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Posts posted by Kyblack76

  1. On 9/10/2023 at 9:23 AM, SnowDrifter said:


    Throw a steak in there with a couple ball bearings. Tenderizer

    I think this rig (such a rad OG audio rig) would be just fine making us all a fine fine breakfast, or din din. ...  Such a iconic rig.  Feel lucky i was able to get there and lick the windows, tho, i had a hard on for the lexus and the honda. The honda is when i even found Steve 4700 years ago lol..... Ping pong was lit also. Oh, and i did rub a few OG Fi/RE drivers, and a few OG amps he had in the back.  May, or may no have rubbed a bit of gear in a not so cool manner. .....   Hope you are doin well bud.

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  2. 22 hours ago, Banditnib said:

    I used a 0db 40hz tone. I didn’t check the headunit because I’m running the lc2i. I don’t think I’m dropping voltage, but I still haven’t looked. I have a lot of power so I figured it wouldn’t be a factor. The sine waves are still wavy when I set it, it doesn’t go flat when I set it. Although, these subs are pretty much brand spanking new, only been playing them for 8-9 days. I only haven’t checked yet because I’ve been busy, plan on messing with it this weekend.  I definitely need to bc they smell. It’s honestly not that bad or noticeable right now plus my amp and subs barely get that warm. It’s 80-90° where I’m at right now so I figure they’d be warm to some degree. Would you recommend using a -5 db test tone instead or 0db?

    0db eh?  0db is as clean as you can get (provided your tone is clean in the first place, -5 would be "louder/more overlap or gain")

          Then that should be clean as all get out. (for what i played, i loved -7.5, which is "louder/more "gain" ) 

      So, smell, is it a sweet, like sugar smell? Im not familiar with your drivers, tho, i know DB makes nice nice drivers. Seems like you have a scope, as you mention your waves are wavy, which, i dont really get. What you want to avoid on a scope, is a square line.  To me, if they arent hot (the drivers) , i think your smelling the coil/former glue cooking off. I know when i get my sp4s a hundred years ago, a few songs in, .. laying into it, id get this sweet/sugar smell.  Long story short, i ran those things hard (those here that know me, know) and competed with the for around 5 seasons. Never ever had a coil issue. Did loose a spider on two after 4 plus years of hammering the fuck out of them. But no thermal issue. And i was tripping day one when i powered them up. 

    If your cone is decently cool, id suspect your fine. Run em... and run em how you want to.  I think you are fine, and come back in a few weeks after beating on them. Ill bet the smell, damn near goes away. 

  3. No idea why you are setting any xover on the HU... you have a dsp. Use the dsp you paid that much money for, to cut, pass band everything. Run the HU open on everything, get in the dsp soft ware, and use the cut offs and slopes.....And turn everything on the head unit to off, and use the dsp you bought.  Why you are adjusting freq bands, on the HU when you have a decent dsp, is..... well, .... odd.   And when you are "looking for clipping" what are you playing? A song? or?  And you have the "bass" on the hu all the way down? Why are you adjusting anything on the HU, if you have a full blown dsp?

    EDIT- have you even gotten into the dsp software yet? Why are you using the HU to do the job of that money brick you bought? Lets start there first. Show a pic of the DSP software, not the head unit. (and set the hu all to flat, then, use the dsp you paid for)


  4. Which overlap did you use? ?????  0db, -3.5, -5, -10,-20 ???? And you checked if your clean at the HU, and then at the amplifiers? Through and through?  

    If the smell is sweet ,. it could be the glue on the coil,....












    or, your baking your coils........  guess well see in time.  And, Joe is correct, those boards are pretty dirty to begin with.  Can you show a picture of the scope while running the tone (and at what overlap)


    Edit- and i dont know why dropping to 12.4 would cause any sort of clipping,.. if set up right.  Hell id set the dd1, at -7.5db over lap, with the car off. 

    But thats just me. 

  5. This case blows for air flow, ... add in temps being 3 digits for 6 weeks straight here, and, why not get a pump, cpu and gpu block,.. chuck a rad or 2 in there, and shove some water through things. 


    Heat killer cpu block, EK gpu block, 360mm rad, 280mm rad, BEquiet silent wing pro fans, aquasuite quadro controller/software ( i dig this thing) , EK d5 pump,res, fittings,tubing.  Just a simple gaming rig, nothing serious. 

    HyteY60 case/7800x3d/7900xtx/DDR5-6400 CL30/Asus Strix x670e-e/Seasonic 1000 prime titanium

    Samsung g7 32" 240hz/Samsung g7 27" 240hz/ROG Azoth keys


    First go with a loop,... and, I think ill add a loop to my other rig.  I have a flow sensor, and some other ish, ready to go in, when I get bored enough to stick it all in. Runs like a top. 



    unnamed (24).jpg


  6. Didnt know you had a fuse up front, thought this was it. Then run the fused front line to the fuse holder you have, on the common side (the bridged side)  Run it as close as you can to the

    hot of the rear battery. One single side to the battery, and one to the amp, and your done.  If your into fusing every and all, then remember your fusing the wire. If you get it as close to the hot/positive as possible, youll be fine. Make sense? Both batts will be covered front to rear. The spit blocks will cover the rear battery, and wire forward, and the amplifier wire out.  You can also use 2 different fuse ratings for the main line, and the amplifier line, as well as using both battery amps, and your alt amps from the front. Think of it as just fusing for the wired used. 


    EDIT- do this.. draw it out on a piece of paper, and send a pic. ;) It helps. 

