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CorNut

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Everything posted by CorNut

  1. What amp(s) are you running? 1/0 has more capacity than dual 4awg, but if you'll only be drawing 200a, there's not really a functionality downside to dual 4awg. What brand wire, OFC for both 4awg & 1/0? For example, KnuKonceptz OFC 4awg is rated up to 150a at 20ft, 1/0 is rated up to 375a. If you're running a 2k class D amp though, a dual 4awg run should be plenty so there's no reason to get the 1/0 if you don't mind looking at/fusing 2 runs and the savings of it is worth it to you.
  2. We're doing 2 ports, I was just curious if ~30" ports was what we need. Thank you, you helped and we're definitely doing dual 8" aeros netting ~8.4 based on your responses. I'm guessing somewhere around 30" each but they're the BAP aeros which are easy to adjust so we'll figure it out/get it dialed in.
  3. that's what I was needing to know. Would you know how long each port would need to be for a ~30hz tune in a shared 8.4 cu ft box? I'll figure out the port displacement then make the enclosure that much larger to net 8.4. It's going to be a standard rectangle enclosure so that part will be easy. I'm thinking they'll need to be a little too long but want to make sure first. I think I'll probably have to go with a slot port, which is fine but we were liking the idea of trying the aeros. Also, I figured the specs would be on the site. They were (of course lol) in the box and they do match the ones I assumed were right on Sky High's site. B2 needs to update theirs. Is what I read wrong about aeros needing nearly half the port area? A single 8" gives 50.2 of the 86.6 the specs call for, which is around 58%. I've read an aero only needs 56% of the area, is that not true? I trust what you say 100% & appreciate your responses. I've never done a dual port design. I'm showing my length as needing to be ~31" w/flare per port if I did 2, which won't give the needed port clearance inside the box. That's how it works right, when adding the additional port, the number I'm getting on the length calculator is per port so I think I'm back to a slot design if that's the case.
  4. I don't think they even have that driver on their website. They have a Rampage 15 but comparing the #'s to sky high doesn't add up. The B2 PDF says .49 displacement which matches what the v3 is, not the v4 that he bought.
  5. I wish I was/already knew the answer. You can let me have it if need be, I want to learn/understand it even if I get insulted as long as it leads to the education I seek lol. We already have the subs & amp, we're hoping to build the enclosure within the next few weeks. I've been reading about aeros getting away with near half the port area but different people have different opinions on that. The subs will be inverted (top), we need 48" width, no more than 19" height (lower the better) and we have 32" depth but that's not taking port (rear) clearance into account. It's going in a Sequoia. We're using 3/4" birch, figuring double wall & triple baffle. We're hoping to have the rear firing port in the center on the lower portion of the box. The BAP aero seems to be the easiest way to do that. We're open to other ideas, we're mainly looking at aesthetics/what we thought would look good. I'm guessing the 8" aero is enough but the wood is expensive and would hate to do something we'd regret.
  6. We're going to be building an 8.4 cu ft enclosure as recommended by B2 but I'm wondering about using a single BAP 8" aero. Subs: 2x B2 Rampage 15 XMv4's Amp: B2 Zero 9 (9kw RMS) SkyHigh lists 43.3 port area for a single 15 in a 4.2 enclosure. The plan is to stick to the recommended volume but I'm wondering if using a single 8" aero (~50 sq in?) will be ok. https://skyhighcaraudio.com/copy-of-b2-audio-18-rampage-v4/
  7. An option if you want to retain cargo space, that passenger side has an open area towards the top if you wanted to side fire something similar to this. I prefer rear fire but a box with an angled back like the one I did here could leave more available room. This was for a single SA-10 and it was built on the smaller side, everybody has different goals. I didn't build it for myself.
  8. I'm going to be installing a Clarion XR5520 5-ch amp in a pontoon. There's plenty of space but the amp is only rated at 300w on the sub channel. A dyno of the previous model shows the sub channel doing 350w+ certified. Boats aren't my thing but I'm guessing an open deck I should go ported to maximize output. Any idea on something I can make work on 300-350w? I'm guessing it'll be underwhelming no matter what I do but the amp is mostly so I can upgrade the crappy factory 6.5's.
  9. I always set them with math similar to what Dafaseles said, only I multiply the enclosure tuning by .75 (it's a lot less work!). If you want to play it safe, set it 1-3 hz higher than your result. Being tuned to 31.7, I don't see any issues setting it at 25. If you start hearing the sub bottom out, raise it a notch. For daily drivers that have amps without subsonic filters, I build their enclosures between 29-32hz. Higher tuned (40's) boxes, the subsonic filter is especially important.
