hispls
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Posts posted by hispls
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hispls,
Are you talking about Alpha Damp Tiles? Those haven't been manufactured since the new owner took over in 2010, so that would be on ANT and his crazy experiment with selling "SPL Tiles", a line of product Ken never took over (Just tried to help Ant market them) when acquiring the business just like Damplifier Lite which we decided were not of high enough quality to continue producing under the new owner. We've seen people selling Alpha Damp SPL Tiles all over the Internet up to last year 2015 (which means they have sat around since being manufactured in July 2010) well past there shelf life of being considered a sellable product. All of our current day (within the last 6 years) butyl products are manufactured fresh and steadily, instead of sitting around on shelves for months/years. Most times boxes don't stay here longer then 2 months. Thank you for your feedback, we always appreciate hearing about any experience weither it be bad or good, there is no way to grow as a company if you can't accept problems that occur. And we pride our self in customer satisfaction, if you ever need to talk to us about a product issue hit us up ASAP please.
Damplifier Pro is pretty unmistakeable name and I got them not long after the industry first started doing the 80mil thickness IIRC. I could probably find the thread with enough digging but I've got a good 50 trades between 3 different boards and it was probably 5 years ago now.
Like I said, they were a throw-in with a trade to even out a value so as you say I don't know how long the other guy had them sitting or where and I never really bothered to complain to anybody since I didn't really care one way or another. They were really thick (the aluminum and the butyl) and heavy just didn't stay stuck to my roof and liftgate.
I always thought Ant was kind of a douche so I never bought anything he sold and quit being active on CACO when he took over and made it pay-per-view.
I restate, if that was the norm for your products I'm sure you wouldn't still be in business so I've chalked it up to user error. Perhaps it as too cold when I tried to put them on, I didn't clean off the metal properly, or just didn't put enough oomph behind rubbing them on. Whatever it is it's good to see you active on forums and I get the vibe that if I bought new product from you that you'd take care of something like this.
I definitely didn't want to cause trouble but it is interesting to note that it is best applied "fresh".
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I bought some premium brand deadener a few years back and that all failed and fell off. Sort of soured me on the really expensive stuff. That said, I've never even see peel n' seal though people have been trying it for ages now in the hopes of getting something for nothing.
Not all sound deadeners are created equal. Even some so called "premium brands" are only "butyl based" or "contain butyl", those terms are used to make customers think they are getting a quality butyl product, but are still most likely made in China without regulation and quality controls of the types of fillers they put inside their products. That is why you should always insist on a high quality American made butyl rubber product like Damplifier or Damplifier Pro which has the highest heat rating in the industry of 450 degrees. The reason ours withstands that heat is because it is not filled full of cheap fillers. Whatever brand you choose, make sure it is an American made butyl product.
Second Skin For The Win!!!LOL. Actually it was the Damplifier Pro SPL tiles that fell off of my roof. I'll give you the benefit of the doubt and chalk it up to user error ie. me improperly prepping the surface since I haven't heard any complaints of your stuff elsewhere. I think heat wasn't the issue since I'm pretty far north, but just not being sticky enough. I didn't mention the brand earlier because I didn't want people to get the wrong idea and I can't say for certain why they failed. I just picked up a stack of them in trade from a fella who had extras and didn't put much thought or effort into any of it... it was more of "Oh Ok I've got these now what can I do with them real quick" kind of thing.
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I bought some premium brand deadener a few years back and that all failed and fell off. Sort of soured me on the really expensive stuff. That said, I've never even see peel n' seal though people have been trying it for ages now in the hopes of getting something for nothing.
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Are you SURE there's nothing wrong with your vehicle that killed the battery so quickly? I'd be taking a look at that first and foremost.
Or go to the parts store and buy one and leave it sit for 3 weeks and see what happens. The kid making minimum wage behind the counter of the parts store won't give you any trouble honoring warranty on a 3 week old battery regardless of what you did to it.
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I dont care to much about less efficient.to a certain point .im wana know if playing a amp at 1 ohm full volume is the same as playing the amp at .5 ohm at half volume.not the same but as in its still safe and wont ruin my gear
Inefficient = more heat. When you halve impedance you quadrouple the heat and stress on your semiconductors. You can do whatever rituals you like but .5 ohm simply is very hard on things, and what you gain likely will be barely audible.
I would suggest if that if you would be upset by a 400$ amp repair and being without it for a month or two, avoid .5.
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You're a little more than 100 posts away and people here know of you. I think you should sell it on the forums that you are a member of.
I don't think you get it. It's not MY stuff. It used to belong to a guy who attended a lot of local shows and now it belongs to his widow.
I can read. I know it's not yours but you are the one who is known around here and other forums. Unless the party you are speaking of is a contributor in the forums, you are gonna be more trusted. This one is national, all the other ones I'm in are local. https://www.facebook.com/groups/TheBassMart/
Thanks for the link!