  7. The run front to rear, should be fused as close to the front bat as possible. The run goes back back to the rear battery, and fuse that, as close to the positive post as possible. Then,   Come off that battery, ( with the hot) with a fuse as close to the bat as you can get it to the amp. You bought the wrong set up, for what you want to do. 


    Edit- even if you did find and get just two singles, youd be not protected. If you are wicked into that "fuse everything" thing.......    

  8. On 4/27/2023 at 3:55 PM, Wifebtr said:

    Just to add a perspective, I have a 3k amplifier that has a 60amp fuse. I'm wired to 1ohm on 2 12s.  It's been about 2 years of me jamming to music and the fuse hasn't popped.

    I think people often overestimate how much current amplifiers draw on music.

    Yep.... you can usually HALF the max draw, and still be under, on music. 

  9. On 4/16/2023 at 8:25 AM, SnowDrifter said:

    Good lord

    Dude... That's like.... Double what I get. And I'm bottlenecked by my 5950x.

    Hot damn dude

    That is still a killer cpu bruh, but these stacked vcache cpu's, FOR GAMING (not dick for production,... which i do zero of) are the shit. Toss a 5800x3d in there, again, if all you do is game, look at your bank account here and there, and pRon. If you need the production,.... hang with that beast you have, or buy another mother  board, and ill sale/give you this 7950x cheap bro. No bullshit. 

  10. Awesome boss. I just got back into the PC world myself, after having one in 2003 LOL.  Nice gear. I was also lucky to be the first in my county to get Fiber available.  Just a 1000/1000 up and down here. The next bump was just a bit much for my needs (Hell my board only does 2.5g).  And its been the BEST internet I've ever had. I've had business lines from comcast and the like, that was 5 times more, and 10 times shittier than this Utopia fiber. Also, it has NEVER ever went out. Ever. They had a posted outage maybe a year ago, but it didnt even affect me (the time of night they did their maintenance. Ive also LOVED getting back into the pc world. All i do is game, look at my bills/bank shit and porn. But, its vasty different than what I've known. Shit works. Works great now, vs my experience 2 decades ago.   



    HYTE Y60 case/ROG Strix E670E-e mobo/7950x/7900xtx/Seasonic Titanium 1000w/GSkill  CL30 DDR5-6000 with buildzoids timings/2tb WD ssd/2tb samson980 pro ssd/cheap ass 2tb hard drive/Artic 360/ Lian Lan fans that both need to get in. Been lazy. Samsung g7 27" and 32" 240hz. ROG (im a huge ROG nut hugger) Azoth keyboard, SteelSeries Artic pro's (wired), a few SCUF controllers cuz i just run into walls on the keys.  And its been a riot. 

    Happy gaming homie. Ill look for you on Twitch. I think i was your very first subscriber lol.  Cheers mate. 




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  11. On 1/27/2023 at 1:55 AM, audiofanaticz said:

    Unless your running bottom of the barrel Hertz speakers you're going to have a tough time finding much better, and even if they are the lowest end Hertz and you have that amp bridged to 2 channels you're only getting 250 watts per channel to run the 3way component systems.

    Considering you have 2 channels of amp essentially since the 5 channel amp is bridged that would mean you're using the passive crossover networks that came with them.

    So ditching the passive crossovers and running the speakers active would be a huge increase over control but you would need 6 channels of amplification and you would need an amp that allows you to bandpass the channels (or run a DSP) because that Arc amp doesn't support bandpass on the crossover filters. You can most likely give them more power as well.

    Another thing that can improve the sound even more is treating the door with sound deadener. 

    Depending on the location of all the speakers possibly changing where the mid and tweet are located can improve the imaging as well as how loud it appears.


    Really hard to say though since you didn't give much info besides the amp and brand of speakers and the fact that they are 3-way and didn't include the model or where they are located.


    What I can say though is just buying another set of speakers and putting them in the same location using the same amp is just going to be throwing money out the window because you're not really going to gain any output/volume by doing that unless you use some cheaper speakers with a cheaper lower wattage handling and you over drive them which will lead to failure and they will most likely sound worse as well.

    Oh and also any Pro Audio speaker from any manufacture is not going to come any where near close to a good sounding component system. So unless you want no midbass and harsh tweeters stay away from said style of speakers such as the DS18 and DeafBonce and bullet tweeters like those mentioned above.



    Fuuuuuuuuuucking THIS ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^




  12. Pro audio is shit. I guess unless you dont know any better.


    You can buy separate components, and end up with much better gear. But up to you. Also, controlling them all along with placement is key. You running a dsp? or some passive shit? 


    EDIT- also, the gear you have now, seems pretty good. I like the hertz i run in the dash (part of my 3 way set i put together with scan speek tweets and satori mids) That said, how are you controlling them all separately? Does that amplifier you have ,  have the ability to pass band channels and such? Im not familiar with it. 

  13. On 1/16/2023 at 2:58 PM, stingray72 said:

    This is for spl purposes and its going in a 2019 nissan versa sv. So far im looking at an american bass godfather 15.


    Tones/Burps? or musical spl competitions ?  If your playing one tone, for max spl in the lanes, get with Jacob at sundown and have him build you a stiff (custom spider pack, depending on the info you give him) as fuck, smaller voice coil driver (efficient) that can take a dick load of power for a instant.

    For musical, hell, do the same. Talk to some dudes at sundown, or the Fi build house, and have them get you what you want, for what you want to do/need. 

    The driver you mentioned, ive never heard of, or seen, but, im sure its a common 4" voice coil driver that will suite you fine. 

    If you just wanna bang in the lanes and dick off, get any mid level driver from anyone and get after it. Most of your gains will be from the enclosure and vehicle tweaks.  Good luck. 

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