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shogen

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Posts posted by shogen

  1. Call them... this should be their current sale/pricing

    We reserve the right to end this sale at any time.

    All good cable, just odd lengths and left over from longer lengths. You must take the entire length listed for the discounted price:

    4/0 / 108 mm sq.(EBT 214-PXL) $ 3.05 per foot: Inventory 75’, 92’, 200’ ,250’ 250’ …..

    3/0 / 85 mm sq. (EBT 168-PXL) $ 2.35 per foot: Inventory 24’, 40’, 54’, 58’, 59’,73’, 118’, 150’, 177’…..

    2/0 /68 mm sq. (EBT 134-PXL) $ 1.90 per foot: Inventory 40’, 65’, 76’, 96’, 97’,98’, 175’, 245’, 282’……


    1/0 / 54 mm sq. (EBT 107-PXL) $ 1.50 per foot: Inventory 25’(x 30 pcs),
    44’, 48’, 50’, 54’, 58’(x 2 pcs), 63’ (x 3 pcs), 65’, 67’, 70’, 85’,
    90’ (x 2 pcs), 95’, 245’…….

    2 g / 35 mm sq. (EBT 69-PXL) $ 1.00 per foot: Inventory 40’, 98’.....

    4 g / 23 mm sq.(EBT 46-PXL) $ 0.67 per foot: Inventory 32’ (x 2 pcs.), 129’, 153’, 258’, 290’.....

    6g / 16 mm sq. (EBT31-PXL) $ 0.45 per foot: Inventory 35’, 161’, 284’.....

    CALL CUSTOMER SERVICE AT 815-935-2211 AND TELL THEM YOU WANT THE REMNANT SALE PRICE!

    That wire looks pretty damn good but how do I order it?!? Lol

  2. get any new wire from here man.... I think they go 8ga and up to 4/0

    http://www.electronbeam.com/

    Also gonna ask you guys about some wire options. I currently have Audiopipe 1/0 CCA power wire and Big3, but I plan on buying all new 1/0 OR 2/0, depending on if I need it. First question, could I just use another 100ft of the Audiopipe for another run of pos/neg to dual inputs on my amp? Or do I need OFC?

  3. either of you guys willing to help a brotha out? I still need to make a "mock" enclosure to see what the biggest is I can fit through my trunk opening so it's not immediate.... let me know ... Thanks!

    Reminds me I need to work on mine. They're fun but after a day of changing the port around so many times you get tired of it.

    OP if you give me your max dims and how many cubes + how much port area you want for your enclosure I can do a quick sketchup for you. I like doing them, sometimes it takes a few days until I get on my home computer but I include all the cut dimensions.

  4. no need to match "brand" ... just type... so a AGM battery and AGM battery... REMY up front if it fits and a HC800 in the trunk... I have a HC1800 under the hood and NOW a G34 platinum series from Sears... Previously had a HC800 though and it was great at the time... then I moved up to a 3500 ... plus a "1000w" front stage amp.... lol

    Well I want a smaller battery in the trunk too and you guys said to match the batteries, does that company have a smaller battery like Kinetik has? An I contacted Singer and he has a 250A that he could make for me, would that be enough? I'm just trying to get guided through this cause I'm a dumbass when it comes to this stuff...

  5. Just get a Kinetik equivalent up front... no sense in spending the money for a red top .. plus you ideally wanna have the same battery technologies within an install

    I am in no way a box designer so I hardly have any idea what the hell you're talking about Chris lol. 18th order? I didn't know those even existed...

    As for you Krakin I have just been trying to get my system planned, so I have yet to actually get the alternator and batteries. But im thinking the Mechman 270A...Redtop up front and a kc800 in the trunk.

    • Like (+1 Rep) 1
  6. the obvious thing to do would be to TUNE lower not use a larger box.... he should have the ability to due it that way which is the RIGHT/BEST way to do so

    Obviously I wasn't on top of the right thread.... but I'd honestly not recommend all this for OP .... inexperience can cause a lot of mayhem in itself.... I'd say go for mid - lower side to be on the side of safety with all that equipment.... That's just my opinion

    those specs are not posted anywhere

    edit:on sundown website or SSA where they sell them.

    http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164370-sundown-x-series-10121518-pre-order-eta-june-2013/

    Scroll down a little bit and there ya - post #16 by sundownz....

    Right here on the SMD forum...

    he wants more lows so a larger box would be better..