  10. what sub(s) & how much space is available?
  11. Is your spare tire under the floor in that cargo area, if so what size is it? By the looks of their no wasted space design, I'm guessing there might not be enough room/height for a JBL Basspro Hub. Have you seen those? Not having a trunk to middle it, it might give you some bass. You won't be floating towels, but your limitations don't leave many options that aren't a lot of work. You don't lose your spare tire with that sort of thing, it sits inside the rim of your spare. I've never seen/heard one, but it should help fill out the sound. Are you willing to build a side firing enclosure to put against the wall of your cargo area? Is it just the depth you need or can you not sacrifice a little width either?
  12. I'm not saying you should remove it, but it sounds like you'd want something louder than just the floor will give you. They didn't waste any space with that design did they? For subs on your stock alternator, you wouldn't be able to run a huge amp. A pair of 10" or 12" Incriminator i-series would call for around 1000w but they like fairly large boxes. Not being able to use the cargo area makes it difficult in that vehicle.
  13. I love DC subs, but the Kicker amp can produce its 1.2k at 1 or 2ohm. I'm honestly not sure if there'd be an audible difference between the 2, but the fact the Kicker can produce the same power at 1 or 2 ohm helps with box rise. It looks like Amazon has it for $370 right now, it isn't the cheapest amp that's for sure. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NS9SSNK
  14. Are you opposed to removing your back seat since you aren't using it/won't be able to use it anyway? There's lots of good 10's in that price range, you can get a pair for that. You could build the enclosure to make your cargo area larger than it is, using the enclosure as part of it. There's nothing wrong with setting your enclosure on the hump, you'll just do some legs of some sort on the sides for support. I think removing the seat will get you a better enclosure.
  15. Looking at what type of system you're after, I haven't found a shallow mount capable of what you're after. There is the Sundown SD4's, they claim they're shallows, but they're not very shallow. You could remove that seat though, and build the enclosure so the top of it acts as a bench so to speak, giving you the larger cargo area while front firing your subs. That wouldn't be difficult to accomplish. You'd get the added area and you could get a couple 12's in there with adequate airspace.
  16. For electrical, the standard upgrades are the big 3 (you should do that even if you run 1000w), high output alternator & a better battery/batteries depending on your need. Is this going in a truck/SUV? If so, do you happen to know what factory alternator you have in your model? Some of them come with decent alternators from the factory. Is there absolutely no room behind the seat you're willing to spare, and there's no room under the seat? Here's a link with pictures of what I did in my truck: http://www.southpad.com/silverado It may not be ideal since you're limited on sub selection but you won't lose the use of your backseat if your needs ever change. If you are willing to lose its use though (you don't use it anyway), removing it would give you all the room you need. If you have space under or behind your seat, are you willing to go with shallow subs? Shallow subs aren't capable of what your previously listed subs are, but they may not require electrical upgrades besides the big 3 and possibly a better battery either. If you keep the seats, going with a single higher end 12, but taller enclosure will allow for a better suited enclosure for the sub, and depending on your factory alternator, you may be able to get by with only doing the big 3. If you do have room under your seat, but only 3-4", you can raise the seat a few inches to get more space.
  17. I can help design a box for you, then we can leave the design on the thread for a couple days for people to look over/make changes. I have drill at the fire dept tonight but I can mock something up this weekend. Do you want the back on that upper shelf? What's the width you have up there before it has any angles that'd interfere with the rectangular width of the box sliding in? How deep is it in the upper area between the furthest aft portion of the seat/whatever's in the way first & the transition? I'm seeing 15.5" height back there, then a 7.5" transition, is that correct? Here's a pic of one I designed & built a few weeks ago for a single 12, we can do something similar. Whatever I design, you'll have to tape some cardboard or something together with the dimensions and make sure it fits in there before you actually build it, that's important as I'm sure you know. Looking, there may not be much depth available. If there's not, there's probably no reason to include it since you'd lose potential width. If we do just a rectangular box, I can get that done tomorrow since it'll be straightforward.
  18. Joe X is one of your best bets for help with an enclosure. The way you type without periods/commas makes your post come across as a rant, that's all. You definitely don't have adequate port area though, he's just more brutally honest than most! I'm not a box designer like him, whoever designed your box gives designers a bad name with its 6" of port area.
