Lucky4Designs
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Posts posted by Lucky4Designs
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Steve, your work never ceases to amaze me. It looks sickkkkkkkk!
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I have also wondered if i could some how glue sevral layers of thin to get the thickness i need. But wasent to sure what would work for the glue and stay perfectly clear. Anyone?
What I've done in the past was lay a bead of clear silicone along the edge and put C clamps all the way around. I've also 'torched all sides of the layers together and it worked pretty nicely as well. Just make sure that there is no air pockets between the layers, otherwise it's junked. Lol
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I actually thought about something like this at work the other day. Lol.
I would probably start making my own dustcaps out of ABS plastic, mold a very nasty looking knife or spiked club to the center, and aim for the noggin at full excursion!
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Thought I'd bring this up, about a year ago I was installing the new deck in my truck. I had to rig something up to fix the cut harness and find the right wires, so I was out there until dark with my flashlight. I stepped out to grab my diagram from the house, came back in, and went to work. About 5 minutes into wiring, I start hearing something moving around in the driver's seat. I didn't think much of it because my sister had a dark colored cat, and he would always hang around while I'm working. But I noticed this cat was a little too big. A possum was sitting, just looking at me, that whole time while I didn't even notice him! Message intercepted. Shut garage door + shut truck door = no Possum.
Have you ever experienced an event like this? Lol
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U.S has been doing similar things in many other countries for a very long time this was only brought up in the media since the u.s government ok'd this info to be released.
It would be pretty dumb to have this leaked while they are still actual undercover soldiers in the NK.
x2
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I'm looking for a fairly cheap motor. I want to build a test sub to play around with so I thought I'd build from the ground up! I plan on running around 1,000 - 1,500w RMS daily. Possibly D1 or D2, haven't decided yet. Looking to keep it under $100, I've already got a basket on the way and some adhesives. LMK what you have!
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I have to admit, I've been slacking on getting pictures of my Corolla posted. The car that was totaled by hail damage no longer has a single dent on it, ANYWHERE! As of now, it is sitting with three coats of primer and is just about ready for paint. A friend of mine in Conway Springs has a paint stall he said I could use for a weekend, but in order to use it I have to get the car running first. I have already ordered my entire valve train seal kit ('00 - '02 Corollas with the new 1ZZFE motor had a notorious problem with this) and will be buying my first XS Power batt soon.
In the meantime, I literally sat in my garage for 3 hours, looking at the car and wondering what I could do to set it apart from any other 9th generation Corolla. It's hard to explain or feel what I mean without a picture, but my computer is acting up.
Lighting- Stock headlights, blacked out, with 8000k HID
Blacked out tail lights
Fog lights with 5000k HID
Wheels/Suspension- Flushed & stanced. I am having a tough time finding springs that will give me much more than a 1.5 - 1.7" drop front and rear. I want to run 17" wheels, also blacked out (maybe bright green accents
). I'm thinking a 7 - 7.5" wide rim with the stretched tire. Call it gay, whatever, but I've NEVER seen a flushed & stanced Corolla in my city. Only Civics and Teggies. Body- As of right now, the car is completely debadged. In the center of the trunk between the tail lights used to sit the circular Toyota emblem. Well, I was cruising around eBay the other day and found an RF badge... I looked into it and wouldn't ya know, the measurements are the EXACT size of the OEM Toyota Emblem, so that will take it's place!
Body (cont'd)- I'll honestly say, I really don't care for body kits. For a really clean appearance, I'm going to keep all the body components stock, BUT do a full lip kit. The most extreme I might go is filling in the gaps where one panel meets another, sorta like a unibody. After all, I am going for a flushed look with this car.
Paint (when ready)- This one I am really torn on. I don't know if I want to keep the car's original gloss black, or if I want to go with the two-tone Gloss black & Candy Apple Green to sorta flow with my interior. The line dividing the two wouldn't be straight, but instead go along the bottom of the windows, and slightly curve upward to contour with the front and rear windshields. Once again, it's hard to describe without a picture.
If anyone has any suggestions or comments, feel free to let me know. I get paid tomorrow, and I am going accessory shopping!
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In my Corolla, the headliner was really easy to remove. The dome light popped right out with a flat tip screwdriver, and basically just fell right out when I removed the pillar trim, the trim on the door jamb between the front and rear doors, and rear deck pillar trim. Don't quote me on this, but I believe there is an adhesive specifically for headliners. I used some kind of 3M adhesive (don't remember which kind) and basically laid my new material over the stripped headliner and used a flexible piece of plastic to smooth out wrinkles. It worked great for about 3 months, and then my headliner started to sag from the rapid Kansas temperature change. Lol. 32 degrees one day, 87 the next.
