TonyD'Amore
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Posts posted by TonyD'Amore
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now i know what decks not to buy..
a legit question. will that signal destroy speakers or will it only sound like crap? in other words. what kills a sub, distortion or a clipped signal
Too much power kills a sub, and clipping the signal is one way of giving it a lot more power (up to 200% more) without it getting much louder. This problem by itself would not destroy speakers, but it would not sound good. It has the same problem at 1kHz which sounds reallllly bad.
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I wonder if the company knows about this or even cares?
I'm guessing they do care, and probably don't know. Just my guess though.
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Knowledge, send it in and we will take care of you. I don't know where you have been emailing but I can tell you it wasn't to me. We don't sit in front of computers during the day as we are the actual manufacturer, we are in the lab with soldering irons in hand all day. So sometimes it does take us a few days before we see an email. Either way, its all good, just ship it to
D'Amore Engineering
1920 E. 3rd St.
Suite 12
Tempe, AZ 85281
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The Amp Dyno doesn't lie
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@AMI, please send it to us, we will replace the light pipe.
D'Amore Engineering
1920 E. 3rd St.
Suite 12
Tempe, AZ 85281
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Are you connecting the probes to the speaker + and Batt - or the speaker + and speaker -
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Your results would be more accurate with more sub than the single 10, unless it has a really high Vas (at least half of the enclosure size)
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I understand that you're upset spending $400 and not having a working product in your hands. I get that, really dude I do.
Did you ever think to email the man that actually built the thing? That's all I'm getting at. Tony D makes himself VERY easily accessible and cares very much about you having a working product in your hands. Anyone that has had ANY interaction with him, knows this. A simple email/phone call and he would have taken a personal interest in YOUR problem. You saying that you doubt the guys making the tools probably don't give a shit about their products couldn't be further from reality.
Guess I am the luckiest person in the world to get back to back defective products of a rarely sold item. That's like buying a Ferrari and it becomes a lemon. Than get another Ferrari and its a lemon too. The odds???
I posted this thread about 2 weeks ago for some direction and no one had anything to say. Now I call out a brand and now everyone has something to say about the kind of person I am. Amazing that you guys are blaming me but when I was being nice asking for advice, you guys were all quiet. Now my asking for advice has turned into me causing my own issues and making accusations, you guys all want to start pointing the finger at me. Really guys? How many SMD products do you own? I am in no way a hater. I am an installer and always looking to get any edge I can over other installers in my area. I use my SMD tools on the regular. Hell if Steve came out with a fkn screw driver, I'd probably buy that too. A forum is open dialog for people to connect. Last time I had an issue I posted a thread and Tony responded later the same day. I was pretty much expecting a similar interaction since he still is a partner in here.
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The AMM-1, like all of our tools has a auto-off timer that will shut it off after about 8 minutes to save the battery if accidentally left on. If you are deep in the middle of doing something and you are worried about it shutting off mid-test, just press the "ON" button occasionally, this will reset the timer.
If it turns off and says low batt when turned back on, or just won't turn on at all, the battery is probably junk. Even "fresh" batteries if cheap or old might have problems. You need a quality battery like a duracell or energizer that has been made in the last couple of years. They ususally have experation dates on the packaging.
About it not reading power, let's make sure the battery issue isn't an issue and then try measuring power again. You need both the voltage probes hooked to the amplifier speaker + and - and ONE of the speaker wires (the positive or negative doesn't matter but not both) going through the current transformer hole.
As for the serial number, it should be behind the rubber boot on the tool above the battery door. We build all of these by hand, 100% in Tempe, Arizona. We do not buy these or outsource the labor and the same 2 people have been building them for over 3 years and over 6000 units now. I have no idea why a serial number wouldn't be there.
Lets work though these items one at a time, I want you to enjoy using the AMM-1 as many others do.
Tony
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So I got my triple pack aboot a month ago . I am very pleased with them... I use them all the time.. How ever I have had some issues with my dd1+.... Now I know for sure one set of my probes isnt allowing me to read correctly but I'll take it apart fix it up...
But anyhow... I notice on the new Kenwood 571 when I am trying to get the distortion point , it randomly blips red as I'm turn it up... And then I can't find the Max point..I'm unsure what it means... I also have tried to set an overlap and it won't let me do it until its seeing distortion, rather then turning it back 1notch to undistorted.. Is this normal...