  19. Instead of the HD 3000, if I were to go Taramps I'd grab the Smart 3 Bass and run a pair of D2 subs down to .5-ohm. That amp runs more efficient the lower ohm you run. Is that 2.8cu ft gross you have for the subs? I'm partial to the Sundowns but they may like a larger enclosure than that. It's more than enough if that's the net volume. Are you planning on going sealed? If so, I'd advise against them. Let us know the specifics on the enclosure and we'll be able to answer better on sub selection. I've done a single SA-10 tuned to 32 in 1.25 with great results. What are your max dimensions? I can mock something up for criticism. There's people better at designing than me but I can get you close.
  20. I like the Kicker CXA1200 as long as you get the newer 1 ohm stable one (46CXA1200.1) if you want to keep the Kicker theme for the subs. That particular amp is 1 ohm stable, but it also produces its 1200w at 2 ohm which will help combat box rise. The downside is they have a fixed subsonic (high pass) filter, but since you're running sealed, setting a specific subsonic isn't as crucial. I think it'll work fine for you. There's a lot of other non kicker options too but I've had great results with kicker amps. The CXA line has done well for me in cars with auto start/stop where the voltage dips and they've never cut out. That amp currently goes for around $400 and the bass knob has to be purchased separately (~$20-30). If that's too much, check out CT Sounds' offerings. The CT-1500.1D (bass knob is included) goes for $200, less if you sign up for their newsletter for a coupon on your first purchase.
  21. It makes a difference but it isn't like a 12" L7R will be equal to a round 15" CompR or anything. The enclosure in the picture is only 1.25 sq ft. It's too tall for you, but it shows a different shape so it doesn't stick out as far. There's 12's that work in as little as 1cu ft, going wider gives you room for a port. I'm not saying the particular box I'm building, I'm using that as an example. Your 1 cu ft square'ish box doesn't have enough room to port it with its current shape. If you don't care & want to stay sealed, shape doesn't matter. If you're looking to port it, that particular box will need some sort of external port because of its shape. We can design you a wider/more recessed box if you want to go ported but I guess I'm still unsure what you're after. Are you looking to replace gear, use your old gear or what? You seem like you want to keep that particular box, which is totally ok, but if that's the case, you should be looking for a 12 with a high qts rating and a larger amp.
  22. I have no experience with Skar TBH, but people on a budget love them. That being said, my last bit talking about the Sundown 12" SA Classic (rev3), I mentioned in that setup I'd choose the CT amp, KnuKonceptz wire & Sundown sub. Of all the options, that's the route I'd personally go. That included no Skar items, but that isn't anything against Skar. Also, most brands have their stuff manufactured overseas, it isn't just Skar. I know some of the Skar stuff is sourced in the US, but most isn't. That goes for most brands out there, Kicker is one of the original US audio brands but now most of their stuff is sourced overseas too. If you give measurements and let one of us design you a box, my guess is that single SA-12 & CT 1kw amp will shock you. You'll only have $365 into it plus a sheet of 3/4" MDF but you'll be hitting way above your weight class. If you wanted to run 2xSA-12's, that's when I'd actually recommend a Skar amp because I've seen it perform on a dyno. If you ran an RP-2000 you'd push 2 SA-12's np (assuming your electrical is up for it). Sundown isn't bottom line btw, neither is CT Sounds. RMS ratings don't mean much with the lesser brands. The big names like Kicker, Rockford etc tend to hit rated RMS but so do some of the less expensive brands. The problem is, you don't know which ones do it, Skar is one that does. The Blaupunkt I linked for $110 doesn't hit rated, it claims 2800w @ 1ohm RMS but realistically it puts out 1000w RMS, which is fine if you know it's a 1000w amp and not expecting 2800w. I'm sharing the info you need, there's lots of good brands, lots of bad brands. You have a budget, I'm giving you my opinion on what to get based on your budget. I need to know how much space you're willing to sacrifice, if you're willing to sacrifice enough space to run 2x SA-12's & an RP-2000, you won't be disappointed, I assure you. Check out this dyno & its 1-ohm certified result (<1% THD), it's not dirty power. The Sundown SA-12 I linked is rated at 750w, but they're tough. They love clean power, it's ok to run that amp on a pair of them assuming you set your gains properly. Be sure to get the D4's if you run a pair, not the D2's. If you're only going to run 1, get the D2.
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