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i alway say its better to just spend that extra 1000 now and get something cleaner with lower miles
I cannot personally vouch that this car is 100% clean because I haven't seen it yet. But from the pictures of it, it looks like it's in great shape inside & out with no major damage. The post does not say how many miles are on it, but most of the mid '90s Camaros I've seen in my area are running between $5000 and $8,000 and this one has a ton of spare parts as well as an SS hood and SS intake conversion
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I'm looking into adding a '96 Z28 Camaro into the family. The guy who posted it said he did a dash swap from a '98, and I don't know if he swapped an LS into it due to the different computers or if he kept the LT. Anyway, it's in pretty good shape. Already dynamatted, has minor things needing replaced, minor clear coat fading on bumper and quarter panel, and a solid motor and tranny. The only problem is that it needs a BCM (Body Control Module) to run. He said that it would need to be bought new (I found out I can get a used one, but I have to have the VIN number from the car it came from) and I would have to take it to a GM dealership so they can program it via OBD II port.
All in all, does anyone know what this would cost to replace?
And for $3,000 obo, does it sound like a good buy?
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dont mind my epic paint skills, hope this helps, if you have any questions just pm me id be glad to help
That looks like it'll be a lot easier, and it would help me clean up the main battery a bit too. It's hard enough to shut my hood with my Big Three done lol. Gotta put my fab skills to work and lower the battery tray a bit as well. As the whole build sits right now, the box is becoming the biggest issue. I've never seen a Corolla with four 15's in it, and I want to do it! I'll PM you some pics and measurements of what I'm working with so far, going out to take the pics now.
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witch battery is in the front? is it ur daylie driver?
The front batt is a D1200, XS recommended it as the main battery and said it's what many of their Corolla enthusiasts use.
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first off, you dont need to fuse grounds, second drop the distro block for the 1000.1D's just get 0-4g reducers, itll lower the resistance in the line and allow your amps to get a tad bit more power(thats just the way id do it personally, to each there own, itll also be cheaper)
third, you CAN do the cut off switch, but i personally like using the PAC LC1 bass knob, its an inline rca bass knob, i dont see why it wouldent work with two amps
and idk where that 3rd run of power is going at the top, just seems to be gone lol
oh and run the 4 channels off the rear batt aswell
Oh wow, I completely forgot about the bass knob. *Slaps-self silly*. This is just a rough draft, and that 3rd run off the top is supposed to be the alt + to battery + lol
The only thing that concerns me about the 0-4 reducers is I hear a lot of complaints about the stud not fitting and how close the terminals are together that the jackets of the wires don't allow them to fit. I'll look into it though.
you dont have to fuse the ground wires because no current is going through them. other then that everything looks good to me, and the 80amp alt may work for a while but you will have a horrible voltage drop at full tilt
I knew I'd have some pretty raging voltage drop, but I have plenty of time to get everything together. Hell by the time I have all of my parts, DC will probably have already released the '98 - '02 Corolla 320A alt haha!
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I apologize for the rough sketch, while I'm not an electrical buff, I think I may have gotten down how I want to run my system. The thickest red/gray lines represent 1/0 wire, medium sized lines for 4 AWG, and thinner lines for 8 AWG. I did leave a couple things out on accident though, such as the battery isolator between the main and aux battery, the cut-off switch for the sub amps, and on the D1200 positive post, the very top 1/0 run going off to the side is the alternator + to battery +.
I have the Big Three already done, but I'm just curious as to whether not my 80A alt will able to charge both batteries temporarily until I get either a DC Power or Mechman alt? Does everything look right otherwise to you guys?
P.S- Running a cut-off switch on the sub amps because here in Kansas, if bass is heard from 20ft away, you get stuck with a $300 noise violation and disturbing the peace ticket. I see popo, subs no-go! Lol
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So the story is half true, half bs? Lol I knew it!!!
Anyway, if this is the case (no pun intended), my aunt worked at Richmond Electric here in Wichita. From what she told me, they hand-wind alternator windings and can custom make their own diodes for commercial and recreational use. I can get this done dirt cheap, and it'll help out in the long run until DC starts producing the 320A alt for my car!
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Is it possible to modify a stock alternator to achieve a higher output? One of my friends talked about how he just did this to his Toyota Celica, and I was wondering if he's blowing smoke or not...
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I think USACI was here in Maize, KS on the 18th, but couldn't make it to that event due to my uncoordinated, consistently changing work schedule. Does anyone know of any sound-off competitions in the Wichita area or around here?
