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Posts posted by islandpride684
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Nice...gonna cop me one of these when they become avail....
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If you set everything right with the DD1 then I wouldn't worry about the clip light on the remote....
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just make sure you have the dip switches in the right config on your vcm based on the type of batteries you are running...ie 12v, 14v/16v....and don't go over the their limits also....ie xs recommends not to exceed 14.9v on their 12v batts and make your adjustments with the system off and there is no load on the alt....
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Rockford Fosgate punch power DVCs...
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Here is a good read and it covers why companies do it...
http://www.nationalautosound.com/pointers-on-choosing-a-car-bass-amplifier-power-ratings
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I really hope you're trolling.
No way man, for real?
Listen to this guy, you will blow your amps and sub.Na man you'll be fine, wire that bitch down to 1 ohm and turn the gain all the way up, not recommended for competitions, but for daily, turn that shit to the max volume...
lol...cmon now, I was being sarcastic...I should have put it in quotations...
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Listen to this guy, you will blow your amps and sub.Na man you'll be fine, wire that bitch down to 1 ohm and turn the gain all the way up, not recommended for competitions, but for daily, turn that shit to the max volume...
No way man, for real?
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Na man you'll be fine, wire that bitch down to 1 ohm and turn the gain all the way up, not recommended for competitions, but for daily, turn that shit to the max volume...
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Minimum working impedance strapped/linked is 2 ohms, any lower than that will damage your driver...straight from the manual
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Didn't want to create another post so I'll add to this...
5 stars all the way, very fast shipping, excellent seller...
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He is just trying to get some attention based on what I've seen on his FB...dude is all about Jesus but yet post some BS like that...what a hypocrite...
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1.5ohm to low?
not recommended...if you plan on going below make sure your electrical can handle it....strapped @ 1.5/each amp will see .75...best bet is to get an amp that does 3.5K @ 1ohm/1800 @ 2ohm then you can guess what it does in between at 1.5ohms....
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What would the total RMS output be running the 2 1.2k's linked? And would it be safe to run it set up that way at 1.5ohm ( 2 dual 6ohm subs (JBL GTi's))?
2400 @ 2ohm strapped
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Sounds like your sub is bottoming out...
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Hit that search button if you want to find out about enclosures, a lot of topics about it on here and post in subwoofer/enclosure section to get more responses...
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Because of the hype from my co-workers, people on the Internet, listening to one of my co-workers SA8 (which sounded amazing I might add), and Brian from Sundown, I was hoping a deeper and louder bass than my previous subs. Especially considering the price I paid for them.
Truth to be told, I'm feeling a little discouraged at the moment for choosing these SD2s. I'm really hoping that I'm just being a drama queen and don't have these tuned right but, honestly I'm losing faith.
I bet you it will sound much better if you change your box...how are your fab skills...I would do ported...
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Update:
I swapped amps from the corolla with my truck.
Going from a GM-D8601 that pushed 800RMSx1 @ 1ohm stable to:
GM-D9601 that is pushing 1200RMSx1 @ 1ohm stable.
That made a little improvement but I still do not fee like the subs are producing what they could be. Any suggestions? Anyone?
Could my process of tuning be incorrect?
I am using the 40hz Shine test tone. It is being played from my phone via Bluetooth streaming. Before playing the test tone, set my H/U to volume 25 (full is 40 and setting to 30 just seems too loud for the speakers) I ensured that the crossover on the H/U is off, and the amp's LPF is turned all the way down to 40hz. From there, I set the gain accordingly. When adjusting the amps LPF 80hz to 100hz seems to make the subs respond the best. At the H/U side, I try to match as best as possible. It seems that 80hz with -18db sounds the best for these subs but their "loudness" lacks.
Is there a better way to go about this?
What kind of sound do you expect it to produce?
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Just adjust to how you want it to sound...someone else's preferences might not work for you...
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Are you comparing how it sounded when the pioneers where in the trunk to the SDs being under the seat?
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im on comp and got the same issue...
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Imagine for a second that you went to the local drag strip. You watched cars for years going in the 9s, 10s, 11s, and 12s. Then, someone says . . . "You know these cars are going faster here than at any other track . . . hmmm." They roll the track and determine that it really isn't 1,320 feet from the lights to the finish line . . . it's only 1,270 feet. That makes EVERY single time ever recorded at that track worthless. In addition, it really isn't possible to say with any certainty that one car is still a tenth faster than another because the car that was a tenth slower may have actually been able to make some (or all) of that up in the last 50 feet.
We, as car audio enthusiasts, should question methods that are questionable. Especially whey they defy the laws of physics.
in regards to this analogy, when it comes to the "drag strip", yes it would be true that then every car that ever raced there would be null, but only BECAUSE there are other tracks in which the distance from start to finish was actually different/all the same there. But when it comes to the car audio world, every car that has ever had to be clamped for USACI or dbdrag in order to compete, had to use something in order to clamp all these amps. And a lot of these classes require they are clamped at the time of the run. Every time i have ever been to a competition, they used a clamp test with a multimeter and a clamp, i have never seen an AD-1 at an officially sponsored event. so if every record ever set, on every track ever, was wrong, then technically they were all still judged on the same scale, so although the clamp test is incorrect in determining true RMS power output, i don't think its right to say all past accomplishment set by these competitors should be nullified or something to that degree, because all were... incorrectly... judged the same at least.
I just realized that this post had been revived a few times, and maybe there have been advances i have missed, but hopefully it still gets seen
Here you go:
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Skar Audio LP1000.1d - 1000 Watts for 129 Bucks? AD-1 Amp Test and Giveaway inside! Claim 3 spots! UPDATE - WINNER PAGE 195!
in SKAR AUDIO - (READ ONLY ARCHIVE)
Posted
SKAR AUDIO FTW 1000.1 CLAIMED