What does "inf+ db " mean. It had this read out yesterday when I was setting up and audio control unit
I am sure I am diken it up somehow... instruction are pretty simple , and they don't really tell you much other then how to use them.... I have been watch Steve's videos on how to use them and some other peoples..so I have my angles covered.. Just sometimes something are frustrating any help would be awesome thanks guys
Did you get your questions answered?
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maybe im not paying attention but im still not fully understanding the dd1 plus.
Orion, we took the DD-1, added a microprocessor, an LCD, the HV high voltage internals, AC Voltmeter and proprietary firmware.
It allows someone to find max headunit volume setting and set gain overlap of amplifiers with 0.1dB resolution. If you want 7.3dB of overlap you can set it like that. It also allows a shop to be able to check the gain overlap of a customer's system WITHOUT making any adjustments to their system. Also to recheck gain overlap settings if a customer returns for warranty. On top of all of that, it is actually even FASTER to use than the original DD-1.
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I finalized some changes to the firmware yesterday that includes a reset function for the DC min/max without cycling screens and some more filtering in dyno mode to deal with burping on a highly inductive load. If you would like the newer firmware, version 3.8 in your unit please send your AMM-1 to us, we will update the firmware, test the unit and ship it right back to you.
Sorry there is not a way to remotely update it, but that would have added cost to the design and we don't anticipate any further firmware updates.
Please send it here and we will take care of it promptly, and send it right back with a couple of D'Amore Engineering vinyl decals for your trouble.
D'Amore Engineering
1920 E. 3rd St
Suite 13
Tempe, AZ 85281
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Connect the voltage probes to the same connections that you are using for output to the subs. Then run one of the speaker wires through the hole in the case.
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You could use these two tools together, or even just the IM-SG by itself. In audio the "crossover point" is what we call the frequency where the speaker is receiving half of the power it normally would. That being said lets do an example for a 4 ohm tweeter. Tools needed, IM-SG and a small 4 ohm resistor (1/2 watt or larger). Connect the resistor to the tweeter output of the passive crossover. If the crossover has jumpers for attenuation make sure they are set at -0dB. Connect the IM-SG to the input of the passive crossover, turn the freq all the way up to 20kHz. The impedance should read close to 4 ohms. Turn the frequency down until the impedance reads 8 ohms. This would be the crossover frequency. Let me know how it goes.
Tony
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DRAMA! Video 9: Watts The Truth About Measuring Power
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Steve, do you still have tony making these? they look so much like the black PCB's from rockford's amps
Same Engineer
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so I can buy all those tools and a concrete bucket or 1 single tool?
geez, tough choice. but I do see that guys point, this isn't the only tool that works. But, I will let him use the concrete bucket...
I understand what he is saying as well, just giving him a hard time. Jokes aside, even if that setup worked, you would then know how many VA your amplifier can put out into a bucket of concrete. Still wouldn't tell you how many Watts your amplifier puts into your SPEAKERS
say what? That's exactly what your dyno does. Uses a purely resistive load to measure power output in watts....
Last time I checked a coil of wire is an Inductor, not a resistor. I think you are confusing it with this http://www.rexresearch.com/davis/davis.htm
Oh snap Tony doesn't know what bifilar winding is. rofl. it's as close as you can get to a completely resistive load with magnet wire.
please.... FYI I made the power transformers in the T15kW penti-filar.
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so I can buy all those tools and a concrete bucket or 1 single tool?
geez, tough choice. but I do see that guys point, this isn't the only tool that works. But, I will let him use the concrete bucket...
I understand what he is saying as well, just giving him a hard time. Jokes aside, even if that setup worked, you would then know how many VA your amplifier can put out into a bucket of concrete. Still wouldn't tell you how many Watts your amplifier puts into your SPEAKERS
say what? That's exactly what your dyno does. Uses a purely resistive load to measure power output in watts....
Last time I checked a coil of wire is an Inductor, not a resistor. I think you are confusing it with this http://www.rexresearch.com/davis/davis.htm
DD-1 vs CLEAN vs Cheap LOC
in D'Amore Engineering - High Quality Car Audio Installation Tools & Accessories
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