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Thanks for all the help guys! The only thing that concerns me is the issue I had with my 2nd gen. Dickies has a notorious problem for shit falling out of the pockets, one of those items happened to have been my brand new 2nd gen Touch. Long story short, I ran it over with a wheelchair and busted my screen. I ordered a kit online for $29.99 that had all the tools, adhesive, etc.. Upon replacing that, about 2 days later I noticed dirt under my new screen. Then, about a week later, the tab on the underside of the home button snapped and jammed my home button down. Then, I sold it for $20. Lol I just don't want to run into any of those problems again
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My friend is selling me her 32 gig 4th generation iPod Touch for $50, and there's a reason for it.... The screen is completely shattered. Granted it still works, I just don't want glass shards stuck in my fingers all the time. I went to Amazon, eBay, and a few other places to see what they have, but I'm skeptical about buying online because 50% of the reviews are bad, 50% are good. Anyone know where to get the best screen for less than $40? Any help would be awesome!
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I haven't been on a lot lately partly because a LOT has went down this past week. First, I got a job at a local sports bar my friend owns (something's better than nothing right?) and I'm actually making some decent money. I have been busting ass to say the least, 12 hour shift after 12 hour shift, splits, and willingly covering for other people. Not only will I be funding my prototype woofer, but I have decided that it's time to get back on the horse, and finish her off
There's an older thread I started a while back, but I dug through and couldn't find it for the life of me.Here's a little lowdown on my ride: This was my mom's car, she bought it wrecked with 87K on it and I fixed the panels that had been wrecked and matched the paint. A couple years down the road, it encountered the same fate most '00 through '02 Corollas go through. Cracked valve stem seals. It leaked (and still does) a ton of oil but we did everything in our power to be sure it was always full so no damage would take place. In the meantime, mom got tired of putting oil in it, so she bought a new car and this one was left to die in our driveway. Numerous golf-ball-plus sized hailstorms emerged, and it really took it's toll on the poor 'Rolla. I decided to talk to my mom about buying the car to fix it up for me to use, and I got the ok. It is still a work in progress!
The sole reason I stopped working on this car is because it was costing me more than I could afford building boxes on the side. I decided to put it off until I got a job, and now that I have one, it's time to get back to work! Please, keep in mind, I know this is a Corolla. It's simply not a go-fast car by any means (though it has the 1ZZ-FE motor, same as an MR2
), I want it to look good, and I want it LOUD!This is when I first brought her into the garage, after I did some minor body work (filled in dents, holes, etc..)
This is her after a base layer of Rustoleum, then 2 coats of primer. No, I did not primer my tires!
(my mom actually came out and helped primer it!)This spot had a hole about 1/2" in diameter in the center of a pretty large dent.
I will be posting more pictures as I go, my first check comes in Wednesday and I'm going to be ordering a TON of new parts! I've been doing a little "parts list shopping" and I have a pretty nice list gathered so far.
Electrical: Dual MechMan 270XP's, XS Power batts, ***Need help with deciding more!
ALL wiring, grounding, distribution, etc..: KnuKonceptz 1/0 AWG for power, 8 AWG for sub wires, 10 AWG for speaker wire
Tweets, highs, & mids: Rockford Power Series
Subs: L4D SoundLabs
*** I will be needing help or opinions on how I should build this setupAmps: Undecided
iPad in dash?
On the drawing board once again!
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Nice find! I'm a complete pitbull lover, here's my vicious beast
Lol classic! I'll have to dig up the picture of my Pit, she just topped 7 months a couple days ago!
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My thoughts and prayers go out to you and your family. Signing the petition right now brother
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A friend of mine posted this on my wall today, I thought it fit pretty well!
Apologies for the small pic, a larger one pulls up when you click on it
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I'd definitely be interested in some work. I could use some one-off shorting rings
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). I'm thinking a 7 - 7.5" wide rim with the stretched tire. Call it gay, whatever, but I've NEVER seen a flushed & stanced Corolla in my city. Only Civics and Teggies. 
), I want it to look good, and I want it LOUD!
(my mom actually came out and helped primer it!)
8" Lvl 2 recone kits?
in DC Sound Lab - Big Bass on ANOTHER LEVEL!
Posted
I got my sub today, my friend had told me it was blown and wouldn't play so he gave it to me. It appears to be brand new, not a single scratch on the motor, looks as though it had never been mounted. I gave it a good lookover and there's no coil rub, but the suspension is a little floppy. What I found was the positive leads on both coils had burned and disconnected midway between the terminals and the former.
I was wondering how much a recone kit would run for this sub? It's an older version, it has single flat stitched leads, domed dustcap, and no spacers between the motor and basket. If someone could get a hold of me with some info it would be appreciated. Thanks!