TonyD'Amore
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Posts posted by TonyD'Amore
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so I can buy all those tools and a concrete bucket or 1 single tool?
geez, tough choice. but I do see that guys point, this isn't the only tool that works. But, I will let him use the concrete bucket...
I understand what he is saying as well, just giving him a hard time. Jokes aside, even if that setup worked, you would then know how many VA your amplifier can put out into a bucket of concrete. Still wouldn't tell you how many Watts your amplifier puts into your SPEAKERS
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Do we have anyone art-sy in here? I'd love to see a sketch of a guy dynoing an amplifier with a bucket of concrete with a pos scope, a voltmeter, a clamp meter, and a calculator attached to it.
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Load banks can also be made cheap with voicecoil wire and bifilar winding submerged in concrete... That's like 50 bucks tops.
Have fun spending thousands on tools when a little know how can save you a lot of money.
You should manufacture and sell your bucket-o-concrete meter. Sounds profitable. The shipping costs might suck though.
I remember when we stared 3 years ago, someone told us "I could build a DD-1 with $10 of parts from Radio Shack". I'm still waiting to see it.
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You are looking at about $5000 worth of testing equipment sitting on my make shift bench. I have the tools to do the job correctly, most people dont.thank you cj18, that's what I was trying to explain with my last post but you said it much better.
in short what im seeing is that with out the proper equipment (which gets expensive just for a good scope) you cant get an accurate results from the clamping that most people do. it can be a more accurate test with the right tools at hand and more work but for the money the amm1 is a steal.
all the scopes ive seen run around $300-400 for a nice one. don't forget the dmm and getting a test bench together to put a reactive load on the amp to get a true rms reading at a given load.
The AMM1 now provides an affordable solution that.
That's what i'm trying to say, with cost difference between the tools needed to get an accurate test the amm1 is a hands down winner.
Yes clamping with the right tools can give you More accurate result but still not 100% and not as cost effective. Let's face it us audio guys are always looking for a good way to save money while still getting the install done right. The amm1 helps do that plus some with ease and accuracy.
Sorry if anyone feels like i'm baking clamping, not trying to. It's the way of the past and inaccurate compared to the amm1. For a cost effective tool the amm1 is a steal.
Unless the amm1 is cheaper than 250 bucks then it's actually not the better deal. But if you honestly need something that can measure taking into account for the power factor then I guess spend the extra money. 99% of people don't do it and so the industry standard is basically clamping for voltamps.
If the Fluke meters are used with an purely resistive load (99% of people do not have this), and you can guarantee that NO CLIPPING occurs then the AMM-1 and clamps should agree. So you need a True RMS Voltmeter, a True RMS clamp meter, an oscilloscope, and a non-inductive load bank. So basically an Amp Dyno. Add a zero to the end of that $250
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The first 5 minutes of Video 5 on this page describe why a DMM and clamp become inaccurate if the signal clips at all, even if they are "True RMS" meters. What is RMS? Find out here http://www.damoreengineering.com/freeeducation.html
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Give your house a .25 ohm load and see if it goes into protect. Lol
It will go into protect with a 4 ohm load. (breaker will pop) But should do about 3600W before that happens.
Disclaimer: I am not responsible if you shock the shit out of your self.
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Can this measure tuning freq for a 4th order, both sealed tuning and ported tuning?
If the box is already made it would be able to tell you the port tuning frequency. The sealed tuning would have to be measured as a sealed box only, not firing into a ported box. So if you were building a bandpass box you would be able to do this during the building process
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Connect it to your home stereo's speaker connections and see if you get signal then.
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Does the amp dyno accurretly test the Brazilian amps as well? I have been hearing debates between whether it does or doesn't. I am currently looking at a Taramps HD8000 & few believe it's capable of producing claimed power by the cost. I have very little knowledge of all the differences between full bridged (Korean) & half bridged (Brazilian). If possible, could someone do a amp dyno test to either prove or disprove the dyno & amps (HD8K) ability or inability?
The Amp Dyno doesn't care one way or the other. It will measure the true power coming into it regardless where it is coming from. You could connect it to a wall socket if you wanted to dyno your house.
