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Posts posted by CleanSierra
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Awesome grave dig on a 5+ year old thread. Resurrection at its finest!
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I can explain this but need to figure out how to via writing.
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You'd need a different bit. Even a Harbor Freight cheapie set would do the trick.
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It's easy to make that flush ring with the right bit.
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How are you doing your flush trim inner ring? I'm referring to the circle that the speaker sits flush in, not the actual cutout for the speaker. The outer diameter of the mid, that's the ring.
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I'll tell you this, the larger of the safe side you can go, the easier it will be to design an enclosure with proper port area. The smaller the enclosure, the longer the port must be to get the desired tune and proper port area typically.
Don't get up to 1 cube though, they don't like THAT much from what I've personally heard. .6-.75 per sub is plenty.
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Hook the damn thing up and see exactly what is wrong with it, power each coil alone and see if there is a problem.
I'm curious why there was suspicion in the first place to go through all this work. Most of us would have installed it, and THEN if it exhibited problems, uninstalled to investigate.
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Could you please, in English, tell us exactly what is wrong with the subwoofer you received?
This X10
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Bring em over here. I'll touch the shit out of them..
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What trunk you got?
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You can try Rage Gold or Rage Xtreme, both are made by Evercoat. They are usually $60+ per gallon. It's not even a gallon either, it's like .88 gallons. There are other companies that sell gold fillers, they just sand much easier. U-Pol Gold is Luke $22 per gallon here(again it's actually like .88 gallons), and it's a beautiful filler. It won't build up into big shapes because it's thin and runny and self-levels. The Z grip and normal Evercoat Lite is a great everyday filler.
I'd consider a mixing board that isn't cardboard as well. I use a solid flat piece of square aluminum and clean it right as the filler sets up. I've had that same mixing board for 20 years.
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Part of the problem is the crappy 3M Bondo. You'd spend less going to an auto body supply shop and buying an Evercoat Z grip filler or U-Pol Gold or something similar.
If you could find someone to show you how they mix filler and apply it, I think it would help your future projects greatly.
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I have a quick question about your body filler technique.
Are you cleaning your applicator/spreader before starting to apply the filler? It looks like your either using a jagged edge to apply the filler, OR you're still spreading after it's starting to set up.
Smooth, deliberate strokes is all you need to apply that stuff. Have you ever seen someone that does bodywork apply it in person?
I love the build btw, I can't believe this is the first time I've seen it.
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Great thread Tony.
I would like to have had time-lapsed pics of Juan as well for future reference.
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Oh Steve, I'm definitely not talking down on the tool. I've been happy with the results I've seen and there are a few local guys that have them and we clamp results often. I have not seen it ever give wonky results. I've only seen it break hearts with how inefficient some dude's boxes are.
My response, if taken negatively or sarcastic at all, was aimed at FasFocus and his response, not the tool.
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Not a lot of power. Strapped at 2ohm each amp gunna rise and not make a lot of power... You need to strap at 1ohm for then amps to make some power...
From my testing two CF 8ks at 1ohm EACH was same DB as 1 cf 8k at .5ohm because the damn rise. Why have double the money tied up into two amps when you can wire 1amp low and get same results
Edit just seen u have two lvl6 18s... A DC 7.5k on each woofer at 1ohm would hammer them things lol
But would the Level 6s get just as loud on a single 7.5K at half ohm?
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i have an AMM1 and have tested several amps. I have just chalked it up as a BS tool. I've tried different wire sizes, different subs and all results were horrible. I metered the Sony radio with the "built in amp" and it yielded 1 watt on a 4Ω speaker then I put a 2Ω JBL speaker and it yielded 1 watt. I metered a Soundstream 2k and it yielded 500 watts on 2 DC Level 4 D1 subs wired to 1Ω. I tried one sub wired down to .5Ω to account for any sort of rise and it yielded 300 watts. these are just the most disappointing results. There are very few AMM1 owners as a whole so it hard to get any sort of trouble shooting or support. Since I install for a shop I thought I'd use this heck out of this thing but I can't b/c it simply just doesn't do what it's suppose to do. just simply reading voltage is a failure unless you get the exact wires with the exact polarity correct when probing for your reading. if polarity is backwards on a normal DMM it'll just put a "-" to indicate the probes are backwards while the AMM1 just displays nothing so you don't even know it's backwards, you'd just assume it's the wrong wires.
I'd be interested in a D'Amore explanation on this. A $400 tool not doing what it was intended to do should be a concern.
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If my intuition is correct, he likely sent twice the RMS to the sub like a typical fanboy, because someone told him the sub would "laugh" at 1250W. He likely sent the nastiest, dirtiest 2500W a sub could ever get to to this particular X.
God Bless the Sundown Audio Only page on FB.
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its the age
would like to see a budget amp last 25 years and still play
Shit, 25 WEEKS would be impressive from a modern day budget amp
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The fact the amp is 25 years old, still KICKING, and putting up damn close to rated is impressive. Components wear out with age, so it's pretty cool that it's still breathing.
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My guess is 62X2 in Stereo. I think she'll do 148W at its best.
Fuck prizes, guessing is fun.
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Dual Alternator Setup from a customer...
in MechMan Alternators and 12v Accessories
Posted · Edited by CleanSierra
Typo
You won't find it Kenn, that will be a one off fabrication you're going to need someone to build for you. No companies like DC or Mechman are going to make a bracket. You'd also have to remove some engine accessory to run a triple.