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Kyblack76

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Posts posted by Kyblack76

  5. Amp clips at Dynamic Kicks but not Lower frequencies

    in Amplifiers

    Posted

    I would set clipping with knob at full. But do you. 

    You could tweak your pass band, so your subs arent playing a "dynamic kick" but the low sub drum like they should, and your door/mids handle the upper "kick".  So, lower your low pass. 

    Or you could retune with -7.5, or -5 ...... aka turn it down, EQ that out, if you have the ability (dsp and what not).   Turning it down, is no fun, so you could not worry about a slight clip here and there, and let it eat. And if it sounds good to you, roll with it. Im sure it will be fine.          Or it could unwind a coil. But im think youd be fine.  On long long plays, if you smell something, youll know. 

    Up to you. 

     

    Box (if it is in fact) tuned at 30, ......... turn that low pass down mate. Or, i would.  (low pass is at 60 here, i like my subs to play low frequencys, not try and make up for lacking mids) but, do you. Then you wont see it clip, but will lose some band/frequency you need to pick up with other drivers.   Its all up to you. 

  6. Looking for two budget. Powerful 15s that will be capable of 1ohm

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted · Edited by Kyblack76

    Also,. google impedance (not box/enclosure) rise.  Google, read, and take some of that in.  I dont know if your going strickly for numbers in the lane, at one frequency, or if your want a daily ground pounder (sound like you want a ground pounder system) but, just looking at "this amplifier does this number at this load" is pretty useless in a daily driven audio rig. That said, it will help explain why your not seeing even remotely close to the power you think you are, or should be. Not to mention, that board/maker, most likely embellished the numbers. I do wish you the best of luck. Hell, just coming in and asking questions, and wanting to know and learn, ... you are already well ahead of most, and the curve. Cheers and best of luck. 

     

    edit- also, remember, if your are looking for "large-ish" numbers. It takes power, to make power. No board on the planet can "make"  power on its own. 

    Also,.. please. Please be very very carful, of who you are taking info in from please.  There is a TON of nonsense, and welp, straight bullshit out there. Do your own reading and learning mate. Sure take others info in, but be very very carful on what is out there. 

  7. Anyone else score a D'Amore Eng. clean D amplifier ??? AND, ANOTHER ONE 3-26-21

    in D'Amore Engineering - High Quality Car Audio Installation Tools & Accessories

    Posted

    Just a quick bump. In case anyone's missing the vids Tony D is dropping lately. There is more than just this one. But i really like how he went in the weeds on this one. Cheers all. 

     

    (edit- also, im running the 400.4 and 1500.1 in my rig, have been for a long while now. Love these boards, and im not nice to them at all)

     

     

     

  11. Looking for two budget. Powerful 15s that will be capable of 1ohm

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted · Edited by Kyblack76

    On 1/15/2024 at 1:01 AM, jgi420 said:

    Well I mean on almost any enclosure. There's a chance that it will leak air the last MDF enclosure I had well the last three of them the screws all came loose from the subs. I had to turn them facing upward because they wanted to fall out of the box after a short period of time and I pre-drilled pilot holes. Even before I installed the subs I even had to move them around to three different places in almost every box I had.

     

    So there is a general concern that even a Birchwood cabinet can still rattle loose or leak air If you put too much power through it. 

     

    Either way, I'm not running the full amount of RMS the speakers can handle.

     

    And the subwoofer amp only has an 80 amp fuse and it has not blown yet I thought that a 1500 watt amp would draw at least 85 amps so I find that a little odd.

     

     

    Cool. None of my enclosures even have screws. Never had a "leak" or anything break apart. Odd. 

    80 amp, and not blowing the fuse. You are no where near, peak power. Not even half. Sooooo, your good. No breaking shit,.. from power anyway. 

    Edit- maybe just a really poorly built enclosure.  I've never, in my decades of audio, had the privilege of seeing anyone "blow" their box apart,, unless it was a pile of wood just hucked together, or a prefab. Even then, it wasnt from "power".  But good luck to your goal mate. 

    • Thanks (+1 Rep) 1

  16. First rip at a full water loop..... be gentle, still learning.

    in Computer Talk - News, technology, advice

    Posted · Edited by Kyblack76

    On 12/9/2023 at 7:49 PM, ehall8702 said:

    And yes I use this case ALOT, love the Corsair airflow 5000d. Very versatile and easy cable management 

    The 5000d is a great case, and has been for a long time. This Hyte y60 is a turd. I dont care for it at all. Even with water, the air flow is shyte. Looking at a lian li case. Not sure if ill do another build, or what. But, i hate this hyte case, and would highly recommend to anyone to pass on it. 

     

    EDIT- and to each their own, but i think the black soft tubing looks fucking rad. To each their own.  Nice work also,... im trying to learn as much as i can. Shits changed SOOOoooo much from my last desktop i had, in 2002 LOL....  Yes, 2002 was my last home desktop. 