So as an update looking over what was there it wasn't that much. Apparently he was doing a little wheeling and dealing (I was kind of expecting to see every piece of gear he ever turned up at a show with) so there's not too much big stuff. The best of the lot so far is stuff that won't ship well (18" LV6 and a couple 110AH batteries). The RF Symetry, Critical Mass and Focal stuff will likely do better on DIYMA anyway. Once his family gets what's left of his car back from the state police there will be a big amp and a DD-Z in there. Hopefully it all still functions.
His wife said that he did have a CACO account so she's going to try to just use that herself or sign up there, lastly, I think there's enough small stuff that she can build up some refs just selling wires, distro blocks, etc. He did a bit of installing on Craigslist so there's a lot of odds and ends as far as install accessories plus some nice 1-of speakers and other small ticket items for ref count building.
Anyway, thanks for the help, guys.
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You're a little more than 100 posts away and people here know of you. I think you should sell it on the forums that you are a member of.
I don't think you get it. It's not MY stuff. It used to belong to a guy who attended a lot of local shows and now it belongs to his widow.
If you are willing to stick your neck out for them and handle the transactions online etc then it's much easier to sell as an established part. As long as you have the ability to get hands on with the gear and ship if something starts to go sideways I have no issue in this case. They aren't forum members and it's a dire circumstance.
His family is really good people and if buyers pay with paypal they're covered. Like I said, myself and others in this region will vouch for them and that the gear exists and is legit. My part will be just to test stuff, tell the family what it all is, what's a fair price, and get them signed up to forums where it'll sell.
If they were a little closer I'd personally handle all the gear and shipping and whatever and I don't know if I really want to store it all here and broker it like that. If they can't move it we may come to that. I am plenty established on CACO, DIYMA, and CA.com for selling.
So does a "premium" account here have privileges to sell right away? This guy's family definitely isn't interested in joining forums and participating to bump up a post count until they can sell, just trying to clear out his old stuff that they'll never use.
I shall also suggest Facebook audio group, can anybody link which is best/legit?
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OK, long story short, one of the guys in our local competition scene died in a rollover on the way home from a show this summer. His widow has a pile of very high end audio equipment. Not sure what he actually had, but I've seen him show up to shows with 8K and bigger amps, RE XXX, DC LV6, DD-Z, etc. etc. So that's the sort of gear he'd have kicking around.
Now obviously this stuff isn't going to sell on Craigslist and his surviving family doesn't have an established eBay account so we're looking to get this stuff posted on forums.
I'm going to go over there today and help them catalog what's there, test things, and try to get them set up with accounts on some audio forums. There's plenty of guys in the area that'll vouch for this guy's family so it's not just my say-so (though I have plenty of trade/buy/sell refs online).
Looking for input/advice on how to best get this stuff into good homes. Should I just post it as my own or have the family open a paid account here and on CACO or whatever and deal with it themselves?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
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Implying that more batteries makes .5 ohm less strenuous on semiconductors.
Really I always say if you need to come on here and ask, you have no business running any equipment outside of manufacturer specifications, and if you can't afford to break that amp you definitely shouldn't think about it.
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RF went to shit for a long time after that generation of Punch amp. Those and the original ones were monsters though.
I'm surprised that the RF pulled ahead so much at 1 ohm though. PG used to really tout their amps' abilities to drive low impedance.
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Great video. I'm really happy with the results as well.
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If you have to post this thread you have no business using these beyond the manufacturer recommendations. The "right box" isn't going to make a 2.5" coil hold 2000W worth of heat, nor is what brand of amp you use to make that power.
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I wouldn't click on facebook for a free level 6. Good luck to all though. If you're going to participate in that fuckery you might as well try to win something out of it.
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OK, here's a tip, the developers of these games rush them to market so that they can cash in for Christmas. The game is likely incomplete and buggy. Fixes may or may not come along over the next year.
Really these days you have to realize if you're buying a video game in the first few months after it's released you're basically paying 70$ to test the beta version.
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Makes me wonder if people in 15 years will be looking for this basket.
My guess is that will depend on how many motors are ever made that need that much clearance, and whether 12" spiders and other proprietary parts will still be available at such a date. Of course you must realize that this is going to be a very niche market thing, that lion's share of the overall car audio market would think SA series is overkill.... I'll be most interested to see if the extreme segment of the market will actually be willing to shell out the money to pay for all of the materials, R&D, AND the extra cost of every part involved with an actual working unit that's taking advantage of the limits of that size frame..... if not, he can chalk it up to advertizing expense and have just a super Billy-bad-ass sub just for the sake of saying they have a super bad ass sub to get people talking about the brand.
The popularity of the 12 spoke and Ti style frames is largely because they're so popular. Essentially they have become de-facto standardized among many companies. So really if this works out, in 15 years you won't need to "look for" this frame, everybody will be copying it.
Props to Jacob for pushing the envelope with designs though.