    Im sorry but im learning alot from you right now.. a larger box will give him more xmax for better lows and plus tuning a 4 cuft is easier than a 2cuft box..

    how so? the Fi Q has the xmax of 28mm and have no problem getting low

    it has to do with the tuning. bigger box is more efficient which will get you louder with less power not hit lower notes

    it easier to tune a bigger box lower than a smaller box and to hit lower notes 25hz> you need xmax and air. a bigger box is going to allow for more xmax to produce the lows needed to be louder.. to do it with a small box you will need more power..

    wizard_eh.jpg

    • Like (+1 Rep) 1
  7. again ... we're just trying to give proper info .... you're asking and we're providing.... bigger box adds efficiency to a degree... obviously too big will cause over excursion as will not setting SSF properly ... tune lower if you want to play lower.... 32-35hz should allow you decent output on mid 20's ... obviously you should model this in WinISD to get a better idea of the response it would put out at certain tuning .... but it's just a reflection of possible output.... your install will yield many differences due to air space in the vehicle and shape of vehicle as well... just food for thought

    You guys is bosses! :D

  8. I get the sarcasm and that's cool BUT .... you're telling me you know that going "bigger" will give him more "XMAX" which will provide more lows?

    AFAIK .... XMAX provides more movement of cone i.e. more displacement of air .... or a bit more loudness .... not sure how XMAX correlates directly to ability to play lower ... but if someone can provide the tech explanation I'd love to learn

    the obvious thing to do would be to TUNE lower not use a larger box.... he should have the ability to due it that way which is the RIGHT/BEST way to do so

    Obviously I wasn't on top of the right thread.... but I'd honestly not recommend all this for OP .... inexperience can cause a lot of mayhem in itself.... I'd say go for mid - lower side to be on the side of safety with all that equipment.... That's just my opinion

    those specs are not posted anywhere

    edit:on sundown website or SSA where they sell them.

    http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164370-sundown-x-series-10121518-pre-order-eta-june-2013/

    Scroll down a little bit and there ya - post #16 by sundownz....

    Right here on the SMD forum...

    he wants more lows so a larger box would be better..

    Im sorry but im learning alot from you right now.. a larger box will give him more xmax for better lows and plus tuning a 4 cuft is easier than a 2cuft box..

  9. the obvious thing to do would be to TUNE lower not use a larger box.... he should have the ability to due it that way which is the RIGHT/BEST way to do so

    Obviously I wasn't on top of the right thread.... but I'd honestly not recommend all this for OP .... inexperience can cause a lot of mayhem in itself.... I'd say go for mid - lower side to be on the side of safety with all that equipment.... That's just my opinion

    those specs are not posted anywhere

    edit:on sundown website or SSA where they sell them.

    http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164370-sundown-x-series-10121518-pre-order-eta-june-2013/

    Scroll down a little bit and there ya - post #16 by sundownz....

    Right here on the SMD forum...

    he wants more lows so a larger box would be better..

  10. lmfao.... well as I read it ... seems he is referring to the z.4 in the specs.... but that's the interpretation since he is answering questions about 2 different woofers in that post

    http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164370-sundown-x-series-10121518-pre-order-eta-june-2013/

    Scroll down a little bit and there ya - post #16 by sundownz....

    Right here on the SMD forum...

    OMG!!! I didn't know the Zv4 is the same as the X!! I'll save money and just buy that!

    Edited out swearing to calm myself.

  11. Obviously I wasn't on top of the right thread.... but I'd honestly not recommend all this for OP .... inexperience can cause a lot of mayhem in itself.... I'd say go for mid - lower side to be on the side of safety with all that equipment.... That's just my opinion

    those specs are not posted anywhere

    edit:on sundown website or SSA where they sell them.

    http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164370-sundown-x-series-10121518-pre-order-eta-june-2013/

    Scroll down a little bit and there ya - post #16 by sundownz....

    Right here on the SMD forum...

  12. Can one of you find the link to the thread? I'm looking for Jacob's post but I cannot seem to find it

    use this as a Guide for these subs..

    10s : 1.25 - 2 cubes ported
    12s : 2 - 3 cubes ported
    15s : 3 - 4.5 cubes ported
    18s : 4 - 6 cubes ported

    At higher power err towards smaller; around rated power err towards bigger.

    this is so wrong lol

    look at Fi Q an 18 needs 6 - 8 cubs ported and not the 4 -6 you stated.. every sub is different and you should go with manufacturer recommendation

    And another subwoofer guru!!!!

    use this as a Guide for these subs..

