Jump to content

Kyblack76

SMD Silver Member
  • Posts

    24552
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    224

Posts posted by Kyblack76

  1. Also,. google impedance (not box/enclosure) rise.  Google, read, and take some of that in.  I dont know if your going strickly for numbers in the lane, at one frequency, or if your want a daily ground pounder (sound like you want a ground pounder system) but, just looking at "this amplifier does this number at this load" is pretty useless in a daily driven audio rig. That said, it will help explain why your not seeing even remotely close to the power you think you are, or should be. Not to mention, that board/maker, most likely embellished the numbers. I do wish you the best of luck. Hell, just coming in and asking questions, and wanting to know and learn, ... you are already well ahead of most, and the curve. Cheers and best of luck. 

     

    edit- also, remember, if your are looking for "large-ish" numbers. It takes power, to make power. No board on the planet can "make"  power on its own. 

    Also,.. please. Please be very very carful, of who you are taking info in from please.  There is a TON of nonsense, and welp, straight bullshit out there. Do your own reading and learning mate. Sure take others info in, but be very very carful on what is out there. 

  2. Just a quick bump. In case anyone's missing the vids Tony D is dropping lately. There is more than just this one. But i really like how he went in the weeds on this one. Cheers all. 

     

    (edit- also, im running the 400.4 and 1500.1 in my rig, have been for a long while now. Love these boards, and im not nice to them at all)

     

     

     

  3. On 1/15/2024 at 1:01 AM, jgi420 said:

    Well I mean on almost any enclosure. There's a chance that it will leak air the last MDF enclosure I had well the last three of them the screws all came loose from the subs. I had to turn them facing upward because they wanted to fall out of the box after a short period of time and I pre-drilled pilot holes. Even before I installed the subs I even had to move them around to three different places in almost every box I had.

     

    So there is a general concern that even a Birchwood cabinet can still rattle loose or leak air If you put too much power through it. 

     

    Either way, I'm not running the full amount of RMS the speakers can handle.

     

    And the subwoofer amp only has an 80 amp fuse and it has not blown yet I thought that a 1500 watt amp would draw at least 85 amps so I find that a little odd.

     

     

    Cool. None of my enclosures even have screws. Never had a "leak" or anything break apart. Odd. 

    80 amp, and not blowing the fuse. You are no where near, peak power. Not even half. Sooooo, your good. No breaking shit,.. from power anyway. 

    Edit- maybe just a really poorly built enclosure.  I've never, in my decades of audio, had the privilege of seeing anyone "blow" their box apart,, unless it was a pile of wood just hucked together, or a prefab. Even then, it wasnt from "power".  But good luck to your goal mate. 

    • Thanks (+1 Rep) 1
  4. On 12/9/2023 at 7:49 PM, ehall8702 said:

    And yes I use this case ALOT, love the Corsair airflow 5000d. Very versatile and easy cable management 

    The 5000d is a great case, and has been for a long time. This Hyte y60 is a turd. I dont care for it at all. Even with water, the air flow is shyte. Looking at a lian li case. Not sure if ill do another build, or what. But, i hate this hyte case, and would highly recommend to anyone to pass on it. 

     

    EDIT- and to each their own, but i think the black soft tubing looks fucking rad. To each their own.  Nice work also,... im trying to learn as much as i can. Shits changed SOOOoooo much from my last desktop i had, in 2002 LOL....  Yes, 2002 was my last home desktop. 

     

  5. Ditched the EK revisor, and wanted to go manifold/pump combo. I originally bought the HYTE one, from HYTE. Meh,.... speaking to water peeps that know better, i found a guy. He does several manifold/pump combos for certain cases. (also, this hyte case is a turd, dont get it,.. get one from Lian Li or someone else. This case sucks for everything imho) Radikult-custom.  His holds more fluid, looks better, mounts the d5 pump better, and, is just... well better. Went for it, and had it all in,out, and done in a couple hours. Also, i LOVE everything ive gotten from aquacomputer. Using their "hub" and software to control everything from the pumps, fans, and rgb. Great great shit. Temps down further, scores/benchmarks up. Pretty legit and fun to fuck with. Cheers all, and happy gaming. 

    hyte manifold 1.jpg

    hyte manifold 2.jpg

    IMG-2334 (1).jpg

    hyte manifold 3.jpg

    unnamed (4).jpg

  6. On 10/24/2023 at 9:10 PM, asilayinruins said:

    So I've been noticing that when my rpms go down to 500 the alternator seems to not be turning on. I have the smallest pulley that mechman has on its 370amp alts.  This wouldn't happen to be from one of the fuses im tapping off from, not putting out 12v to turn on the alt when the rpms are at 500? No matter if my rpms are at 500, aren't the fuses, such as ECU or cigarette lighter, suppose to still put out voltage? 

    Is the alt still getting a turn on signal at low rpm, it's just that the alt isn't outputting any charge at a low idle? 

    All alts have a "turn on" rpm.  Im a bit lost on you "tapping" a wire from anything. Even then, that shouldnt matter. The alt, has a turn on rpm.  The simple connector should have you not tapping into anything, but, i dont know your rig, build, or that alt. I would call mechman. They are awesome over there. 

  7. On 10/25/2023 at 12:24 AM, ChevyBoy95 said:

    Yea, just got busy.

     

    Two kids, got married, etc. Life happened. But ive still got the truck and the 4 15's with the 12k's. Just doesnt see much road time.

    Lulz... it happens mate, trust me lol. Good to see you around again. Your builds where always the shit. Hope you are doing well, struggles sure, but pounding through em. Stay gold mate. 