     

  17. First rip at a full water loop..... be gentle, still learning.

    in Computer Talk - News, technology, advice

    Posted

    Ditched the EK revisor, and wanted to go manifold/pump combo. I originally bought the HYTE one, from HYTE. Meh,.... speaking to water peeps that know better, i found a guy. He does several manifold/pump combos for certain cases. (also, this hyte case is a turd, dont get it,.. get one from Lian Li or someone else. This case sucks for everything imho) Radikult-custom.  His holds more fluid, looks better, mounts the d5 pump better, and, is just... well better. Went for it, and had it all in,out, and done in a couple hours. Also, i LOVE everything ive gotten from aquacomputer. Using their "hub" and software to control everything from the pumps, fans, and rgb. Great great shit. Temps down further, scores/benchmarks up. Pretty legit and fun to fuck with. Cheers all, and happy gaming. 

    hyte manifold 1.jpg

    hyte manifold 2.jpg

    IMG-2334 (1).jpg

    hyte manifold 3.jpg

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  18. Mechman not charging at idle

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    On 10/24/2023 at 9:10 PM, asilayinruins said:

    So I've been noticing that when my rpms go down to 500 the alternator seems to not be turning on. I have the smallest pulley that mechman has on its 370amp alts.  This wouldn't happen to be from one of the fuses im tapping off from, not putting out 12v to turn on the alt when the rpms are at 500? No matter if my rpms are at 500, aren't the fuses, such as ECU or cigarette lighter, suppose to still put out voltage? 

    Is the alt still getting a turn on signal at low rpm, it's just that the alt isn't outputting any charge at a low idle? 

    All alts have a "turn on" rpm.  Im a bit lost on you "tapping" a wire from anything. Even then, that shouldnt matter. The alt, has a turn on rpm.  The simple connector should have you not tapping into anything, but, i dont know your rig, build, or that alt. I would call mechman. They are awesome over there. 

  19. Taramps EQ Bass: PCB & Components

    in Head Units-Processors and Eq's

    Posted

    On 10/25/2023 at 12:24 AM, ChevyBoy95 said:

    Yea, just got busy.

     

    Two kids, got married, etc. Life happened. But ive still got the truck and the 4 15's with the 12k's. Just doesnt see much road time.

    Lulz... it happens mate, trust me lol. Good to see you around again. Your builds where always the shit. Hope you are doing well, struggles sure, but pounding through em. Stay gold mate. 

  24. Subs smell

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    22 hours ago, Banditnib said:

    I used a 0db 40hz tone. I didn’t check the headunit because I’m running the lc2i. I don’t think I’m dropping voltage, but I still haven’t looked. I have a lot of power so I figured it wouldn’t be a factor. The sine waves are still wavy when I set it, it doesn’t go flat when I set it. Although, these subs are pretty much brand spanking new, only been playing them for 8-9 days. I only haven’t checked yet because I’ve been busy, plan on messing with it this weekend.  I definitely need to bc they smell. It’s honestly not that bad or noticeable right now plus my amp and subs barely get that warm. It’s 80-90° where I’m at right now so I figure they’d be warm to some degree. Would you recommend using a -5 db test tone instead or 0db?

    0db eh?  0db is as clean as you can get (provided your tone is clean in the first place, -5 would be "louder/more overlap or gain")

          Then that should be clean as all get out. (for what i played, i loved -7.5, which is "louder/more "gain" ) 

      So, smell, is it a sweet, like sugar smell? Im not familiar with your drivers, tho, i know DB makes nice nice drivers. Seems like you have a scope, as you mention your waves are wavy, which, i dont really get. What you want to avoid on a scope, is a square line.  To me, if they arent hot (the drivers) , i think your smelling the coil/former glue cooking off. I know when i get my sp4s a hundred years ago, a few songs in, .. laying into it, id get this sweet/sugar smell.  Long story short, i ran those things hard (those here that know me, know) and competed with the for around 5 seasons. Never ever had a coil issue. Did loose a spider on two after 4 plus years of hammering the fuck out of them. But no thermal issue. And i was tripping day one when i powered them up. 

    If your cone is decently cool, id suspect your fine. Run em... and run em how you want to.  I think you are fine, and come back in a few weeks after beating on them. Ill bet the smell, damn near goes away. 

  25. Newbie dm810 owner

    in AudioControl

    Posted · Edited by Kyblack76

    No idea why you are setting any xover on the HU... you have a dsp. Use the dsp you paid that much money for, to cut, pass band everything. Run the HU open on everything, get in the dsp soft ware, and use the cut offs and slopes.....And turn everything on the head unit to off, and use the dsp you bought.  Why you are adjusting freq bands, on the HU when you have a decent dsp, is..... well, .... odd.   And when you are "looking for clipping" what are you playing? A song? or?  And you have the "bass" on the hu all the way down? Why are you adjusting anything on the HU, if you have a full blown dsp?

    EDIT- have you even gotten into the dsp software yet? Why are you using the HU to do the job of that money brick you bought? Lets start there first. Show a pic of the DSP software, not the head unit. (and set the hu all to flat, then, use the dsp you paid for)

     

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