised and skeptical. Can ANYONE tell me if that has any sort of plausibility to it at all?? I dont have a picture of the bottom part that came out but heres what it looks like in the car, looks generic to me.

the most basic idea i can think of is that you could spray-paint some tin-foil black, you would have to find some super adhesive stuff, because I doubt tin foil absorbs paint, and put that on the roof with the black side downwards? From what your saying I imagine looks are not an issue, because my idea, as I imagine, would look quite ugly. If your looking for something less ugly, you can buy sheets of vinyl in lots of colors, it could work as headliner if you have leather, or if you have suede/microfiber you might also be able to buy a sheet.

If its a SimpleTech your problem is almost unfixable. If not you can right click computer, properties, then go to device manager, if your local area connection of your USB slots are not working you can try updating, or deactivate it then reactivate it and see if it finds it now. Also check that it is not listed as an Unallocated slot, or it will never read it.

Reallly??? Pull your car on some scales. I think you will be surprized. the problem is that I did.......and i was definitely surprised....at how heavy it was........... Well, if i had a chevelle that weighed in at 5500 pounds, i would sell that thing so fast it would make your head swim. I got a 65 impala, which is a much bigger car with all original steel except for a fiberglass hood that only weighs around 4000 pounds. yea, i was really surprised, its about 1000lbs heavier than it was stock because I had to get this brand new gas tank that was so heavy the shipping was almost $400......... There was so must rust on the bottom I had to weld in a ton of new heavy steel for the undercarriage. And the Muncie 4-spd was really heavy as well as the new engine pieces and the new oil pan to stop the leak, it had to be so heavy to withstand all the heat the other one melted and warped and leaked like crazy when the car was running. And I had to get a bunch of heavy duty brackets to fit all the malibu pieces in it.

Reallly??? Pull your car on some scales. I think you will be surprized. the problem is that I did.......and i was definitely surprised....at how heavy it was...........

haha my paint alone is almost 30lbs. theres 18 coats and the rally stripes

yea thats I figured, I was only going to add about 100lb and at this point its not a huge difference so I thing I might be able to pull some other unnecessary things out to try to lighten up

how much worse on the MPG we talking? i mean i thought 9-10 was bad enough, if i put it in will it drop below 7-8? if you are getting 10mpg then you probably have a huge ass diesel engine or something, so i doubt you will see any difference at all in hp or mpg. For instance my truck that gets 13mpg empty get 11-12 even when pulling 10,000lbs of scrap iron. Lol no diesel, just a 5.7 350 chevy smallblock. But the mileage is so bad because its old, pulls a 5500lb car, and everyone seems to want to race my ass like they have an F1.......

how much worse on the MPG we talking? i mean i thought 9-10 was bad enough, if i put it in will it drop below 7-8?

So I was wondering if anyone knows if installing a system would bring down my HP/MPG. Someone told me that it brought down the HP in his '65 mustang a considerable amount. It doesnt make sense to me how you could lose HP? But the MPG thing seemed plausible, becuase I know running the A/C is a MPG killer I figured this might do it too? I'm only running about 2000W RMS and maybe about 90-100lbs? its a chevy 350 in a '71 chevelle. If anyone knows if that a load of crap or not that would really help me out, because I really want to put my system in but not at the expense of a lot of power and mileage.

yea you will definitely want to sand it all the way down, since you have to mold and shape it to the body it needs the strongest bond and if its just on top itll start chipping off THROUGH your paint. I have a picture from my car if you want to see an example. Nothing teaches you better than personal experience, especially if you do it right the first time. And if your bondo is going in to repair where rust is, you definitely need to, becuase you need to grind all the rust off first anyway, but get all around it so it doesnt spread.

I heard a story recently of someone using JB Woodweld epoxy for wood-wood that held really well, but he had to buy quite a bit. And for wood-metal I have used J-B weld alot since it holds so well from porous to non-porous surfaces in my car, which shakes and moves all day and the weld has never even cracked or chipped or anything, looks like i just set it the day before.

If it's $800 for only the subs and amp, with shipping and tax im assuming, then you probably want to run something like an Fi/DC/or AQ with like 1k-2k RMS that you can match an amp with, but thatll be tricky to keep right at $800. You can buy alot of stuff right here through SMD, pleanty of used stuff that'll last you and at a good price. If your $800 includes sub, amp, box, and wiring and all that your gonna have to go a little smaller and cheaper.

oh man, talk about the pain of an install, how was going through that wheelwell? I have a 1990 LS400 and it was my first install and learning everything via the internet was ridiculous, only to have my favorite GAS TANK in the way! hahaha! As for trunk pressure, I find it best to take off the back tailight that covers the hole of the old stock subwoofer, if you port anywhere else you have to drill through the metal frame, if thats not a problem go for it. I had a FAT rattle with it on, even though its that mesh covering, it seemed to make everything 50x worse, so you could hear the trunk rattle inside the cab and it forced the plastic cover to just shake violently and all you had was rattle, I took it off and the difference it unbelievable! I didnt even know bass was supposed to sound like that haha, and nice install!

1--go to the profile and click connect to Xbox LiVE, then a message appears, 2--click view license agreement(or something like that) and on the bottom line click accept then it sshould log you in as normal, and of course youll be connected... worked for me No i didnt have any problems getting back on, I saw that everyone else was, I just meant that it Disconnected me without telling me why, then I noticied I needed to update, and after I did it worked fine for me, but that it wasnt all that great anyway...but thanks haha

i was just on for about an hour after I updated, played Forza 4 and Gears 3, only thing was when i updated it just disconnected me without telling me why, but I never had problems getting back on....but overall its not that great, some coll little things and its more descriptive about friends...thats about all I find useful..

you can delete the other if youd like, ill keep it in here thanks

I cant seem to get pictures directly from the site............so heres the whole album on photobucket, UNFORTUNATELY i didn't take pictures during the install, but i have the finished project and im looking to get a new system soon so ill have those pics.... Subs: 2- Alpine Type-X Dual4-ohms wired down to 2 ohms Amps: 2- MTX Thunder X's, 1000.xd's on a 2 ohm load at @1012 RMS each Batt: 1 Interstate Megatron Plus+ battery Wiring: 1/0 Gauge all the way Alt: Stock 110 amp alternator (looking to upgrade but almost NOBODY seems to make one for my car) Box: a GAY prefab ground-shaker dual divided 2.95 cu. box and i put a bunch of insulation inside the box. HU: Kenwood KDC-BT645U - not state of the art but its simple and easy which makes it great for me, and its cheap......... My car is an old white 1990 Lexus LS400, not very popular for car audio but its my first car, and its free........unfortunately its build to be quiet, its extremely well-built and thick and heavy........so it doesn't rattle much, but there a huge amount of bass lost from the trunk to the cab b/c the sheet of metal is about 1/4 inches thick into the cab from the trunk and it a solid car so it doesn't let a ton of bass out. So although my whole car doesn't flex its not because my bass is weak, its just am extremely heavy car and the whole concept of the car was how quiet they could get the car to be........... its a clean install that took a bunch of my time, im looking to get a job and buy a different car, but being 16 and looking for work don't seem to mix well and many places require at-least 18 so it'll be a while. I uploaded some pictures to photobucket I think you can see them there ----> http://s1140.photobu.../AlanTenfelder/ and i have some videos, my car is currently in the shop for a regular checkup so I cant make a video showing its best potential and because of MLK Jr day I wont have it back until Tuesday. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aASVleYyFiE http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mAHONXdRuFw

haha yea thanks for realizing how annoying a heavy lurury car is.........and i know its off topic but i just threw it together for SOTM in like 2 mins so ill re-do it later