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Just wanted to take a minute to describe some of the differences between the AD-1 Amplifier Dyno and the AMM-1 Audio Multimeter
The AD-1 Amplifier Dyno can do these things that the AMM-1 cannot do:
1. Measure Amplifier Output into a purely resistive load bank
2. Measure Amplifier Output until 1.0% THD is reached
3. Measure Amplifier Output into 10 different load impedances with the touch of a button
4. Measure Amplifier Dynamic Power Output (IEC-202 Standard for headroom)
5. Capture the exact B+ Voltage that was seen at the amplifier at the moment the last power reading was made
6. Two DD-1+ built in.
7. Measure amplifier output in car using resistive load bank vs your speakers, this provides VERY consistent measurements so the effects from changing things like a better B+ power cable, better ground, better battery etc can be easily and accurately measured
This is the exact type of testing the the factories use when manufacturing the amplifiers, and meet CEA standards. They are very defined tests with strict rules.
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The AMM-1 Audio Multimeter can do these things that the AD-1 cannot do:
1. Measure amplifier power into your speaker load, both apparent power (VA) and true power (Watts)
2. Measure impedance of your speaker load at any freq from 20Hz - 1kHz
3. Measure the current vs voltage phase shift of a reactive load (Power Factor)
4. Measure the DC Voltages like a multimeter
5. Super fast DC Min/Max for measuring drops and peaks of a DC voltage
6. Measure the Power CONSUMPTION of AC powered devices, like microwaves and light bulbs for example
7. Find the tuning freq of your subwoofer box, box rise and such
That is a short summary, I'll be checking when I can to answer any technical questions about the product.
Thanks!
Tony D
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only thing, i wish it didnt stop its true power dyno at clipping. some/most competitors go into clipping, so this would in turn give them a unless number (not completely useless), but you get the point. it would be cool if it was possible to be able to include or omit the clipping stopping point.
You can read clipped power. On the VA and Power Factor screen, the VA reading isn't limited by the clipping detector so you can just take the VA number and multiply it by the Power Factor % and you will have Watts (clipped or not)
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So when setting everything up with a dd1 you can just simply hook it too to the last part in the system Anne set it all up from the front to back, that will make it easier and faster IMO.
On question I have is if using say a -5 track is used ti set it up how does that change the process?
Instead of the 0dB for the first part of the process before going to the overlap setting?
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Check out Video 7 of our series of educational videos. As usual, this one starts off answering the homework problem from Video 6, and then goes into the science behind the gain control knob and properly setting gains.
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If you still think "clamping" to measure amplifier output power is "close enough" you should watch the answer to the homework problem from Video 6, here at the beginning of Video 7. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q48LQou_VhE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q48LQou_VhE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q48LQou_VhE -
Video 7 is posted.
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Easy peasy bro, I test mine all the time with different subs.
To test the tuning (sealed resonance) of the sealed section, just take off your front baffle (if removable like mine is) so that there is no loading whatsoever on the subs forward wave. Your highest impedance will be your sealed resonance.
To find the tuning of the port just find the lowest impedance between the two peaks in impedance; same exact concept as finding your tuning in a standard ported enclosure.
Nailed it
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Untill you make a cost effective way to "clamp" power. I guess your going to have to hear about people clamping it the cost effective (poor people) way.
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Why you need a SMD IM-SG Impedance Meter at 27:25
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If the topic of why clamping isn't accurate still isn't clear, check out Video 6 of the D'Amore Engineering University series here
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a competitor in a power limited class doesn't care what power the amp makes @ 2 or 4 or 8 ohms. all that matters is how much power they make in the car at x impedance ( after rise). unfortunately the amp dyno is not capable of that, so clamping will remain the standard in that scenario.
How does the dyno compare to a meter like the extech wattage meter? ( I have no idea, that's why I ask) That seems to be what is used by a lot of competitors as well the meter most db drag judges seem to use
There is now a tool for you sir.
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Yes that's what I meant. It measures real time power not what it's capable of doing?
yes
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So you can see what impedance your amp is seeing also at different frequencies with this?
yes
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just so i understand since i am an idiot, its a multimeter and a handheld ad1?
Basically. Just that it uses your speaker loads and measures how much power your amplifier is putting into your speakers. The amp dyno uses load resistors and measures how much power the amplifier is capable of putting out.\
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The latest installment of the D'Amore Engineering University Free Education Series has been uploaded. Video 6 - AC Current and Power (Super Scary Halloween Special).
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Clamping Method vs SMD AD-1 Amp Dyno vs. SMD AMM-1 Audio Multimeter
in D'Amore Engineering - High Quality Car Audio Installation Tools & Accessories
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A bank of fixed resistance... sounds like Chase.