  8. On 9/10/2023 at 9:23 AM, SnowDrifter said:

    Shit

    Throw a steak in there with a couple ball bearings. Tenderizer

    I think this rig (such a rad OG audio rig) would be just fine making us all a fine fine breakfast, or din din. ...  Such a iconic rig.  Feel lucky i was able to get there and lick the windows, tho, i had a hard on for the lexus and the honda. The honda is when i even found Steve 4700 years ago lol..... Ping pong was lit also. Oh, and i did rub a few OG Fi/RE drivers, and a few OG amps he had in the back.  May, or may no have rubbed a bit of gear in a not so cool manner. .....   Hope you are doin well bud.

    • Like (+1 Rep) 1
  9. 22 hours ago, Banditnib said:

    I used a 0db 40hz tone. I didn’t check the headunit because I’m running the lc2i. I don’t think I’m dropping voltage, but I still haven’t looked. I have a lot of power so I figured it wouldn’t be a factor. The sine waves are still wavy when I set it, it doesn’t go flat when I set it. Although, these subs are pretty much brand spanking new, only been playing them for 8-9 days. I only haven’t checked yet because I’ve been busy, plan on messing with it this weekend.  I definitely need to bc they smell. It’s honestly not that bad or noticeable right now plus my amp and subs barely get that warm. It’s 80-90° where I’m at right now so I figure they’d be warm to some degree. Would you recommend using a -5 db test tone instead or 0db?

    0db eh?  0db is as clean as you can get (provided your tone is clean in the first place, -5 would be "louder/more overlap or gain")

          Then that should be clean as all get out. (for what i played, i loved -7.5, which is "louder/more "gain" ) 

      So, smell, is it a sweet, like sugar smell? Im not familiar with your drivers, tho, i know DB makes nice nice drivers. Seems like you have a scope, as you mention your waves are wavy, which, i dont really get. What you want to avoid on a scope, is a square line.  To me, if they arent hot (the drivers) , i think your smelling the coil/former glue cooking off. I know when i get my sp4s a hundred years ago, a few songs in, .. laying into it, id get this sweet/sugar smell.  Long story short, i ran those things hard (those here that know me, know) and competed with the for around 5 seasons. Never ever had a coil issue. Did loose a spider on two after 4 plus years of hammering the fuck out of them. But no thermal issue. And i was tripping day one when i powered them up. 

    If your cone is decently cool, id suspect your fine. Run em... and run em how you want to.  I think you are fine, and come back in a few weeks after beating on them. Ill bet the smell, damn near goes away. 

  10. No idea why you are setting any xover on the HU... you have a dsp. Use the dsp you paid that much money for, to cut, pass band everything. Run the HU open on everything, get in the dsp soft ware, and use the cut offs and slopes.....And turn everything on the head unit to off, and use the dsp you bought.  Why you are adjusting freq bands, on the HU when you have a decent dsp, is..... well, .... odd.   And when you are "looking for clipping" what are you playing? A song? or?  And you have the "bass" on the hu all the way down? Why are you adjusting anything on the HU, if you have a full blown dsp?

    EDIT- have you even gotten into the dsp software yet? Why are you using the HU to do the job of that money brick you bought? Lets start there first. Show a pic of the DSP software, not the head unit. (and set the hu all to flat, then, use the dsp you paid for)

     

  11. Which overlap did you use? ?????  0db, -3.5, -5, -10,-20 ???? And you checked if your clean at the HU, and then at the amplifiers? Through and through?  

    If the smell is sweet ,. it could be the glue on the coil,....

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    or, your baking your coils........  guess well see in time.  And, Joe is correct, those boards are pretty dirty to begin with.  Can you show a picture of the scope while running the tone (and at what overlap)

     

    Edit- and i dont know why dropping to 12.4 would cause any sort of clipping,.. if set up right.  Hell id set the dd1, at -7.5db over lap, with the car off. 

    But thats just me. 

  12. This case blows for air flow, ... add in temps being 3 digits for 6 weeks straight here, and, why not get a pump, cpu and gpu block,.. chuck a rad or 2 in there, and shove some water through things. 

     

    Heat killer cpu block, EK gpu block, 360mm rad, 280mm rad, BEquiet silent wing pro fans, aquasuite quadro controller/software ( i dig this thing) , EK d5 pump,res, fittings,tubing.  Just a simple gaming rig, nothing serious. 

    HyteY60 case/7800x3d/7900xtx/DDR5-6400 CL30/Asus Strix x670e-e/Seasonic 1000 prime titanium

    Samsung g7 32" 240hz/Samsung g7 27" 240hz/ROG Azoth keys

     

    First go with a loop,... and, I think ill add a loop to my other rig.  I have a flow sensor, and some other ish, ready to go in, when I get bored enough to stick it all in. Runs like a top. 

     

     

    unnamed (24).jpg

    unnamed.jpg

    • Like (+1 Rep) 1
  13. Didnt know you had a fuse up front, thought this was it. Then run the fused front line to the fuse holder you have, on the common side (the bridged side)  Run it as close as you can to the

    hot of the rear battery. One single side to the battery, and one to the amp, and your done.  If your into fusing every and all, then remember your fusing the wire. If you get it as close to the hot/positive as possible, youll be fine. Make sense? Both batts will be covered front to rear. The spit blocks will cover the rear battery, and wire forward, and the amplifier wire out.  You can also use 2 different fuse ratings for the main line, and the amplifier line, as well as using both battery amps, and your alt amps from the front. Think of it as just fusing for the wired used. 

     

    EDIT- do this.. draw it out on a piece of paper, and send a pic. ;) It helps. 

×
×
  • Create New...