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I think I left it at zero, so if I drop it a bit I'll be okay?
somehow, i doubt you own or have used a DD-1. If for some reason i am wrong, and usually i am not, than you probably did not do it right. "ummm i left it at zero"...LOL what? Anyone that uses 0db tracks at the amplifier level shouldn't have any problem with overpowering their subwoofers if they are properly matched (in specs) to the amp they are hooked up to. Even though i don't believe you know what i am talking about, i just want to point that out in case somehow i am wrong. But i doubt it.
just curious steve as i don't own a DD-1 yet. (hopefully getting some money soon) if i'm thinking about this correctly 0db on the DD-1 would be less strain, for lack of a better word, than say -3 or -5 db? as in with the -3db you would actually be turning the gain up more as to account for the lower audio signal? is this correct? Im sure it says it in the manual but i am just wondering if i'm thinking of this the right way?
Thanks
0dB (the way Steve explained... which assumes your equipment is correctly matched and gives you honest power ratings) should make things retard proof. -3 or -5 (or more) would leave you enough volume knob for tracks with lower record levels and you'd be ultimately relying on your senses to tell you when you're over-driving things. At the end of the day, you can either make it retard proof and leave potentially 50-75% of your power on the table, or just rely on the ear-o-meter to tell you when you're at limits.
OP definitely did not set gains with DD1 and 0dB tones..
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What? Please explain how that works.Even if set with a dd1 you can still clip if your playing song below tuning. Say your tuned to 35hz...play a song is the 20s coils will still heat up
Was in a hurry and worded it wrong...should have said subsonic filter
not below box tune but below the tune u have ur amp set at
So playing below a point that's attenuated by the crossover will create clipping? Really think about this one.
Clipping is caused by trying to make the amp produce more power than it can. It is not dependent on frequency and crossovers.
Does anybody know if DC uses a 2 layer coil in these? Any 3" 4 layer coil should be nearly impossible to burn up with a 500W amp. Either DC is using absolute bottom of the barrel Chinese coils or something else is wrong here.... I really suspect the latter.
** We use American Made Coils - Rusty **
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Even if set with a dd1 you can still clip if your playing song below tuning. Say your tuned to 35hz...play a song is the 20s coils will still heat up
What? Please explain how that works.
tune your amp for what u like to play so if u like low notes tune ur amp a little lower but still, keep in mind the specs on ur subs
I'm NOT OP, I don't need advice on pre-amp settings, but I would like an explanation of how an amp begins to clip if you play below box tuning.
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Even if set with a dd1 you can still clip if your playing song below tuning. Say your tuned to 35hz...play a song is the 20s coils will still heat up
What? Please explain how that works.
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For fuck's sake if you're going to shoot someone at least have the smarts to dispose of the murder weapon. Damn, anyone that stupid deserves the electric chair.
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Ideally the question should be: Please order from 1 to 4 with 1 being the most important what your priorities are when designing your audio system.
I think all of us want some of all categories so the only question is which is most and least important. Of course if you look around at some of the builds from guys who seem to have unlimited funds, time, and ability, some folks don't need to compromise at all.
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I bet if you got up off your ass and actually went and talk to the black community you would find out that Ben Carson is more respected than Al Sharpton. All you rather do is keep the hate going. You found like 2 facts to support your argument and now anything else won't matter in your mind. The funniest parts are the hissy fits you have too.
Interestingly enough Many years ago I asked a friend "WTF is with guys like Al and Jesse?". He just laughed and told me that nobody really takes them seriously. Media has an agenda and NONE of them can be trusted. There's a reason that certain people can always seem to get a camera pointed at them when they flap their lips, and it isn't necessarily that they represent a lot of other people, only that someone would like us to think that were the case.
I knew in my gut that the Faux news "source" was bullshit on the broken eye socket story. Most of what the media reports is bullshit and anything with an "un-named source" bullshit is a 99.9% certainty. A source that isn't named is about as credible to me as the testimony of the thug's accomplice in the strong-arm robbery we see on the video.
Which begs the question, why is certain information published and other information withheld? Could it be that someone has an agenda to stir the pot and agitate the situation even more? To what end? I've done some contemplating on the matter and none of the conclusions I come up with are very good. About the least nefarious thing I can think of is that the media simply gets more attention the longer chaos and mayhem continues.
Either way we are all being manipulated here and I assure you, the people doing it couldn't give a shit less about anything or anyone outside of their own agenda and self interest.
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Thanks, fellas. Wasn't really looking to sell anything, more to be able to make offers on things I see come up. Saves me spending money on toys I don't really need anyway.
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I've been a registered member for a while now, have a fair post count. I have close to 50 refs on other audio sites, and close to 30,000 on eBay. Can a mod let me know what I need to do or give me permission to participate on FS threads?
Second Skin For The Win!!!
Peel and seal was the stupidest f**king thing I've ever done
in Second Skin Sound Deadening and Automotive Insulation!
Posted · Edited by hispls
Those rectangular critters in the center of that picture definitely look like what failed me. Aluminum felt super thick and perhaps just ANT lumping it in with our name made the fella I bought it from represent it as yours. Mystery solved I guess.
The takeaway here is to buy real deadener brand new from the manufacturer or authorized vendor or you roll the dice on results.