    10s : 1.25 - 2 cubes ported
    12s : 2 - 3 cubes ported
    15s : 3 - 4.5 cubes ported
    18s : 4 - 6 cubes ported

    At higher power err towards smaller; around rated power err towards bigger.

    No... Use manufacture's specifications as a guide.

    Those recommendations are straight from Jacob's mouth which if you do not know that is the owner of Sundown...so yes that is the manufacures specifications...now please shut up....

    N9neMillahhh - 4 cubes will be perfect for the two 10's on a 3500Dv2 at 1 ohm; don't listen to Krakin because he obviously has no idea what he is talking about....

    thank you.. someone here as been reading the forums..

  13. I haven't seen that posted by Jacob ... unless I missed it someone ... Can you provide a link?

    use this as a Guide for these subs..

    10s : 1.25 - 2 cubes ported
    12s : 2 - 3 cubes ported
    15s : 3 - 4.5 cubes ported
    18s : 4 - 6 cubes ported

    At higher power err towards smaller; around rated power err towards bigger.

    No... Use manufacture's specifications as a guide.

    Those recommendations are straight from Jacob's mouth which if you do not know that is the owner of Sundown...so yes that is the manufacures specifications...now please shut up....

    N9neMillahhh - 4 cubes will be perfect for the two 10's on a 3500Dv2 at 1 ohm; don't listen to Krakin because he obviously has no idea what he is talking about....

  14. Although it is nice to see you want to help Felton .... stop giving bad advice, without seeing the "EXACT" requirement for the Z.4 I wouldn't go beyond 1.5 cubes per 10" because that would be kinda ridiculous .... Please read up some more before someone listens and loses a subwoofer or more.... I mean this with respect....

    use this as a Guide for these subs..

    10s : 1.25 - 2 cubes ported
    12s : 2 - 3 cubes ported
    15s : 3 - 4.5 cubes ported
    18s : 4 - 6 cubes ported

    At higher power err towards smaller; around rated power err towards bigger.

    Well they don't have the specs out yet...and I will have a Singer 250A with his overdrive pulley with a Redtop under the hood and probably two runs knu cca to a khc800 in the trunk, plus the big 3 of course. Singer said that his 250A is ideal for 4-5kw systems and he's credible. Does all that sound good to you guys? I don't want overkill so I don't need an XS3100. :P

    im sorry but you gonna need a bigger or another alternator bcuz the saz3500 amp needs 350a..

    use this as a Guide for these subs..

    10s : 1.25 - 2 cubes ported
    12s : 2 - 3 cubes ported
    15s : 3 - 4.5 cubes ported
    18s : 4 - 6 cubes ported

    At higher power err towards smaller; around rated power err towards bigger.

    this is so wrong lol

    look at Fi Q an 18 needs 6 - 8 cubs ported and not the 4 -6 you stated.. every sub is different and you should go with manufacturer recommendation

    i wrote these subs,,,

    • Like (+1 Rep) 1
  15. I would if I had FB anymore.... but congrats on the social movement!!! lol

    https://www.facebook.com/pages/CE-Auto-Electric-Supply/624369630921265

    I mean you'd think I'd of done this LONG ago, me being the sales & marketing manager for a guy that has one of the biggest facebook followings in all of car audio . . .

    Like us and refer your friends!

  16. Just ordered my Z v.3 two weeks ago. Hopefully it'll be in this week. I'm putting 2 dual 2 15's in my 92 accord. I got D2s because I planned on running one amp per sub. I have four Planet Audio TQ1601s from my previous build so I plan on running 2 of them. I clamped one at a little over 1k before but a Z.v3 is rated 1.5k. I've seen where people dump 5-6k on them but I don't plan on using that much power. I plan to bump these daily and also do a some SPL (145-150db). How much power does it take to really get these subs going because I know my 1k per sub won't even tickle them. As of right now I'm thinking 2 DD M2's.

    Unfortunately no one here can tell you about the magic 150s for you OP..... It is really a matter of install and limitations directly with installation ..... I DO NOT do SPL comps or measure my output or even really try for loud... I know I'm loud when my substage is in a sealed enclosure and I can be heard coming up the block to my parents house(neighborhood is somewhat quiet though)... lol ....

    I'd stay with rated but use what you have now and see where that gets you..... I don't see why it couldn't get you to the output you're looking for if you work on that install

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